Grand Teton Climb

 Features Found Along...
The Grand Teton's Approach,
The Upper Exum Climbing Route,
& The Owen-Spalding Climbing Route


The Grand Teton's Approach & The Lower Saddle

 Lupine Meadows Trailhead
(The standard trailhead)

Burned Wagon Gulch Trail
(Variation to the 1st junction of the climbers' trail)

The Meadows' Headwall
(Snow-season approach)

Corbet's High Camp
(JHMG Base Camp - off route)

Red Rock Rib
(Feature off Lower Saddle)

Dartmouth Basin
(Feature off Lower Saddle)
The Black Dike


~ The Grand Teton's Central Rib ~ 
Variations between the Lower & Upper Saddles

Central Rib & Bench
(Most common variation)

Lower Western Rib
(Uncommon variation)

Chockstone Chimney
(Leads to the Eye of the Needle)

Eye of the Needle
(Common variation to access CR's Bench

Belly Roll Almost
(Feature after exiting the Eye of the Needle)
Mini Black Dike
(Feature along path to Briggs' Slab)

(Uncommon variation to access CR's Bench)
Cracks of  Doom
(Uncommon variation to access CR's Bench)

Briggs' Slab
(Common variation to access CR's Bench
Lower Crossover to Wall Street
(Common variation to reach UXM's Wall Street)

Upper Crossover to Wall Street
(Less common variation to reach UXM's Wall Street)
 Dartmouth Couloir
(Usually avoided - off route)

 Upper Western Rib
(Variation to reach Upper Saddle)

Black Rock Chimney
(Variation to reach Upper Saddle)

The Enclosure
(Western spur off Upper Saddle - off route)


~ The Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding Climbing Route ~ 
Variations above the Upper Saddle

 Double Chimney Bypass
(More difficult variation)

The Catwalk
(Variation - easier than Owen Chimney when dry)

 Owen-Chimney Bypass Crack
(Variation - sometimes easier, sometimes not)

Sargent's Hidden Exit
(Most common ascent variation)

Three Stooges
(A feature you pass by while on the OS)

Slabby Wall
(Climb or bypass)

(A feature you pass under while on the OS)

Summit - yay!

(Rap or downclimb OS)


~ The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Climbing Route ~ 
Variations above the Wall Street Couloir

Golden Stair Bypass Cracks
(Slightly harder variation)

(Variation - detour)

Western Chimney
(Variation to bypass or reach the Friction Pitch. Rating varies with exit) 

Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney
(Variation to bypass the Friction Pitch & Jern - 5.4ish)
(Variation to bypass Friction Pitch & Jern - 5.6ish)
Jern Dihedral
(Most common line to Friction Pitch)

Notch Gully
(Scramble up gully or climb up ridgeline)

V-Pitch & Bypass
(V-Pitch is on route, Crack bypass is easier when dry)

West-Leaning Chimney
(Petzoldt's Lieback, etc) 

Boulder Problem in the Sky
(Climb or bypass below it)

The Horse
(Usually bypassed but can climb - start on SW corner)

Summit - yay!

Slabby Wall
(Downclimb or bypass)

Sargent's Chimney
(Downclimb, rappel, or use Hidden Exit)

Sargent's Hidden Exit
(Downclimb or bypass)

Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle
(Downclimb OS or rappel)

 Upper Western Rib
(Variation to reach Central Rib's Bench

  (Variation to reach Central Rib's Bench)

Briggs' Slab or Eye of the Needle
 (Back where you began)


A Few Grand Teton Trip Reports 
April Through October



July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation


WW - Upper Exum

WW - Owen-Spalding

Most of our older photos are no longer available.
All images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit purposes.

It will take some time before we collect all of the appropriate images and then edit all of these linked pages with notes; nonetheless, the current pages will give you a good feel for what you're up against. There may be some duplicate images. 


Want to practice your climbing skills? Head for the Practice Rocks by Hidden Falls. You'll find a 120' rappel and well-bolted climbing routes. Note: Check with the Rangers to make sure the area is open. In 2018, the Practice Rocks were closed after a major fissure developed in the rock face.

Anyone can use the Practice Rocks but Exum Mountain Guides usually keeps the place pretty busy.


Enjoy Safe Climbing