A Climber's Guide to the Grand Teton's Easiest Routes



 ~ Route Overviews ~
 
 
 
Upper Exum
 
 
Owen-Spalding
 
 
Approach & Info
 
 
 
~ Grand Teton Trip Reports ~


 

Grand Targhee Summit Cam
Pans the Grand Teton's Western Aspect

(*may be offline or showing an old image)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Summer 2026 Notes




On July 6th, the rangers posted a trip report for the UXM and OS. They said: "Although the upcoming forecast should continue to dry things out toward the weekend, it is still a good idea to include an ice axe and potentially crampons in your kit if you’re heading up the Grand Teton this week."
 
Record high temperatures are in the weekend forecast. 

TCSAR released their 2026 Midyear Rescue Report on July 1. It's the Harry Winston of Rescue Reports.

The Rendezvous Mountain Hill Climb happens on Aug 1st.
 
All backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station until it closes for the season on Labor Day, Sept 7, 2026. It's staffed by the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers.


 
 
———————————————————
 
 
  ~ Weather ~
 

** Lower Saddle Forecast 11,600ft **

** Saddle's Hourly Forecast 11,600ft **
 
 
The Lower Saddle's wind speeds are often much higher than the forecasted speeds, sometimes off by a factor of 2 or more. Additionally, a mountain forecast is difficult to nail down with certainty and it can go stale quickly. Afternoon thunderstorms are common and may not appear in a forecast. Read the Wyoming Forecast Discussion from the NWS for possible insights into uncertainties in the forecast. And read the weather as you travel.  
 
As with 2025, the data from the Lower Saddle Weather Station has not been shared with the public in 2026. Without that data, it is difficult to compare actual data with the Saddle's forecast data to get a feel for typical errors, and it's more difficult to analyze developing threats in real time. It's also harder to estimate if fresh ice has formed on the upper mountain overnight, or if it's melting away.

 
Current weather at Cody Bowl - JHMR


After 29 years, MesoWest is closing shop this year. They provide our custom weather station graphics, and we have many links to their site. We'll update everything at some time in the future as MesoWest discontinues their services.
 
JH Mountain Resort Weather @ 10,400' 
 Elev Δ between this station and Grand Teton = 3375 ft
 

Check here for Latest Animation
Check here for Latest Image
Pacific Coast to WY
Zulu Time  =  UTC time

 
Northern Rockies Radar
Radar from Riverton, WY does a poor job of covering the Tetons. The Pocatello, ID radar is usually better suited to tracking weather headed for the Tetons. Inside Jackson Hole, the mountains can hide localized weather events.


30-day Mt Glory Temps
@ 10,059 ft 
(17.5 mi S-SW of the Grand Teton)

Mt Glory Wind Speeds
@ 10,059 ft  


The Grand Teton probably got precipitation if the next two weather stations show precipitation on the same day.





Precipitation @ 6466 ft
(7.2 miles SE of Grand Teton)
More Details
 
Precipitation  @ 6430 ft
(11.5 miles west of Grand)
Precip during the last 31 days
 
Precipitation data isn't always available for the Driggs, ID and Jackson, WY airport weather stations. If it's available, precipitation at those two stations also indicates that the Grand probably got precipitation during the summer. Summer showers can be highly localized. This NWS portal for the JH Airport often has precip data on a drop-down menu when MesoWest doesn't. The Idaho & Wyoming DOT travel maps show webcams along with road & weather conditions. If the roads are wet on both sides of the Tetons, then the Grand probably got precipitation.
 
FYI: In years past, the National Weather Service has called into question the accuracy of the airport's weather data.
 
 
  ~ Streaming Teton Range Webcams ~ 

 
 

Dornan's Webcam inside GTNP at Moose



Buffalo Valley - Moran
 ~ Jenny Lake  Climbing Rangers ~

   
~ Backcountry Conditions ~
 
  
Follow the Rangers on Instagram


_____________________


Ranger Station Location

Ranger Station

307-739-3343
(Summer)

307–739–3399 General Info
 
 

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is where you'll find the park's climbing rangers. The station opens in early June and closes in early September. It's operating hours are from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM every day. We suggest calling to confirm operating dates and hours for any GTNP service. Dates and hours are subject to change and sometimes the park has incorrect information on their website.
 
