Wyoming Whiskey Trip Reports
~ A few trip reports ~
April through October
April through October
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Travel Maps
Google has the distance from the Town of Jackson to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead at 21 miles. CalTopo has a nice topo map of trails inside Garnet Canyon.
(Trailhead and Grand Teton)
Click to Enlarge
The Lupine Meadows trailhead is just south of Jenny Lake. The trail into Garnet Canyon is well maintained for 4.1 miles. Beyond there, the trail only sees occasional maintenance to Spalding Falls. Above the Falls, it's mostly an unmaintained trail. There is some scrambling through boulders and the trail has various spurs that may confuse less prepared hikers. It's usually easy to follow others to the Lower Saddle during the summer if you don't know the route. Some get lost.
USGS TopoView
Miles of paved roads: 152
Miles of unpaved roads: 65
Miles of trails: 242
~ Some GTNP Facts ~
Miles of paved roads: 152
Miles of unpaved roads: 65
Miles of trails: 242
The Grand Teton rises about 7035 ft above the valley floor.
The typical summer approach starts at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. During the winter season, climbers and skiers start at the Taggart Lake Trailhead and most use backcountry skis to access Garnet Canyon. There are other ways to get into Garnet Canyon but those two are the most common.
Water
Water availability along trail & by camping sites
Water @ Jenny Lake Store
S. Jenny lake Area
It's about 2.5 miles by car from the trailhead to the store, and 1 mile between the roadway junctions. There is a shortcut trail by the Exum office if you're on foot. You can access water from the creeks flowing through Lupine Meadows but they probably need filtering or chemical treatment.
You can find potable water at the South Jenny Lake Store. The free water filling station is available 24/7 during the
summer. We usually avoid the entire area
and don't keep track of that water station's functionality but the
park has made an effort to place water stations in the park to reduce
water bottle usage so we imagine it's always maintained. There are several
free-standing water fountains in the area. The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is also near the store.
It's about 2.5 miles by car from the trailhead to the store, and 1 mile between the roadway junctions. There is a shortcut trail by the Exum office if you're on foot. You can access water from the creeks flowing through Lupine Meadows but they probably need filtering or chemical treatment.
Dehydration can cause health and performance issues. And, too much water
can throw your electrolytes off balance. Plan with all that in mind. NPR had a nice story on the body's water balance.
Garnet Canyon Camping
You have two options for acquiring backcountry camping permits:
1) First-come, first-served walk-in permits
1) First-come, first-served walk-in permits
2) Online reservations
Depending on the time of year, you might receive the actual permit over the phone, from a visitor center, or at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
During the summer when the Jenny Lake Ranger Station is open, all backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up in person at the station. Walk-in permits can be picked one day before your trip begins. It used to be that reservations for the summer season could only be made during the first 5 months of the year, usually January through mid-May. As of 2024, it appears that they will allow reservations up to two days ahead if backcountry camping spots are available (most likely from cancelled reservations but unknown). This should be verified ahead of time to make sure the policy is actually in place starting in 2024.
Camping zones are not always free of snow early in the season. The camping zones above the Meadows' Camping Zone can burn off at a faster rate than the Meadows. In 2018, the Meadows was covered in snow all summer long due to a large avalanche. It was nice and green on July 4th, 2016. Varies every year.
The park also has campgrounds (1,206 sites) and lodging (803 room units), and bunk cabins at the American Alpine Club's Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch. And many camping locations are available in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. The Forest Service camping options are very popular and their camping spots are often in limited supply. Many websites and apps cover all the valley's camping options. We have our own webpage for campers but it isn't updated on a regular basis.
Depending on the time of year, you might receive the actual permit over the phone, from a visitor center, or at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.
During the summer when the Jenny Lake Ranger Station is open, all backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up in person at the station. Walk-in permits can be picked one day before your trip begins. It used to be that reservations for the summer season could only be made during the first 5 months of the year, usually January through mid-May. As of 2024, it appears that they will allow reservations up to two days ahead if backcountry camping spots are available (most likely from cancelled reservations but unknown). This should be verified ahead of time to make sure the policy is actually in place starting in 2024.
Camping zones are not always free of snow early in the season. The camping zones above the Meadows' Camping Zone can burn off at a faster rate than the Meadows. In 2018, the Meadows was covered in snow all summer long due to a large avalanche. It was nice and green on July 4th, 2016. Varies every year.
The park also has campgrounds (1,206 sites) and lodging (803 room units), and bunk cabins at the American Alpine Club's Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch. And many camping locations are available in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. The Forest Service camping options are very popular and their camping spots are often in limited supply. Many websites and apps cover all the valley's camping options. We have our own webpage for campers but it isn't updated on a regular basis.
~ Published Distances ~
4.1 miles Platforms Camping Zone at Garnet Creek
4.7 miles Meadows Camping Zone
5.5 miles Petzoldt's Caves Camping Zone
6.2 miles Morainal Camping Zone
7.0 miles Lower Saddle
Lower Saddle to Summit via O-S Rte is over 3,000' (≈2,175' elevation Δ)
We have no idea if the above distances are correct. Most GPS tracks have the Lower Saddle pegged at under 7 miles (closer to 6.3 or so). Individual distances which are calculated using a phone's GPS (or watch) are posted online; however, those won't accurately map the exact distance. They miss many small twists in the trail which can add up in a big way over many miles. Expect them to show shorter distances. The latest edition of A Climbers' Guide to the Teton Range has the distance to the Lower Saddle at 7.5 miles. There are shortcuts but the legal ones don't save too much time.
A Snowy Garnet Canyon
Click to Enlarge
(shows total distance near 6.3 miles)
You can examine old GPS tracks from GAIA GPS. Teton tracks used to be on Suunto's MovesCount.com website before the website was discontinued. Try their app. Mountain Project has its map. And Strava, AllTrails, Trailforks, CalTopo, OpenStreetMap, etc. Many maps look better on a computer than a phone but the latest apps have great interfaces to help plan your day, keep you on route and track your performance.
The USGS Grand Teton topo maps (7.5 min, etc) from 1899 to 2021, are available for a free download in many formats including GeoPDF and GeoTiff for tracking your location in real time from a smartphone app like Avenza while offline.
Do you need a GPS track to find your way? Not really. Just interesting to check out. This hiker was walking just under 4 miles per hour when they started. It looks like they petered out on the switchbacks above the meadows in Garnet Canyon.
~ Hiking Times ~
The following times are approximate for free-soloing climbers who are moving fast (speed walking) & packing next to nothing (or very light) under good conditions....
Lupine Meadows to 1st Junction: 30 minutes.
1st Junction to 2nd Junction: 30 minutes. 60 minutes total.
2nd Junction to the Meadows Camping Zone: 30 minutes. 1.5 hours total.
Meadows to Lower Saddle: 60 minutes. 2.5 hours total.
1st Junction to 2nd Junction: 30 minutes. 60 minutes total.
2nd Junction to the Meadows Camping Zone: 30 minutes. 1.5 hours total.
Meadows to Lower Saddle: 60 minutes. 2.5 hours total.
These are estimated times for those who do indeed move fast while walking and not times for everyone who thinks they can move fast while walking. The average hiker might take 5 hours to get to the Lower Saddle. Typical times for climbers traveling fast and light above the Lower Saddle are not included because that area has a mix of terrain. It involves route finding and climbing skills unlike a hiking trail.
Trekking poles might speed up the ascents. Just depends. Kilian Jornet used poles when attempting the Fastest Known Vertical Kilometer (3281 feet elevation gain—about two Snow Kings high). He took just under 29 minutes or about 14 minutes per Snow King. By comparison, his Grand Teton ascent time (without poles) from the trailhead took about 1 hour 51 minutes to rise 2147 meters but it included a long approach.
~ Preparation ~
Make
sure you have the appropriate supplies if you're unsure about the
amount of time it will take you to climb the Grand Teton or hike to the Lower Saddle. Food & water. Sunscreen. Fully charged phone. Tissue paper and WAG
bags. Proper clothing. Gloves. A headlamp with new batteries. Appropriate, comfortable shoes. Route map. Hiking
poles. Backpack. Hand warmers. Whatever. Having said all that, overpacking is what
free-soloing climbers try to avoid if they're climbing the Grand. Excess weight, no matter how light,
slows you down and causes prolonged unnecessary suffering. Only take what you truly need for the day ahead.
The trailhead does trap cold air overnight. You may be pulling off layers before you get a quarter-mile up the trail. It can be hard to gauge the proper amount of clothing to take unless you do this often. Clothing selection depends upon the forecast, time of year, how fast you plan to go, what route you're climbing, etc. It's also easy to underdress. The wind can be nasty at the Lower Saddle. And the shady Owen-Spalding route can be painfully cold in the early morning with summer temperatures in the 30s or 40s, before calculating wind chill. Perhaps 20s with a cold front.
Some run up the Grand Teton with next to nothing. Shoes and shorts. Like these guys. Unlike protected climbers, most free-soloing climbers are always moving and not exposed to cold weather for extended periods. Because they're moving quickly they also can start later and enjoy warmer weather.
~ Weather ~
Check a forecast for the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle before leaving the trailhead. A definitive mountain forecast can very be hard to pin down if modest instability is in the atmosphere. In our experience, a Teton forecast during the summer is good for about 6 hours. A multi-day forecast should never be trusted.
Terrain-driven cumulus clouds are common and they can develop into afternoon thunderstorms that weren't in a forecast. It helps to be able to read the weather but calling the shots correctly on what weather threats will actually materalize can be difficult in the Tetons. If you're responsible for the safety of others, make conservative choices. Failure to do this has caused many weather-related injuries and death.
Terrain-driven cumulus clouds are common and they can develop into afternoon thunderstorms that weren't in a forecast. It helps to be able to read the weather but calling the shots correctly on what weather threats will actually materalize can be difficult in the Tetons. If you're responsible for the safety of others, make conservative choices. Failure to do this has caused many weather-related injuries and death.
You can check a forecast on your phone from the Lower Saddle and on the summit. Cellular service has
been spotty at the trailhead and inside Garnet Canyon but new towers have been installed in the park. They may enhance service. The weather radio channel for the Tetons is 162.525.
If the forecast, or forecast discussion, mentions monsoon moisture or a cold front, you should think carefully about taking a trip up the Grand. That's a big red flag.
Modest temperature inversions at the 11,600 ft Lower Saddle are common overnight during the summer. The saddle may actually be warmer than the trailhead if the wind is calm. Winter inversions can be more extreme, sometimes producing a 40° difference during the day.
If the forecast, or forecast discussion, mentions monsoon moisture or a cold front, you should think carefully about taking a trip up the Grand. That's a big red flag.
Modest temperature inversions at the 11,600 ft Lower Saddle are common overnight during the summer. The saddle may actually be warmer than the trailhead if the wind is calm. Winter inversions can be more extreme, sometimes producing a 40° difference during the day.
