Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney

A Variation On The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Route

The Jern to the Friction Pitch is the common route.

The PNG Dihedral has a published rating between 5.6 and 5.7 at two very short cruxes.

With sticky climbing shoes, it's a pretty easy corner and a nice FP bypass. The Western Chimney's rating varies with the exit location. If you exit at the base of the Friction Pitch (at an 'obvious' opening - look for old cam), I'd give it a 5.4 to 5.5 rating depending upon the type of shoes you have. The FP Bypass Chimney is a 5.4 variation but only if you take the easiest line at the top. As with most variations, you can up the grade by picking a harder line.

The Bypass Chimney is not as easy as it looks. It certainly starts out very easy but it will throw you a loop near the top. If you run into problems, just back off and try another line.


Enjoy Safe Climbing