Friction Pitch

The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Route











Most people take the Jern to reach the Friction Pitch. There are many fun variations.




Climber above the crux

Climbers at base of Friction Pitch

Looking down the crux of the Friction Pitch

Climber on Knob Line





Climber on Knob Line

Climber went left (west) off the Knob Line

Climber just above the crux

Jern Dihedral at far left. PNG Dihedral to right of FP

Two climbers at the base of the FP and one on the FP above the crux.


Climber on the Knob Line


On FP, above crux

Going right off Knob Line - toward eastern crest

We prefer going in the other direction but to each his own. The insignificant holds and friction depressions seem slightly better on the western side to us; however, with super sticky shoes you may not notice much difference. We rarely climb with super sticky shoes.



Making the move to the east off the Knob


Just getting started at the base of the Friction Pitch

On the Knobs

Going west



Above the crux - still exercise great care


Variations to the west of the Vag & Knob Lines


Climbers at base of FP


Looking down the FP

Crux is between climber and small ledge in middle of image







She moves from the Knob Line toward the Vag Line




Vag line

This is a friction zone






































 Climber exiting the Western Chimney at the base of the Friction Pitch






































Friction Pitch Rescue Operation



Enjoy Safe Climbing