* Saddle's 7-Day Forecast *
Jackson Forecast 48-hrs
Jackson KJAC Dashboard
BTAC Map of Valley Weather Stations
Synoptic's Weather Station Map
Mesowest Weather Station Map
Lower Saddle's Weather Station
Grand Teton Webcams
Current Conditions
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers occasionally provide reports on conditions through their Teton climbing blog. More current information on conditions might be available
through various social media platforms. Of course, information from any source can be misleading, totally incorrect, or outdated. Nasty conditions can improve in an hour, or they can stick around for days, weeks.
Summer conditions & information: 307-739-3343
Winter/Off-Season conditions & information: 307-739-3309
Grand Teton Webcams
According to the American Alpine Club, 85 percent of the Grand Teton accidents took place during the summer, and the single most frequent contributing factor was a fall on snow. Mostly during descents in three areas: the Meadows headwall, the Lower Saddle headwall, and the area between the Lower Saddle and Upper Saddle.
~ Overnight Parking ~
Camping is not allowed at the
trailhead. This is enforced. It is not unusual for folks to drive up
from, say, Salt Lake City after work on a Friday and take a nap before heading out but they should consider doing that outside the park boundary. It might not be safe to drive without some rest if you're getting back to the trailhead at 1 a.m. after a climb. Just depends. Take a short nap if you need it. Most rangers aren't out to ticket people trying to do the right thing. Driving while mentally and physically exhausted is dangerous to you and others. And dangerous to wildlife which is all over the place.
You can find various park proclamations about parking and backcountry use during the evening such as: "Overnight parking at trailheads is only permitted with a backcountry permit" and "You must obtain a permit when staying overnight in the backcountry." The definition of "overnight" in regards to use of park resources usually refers to an entire night and not a subset of the evening. And "overnight stays" in the backcountry usually refers to camping like an overnight stay at a hotel.
You can find various park proclamations about parking and backcountry use during the evening such as: "Overnight parking at trailheads is only permitted with a backcountry permit" and "You must obtain a permit when staying overnight in the backcountry." The definition of "overnight" in regards to use of park resources usually refers to an entire night and not a subset of the evening. And "overnight stays" in the backcountry usually refers to camping like an overnight stay at a hotel.
The park also says that "Permits are not required for day climbs" which seems to imply that night climbs might require a permit; except, the park also says that "a permit is not required for climbing in Grand Teton National Park".
For the record, people are parking at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead
at all hours of the day and night to go climbing. A very large
percentage of climbers are on single-day, round-trip climbs in the Tetons. This is
one of the most common backcountry
activities in the park and has been for decades. And starting early is
the responsible thing to do if you're on a single-day, round-trip climb
especially when the afternoon weather is questionable. Parties taking protection often leave Lupine Meadows between midnight and 2 a.m. Some before, some after. Everyone has a different pace. The climbing guides often start their group trips from the Lower Saddle at 4 am. Sometimes earlier. Soloing climbers tend to leave near daybreak but their departure times can vary with work schedules, current conditions, weather, personal preferences, etc.
~ Lupine Meadows Trailhead ~
The Lupine Meadows Trailhead is named the after the purple colored Silver Lupine flowers which are a common sight in the adjacent meadows. It's the most popular trailhead for climbers heading for the Grand. And a popular trailhead to Delta Lake, etc. The trail up Teewinot starts from the parking area along a different trail. Besides climbers and hikers, you'll probably share the meadows with elk and antelope in the morning. Maybe a moose or fox. Deer and black bears are a common sight on the trail. By the way, there are no venomous snakes native to Teton County that should concern you. The garter snake is probably the only snake you'll ever see in Teton County.
There have been car break-ins inside the park. But, it's not like this is Los Angeles. As with any trailhead, you should lock up and hide valuables. Expensive bikes seem to attract the criminal mind in Jackson Hole. Climbing gear not so much.
The typical winter approach from the Taggart Lake
Trailhead is discussed near the very bottom of this webpage. The rarely used Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead is discussed shortly.
The vast majority of hikers reach the Lower Saddle without getting lost during daylight hours. However, a few people do indeed get way off track as two famous mountain runners
once did on their first visit. Traveling under darkness will be more challenging if you don't know the area. Most do OK. Day or night, it's useful to have some understanding of the approach and its challenges for safety and efficiency.
The Lupine Meadows trailhead parking lot
The trailhead's parking area starts getting busy around 5 a.m. during the summer high season. People are coming and going at all hours of the day and night. It will be busier on the weekends. By noon, it is often overflowing with 100s of cars along the sides of the access road. The entire area needs a major overhaul.
The dirt road to the trailhead is often a washboardy, potholy mess that will eat your suspension.
~ Heading Out ~
It's about 1.7 miles to reach the first junction after leaving Lupine Meadows; or 30 minutes if you're walking quickly and non-stop.
The first junction you arrive at is the Valley Trail junction to Bradley Lake. Don't go to Bradley Lake. You're heading for Garnet Canyon. And don't go toward the lakes at the second junction either! Happens way too often.
A good portion of the trail to the first junction follows an east-west ridgeline. On the north side of the ridge is Glacier Gulch which is the drainage for Delta Lake. On the south side is the Burned Wagon Gulch.
Let's take a moment to discuss the unmarked trail which runs up the Burned Wagon Gulch and ends at this junction. In the photo above, the upper end of the unmarked Burned Wagon Gulch trail is gained by finding the trail in the trees and bushes.
Let's take a moment to discuss the unmarked trail which runs up the Burned Wagon Gulch and ends at this junction. In the photo above, the upper end of the unmarked Burned Wagon Gulch trail is gained by finding the trail in the trees and bushes.
The other end of the Burned Wagon Gulch trail starts along the
road leading to the Climbers' Ranch. You'll see the very small pullout just
after crossing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. That's the trailhead. Maybe 4 parking spaces. The Burned Wagon Gulch trail takes you within 500 feet or so of the Lucas Homestead. It also takes you right next to the Geraldine Lucas Memorial (you'll see a plaque atop a large boulder in an open field). She was the 2nd woman to climb the Grand Teton, and the first local woman to do so.
We prefer to use the Burned Wagon Gulch trail during May & June when snow covers the shaded portions of the summer trail from Lupine Meadows. The more narrow gulch trail is sometimes overgrown and you'll get soaked if dew is on the vegetation. Perhaps there's a greater chance of ticks.
The Park Service doesn't maintain the BWG trail very often but it's a good usable trail. It takes slightly more time to reach the first junction from the BWG trailhead than the busy Lupine Meadows trailhead. There is always the possibility of some flooding near the mouth of the gulch as snow melts off (head north to circle around it). The trail starts along the north slope (south face) of the gulch and avoids the low lands down the center.
We prefer to use the Burned Wagon Gulch trail during May & June when snow covers the shaded portions of the summer trail from Lupine Meadows. The more narrow gulch trail is sometimes overgrown and you'll get soaked if dew is on the vegetation. Perhaps there's a greater chance of ticks.
The Park Service doesn't maintain the BWG trail very often but it's a good usable trail. It takes slightly more time to reach the first junction from the BWG trailhead than the busy Lupine Meadows trailhead. There is always the possibility of some flooding near the mouth of the gulch as snow melts off (head north to circle around it). The trail starts along the north slope (south face) of the gulch and avoids the low lands down the center.
Just above the first junction are three sources of water which cross the
trail. The first source dries up after the snow melts at
elevations above it. It should probably be filtered. It
has the strongest flow in June (time varies yearly) and it has a modest cascade during its peak. It completely dries up before the summer high season.
The next two sources are usually available all summer long. They are tiny trickles of seepage water so most people avoid them. Many guides drink the water unfiltered. Both sources are just above the grade of the trail along the first switchback. You can't miss them. Early in the season, those two seepage areas have their uphill 'tanks' exposed (super-saturated to the surface). Animals will congregate directly above the location you plan to drink from. It's quite possible that those animals could contaminate the water. Perhaps less likely later in the season. It is fairly common to see animals within 100 yards of water sources, mostly deer, sometimes bears. We never filter our water but we choose the source carefully.
The next two sources are usually available all summer long. They are tiny trickles of seepage water so most people avoid them. Many guides drink the water unfiltered. Both sources are just above the grade of the trail along the first switchback. You can't miss them. Early in the season, those two seepage areas have their uphill 'tanks' exposed (super-saturated to the surface). Animals will congregate directly above the location you plan to drink from. It's quite possible that those animals could contaminate the water. Perhaps less likely later in the season. It is fairly common to see animals within 100 yards of water sources, mostly deer, sometimes bears. We never filter our water but we choose the source carefully.
Between the first and second junction (junction not switchback) is an old climbers' trail which is closed for rehab. Some climbers still poach the trail. There's barely a 60-second difference on the ascent between the two trails if you're in a hurry so there's usually no good reason to illegally poach the old trail.
There are several old shortcuts on the approach but park regulations require you to stay on a maintained trail when one's available to your destination. There's less of an issue if you are scrambling over talus or snow. Some shortcuts are not safe or efficient. Short-cutting during an emergency or for safety reasons may be a necessity. For example, you might need to move past a bear. Some unmarked trails are considered social trails which are acceptable for use. For example, the trail into Glacier Gulch that goes up to Delta Lake is one of them (You're not headed there. Just an example).
Do not go toward the lakes
After a bunch of switchbacks above the first junction, you will find yourself at the second junction which is 3 miles from the trailhead. Non-stop walkers moving fast and light usually get here in one hour from the trailhead. Do not go north toward the lakes. Head southish for Garnet Canyon. From here, the trail starts to flatten out with no more switchbacks until you're further inside the Canyon. Again, you might get a cellular signal before fully entering the canyon if you need to check the weather, or whatever.
Water crossing climbers' trail
About 4.1 miles from the trailhead, the trail disappears at a boulder field next to Garnet Creek. The Platforms Camping Zone is to your south on the other side of the creek (there is a sign). If you're not camping there, don't cross the creek. You'll need to scramble through the boulders to regain the trail. This area is known as the First Boulder Field. Sometimes it's referred to as the Platform's Boulder Field. The entire canyon is a boulder & talus field but the trail disappears here and it's the first big boulder field that you need to scramble through, thus the name.
At one time, the Platforms Camping Zone actually had platforms to pitch a tent on. If you are camping at the Platforms Camping Zone, you'll find that the best location to cross the creek varies with its flow and ground conditions (wet, snowy, icy, dry rock).
There is a common scramble to the camping site from the sign at the temporary end of the trail. Head slightly southwest from the sign and scramble up to an elevated boulder and jump across Garnet Creek from there. Or near there.
There is a common scramble to the camping site from the sign at the temporary end of the trail. Head slightly southwest from the sign and scramble up to an elevated boulder and jump across Garnet Creek from there. Or near there.
Sign at the 1st Boulder Field
You can also head for a big boulder with a "flat top" midway along the guided path through the boulders. Scramble down its southeast corner and look for some rock hopping options to cross the creek. It is also possible to scramble completely through the boulders and regain the climbers' trail before trying to cross the creek. It's just a longer approach.
The trail to the First Boulder Field was one of the first trails to be constructed in Grand Teton National Park. It was built by Civilian Conservation Corps laborers around the mid-1930's. The trail beyond there was constructed in 1977. The crew shown below was fixing a small landslide that crossed the trail. Their work is undercompensated but much appreciated.