The Jenny Lake Ranger Station can be an invaluable resource for information about mountaineering routes, conditions and backcountry hikes. The rangers don't always have the newest beta on conditions. Their Instagram channel might get feedback from climbers who have more recent beta. You could also try Mountain Project's Forums, or other social media accounts with a hashtag search. You can check the current snow cover via Copernicus if you're climbing during the shoulder seasons. 

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is the only place for climbers to get backcountry camping permits during the summer. The rangers also provide search & rescue operations for the park. Most are law enforcement officers.
 
The climbing rangers are supported by many generous donations from our community and outside of it. You can make donations through GTNP or through the non-profit Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
 
Besides GTNP's climbing rangers, the Teton County Search & Rescue volunteers and Yellowstone's SAR team operate in Teton County, WY. And there's the Teton County Idaho Search & Rescue team on the western side of the Tetons. Beginning in 2024, the JLCR started using the TCSAR helicopter and integrating personnel on some missions. Jackson's TCSAR gets millions of dollars in donations from the community. As with the JLCR, TCSAR does not charge for rescue services. Donations can be made online to the TCSAR Foundation. The State of Wyoming does reimburse Wyoming's SAR teams for some rescue costs through the WY SAR Council.

Teton County SAR and their partners (NPS rangers, BTAC, BackcountryZero, etc) often host events for backcountry users. You may find them useful. TCSAR on Instagram
 


~ Backcountry Camping ~
Grand Teton National Park


Backcountry Camping Permits
(Reservations & Info and has ALL ZONES)
 
(GTNP's General Information)
 
Backcountry Permits
(GTNP's General Information)

 (No Garnet Canyon Zones in 2026)

Safety in Bear Country
(No direct links from GTNP website, but still around)
 
(Old Ranger blog post)

BC Trip Planner & Map
(Old GTNP pdf- no Garnet Canyon camping) 
 
 (npsmaps.com)

 
 
One-third of all summer backcountry campsites and all group sites in Grand Teton National Park may be reserved in advance, online, beginning in early January. Certain bivi sites located outside of camping zones are also available for reservation.
 
First-come, first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer. Requests for those walk-in permits is often high. Permits can be issued one day before your trip begins and no sooner. You must arrive in person. Sometimes walk-in permits are not available for your destination. It might be that parties on multi-day trips snapped them up over the previous days, or camping zones have reached their occupancy limit. It helps if you're first in line the day before your trip begins. You can try making a reservation two days before your trip at Recreation.gov. Sometimes reservations are cancelled or no-shows.
 
Once the Jenny Lake Ranger Station opens in June, all permits for backcountry camping for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. This includes walk-in permits and those previously reserved online. Once the station closes in September, permits can be picked up at select visitor centers until they close for the winter.
 
Winter backcountry camping permits are usually free and available over the phone. The park's visitor centers are closed over the winter. By May 1, (and sometimes in April), all backcountry camping permits can be picked up at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center until the Jenny Lake Ranger Station reopens for the summer in early June.
 
Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit to camp or bivouac; however, permits are not required for climbing. We suspect that climbing permits have been a target of discussion.
 

 
~ GTNP Emergency Dispatch ~


307-739-3301*
 

~ * 24/7 June 1 - Sept. 31 ~
~ * 6 a.m. - 10 p.m. Oct 1 - May 31 ~
* Please Confirm Hours/Dates
 
GTNP Emergency Procedures
For Climbers


911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID 



 

~ Regional NWS Offices ~

(307) 857-3898
1-800-211-1448
nws.riverton@noaa.gov
12744 West U.S. Hwy 26
Riverton, WY 82501

 
NWS Office in Pocatello, ID
1945 Beechcraft Ave
Pocatello, ID 83204
208-233-0834
YouTube
 
NWS Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NWS Grant Village Yellowstone: 162.450
NWS Driggs, ID: 162.450


- UofA -

 
 
~ Night Sky ~
 

The darkest sky is N-NE of Jackson Lake
 
  
 
 
GTNP Lost and Found 307.733.3350
 


~ Why Free-Solo ~ 
 

For those who can safely solo this mountain on a fast and light trip, it brings many advantages. It's faster. You can climb on any day that fits your schedule instead of someone else's. It's easier to make a round-trip in single day if you're soloing. You can go at your own pace. You can leave later in the day. You can travel further when you're carrying less weight. You'll feel stronger while climbing. You might recover more quickly. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit, gear and guide. Older, injured or physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or travel on time-lengthy trips. Stronger climbers may not have the time for multi-day climbing activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is often a safety advantage when the weather window is short, or a quick escape is necessary. It's unlikely that free-soloing climbers are delaying other climbers in a significant way and that helps keep all climbers moving in a timely manner. It's easier to pass other climbers when you're soloing so that you're not delayed. You might have a smaller environmental impact in the backcountry if you're just out for the day. You can enjoy some solitude. There's a freedom that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers. And it's a far more enjoyable experience for many.
 
