A Variation On The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Route
A few trip reports for April through October
July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation
Detailed Look At Specific Route Features
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The Jern to the Friction Pitch is the common route.
The PNG Dihedral has a published rating between 5.6 and 5.7 at two very short cruxes.
With sticky climbing shoes, the PNG is a pretty easy corner and a nice FP bypass. The Western Chimney's rating varies with the exit location. If you exit at the base of the Friction Pitch (at an 'obvious' opening - look for old cam), we would give it a 5.4 rating if you have proper shoes. The FP Bypass Chimney is a 5.4 variation but only if you take the easiest line at the top. As with most variations, you can up the grade by picking a harder line.
Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney
The Friction Pitch Bypass Chimney is not as easy as it looks. It certainly starts out very easy but it will throw you a loop near the top. If you run into problems, just back off and try another line. You can exit to the right or left at the top when conditions permit. We have sent large rocks down this chimney. Watch your footing and handholds. BTW: The rocks will fall into the Ford Couloir and not into the Wind Tunnel.
Enjoy Safe Climbing