You will make a 90° turn into the boulders at the end of the trail, then head in a southwest direction (overall direction). Take whatever zig-zaggy path you want to get past these boulders. The dry trail restarts next to the creek and you are always on the north side of the creek. There will be a bootpack over snow early in the season, sometimes sketchy.
Typical guided path when dry
The trail between the First Boulder Field and the Meadows' Camping Zone disappears in a few locations for a short distance. You should get back on the trail quickly. The trail is always near the creek. With snow, you'll see a bootpack. With unconsolidated snow, especially deeper snow in the fall, it's sometimes best to travel high on the hill by the south face of Disappointment Peak to avoid postholing into foot traps. These days, people get into Garnet Canyon every month of the year so you might see a bootpack through the boulders that a knowledgable climber took to avoid hazards.
There are signs next to the creek by the Meadows Camping Zone where the trail splits toward the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. You're not headed there. You're heading for the North Fork. Do not cross the creek like Kilian Jornet and Anton Krupicka who once headed toward the Middle Teton's South Col thinking it was the Lower Saddle.
If you're walking fast & traveling light, it's about 1.5 hours from Lupine Meadows to the sign at the Meadows Camping Zone (AKA Garnet Meadows). If you continue a strong pace, you're about 1 hour away from the Lower Saddle.
If you're walking fast & traveling light, it's about 1.5 hours from Lupine Meadows to the sign at the Meadows Camping Zone (AKA Garnet Meadows). If you continue a strong pace, you're about 1 hour away from the Lower Saddle.
The Meadows area used to be bigger. It was buried in rockfall. Hearing rockfall is pretty common. Usually, they're small events but sometimes large ones happen. Rockfall has caused serious injuries and death in Garnet Canyon. On August 27, 2013, a rockslide event tumbled into the South Fork of Garnet Canyon and
buried Phil White, a 54 year-old Wisconsin man. The slide happened off route. On August 8th, 2019, a river of rock cascaded off of Disappointment
Peak and sailed by climbers for at least 40 minutes. Apparently, that crossed the climbers' trail.
Stay to the creek's north side and head for Spalding Falls. You will follow the creek for a few minutes and then head up the switchbacks to the east of Spalding Falls. It is a very common mistake to cross the creek during the summer.
Looking back at the Meadows from the climbers' trail
We will examine the summer route by Spalding Falls in just a bit. Let's first look at some snow hazards on the Meadows' Headwall.
Feel free to scroll past this next section if you are climbing under dry conditions.
Early-Season Snow Hazards
Hazards are everywhere with snow underfoot and the snow above you during the spring. Take
an axe and crampons for more demanding conditions. An axe is always
recommended for high-consequence travel over snow on the approach.
On April 12, 2012, two skiers were buried under 10 feet of snow while sleeping in their tent at the base of Nez Perce near the summer climbers' trail. Avalanche paths tend to have fewer standing trees, or tall ones. An area by a healthy forest of trees should be safer during avalanche season.
On April 12, 2012, two skiers were buried under 10 feet of snow while sleeping in their tent at the base of Nez Perce near the summer climbers' trail. Avalanche paths tend to have fewer standing trees, or tall ones. An area by a healthy forest of trees should be safer during avalanche season.
In 2013, Gary Miller was descending the more-northern snow route
on the Meadows' headwall when he slid through a void in the snow and
lost his life. He was consumed by freezing water. Mark Anderson, 29, did the
same thing
in 1994. Robert Martin, 70, from Birmingham, Alabama was hiking down a snowfield near Spalding Falls when he slipped and tumbled into a pile of rocks.
June is one of the prettiest times to climb in the park with the snow-capped mountains rising above the lush green valley. It's also one of the most dangerous times to climb. Water from melting snow
undercuts the snow and forms moats & voids. Crevasses and fissures
open up. Snow & ice flies off cliffs. Melting snow turns to ice,
or icy snow, overnight. Freeze & thaw cycles increase the chances of
rockfall as does running water. High temperatures can turn snow into
torrents of slushy debris that flush from couloirs without much warning. Saturated snow is primed for wet slab avalanches. Rock-snow interfaces are often unstable. Postholing,
slips, and energy-sapping bootpacks are common.
It isn't just the snow that is dangerous. Wet rock is all over the place. Your shoe's soles are likely to have a thin layer of moisture that lacks traction. Back in September of 2013, Edward Tom, 40, of Boulder Colorado died after slipping over a cliff by the Caves Camping Zone
following a summer hailstorm.
A pinch point on the Meadows' Headwall
Gary Miller lost his life at this pinch point on the Meadows Headwall. He slipped into the moat. It's a very common line of travel. During the spring, we usually head this way. It's a more direct line to and from the Lower Saddle. Of course, conditions dictate our travel path. Those conditions can change throughout the day during spring and early summer. The path you take up the headwall may differ from the path you take down it.
The entire headwall can be a block of icy bulletproof snow in the morning and sloppy stuff an hour later. It helps to have an understanding of how the snow shapes up on various aspects as the day warms and cools. A few climbers get caught off guard by the changing conditions.
The entire headwall can be a block of icy bulletproof snow in the morning and sloppy stuff an hour later. It helps to have an understanding of how the snow shapes up on various aspects as the day warms and cools. A few climbers get caught off guard by the changing conditions.
A snowy Meadows' Headwall in mid-spring
<---southish--- ---northish--->
The Middle Teton rises above the Meadows Camping Zone between the two forks in Garnet Canyon. The large elevated rock outcroppings on the northern headwall are not recommended as ascent paths from the Meadows. Those outcroppings usually slow down climbers.
.JPG%20june%2023%202013.JPG)
Using backcountry skis to reach climbing objectives throughout
May is usually the fastest way to travel. By mid-June, you'll probably
be on foot for the entire trip. Every year is different. Nothing is really predictable weeks ahead of time.
If spring's snow conditions are nice & grippy, the more direct winter approach goes fairly fast on foot or skis. You'll need to select your morning departure time carefully so that the snow conditions will be optimal inside Garnet Canyon. Spring skiers start very early in the morning. Nearing the final transition to a dry summer approach it is sometimes quicker to use a winter route. We'd say use your best judgment but that can be hard to do if you haven't been on the route beforehand.
Sometimes the guides cut a path through snowy sections of the summer trail to the Lower Saddle. This is more likely if July rolls in and snow still sits on the summer trail.
If spring's snow conditions are nice & grippy, the more direct winter approach goes fairly fast on foot or skis. You'll need to select your morning departure time carefully so that the snow conditions will be optimal inside Garnet Canyon. Spring skiers start very early in the morning. Nearing the final transition to a dry summer approach it is sometimes quicker to use a winter route. We'd say use your best judgment but that can be hard to do if you haven't been on the route beforehand.
Sometimes the guides cut a path through snowy sections of the summer trail to the Lower Saddle. This is more likely if July rolls in and snow still sits on the summer trail.
FYI: Spring skiing off the Grand is very popular. As are other objectives in Garnet Canyon. Some areas in the Tetons have winter closures to protect wildlife
that extend into early spring so make sure you know what places to
avoid.
Let's get back to our summer approach
The summer climbers' trail is on the north side of Garnet Creek and runs by Spalding Falls. There are a series of switchbacks by the falls, and even more switchbacks above the falls. A few climbers will try using a
winter route to shortcut to and from the Lower Saddle during the summer. None will stop you.
Before reaching the top of Spalding Falls, and above it, you might notice a few side trails. Most are used to avoid lingering snow early in the climbing season. They melt off before the snowfields surrounding them melt off. Some do double duty and go to other climbing objectives like the popular Irene's Arete. Some are shortcuts.
The Picnic rock atop Spalding Falls
The picnic rock is next to the location where water gushes out of the ground and feeds the falls. Almost everyone drinks this water unfiltered.
There is more water further up the trail but this is the best place for filling up. Spalding Falls (and Spalding Bay) is named after Bishop Franklin S. Spalding who was on the first verified ascent of the Grand Teton in 1898 along with William O. Owen, John Shive and Frank Petersen. Spalding led the climb.
The top of the falls is also next to the Petzoldt's Caves Camping Zone. Paul Petzoldt, original founder of today's Exum Mountain Guides and NOLS, spent many nights camping at the caves. It was often a base camp for his challenging New Year's Eve winter ascents.
The Caves are a nice place to camp if you're on a multi-day summer climbing trip. There is a bear box at the Caves. Trees and rock provide some protection from sun and wind. Temperatures are usually comfortable. It's closer to good water and it hosts fewer climbers. It's also a reasonable distance to various objectives. All human waste must be packed out.
As mentioned above, there are several side trails in this area. You might take one and not realize it, especially under darkness. Directly above the Caves Camping Zone there are several shortcuts. Most meet back up with the summer climbers' trail. Most are used to avoid early-season snow. The park would prefer that you stay off vegetation and not use shortcuts when a perfectly good trail is available unless it's done for safety reasons.
You can see some shortcuts on satellite images and the previously mentioned mapping platforms that have GPS tracks.
Take a look at the next picture. At the end of the first traverse over the snow, there is a shortcut heading up a rib which meets back up with the summer trail. And by that corner, there is a spur running toward the Lower Saddle (petering out along the way but gets you a good distance to the drainage below the JHMG's Corbet High Camp), and another spur is running toward the Middle Teton. Some spurs have been around for decades and were legitimate trails but they have lost definition due to limited use.
Early-Season Conditions - view above the Caves
You're heading for those stunted trees that look like bushes. You'll
pass some super large boulders by those trees before the switchbacks
come to an end at a drainage. The drainage will have running water early
in the season, and wildflowers for most of the summer season (come and go). Look closely and you may see climbers on Watchtower.
Once again, slipping on the snow above here can send you over a cliff or crashing into rocks if you can't self arrest quickly under snowy conditions.
Once again, slipping on the snow above here can send you over a cliff or crashing into rocks if you can't self arrest quickly under snowy conditions.
Looking back toward Petzoldt's Caves & the Meadows.
The switchbacks on the official summer trail above the Caves rise high on the hillside to the NW of the Caves before turning westward toward the Lower Saddle.
Drainage crossing point. Water flows early in the season.
High on the hillside, the trail will parallel a drainage for a short distance just before you cross it. The center of the East Face of the Grand Teton will sit between two small boulders at the edge of the drainage for a moment as you near the crossing point. The switchbacks end here.
Additionally, in 2022, a large boulder rolled down the drainage and was stopped by a much smaller boulder right at the drainage crossing. It is shown in the next picture. It could slide further down the drainage as spring runoff undercuts the boulder but it was still there in 2023. It's a good marker.
Additionally, in 2022, a large boulder rolled down the drainage and was stopped by a much smaller boulder right at the drainage crossing. It is shown in the next picture. It could slide further down the drainage as spring runoff undercuts the boulder but it was still there in 2023. It's a good marker.
Boulder at the top of the switchbacks in 2022.