To quote Anton Krupicka: "It’s about, of course, having fun, covering a wide variety of ground efficiently, emphasizing the movement and the activity."

Free-soloing has its inherent, objective dangers as does any activity but it's relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather and poor conditions. For a time, back in the old days, solo climbing was illegal in the park but the rule was often broken by climbers like John Gill who was soloing 5.10s in the Tetons. Many climbers, guides and rangers soloed routes in the early days of Teton climbing. Today is no different.

The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes and don't mind spending some money might be buying or renting a pair of climbing shoes. They will boost your confidence & safety on the rock. You don't need super sticky big wall climbing shoes for the Owen-Spalding or Upper Exum routes. Most approach shoes made for climbing work fine as do several trail running and mountain biking shoes. The wrong shoes will ruin a trip so if your clunky work boots keep your feet happy on 15-mile mountain hikes, you might prefer those over something else. Preferably boots with non-slip soles. Most Vibram soles work well. There are others. Choose wisely given the objective, your skill set and preferences. Climbing-specific approach shoes usually edge better than runners. Of course, wearing a helmet doesn't hurt.
 
 
~ Miscellaneous ~

  
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is always being written on the web but it often disappears if left unattended.

 
Jimmy Chin
Googler: Noah Howell or Website
(^website in poor shape)
George Gardner Scholarship Fund
George Bell
Alpinist Teton Women
Taylor Glenn


Miscellaneous Links



Bridger-Teton Avalanche Forecast
BTAC App
Avalanche Weather Guidance
NWS AVI & Snow Guide
NWS Probabilistic Snow Ice
BTAC Snowfall Data 24 hrs

USDA Snow & Water Map
 NRCS Snow Depth for WY
Grand Targhee Snowfall (stn)
JHMR Snowfall (stn)
Surprise Meadow Snowfall (stn)
 
JHMR Weather & Snow Report
JHMR Grooming Map
Snow King Snow Report
Targhee Snow Report
JH Nordic Conditions
JH P&R XC Grooming Report
WYDOT Road Conditions

Turiano's Skiing Guides


Exum Mountain Guides
JH Mountain Guides
Teton Backcountry Guides

Mountain Riding Lab
World Championship Hill Climb
Snowmobile Maps - Trails

BTNF Winter Travel Maps
Winter  Maps Trails & XC Ski
Winter Wildlife Closures
Friends of BTNF Winter Links

American Avalanche Institute
JH Outdoor Leadership Inst
Teton Backcountry Alliance
(Teton Pass Free Shuttle)
WBM - Medical Training
BackcountryZero

Avalanche.org
Avi Paths on Teton Pass
WY State Trails Avi Paths
Cache and Granite Avi Paths

Idaho Alpine Club   Climbing Idaho
Teton Climbers’ Coalition
Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance
Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition
Tensleep Climbing
Cody's Wyoming Ice Festival
Lander's Intl Climbers' Festival
Southeast Wyoming Climbers Coalition


 Teton Pass Webcams
Teton Pass Temps
Climbers' Ranch Webcam

JH Paragliding
JH Free Flight Club
JH Kayak Club
JH Polo Club
JH Rugby Jedediah Smith Wilderness
 

Build Graph
Did You Feel It? Report It


~ Water Resources ~


Water Temps


FYI: The above graphic has been using Pacific Time, not Mountain Time for the "latest" temp reading. Time.gov

Water temps at Jenny Lake might be available by calling the Jenny Lake Boating team. They have a water thermometer by the boat dock (webcam). Summer only. Climbers engaged in The Picnic (AKA the Grand Teton Triathlon) like to track water temps for their swim across Jenny Lake. A few climbers like to take a refreshing dip after their climb. A dirt road splits off of the Lupine Meadows Road immediately after passing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. It goes north to the Jenny Lake Boat Launch area. You can take a quick dip to cool off or clean up but it's not for swimming. 


Upper Snake River Basin
If Jackson Lake is really low, the western banks of the lake can be used to access some of the trailless bushwhacking areas north of Mt Moran. Bring bear spray and a mountain man sensibility.


~River Webcams~
 


 


 

Enjoy Safe Climbing

 

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