The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Route
A few trip reports for April through October
July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation
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Go ahead, leap!
“When you get to the eastern extremity of Wall Street, why there isn’t any place to jump from! So I climbed as high as I could, until I was sort of secure, and jumped from a standing start!” Glenn Exum
Approaching the Step Across as Wall Street narrows.
Wall Street narrows to a slim strip of rock
The Upper Ledge of Wall Street's Step Across is simply the narrow extension of Wall Street
After turning the corner on Lower Ledge
The Lower Ledge is just below the Upper Ledge. It's probably safer when the wind is blowing or if the area is icy. The ledge disappears as you round the corner. There are small depressions for your foot and one nice foothold on the eastern aspect of the wall. The handholds are finger holds. You can dip down into the U-shaped corner from the lower ledge and work your way into the inside corner - or step across the gap.
Upper Ledge
There are no bomber hand holds on the upper ledge at the end of Wall Street. There are some finger holds to utilize. Some climbers will bend over and pull up on the bottom of the rock that hangs just above your foothold. Some will stand upright and trust their footholds and work their way around the corner without the security of a good handhold. Both options work but the upper ledge is an awkward place to be no matter how you attack it. We feel that the lower ledge is safer and has more options for safe passage especially if the wind is blowing or if it's icy. The lower ledge doesn't have big footholds as you round the corner but small footholds are available. Again, a frictiony depression is available as you leave the lower ledge as is a solid foothold closer to the inside corner.
Lower Ledge as you round the corner
Upper & Lower Ledge. The small foothold is a couple inches in length and narrow.
View from the Step Across' Upper Ledge
View down the Step Across' gap at the end of Wall Street
View from the Step Across' Upper Ledge
View down the Step Across' gap at the end of Wall Street
The Step Across.
We have never seen a climber step across this gap.
We have never seen a climber step across this gap.
The gap
Climbers just work their way around the corner instead of stepping across it. Why Glenn Exum felt the need to jump across the gap remains a mystery to us. You can actually step across the gap as you get closer to the inside corner, from the lower ledge.
Notice how narrow the Upper Ledge is - along the center-right side of image
Climbers waiting their turn
Looking down from the gap's Lower Ledge
The gap's fall line
View of some of your holds on the Lower Ledge
A view of your holds on the Lower Ledge
Lower Ledge
It starts out as a nice ledge and then it disappears as you round the corner.
It starts out as a nice ledge and then it disappears as you round the corner.
Photographer on Upper Ledge
Climber on Lower Ledge holding onto Upper Ledge
Leaving the Step Across drops you right below the Golden Stair
View from the Upper Ledge
View from Upper Ledge
Climber on Lower Ledge
Climber exiting the Lower Exum Ridge by the Step Across
Woman coming off the Lower Exum Ridge at the eastern side of the Step Across.
Some climbers will come right up the gap.
Lower Ledge - south side
Upper ledge
Lower Ledge holds - SE side
Upper Ledge
Climber on Upper Ledge
Upper Ledge
Climber on Lower Ledge
Climber on Upper Ledge
Ditto
Lower Ledge
Climber on Lower Ledge
Climber on Upper Ledge
Climber on Lower Ledge
Climber on Upper Ledge
Lower Ledge - south side
Lower Ledge seen from Upper Ledge
Enjoy Safe Climbing