The trail is sometimes washed over with debris in the drainage during spring runoff and it won't stand out as an obvious crossing until later in the summer. It doesn't help that there are multiple little spur trails around this area. If you get off trail at this point, you'll probably find it again by heading west and up the slope for a short distance to get a better view. From here, it's mostly a horizontal traverse across the sloping talus field until you reach the Second Boulder Field where the trail disappears by the Moraines Camping Zone. We will drink the early-season water in this drainage without filtering but it's not our first choice.
If you find yourself on a trail that keeps ascending up the slope toward the East Face of the Grand, you're most likely on a trail that runs to the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides high camp. It sits at the top of the slope. Don't go there. The Corbet High Camp is named after one of the more fascinating characters in mountaineering & skiing, Barry Corbet. He birthed JHMG.
The good news is that you're headed for the Lower Saddle which will stand out like a sore thumb if you keep heading west so don't be too worried about getting lost.
The water in the next drainage (a short distance ahead of you to the west) flows throughout the climbing season. A rockslide ran down the drainage and the water lost its clarity in 2022. However, it looked much better in 2023. It's exposed for a few hundred feet so its purity is open to debate. Water that flows off of any Glacier or mountain can become contaminated before seeping into the ground and remain contaminated upon resurfacing. It rarely gets properly diluted and filtered over a short distance. Having said that, we have never gotten sick from drinking this water (100's of times) but it could happen.
2nd Drainage (below Corbet High Camp)
You might see campers by this drainage. There are several flat spots to pitch a tent above and below the climbers' trail. This is not a regulated camping zone. The rangers don't seem to care if you pitch a tent here but one never knows how any individual ranger will express their authority and carry out their mission to protect the talus from human activity. Our biggest concern, and possibly a ranger's, would be people using the area by the flowing water as a bathroom. The slightly elevated rockfall threats by the drainage should cross your mind.
Overview North Fork of Garnet Canyon
A few people get off trail after passing the drainage below the Corbet High Camp. The trail becomes rockier and narrower. It doesn't stand out like a neon sign but most people can recognize the trail. The trail goes uphill for a very short distance after passing this drainage and then continues west. Worst case scenario: you will get back on the trail at the Morainal Camping Zone. Just head for the Lower Saddle.
If you manage to stay on the trail, you will encounter the 2nd Boulder Field where the trail disappears for 200 feet or so. It's just before entering the signed Morainal Camping Zone.
Overview
Notice that the start of the camping zone is at a break in the glacier's old moraine. The lateral moraine flattens and is covered by snow in the picture.
Closer look
View from the climber's trail
If you get off trail, visually follow the lateral moraine to your south and you'll find the trail and the sign for the camping zone as you get closer to the camping zone. It runs right into the first camping spot.
Campers in the Morainal Camping Zone can get water from the Middle Teton Glacier. The water from the Middle Teton Glacier is not always exposed along its length. You may need to search for a good tap.
A few people will ascend/descend the glacier's main drainage to the
south of the trail during the summer. It's the common winter variation. We don't
usually recommend it outside of snow season but for runners the snow fields may prove faster than the trail. If you are rock hopping
through the talus & boulders, exercise great care. Many large boulders are
unstable.
The summer trail through the Moraines Camping Zone to the Lower Saddle runs along the moraine on the northern side of the Middle Teton Glacier. We usually stay on the highest path along the elevated mound when we're heading for the saddle's Fixed Rope. Travel any path you want. You might see the sign for the western end of the Moraines Camping Zone if you take the high path.
Some camping sites at the Moraines take a little effort to find. They blend in with the surroundings. Most of the camping sites are a short distance off the trail to your left & right. Some can be difficult to find under darkness.
Some camping sites at the Moraines take a little effort to find. They blend in with the surroundings. Most of the camping sites are a short distance off the trail to your left & right. Some can be difficult to find under darkness.
Be careful where you pitch a tent. In September of 2007, a large rocklide fell from the Stettner Couloir and cascaded across
the western end of the moraines. The dust cloud could be seen from the valley floor. Rocks, some chest high, flew by two climbers who took shelter behind a large boulder. Their camping site took direct shots. The Park Service has shortened the Morainal Camping Zone because of such hazards.
Approved bear-resistant food storage canisters are required at the Morainal Camping Zone. Canisters can be checked out for free at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station with the purchase of a camping permit. There are bear boxes at the other camping sites. Feel free to donate a bear box.
Mid-June approach at the moraines above 10,000'
A bootpack up the Lower Saddle's headwall is used until enough snow has burned off the headwall to make the Fixed Rope the better option. As with the Meadows' headwall, the snow on the Saddle's headwall can be
icy, grippy, posty, and a sloppy mess all
in a single day.
Glissading down the saddle's headwall is popular. Of course, not everyone glissades. Many climbers walk directly up & down its face when conditions are favorable (it's steep). Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum sometimes took a standing slide & jog down it. The guides favor a bootpack across the headwall for their clients during the ascent. In 1985, a climber accidentally gave himself a lethal self-inflicted axe wound while on the headwall. Keep in mind that rocks can hide just under the snow's surface. It's no fun hitting one while glissading.
The climbers' trail runs directly to the Fixed Rope. When dry, it's pretty easy to get up and down the headwall without using the rope. The rope is handy when everything's wet and icy. It's also handy when everything is dry.
The semi-usable hiking paths below the Fixed Rope get decimated by rockfall, traffic and landslides. It's an easy place to slip. Happens often.
Wait for a dry climbers' trail if you want to eliminate your exposure to snow. Usually, around mid-July but it varies.... ..... ....
In 2011, the bootpack was still being used on Aug. 7th
The bootpack can be pretty sketchy under some conditions. If you slip, you'll probably just have a wild slide down the hill when it's all snow and no rocks. Hopefully, you're not poking yourself with a climbing axe.
Fixed Rope
The headwall is a good place to put on a helmet. In July of 2015, Tucker Zibilich was hiking below
the saddle when a boulder dislodged from higher up and crushed his arm. And
David
Perlman sustained significant injury from rockfall while hiking
from the
Fixed Rope to the top of the Lower Saddle in 2012. In 2022, a small
landslide started near the Fixed Rope and blew past guides sending
debris directly over the rope. In 2023, a large rockfall event flew down
the Fixed Rope's drainage early in the season when everything was
super-saturated.
Early-season snow is usually very slick & unstable below the Fixed Rope. Water undercuts snow forming weak snow bridges.
Early-season snow is usually very slick & unstable below the Fixed Rope. Water undercuts snow forming weak snow bridges.
Rockfall Zone
Guides usually belay clients here so it's easy to get delayed behind
other climbers. The guides often let unguided climbers pass when it is
safe to do so. They are working and their clients are probably
eager to get where they are going so you can extend the courtesy to them
if you're not in a hurry.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Don't travel directly above or to the right of the Fixed Rope. The area is full of very unstable rocks which are a serious danger to climbers below you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
.jpg)
Looking down at the upper headwall above the fixed rope
The first documented trip to the Lower Saddle was on July 29, 1872. Native Americans probably made it to the saddle way before then. They probably made many first ascents of the easier peaks in the Tetons but they are unlikely to get any credit for a first ascent. Perhaps, unlike today's climbers, they didn't care about the trivia or naming everything after themselves.
.jpg)
Looking back
None is going to stop you from climbing the rock on the north buttress or hiking up its northern couloir during the summer but someone might try to alert you to hazards. Once again, the southern aspect is a very dangerous area to be scrambling if people are below you so please avoid it during the high season. The rocks are just too unstable. And those rocks will tumble over the Fixed Rope. In 2023, the park installed a camera atop the buttress to monitor the Middle Teton Glacier.
Many sloppy trails are encountered as you leave the Fixed Rope and head toward the saddle's SE corner. Climbers take different trails as the snow melts off the headwall. The best trail is usually the last one to burn off.
.JPG)
A water source is southeast of the saddle's most-eastern camping spot. A short section of garden hose collects water and directs it into your container. It's maintained by the guides. The water hose sometimes collects a few particulates with a weaker flow. It's not often. Most people drink it unfiltered. Treat it as you wish.
The saddle's SE corner
While
the water is usually safe to drink unfiltered, the hose can become
contaminated where everyone touches it. You might want to keep it
outside of your water container. Water filters are popular but Potable Aqua Iodine Tablets might be a better choice for soloing climbers if you're uncomfortable drinking backcountry water. They are easy to pack.
.JPG)
Water sometimes flows between between the Grand's Lower and Upper Saddles. It isn't always around when you need it, or easy to access. Make sure to fill up your water containers at the saddle if you need water. Or before there.
It's not unusual for free-soloers to reach the Lower Saddle as other climbers are retreating from the mountain due to early-morning conditions. It's not always cold, windy and icy during the summer but we do cycle through those days. It's usually worse in the morning. Thin ice might burn off quickly with warming weather or become easier to manage by the time soloing climbers arrive.
This
water source might dry up late in the summer. Precipitation can bring
it back to life. Sometimes it flows under snow and is harder to find. As
a last resort, the nearby seepage area can be used to collect water off
the surface if it's not frozen.
.JPG)
The Middle Teton rising above the Lower Saddle
Water sometimes flows between between the Grand's Lower and Upper Saddles. It isn't always around when you need it, or easy to access. Make sure to fill up your water containers at the saddle if you need water. Or before there.
It's not unusual for free-soloers to reach the Lower Saddle as other climbers are retreating from the mountain due to early-morning conditions. It's not always cold, windy and icy during the summer but we do cycle through those days. It's usually worse in the morning. Thin ice might burn off quickly with warming weather or become easier to manage by the time soloing climbers arrive.
The saddle seen from the Grand's western aspect
Kilian Jornet took about 48 minutes on his round-trip between the Lower Saddle & the Grand's summit. Kilian's descent at 19 minutes was slower than Rolando Garibotti's self-claimed record of 12 minutes from the summit to the Lower
Saddle. That's a highly suspect descent time but Rolo was fast in his
day. He may have used the rappel, or run down a snowy drainage.
Conditions, acclimation, skill set, fitness, injuries, age, knowledge of the route, weather, hydration, fuel, sleep, mental state, & gear all play a part in how fast you will move. The rangers warn that some climbers using protection have taken 10 hours from the saddle to complete their journey.
Conditions, acclimation, skill set, fitness, injuries, age, knowledge of the route, weather, hydration, fuel, sleep, mental state, & gear all play a part in how fast you will move. The rangers warn that some climbers using protection have taken 10 hours from the saddle to complete their journey.
.JPG)
Camping at the saddle
It is worth acclimating to the elevation & the effort if you're not
used to long approaches and high elevations. Camping overnight is one way to do that. If you
want to camp overnight, consider selecting a camping location that's
suited to your fitness level. Carrying a heavy pack all the way to the
wind-blown Lower Saddle is a burden if you're not in excellent shape.
You might be better off camping at a lower elevation and starting
your final approach 30 to 60 minutes earlier the following day.
.JPG)
It's a good idea to check the weather forecast & radar at the saddle if you have a smartphone. You can also check the Saddle's weather station data online to see temperatures and wind speeds.
