Friction Pitch

The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Route

REMEMBER, you can use the Friction Pitch Bypass if it's free of snow and ice. If you don't like friction areas, or you are unsure of your abilities, or you just want to avoid the crowds, consider the bypass. The Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral is slightly harder but it's a fun line to climb. Most climbers use the Jern Dihedral to reach the Friction Pitch.

A look at a climber slipping on the Friction Pitch.

This video mentions an old piton at the top of the crux. It may be an old nut, etc.

Climber above the crux

Climbers at base of Friction Pitch

Looking down the crux of the Friction Pitch

Climber on Knob Line

Climber on Knob Line

Climber went left (west) off the Knob Line

Climber just above the crux

Jern Dihedral at far left. Three climbers on Friction Pitch above JD. PNG Dihedral to right of FP

On FP, above crux

Going right off Knob Line - toward eastern crest

We prefer going in the other direction but to each his own. The insignificant holds and friction depressions seem slightly better on the western side to us; however, with super sticky shoes you may not notice much difference. We rarely climb with super sticky shoes.

Just getting started at the base of the Friction Pitch

On the Knobs

Going west

Above the crux - still exercise great care

Looking down the FP

Crux is between climber and small ledge in middle of image

Vaginal line

This is a friction zone

With sticky shoes and a careful eye, we think it is the easiest line for us. It can also easily get you into trouble if you choose the wrong line or "hold". If you're on a secure rope, it really doesn't matter what line you choose.

 Climber exiting the Western Chimney at the base of the Friction Pitch

Friction Pitch Rescue Operation

Enjoy Safe Climbing