.JPG)
Do not count on using the 2 huts at the Lower Saddle for shelter. They are not public shelters. Sometimes they accommodate climbers during emergencies. The rangers & guides usually assemble their huts by mid-June and take them down by mid-September. It varies. The guides pretty much shut down operations by the weekend after Labor Day. The last big trip for Exum Mountain Guides is usually the Jackson Hole High School mountaineering club.
There's a 'rest stop' on the western side of the saddle that can be used for privacy but it is not an outhouse. You're required to pack human waste off the saddle. Disposable zip-lock Mylar bags are often used (Wag-Bags). In less traveled areas of the park you can bury waste 6-8 inches and 200' away from wetlands. Bags were available with a camping permit at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. It is unknown if that will continue. They are available at some stores within the park and in Jackson.
There are camping spots on the western slope of the saddle (and caves) so choose a location to relieve yourself (or expose yourself) carefully if you're not using the rest stop. Speaking of caves, keep in mind that the shallow caves on the saddle's western aspect do not provide protection from lightning and might increase your odds of being hit.
According to the CDC: "Small caves, overhangs, and wet stream beds are likely to be more dangerous than open areas". We imagine that there are a few caveats attached to the word "likely". And there are no safe open areas on the saddle but open areas might be safer than caves. People are usually zapped by ground currents and not direct hits. BTW: If it starts hailing, lightning is often right around the corner.
According to the CDC: "Small caves, overhangs, and wet stream beds are likely to be more dangerous than open areas". We imagine that there are a few caveats attached to the word "likely". And there are no safe open areas on the saddle but open areas might be safer than caves. People are usually zapped by ground currents and not direct hits. BTW: If it starts hailing, lightning is often right around the corner.
Let's take a quick look at where you're headed if you're headed further up the mountain.
Close-up view of the Black Dike below the Needle
Climbers usually avoid the routes on the eastern side of the Needle. They can be used; however, they are usually more time consuming and sometimes presents greater hazards than the western side. Sticking to the trade route is almost always the best advice for the majority of climbers, especially novice climbers.
The igneous Black Dike is made of diabase which is harder than the surrounding rock. The dikes seen on Mt. Moran and the Middle Teton are also diabase. On the Middle Teton, the diabase is softer than the surrounding granite and it forms a slot. On Mt. Moran, the diabase is harder than the gneiss and the dike sticks out from the face. Moran's relatively easy CMC route runs right by it.
The climbers' trail running up the north side of the saddle splits into many spurs. Choose any that head for the Needle. The scrambling begins after passing the Black Dike. Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding climbers take the same approach to the western side of the Needle.
The climbers' trail running up the north side of the saddle splits into many spurs. Choose any that head for the Needle. The scrambling begins after passing the Black Dike. Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding climbers take the same approach to the western side of the Needle.
Climbers usually avoid the routes on the eastern side of the Needle. They can be used; however, they are usually more time consuming and sometimes presents greater hazards than the western side. Sticking to the trade route is almost always the best advice for the majority of climbers, especially novice climbers.
Having said that, there is an easy and steppy chimney on the eastern aspect of the Needle that runs up to a point about 30 feet west of the Central Rib's Lower Crossover (this location is highlighted below). Watch for loose rocks. There is also a ledge/ramp system to the east of that steppy chimney that runs right to the Lower Crossover. Other variations are more involved but possible objectives for a few climbers.
Overview as seen from the Middle Teton
CLICK TO ENLARGE
The most common ways to gain the Central Rib's Bench are via the Chockstone Chimney or the Briggs' Slab. We will look at others but those are the most common.
Our overviews of the Owen-Spalding & Upper Exum routes cover the scrambling above the Lower Saddle but we will look at parts of it here. The more technical climbing starts at the Upper Saddle for Owen-Spalding climbers, and at the end of Wall Street for Upper Exum climbers.
When dry, a few PG-13 climbing moves are required before reaching the more sustained technical climbing on each route but it's mostly a scramble to get there. Injuries and death have occurred on the approach so never let down your guard.
Access to the "bench"
A satellite view
Our overviews of the Owen-Spalding & Upper Exum routes cover the scrambling above the Lower Saddle but we will look at parts of it here. The more technical climbing starts at the Upper Saddle for Owen-Spalding climbers, and at the end of Wall Street for Upper Exum climbers.
When dry, a few PG-13 climbing moves are required before reaching the more sustained technical climbing on each route but it's mostly a scramble to get there. Injuries and death have occurred on the approach so never let down your guard.
Accessing the Central Rib's Bench
You need to access the Central Rib's bench. The good news is that there are many variations to gain the bench. Pick one that best fits your needs based on conditions and your skill set. Again, the most common two variations are the Briggs Slab and the Chockstone Chimney.
The first opportunity for some climbing is at the Chockstone Chimney on the western side of the Needle. It's hard to miss but some people do. There is only one chimney and it is more of a drainage chute with a chockstone or two.
Guides typically use the Briggs' Slab or a variation near it.
Another overview
Click to Enlarge
The first opportunity for some climbing is at the Chockstone Chimney on the western side of the Needle. It's hard to miss but some people do. There is only one chimney and it is more of a drainage chute with a chockstone or two.
Guides typically use the Briggs' Slab or a variation near it.
Click to Enlarge
Expanded overview
Cross the ridge to reach the Upper Exum Route
The Chockstone Chimney extends to the Lower Crossover via a small drainage once above the Briggs' Slab. Upper Exum climbers will follow the drainage and head east over the ridgeline of the Central Rib. After crossing the ridge, they cross the Wall Street Couloir and run up an obvious gully to reach the Wall Street shelf which takes them to the Upper Exum Ridge (see below)....
The Wall Street area
Let's look at the route to the Upper Saddle for Owen-Spalding climbers....
Scramble to the Upper Saddle (unseen)
Climbers heading for the Owen-Spalding route can take a Black Rock Chimney variation along the Central Rib to reach the Upper Saddle. Or, they can use the Upper Western Rib. Be attentive to the movements of other climbers in the area. It is easy to dislodge rocks on others, or have others dislodge rocks in your direction.
View of the Central Rib from an area near the Enclosure - looking SSE
.JPG)
.JPG)
A look down the northern side of the Upper Saddle
The Black Ice Couloir on right side
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Winter Access to Garnet Canyon
Winter access via skis
A skin track might be seen if there's no fresh snow covering it.
The interior Teton Park Rd (AKA: the TPR)
is closed between November 1st & May 1st between the Taggart Lake
Trailhead and Signal Mountain Lodge. There is a section of the Taggart
Lake parking area that is set aside for overnight backcountry travelers
during this time. Look for the signs.
Most
folks use skis with skins to access Garnet Canyon in the winter. The
most common
winter route runs across a frozen Bradley Lake and up Garnet Canyon
along the southern side of Garnet Creek. You can find skin tracks on
both sides of the creek, however.
Remember
to take extra water during the winter when sources are frozen or buried
at higher elevations. Usually, Spalding Falls has a trickle of water
under its icy exterior and the creek pokes through the snow in spots
below 9000'. The American Alpine Club has a nice review of snow travel techniques for climbers if you're interested.
More closeup view of the winter approach near the trailhead
Bear
spray might be needed along the Burned Wagon Gulch trail (^BWG^ see above) in the spring. Grizzly are known to
travel near Cottonwood Creek. Additionally, the area
sees fewer people so some bears might be more uncertain about the
threat you pose and might be surprised by your activity. You're also
more likely to find a carcass at the valley floor. Stay away from them.
Aggressive bear encounters are extremely rare on the climbers' trail. Highly unlikely but not impossible. Black bear
encounters are fairly common. They usually ignore you if you give them space.
It should go without saying but apparently some haven't gotten the message: Don't sucker punch a bear for being a bear. Bear spray is for aggressive
bears, not bears minding their own business that just happen to be in
your way.
Outside of well-traveled areas, we almost always take bear spray. Almost never up Garnet Canyon, however. Greater caution is advised when very small cubs are more common in the early spring. A carcass is flaming red flag.
You'll have a couple of options for accessing Garnet Canyon after the
Teton Park Road closes to vehicles at the end of October, but before everything freezes over.
A fairly quick option involves biking up the Teton Park Road (or adjacent pathway) when it's snow free to the Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead.
From there you can hike up the BWG trail to reach the trail for Garnet Canyon. Biking
is also a common option in the spring after the road is plowed. And you can
always hike the trails from the Taggart Lake parking lot to Garnet
Canyon. That's a long hike.
On the approach to Garnet Canyon in early April - one variation
There is a slight ridgeline between Bradley & Taggart lakes that runs up Shadow Peak which can be used to access Garnet Canyon but it's not necessarily your best option (it can be a faster option). That route needs plenty of compacted stable snow on the NE slopes and you'll need to know the route otherwise you'll end up in some messy terrain (downfall, etc). Stick to the traditional skin track route if this is your first rodeo.
A Note About Accidents
In
raw numbers, more climbers are injured or killed on the Grand Teton
than any other peak in the range. It sees the most traffic.
Additionally, the easiest route on the Grand is more technical than
easiest route on the Middle Teton which is probably the second most popular peak
in the Tetons. During the 20-year period from 1997 to 2017 the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers responded to 15 deaths and 96 rescue missions on the Grand Teton. Teewinot had 7 fatalities and 27 rescue missions while the Middle Teton saw 3 fatalities and 30 rescue missions. As mentioned above, snow travel is a leading cause of accidents.
In 1997, an Analysis of Backcountry Accidents in Grand Teton National Park was released by the University of Wyoming. A newer report
by George and Michelle Montopoli compiled data from incident reports in
Grand Teton National Park and they provided some of their insights to WyoFile
in 2016. The American Alpine Club looked at some accidents on the Grand
Teton over its climbing history and published some of the data in their 2016 Accidents in North American Climbing
publication. The AAC's accident database includes many accidents in the Tetons. It's a great read.
~ Height of the Grand Teton ~
The Grand's elevation on the National Park's website is often listed as 13,775ft or 13,770ft. Both were determined from an out-of-date datum of questionable value and older observation techniques. The datum, accuracy and precision of the above elevation is unknown but it is most certainly based on newer data. The USGS had the Grand at 13776.25ft (4199m) on its topoView website in 2024.
~ Emergency Information ~
GTNP's Dispatch Center
307-739-3301
307-739-3301
(Open 24/7, June 1 to Sept 30**)
The
park's dispatch center is open 24 hours every day during the summer.
Around 6am to 10pm at other times. During the summer it is almost always
best to contact them directly for park emergencies instead of calling
911 but both work fine. **Hours and operating dates are subject to change.
911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID, 24/7/365
911 messages and calls usually go to the Teton County, WY, Sheriff's Office.
Teton County, ID, can also
receive text messages via 911.
Information needed by the rescue team includes
1) The exact location of the injured party
2) The time of the accident
3) The nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) Equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, overnight gear, etc)
5) The number of people with the injured party
6) The plan of action (if any)
1) The exact location of the injured party
2) The time of the accident
3) The nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) Equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, overnight gear, etc)
5) The number of people with the injured party
6) The plan of action (if any)
7) An additional phone number of a party member may be helpful
The Teton County Backcountry SOS App
can send a text message with your GPS coordinates to 911 dispatchers if
your phone's GPS is active and you have cellular service. GPS
coordinates aren't necessary if your text message includes a backcountry
location with a well known and clearly articulated unique location such
as the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle, or Upper Exum's Friction Pitch.
Texting can save battery life and sometimes a text message will get through to 911 when a voice call will not.
Texting can save battery life and sometimes a text message will get through to 911 when a voice call will not.
Cellular service is available from the Lower Saddle & the summit of the Grand
Teton. It can be difficult to get a signal inside canyons. Satellite-based communication devices
are more useful in those situations but you probably don't need one during the summer peak season. Many guides are the first to
respond to emergencies and some carry two-way radios that can be used to
request additional assistance. Garnet Canyon is a very busy place
during the summer and help is usually nearby.
~ Night Sky ~
Spaceweather's Aurora forecast
NOAA 3-day Kp Forecast
Airnow's Fire & Smoke Map
GTNP Air Quality
Lower Saddle's Hourly Forecast
FAA's KJAC Weather Map
Time&Date's Night Sky info for Jackson
ClearNightSky's Forecast
Sky&Telescope's Sky Map
NOAA's GOES Satellite Images
Stellarium's Open-source Planetarium
(Web-based Stellarium)
Kp forecast by hour (UTC)
~
Local Climbing Guides
~
Unauthorized commercial guiding or participating in an
unauthorized commercial climb is illegal in Grand Teton
National Park.
The majority of Americans could never afford a commercially guided climb with the concessionaires of Grand Teton National Park. The target demographic of the climbing concessionaires is very white & very wealthy. While the cost seems particularly exclusive, the fact remains that most people make do without the guides and climbers are not required to pay a fee or acquire a permit to climb in GTNP. All visitors pay an entrance fee and possibly a camping fee.
Apparently, the National Park Service was especially passionate about making our national parks more relevant to diverse populations; however, refocusing the attention of the park's concessionaires on a different climbing demographic seems highly unlikely. The NPS currently regulates concessionaire rates and takes a percentage of the profits.
The majority of Americans could never afford a commercially guided climb with the concessionaires of Grand Teton National Park. The target demographic of the climbing concessionaires is very white & very wealthy. While the cost seems particularly exclusive, the fact remains that most people make do without the guides and climbers are not required to pay a fee or acquire a permit to climb in GTNP. All visitors pay an entrance fee and possibly a camping fee.
Apparently, the National Park Service was especially passionate about making our national parks more relevant to diverse populations; however, refocusing the attention of the park's concessionaires on a different climbing demographic seems highly unlikely. The NPS currently regulates concessionaire rates and takes a percentage of the profits.
If you're using a concessionaire, be sure to pick one that best fits your personal needs. Both guiding services employ exceptional mountaineers and they have similar safety records but they do provide different services. For example, only one concessionaire is allowed to guide the Owen-Spalding route during the height of the climbing season. We would not recommend that route if you're paying the guide services. Take a more interesting route. The JH Mountain Guides' high camp is located away from the public camping zones if you're looking for more solitude.
At one time, about half of all climbers signing up for a guided climb of the Grand never summited. The reasons varied from poor conditions to the failure of clients to acclimate to the elevation or effort. Ask your guiding service about their success rate. The high cost is usually non-refundable due to weather, conditions, or your inability to summit.
~ Some Guiding History ~
16-year-old Paul Petzoldt started guiding people in the Tetons soon after his first ascent in 1924. In 1929, a smaller version of today's Grand Teton National Park was established and Paul's guiding service slowly grew alongside the public's interest in the Tetons. Glenn Exum started working for Paul in 1931 and became a partner in 1934 (sources differ on dates). They renamed Paul's school & guide service to The Petzoldt-Exum School of American Mountaineering which is now known as Exum Mountain Guides. In 1955, Paul turned the concession over to Glenn, or "Ex" as he used to call him.
In the early days, Paul and Glenn would crown just about anyone
a guide if the individual could make it up the mountain with
some confidence. By today's standards,
"....no one could have been less professional than pretty
much all of the Exum guides",
proclaimed the late Barry Corbet
about those early years (Barry
was a former Exum guide who started Jackson Hole Mountain
Guides). The guide services became much more selective about hiring
in the later years.
Glenn and Paul didn't hire too many guides to begin with. When
Dick Pownall
began guiding in 1947, he and
Mike Brewer
were the only hired guides.
Bob Merriam
became a third guide in 1951.
Over 80 guides
are currently listed on the Exum website. Not all are active in
the Tetons, or actively guiding. And about
40 guides
cover the Tetons to varying degrees for Jackson Hole Mountain
Guides.
The first
female guide
in the Tetons was
Catherine Cullinane, starting with Exum Mountain Guides in 1981. She ended up
marrying
Renny Jackson. Other women, such as
Nancy Feagin, also joined in the 80s.
Irene Beardsley
might actually lay claim to being
the first female guide
in the Tetons, as an "assistant".
During the early 30s, the climbing school offered three levels
of training at $4, $7, and $15 which was for the advanced class
according to
this video with Glenn Exum. The total cost for the training and the climb ran around $30.
A
statement by Dave Dornan
from an oral history of Exum Mountain Guides said that in
1952, "They only had one climbing school in those days, just the
basic school and it was rope management, balance, climbing,
and then rappels and the rappels were body rappels."
Prices were in the $50 range for two-day trips up
the Grand in the 1960s. In 1988,
a story in the Washington Post
reported that Exum Mountain Guides offered a four-day package,
including two days of instruction and a two-day climb of Grand
Teton, for $274 from July 25 to Aug. 25. Meanwhile, Jackson Hole
Mountain Guides offered a three-day version which cost climbers
$295. Prices could rise depending on the difficulty of the
route, the number of people climbing or training together, and
the number of days involved. The first time Paul was asked to
guide a group of men up the mountain
he charged them $100
— more than he could make all summer as a ranch hand. Today, the
lowest per-person cost for a large group is around $600, before
any tips. The highest prices can extend into the thousands for a
private single-client climb.
In 1981,
a 70-year-old Glenn Exum
(age has been reported as 68, 69, & 70. He was born in 1911) made his last ascent of the Upper Exum route on the 50th
anniversary of his first ascent of the ridge. Three years later
in '84,
a 76-year-old Paul Petzoldt
made his last ascent of the Grand Teton on the 60th anniversary
of his first climb. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides accompanied
Paul on his trip. Paul's former student and employee
Andy Carson owned JHMG at the time. The old quote
about Paul is that he knew the Tetons like a good cabbie knows
the Bronx. Rod Newcomb, former guide & owner of Exum Mtn Guides, is said to have made over 400 ascents and into his 70s.
The
Exum
website has a short overview of their history. As does the
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
website. Many
alumni and employees
of Petzoldt's
National Outdoor Leadership School
had an ownership hand in the JHMG which started guiding in 1968.
Apparently, the park always wasn't keen on having a second
concessionaire.
~
The Guide Books ~
A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range
'The Bible'
Its presentation is a little dated
Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park
Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park
Most guide books are available at the Teton County Library (TCLIB.org). Some older and fascinating guide books are also available. Newer guide books are available at Teton Mountaineering.
Both places carry several books by Teton climbers that aren't guide books. We have yet to find a guide book that is truly outstanding in
terms of depth of coverage of popular routes but they all have
some value. The internet may kill off guide books at some point. Climbers with guidebooks in hand still get off
route, confused and frustrated with their guidance. The most
complete book is 2023 edition of "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range".
~ December through March ~
Winter 1976
According to
the newspaper account, Paul was 67 when the above photo was taken. Temperatures
reached -30 at one point and winds hit 60 mph during Paul's annual
New Year's climb. Park City's Audrey Stevens, 43, was on the climb
and only the 4th woman to ever attempt the winter climb with Paul.
She was a member of the
Wasatch Mountain Club. Unfortunately, she did not summit but 9 men did. An effort was
organized by other members of the party to get them back to camp
after whiteout conditions delayed them.
~ April, May & June ~
Skier below the Double Chimney on the OS route (Screenshot of Z / TGR)
1971 was also the year that Sylvain Saudan skied Mount Hood in Oregon, and Fritz Stammberger dropped in on the North Maroon Peak in Colorado.
Just because ice or snow still sits on the route you wish to climb doesn't mean that there aren't plenty of secure dry holds and t-shirt temperatures.
~
The Best Time Of Year To Climb
~
~ July & August ~
The best time of year to climb the Grand Teton is usually between
mid-July and mid-to-late August if you're looking for dry conditions,
long days, and warm temperatures. The actual 'best time' will
fluctuate within that time period. Winter-like storms can blast through
the Tetons at any time of year so there are no guarantees.
The steep sun-baked climbing routes are often in better shape than the approach as we start summer. The south-facing Upper Exum cleans up fairly quickly but snow challenges can remain up high as we roll into July. Sometimes the Owen-Spading route never completely dries out. On average, free-soloing climbers have found suitable conditions for safe & efficient travel by mid-July. Just depends. The mountain was in fairly nice shape at the start of July in 2021, after a warm spring and a mild snowpack. The general rule of thumb is that when Mt. Glory above Teton Pass is completely free of snow then it's time to go fishing and climbing.
The steep sun-baked climbing routes are often in better shape than the approach as we start summer. The south-facing Upper Exum cleans up fairly quickly but snow challenges can remain up high as we roll into July. Sometimes the Owen-Spading route never completely dries out. On average, free-soloing climbers have found suitable conditions for safe & efficient travel by mid-July. Just depends. The mountain was in fairly nice shape at the start of July in 2021, after a warm spring and a mild snowpack. The general rule of thumb is that when Mt. Glory above Teton Pass is completely free of snow then it's time to go fishing and climbing.
Roped parties should plan for delays on these easy routes with
nice
weather and conditions. Climbers aren't always delayed and the
mountains can still be a place of solitude. The odds favor crowds on the
weekends.
As one might expect, July 4th is pretty busy in town; not always in the
mountains, however.
~ September, October & November ~
The climbing conditions can deteriorate quickly as we leave August
and enter September. The climbing concessionaires are winding down
operations by the second week in September, and they dismantle their
high camps around mid-September. The days are getting shorter &
colder. Overnight precipitation usually falls as snow at upper
elevations. And sunshine doesn't reach around the western aspect of
the Grand like it does in July so poor conditions on the
Owen-Spalding route tend to stick around. Nonetheless, the weather
can seesaw between extremes from year to year so don't discount the
possibility of nice climbing into October.
Snowy conditions on the approach in the fall season can be challenging. Shallow unconsolidated snow hides foot traps. And the climbers' trail might be hard to identify so you're more likely to travel off trail and into messy terrain. And an icy approach is rarely fun. The approach isn't always icy or snowy during the fall season but the odds increase with each passing day. The less experienced mountaineer should not underestimate the hazards.
Peak fall foliage usually arrives between the third week of September and the first week of October. Keep tabs on the fall foliage by visiting GTNP's social media accounts, or by searching your favorite hashtag on social media.
Snowy conditions on the approach in the fall season can be challenging. Shallow unconsolidated snow hides foot traps. And the climbers' trail might be hard to identify so you're more likely to travel off trail and into messy terrain. And an icy approach is rarely fun. The approach isn't always icy or snowy during the fall season but the odds increase with each passing day. The less experienced mountaineer should not underestimate the hazards.
Peak fall foliage usually arrives between the third week of September and the first week of October. Keep tabs on the fall foliage by visiting GTNP's social media accounts, or by searching your favorite hashtag on social media.
Hazards are everywhere
November is one of those months when conditions are usually too
poor for a fast ascent. Occasionally, the snow is deep enough on
the approach for skis and the weather isn't too cold for an
enjoyable fall climb. Conditions on the approach are often the
worst thing about making the climb in November. The Tetons are
full of mountaineers who get out under any conditions but most
diehards have better things to do in November. Keep in mind that
the interior
Teton Park Road
between the Taggart Lake trailhead & Signal Mountain Lodge
closes on November 1st, so climbers will need to use the longer
Taggart Lake trailhead
as their takeoff point.
~ December through March ~
Low temperatures and less than ideal conditions keep many
mountaineers off the Grand between December and the end of March
but some find it exhilarating. Adventures often begin where others
turn around. Paul Petzoldt enjoyed packing a bottle of champagne
to the summit on New Year's Eve and taking
NOLS students
with him. The first "winter" ascent included Paul,
Fred Brown
(a Jackson Hole skiing pioneer), and Eldon Petzoldt on
December 19, 1935. They had a balmy jacket-free day on the summit
above a valley floor frozen at -20°F.
Technically speaking, the winter season is officially between the
Winter Solstice
& the
Spring Equinox
so if you want to say you made a winter ascent don't go up in
November or April, or
December 19, 1935. Please keep in mind that park's rescue services are in short
supply during the winter. Usually, TCSAR steps in to assist with
serious accidents but flight time is limited to daylight and poor
conditions can delay any rescue. Plan for cold-weather emergencies
if heading out.
Skiers
are a common sight in Garnet Canyon when conditions are favorable
but most are not headed for the Grand during the coldest dark days
of winter. Skiing off the Grand usually gets more traction near
the end of March or early April. Oddly enough, the
first winter ascent of the Exum Ridge, February 19-21, 1972, and the
first winter ascent of the West Face, Feb. 19-22, 1972, happened several years after the North
Face had its first winter ascent.
David R. Smith, who was on the first winter ascent of the Exum
Ridge in '72, wrote about
another winter ascent up the Grand Teton
on February 9, 1974, with
Dave George,
Peter Gibbs,
David Lowe, and
George Lowe.
“After a late start (5:30 A.M.) we toured up Garnet Canyon,
leaving our skis just below the Caves. After lunch on the
Lower Saddle, we fought deep unconsolidated snow to the
Upper Saddle, trying to keep up with George Lowe who was in
the lead breaking trail. The iced Owen-Spalding route
required four roped pitches. We then traversed over to the
Exum ridge, climbed more unconsolidated snow to the summit
at six P.M. We descended quickly in order to make the rappel
to the Upper Saddle, not wishing to repeat the 1972 winter
experience when David Lowe and I had been forced to bivouac
after climbing the Exum ridge. After an hour of brewing hot
tea at the Lower Saddle Hut, we skied down in marginal
moonlight, arriving at
Beaver Creek
at 11:30 P.M."
According to an
American Alpine Club Journal article, in early March of 1949, Paul Petzoldt with two partners set out
to climb the Grand. They took skis and rope,
but no ice-axes or crampons. They reported that most of the
climbing sections were free of ice and snow; however, there was a
"heavy accumulation of frost feathers". The temperature at
the lower saddle was reported to be -2° F. Oddly, the summit
registers for
1948 and 1949
are not available.
The end of March can be a very nice time of year to climb the Owen-Spalding if there's a warm spell and stable snow.
The end of March can be a very nice time of year to climb the Owen-Spalding if there's a warm spell and stable snow.
~ April, May & June ~
During these months the days are getting longer & warmer as we
roll toward summer. April can be better than May in terms of safety
& precipitation but it varies from year to year. There are some
Aprils when you can walk all the way to the Lower Saddle
without it becoming a postholing nightmare. All of our published
trip reports were walk-ins; however, most climbers are using AT skis
to get into Garnet Canyon in April & May. While walk-ins are
more demanding undertakings, they are also great preparation for the
summer season.
As we pointed out above, this is a popular time to ski the Grand. Most backcountry skiers ascend three couloirs to reach the summit: the Stettner to the Chevy and Ford Couloirs (lots of bootpacking). The Chevy is a short connector link between the much larger Ford & Stettner couloirs. There are some variations of the FCS and here. The Owen-Spalding route is an alternative to using the couloirs during the winter. If multiple parties are attempting the Grand, it might be wise to choose the OS route and take a top down approach if you're below others. The best option is usually ascending the couloirs together.
As we pointed out above, this is a popular time to ski the Grand. Most backcountry skiers ascend three couloirs to reach the summit: the Stettner to the Chevy and Ford Couloirs (lots of bootpacking). The Chevy is a short connector link between the much larger Ford & Stettner couloirs. There are some variations of the FCS and here. The Owen-Spalding route is an alternative to using the couloirs during the winter. If multiple parties are attempting the Grand, it might be wise to choose the OS route and take a top down approach if you're below others. The best option is usually ascending the couloirs together.
Winter camping isn't for everyone but some still do it. The
snow-covered Meadows Camping Zone is a popular overnight stopping
point during the spring (there can still be
avalanche hazards from above). The area by
Corbet High Camp
is also a common overnight camping location for Grand skiers.
A one-day ski descent of the Grand is the norm these days.
Jared Inouye, Andy Dorais and Jason Dorais
skied the Ford/Stettner Route with a round-trip time of 5:17 from
Lupine Meadows.
Factoid: Ski industry pioneer
Earl Ervin Clark
cut his teeth climbing in the Tetons with the
Chicago Mountaineering Club
and helped set up the first ski camp in
GTNP's Alaska Basin
in 1941.
Avalanche dangers
exist throughout the spring as do
snow-travel
hazards like sliding over a cliffband. About a third of all
accidents in the park occur on snow. In April & May, freeze and
thaw cycles are most noticeable at mid-elevations. They help
consolidate the snow for hikers while cleaning handholds. Upper
elevations are usually getting snow in April & May. There's
very little, if any, exposed
verglas
on the technical climbing lines unless it's an abnormal weather
year. You may find patches of exposed ice from the previous fall.
The valley floor starts to fully bloom around the third week of May. The park's spring foliage arrives a little later than Jackson's. The valley floor can see snowfall at any time in May. And several feet of snow can fall at higher elevations. Ice on low-elevation lakes tends to burn off at the very end of April or early May. The Teton Park Road which takes you to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead opens on May 1st. The trail to Garnet Canyon from Lupine Meadows is rarely free of snow at that time. On some occasions, the Lupine Meadows road is still covered in snow on May 1st. We use the Burned Wagon Gulch trail during May because it's almost always in better shape than the lower Lupine Meadows' trail.
The valley floor starts to fully bloom around the third week of May. The park's spring foliage arrives a little later than Jackson's. The valley floor can see snowfall at any time in May. And several feet of snow can fall at higher elevations. Ice on low-elevation lakes tends to burn off at the very end of April or early May. The Teton Park Road which takes you to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead opens on May 1st. The trail to Garnet Canyon from Lupine Meadows is rarely free of snow at that time. On some occasions, the Lupine Meadows road is still covered in snow on May 1st. We use the Burned Wagon Gulch trail during May because it's almost always in better shape than the lower Lupine Meadows' trail.
Bill Briggs' ski line from mid-June, 1971
1971 was also the year that Sylvain Saudan skied Mount Hood in Oregon, and Fritz Stammberger dropped in on the North Maroon Peak in Colorado.
It took 41 years after Bill Briggs first skied the Grand Teton
before the first woman,
Kit Deslauriers, skied it solo in June of 2013. She also
skied off of Everest
(to the degree possible)
with her husband Rob and Jimmy Chin
while successfully becoming
the first person to ski the highest peak on every continent. Her kids
Grace and Tia
aren't too far behind mom & dad.
June is warm, the days are long, and the snow-covered mountains with the green valleys below look their best. The national park is fully leafed out below 8500' by the second week of June. The town of Jackson is at a lower elevation and gets an earlier start to spring. The impressive arrowleaf balsamroot sunflowers on the Garnet Canyon trail tend to reach a peak in June and fade in July. They are quickly followed by other wildflowers which come and go throughout the season. Early-season wildflowers keep appearing earlier every year according to research. More information on valley plants can be found at TetonPlants.org.
Conditions on the approach in June can be nasty — from slushy to frozen. Or, nice and grippy. Those conditions can change within an hour once the sun gets cooking, or sets. You will still find snow on backcountry hiking trails in June. It can be a very dangerous time of year to be in the backcountry if you aren't clued in to the hazards.
June is warm, the days are long, and the snow-covered mountains with the green valleys below look their best. The national park is fully leafed out below 8500' by the second week of June. The town of Jackson is at a lower elevation and gets an earlier start to spring. The impressive arrowleaf balsamroot sunflowers on the Garnet Canyon trail tend to reach a peak in June and fade in July. They are quickly followed by other wildflowers which come and go throughout the season. Early-season wildflowers keep appearing earlier every year according to research. More information on valley plants can be found at TetonPlants.org.
Conditions on the approach in June can be nasty — from slushy to frozen. Or, nice and grippy. Those conditions can change within an hour once the sun gets cooking, or sets. You will still find snow on backcountry hiking trails in June. It can be a very dangerous time of year to be in the backcountry if you aren't clued in to the hazards.
The actual climbing conditions in June can throw you a curve
ball but it's usually a mix of snow and ice. Most hand holds on
walls are dry if they're not in a drainage path.
Freeze & thaw cycles
really get going at higher elevations in June. The
temperatures can climb well above freezing during the day and then
dip below freezing at night which means that new ice (or icy snow) is forming overnight. That cycle continues for an indefinite time
that's dependent upon the weather and can easily continue into July.
High temperatures can remove a layer of grippy snow and expose
ice.
It is sometimes easier to climb over grippy snow in April than to
climb over ice, and icy snow, in June.
Those freeze & thaw cycles increase the chances of rockfall. Continuous warm temperatures, especially without a freeze cycle, increase the odds of wet-slab avalanches and flushing in drainages. In addition to runoff, evaporation removes much of the moisture on the upper mountain at this time.
Those freeze & thaw cycles increase the chances of rockfall. Continuous warm temperatures, especially without a freeze cycle, increase the odds of wet-slab avalanches and flushing in drainages. In addition to runoff, evaporation removes much of the moisture on the upper mountain at this time.
To see a variety of backcountry hazards play out, watch this classic
ski-mountaineering video with Steve Shea which took place starting
in June of '78 over the course of six weeks and an additional
four weeks in ’79 according to
a story in Adventure Journal...
SuperTopo discussion about Fall Line
Steve's on the Grand & the Middle Teton
Steve's on the Grand & the Middle Teton
Bob Carmichael
provides some additional insight into the making of Fall Line on
his
Vimeo channel. His account differs slightly from the one in Adventure Journal.
His field crew included
Larry Bruce,
Greg Lowe,
Steve Shea, and
David Breashears. He says they camped at the Lower Saddle for 7 weeks while
making the movie.
Bill Briggs
ran supplies to the saddle. Steve was the second person to ski the
Grand. Bob has some other interesting
climbing videos.
Larry Bruce was married to the American rock climber
Molly Higgins
who, with
Barb Eastman, made the first all-woman ascent up The Nose on El Capitan. Barb
started working as a Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger in 1980, along
with
Anne Macquarie
during a time when female climbing rangers were a rare sight.
Larry Bruce and Steve Shea were living in Aspen, CO, in 1978, as were many mountaineers like Michael Kennedy and ski-mountaineering legend Lou Dawson. In the 70's and early 80's, Aspen was a nice place for a lowlife skier or mountaineer. Jobs at the Aspen Skiing Company were paying $5 to $6/hr and an evening job at the Crystal Palace came with a ski pass. The perfect blue-collar hideout during the early 80's was the infamous Woody Creek Tavern. Nowadays, what made Aspen accessible and special during that time has long since faded. The Town of Jackson and its surrounding communities have had similar changes and we have been following Aspen's trajectory like a runaway locomotive on Donner Pass.
Larry Bruce and Steve Shea were living in Aspen, CO, in 1978, as were many mountaineers like Michael Kennedy and ski-mountaineering legend Lou Dawson. In the 70's and early 80's, Aspen was a nice place for a lowlife skier or mountaineer. Jobs at the Aspen Skiing Company were paying $5 to $6/hr and an evening job at the Crystal Palace came with a ski pass. The perfect blue-collar hideout during the early 80's was the infamous Woody Creek Tavern. Nowadays, what made Aspen accessible and special during that time has long since faded. The Town of Jackson and its surrounding communities have had similar changes and we have been following Aspen's trajectory like a runaway locomotive on Donner Pass.
There is a fine low-budget movie called “Teton Skiing – Legends of the Fall Line” if you are interested in learning more about the history of
Teton skiing. It is not the same as the movie "Fall Line"
but both of these topics get covered in
Lou Dawson's review of the movie on his wildsnow blog
(read the comments).
“It’s not bragging if you can back it up.” Muhammad Ali
Free-Soloing by the OS's Double Chimney
Just because ice or snow still sits on the route you wish to climb doesn't mean that there aren't plenty of secure dry holds and t-shirt temperatures.
It's unlikely that a broadcast from Garnet Canyon will reach GTNP
personnel during an emergency. You might reach a pilot with an aviation
radio or the Driggs Airport's
CTAF channel
from the Lower Saddle. Or a climbing guide in Garnet Canyon with a
ham/business radio. In 2012, a hiker used a marine radio to
call for help from Waterfalls Canyon, so you never know.
For the most part, two-way radios are best used for communications
between members of a climbing party. It is easy to lose sight of your
alpine partners and/or lose the ability to clearly communicate while
climbing. Assuming you don't mind schlepping them up the Grand,
they may come in handy. Most climbers go without.
For winter skiers with a
BCA radio:
Channel 2.2: inter-group talk. Channel 2.1: Teton Pass Ambassadors
skiers. Channel 9.11: TCSAR during rescues. More
info here.
If you're wondering where frontcountry bears are hanging out, tune in to
the park's dispatch channel: 171.675. They handle the radio
traffic for bear jams.
Jackson Hole Airport (JAC)
Control Tower: 118.075
JAC Ground: 124.550
JAC
CTAF: 118.075
JAC
UNICOM:
122.95
Driggs Airport has no tower:
CTAF/UNICOM: 122.7
155.22, Tx/Rx Tone 100.0
151.1975, Tx/Rx Tone 127.3
Many agencies use....
they can be found online
GTNP DIR: Tx/Rx 171.675
GTNP PRI: Tx 164.95 - Rx 171.675
GTNP SAR: Tx/Rx 172.425 Tone 123.0
155.415
TC Fire
155.715
155.340
~ Guide Services ~
AMGA: tx/rx 151.625 Tone –
151.4
JHMG: tx/rx 151.880 Tone – 151.4
Exum : tx/rx
151.940 Tone – 151.4
~ Weather ~
NOAA
Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NOAA Yellowstone Weather Radio: 162.45
Driggs, Idaho Weather Radio 162.450
Weather: 162.400 - 162.550 MHz
~ Frequency Ranges & Distress Ch.~
Aviation
118.000 - 136.975 MHz
Marine: 156 - 162.025 MHz
International Distress: 406 MHz
Marine Distress Channel: 156.8
Aviation Distress Channel: 121.5
Speaking of the airport....
UNMANNED AIRCRAFT
Launching, landing or operating an
unmanned aircraft, such as a
drone, within
Grand Teton National Park is prohibited.
See the
Laws & Policies of GTNP
~ Teton Climbing Links ~
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to
the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great
mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is
always being written, of course. Pass it along.
NOLS Thirty Days to Survival
~ The Grand Traverse ~
The Grand Traverse
(VI 5.8) is a traverse of the Tetons’ central peaks which include Teewinot
Mountain, Peak 11,840'+, East Prong, Mount Owen, Grand Teton,
Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Gilkey Tower, Spalding
Peak, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce. It starts and ends at the
Lupine Meadows trailhead. Peak 11,840' and the East Prong are sometimes left
out of the bagged peaks. We are not aware of any of the climbers
providing unimpeachable proof of their record times on the Grand
Traverse but the times seem reasonable. The
fastest known times
are shown below.
Rolando Garibotti
6:49
Alex Lowe
8:15 - depending on the source.
~ FKT Records for Women ~
Julia Niles
had a nice free-solo in about 16 hrs
Note: Rolando & Kim ran together on Kim's record time. Janelle ran with her husband, Mark, in 2017. Julia ran 6 months after getting her left lung removed.
Alpinist Magazine
has the total distance at 17.9 miles. An
Outside Magazine story
has a total elevation change over 20,000 feet. Take all those
numbers with
a grain of salt. The guidebook says 25,000 feet of elevation gain and loss, and a total distance of 18.6 miles, much of it on trails and scrambling.
Rumor has it that the summit to the Lower Saddle was once clocked
in 12 minutes by Rolo Garibotti. We're not sure that his feet
touched the ground at that speed but that remarkable (almost unbelievable, or unbelievable) time was once reported in the now defunct
outerlocal.com website as true.
Allen Steck, Dick Long, and John Evans completed the first Grand Traverse on August 12, 1963 by going from south to north (Nez Perce to Teewinot) in 20 hours and 30 minutes. Mike Brewer & Dick Pownall attempted the route in 1950 by starting at Nez Perce (AAC 1951 Publication & Grand Teton's 1950 summit register). Jim McCarthy and Lito Tejada-Flores were the first to try the traverse from Teewinot to Nez Perce back in August of 1966 (17–19th).
Allen Steck, Dick Long, and John Evans completed the first Grand Traverse on August 12, 1963 by going from south to north (Nez Perce to Teewinot) in 20 hours and 30 minutes. Mike Brewer & Dick Pownall attempted the route in 1950 by starting at Nez Perce (AAC 1951 Publication & Grand Teton's 1950 summit register). Jim McCarthy and Lito Tejada-Flores were the first to try the traverse from Teewinot to Nez Perce back in August of 1966 (17–19th).
"I hated every minute of training, but I said, ‘Don’t quit. Suffer now and live the rest of your life as a champion.'" Muhammad Ali
~ 2016 Grand Traverse FKT
~
On August 16th, 2016, Canadian runner & climber
Nick Elson, 32, broke the 16-year-old speed record
for the
Grand Traverse
by nailing a time of 6:30:49.
NICK: "I set off just after 6am and reached the summit of Teewinot in
1:23. I reached the summit of the Grand in 3:18, soloing
carefully on the Italian Cracks. It was great to pass Mark
@smileysproject here guiding the traverse as he
had also helped me out with some great local knowledge.
I'm a fairly cautious person and I like to think that I kept the risk at a reasonable level, but as I jogged across the "catwalk" while eating a gel I did manage to elicit a plea of "please don't die" from a member of one of the nearby roped teams.
From the lower saddle, I was able to make good time. I think that having rambled around in the mountains since childhood has made me pretty comfortable on the type of 3rd and 4th class terrain that is prevalent on the traverse.
I arrived at the summit of Middle in 4:01 and Nez Perce in 5:31. I made my only route finding mistake descending, but before long was kicking off some impressive rock slides going down to the meadows. When I finally hit the smooth trail, I tripped and fell flat on my face. From there I ran down the trail and mostly avoided hip-checking any hikers. I finished in a time of 6:30:49." Nick Elson
I'm a fairly cautious person and I like to think that I kept the risk at a reasonable level, but as I jogged across the "catwalk" while eating a gel I did manage to elicit a plea of "please don't die" from a member of one of the nearby roped teams.
From the lower saddle, I was able to make good time. I think that having rambled around in the mountains since childhood has made me pretty comfortable on the type of 3rd and 4th class terrain that is prevalent on the traverse.
I arrived at the summit of Middle in 4:01 and Nez Perce in 5:31. I made my only route finding mistake descending, but before long was kicking off some impressive rock slides going down to the meadows. When I finally hit the smooth trail, I tripped and fell flat on my face. From there I ran down the trail and mostly avoided hip-checking any hikers. I finished in a time of 6:30:49." Nick Elson
Also in 2016: Over the course of three days in August,
70-year-old Lee Sheftel
of Carbondale, Colorado, completed the Grand Traverse with partner
Greg Collins.
~
The Grand Teton Triathlon
~
AKA The Picnic
The
GTT
(AKA: The Picnic) involves biking from
Jackson's Town Square
to
Jenny Lake in GTNP, swimming from the
Jenny Lake Overlook on the eastern shoreline
to the
western shoreline, taking the Jenny Lake Trail to the
Lupine Meadows Trailhead,
cruising
to the
top of the Grand Teton
and then doing the whole thing in reverse for a total of 42 miles of
biking, 2.6 miles of
open water swimming, and 20 miles of hiking and climbing. This is not a sanctioned
race with a set date. It's more like an
FKT
event to test yourself or an all-day picnic with lots of exercise. Mountaineer
David Gonzales
started the picnic. He also wrote a book about
Jackson.
~ Why free-solo the Grand Teton ~
You can sleep in. You can climb on any day you want. You (well, not everyone) can easily make a round-trip in single day. You can go at your own
pace and enjoy some solitude. You can travel further and stay stronger
when you're carrying less weight. You can quickly move past other
climbers. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped
climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit. You can skip the
expensive gear. You can skip the expensive guide. There's a freedom
that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers.
It's a far more enjoyable experience for many. Older, injured, or
physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or tolerate extended days in the backcountry. You may not have the time for multi-day climbing
activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is
often an advantage when the weather window is short. You might recover
more quickly. You're more likely to have the summit to yourself if
you're not tied to a fixed schedule like other climbers. It's unlikely
that free-soloing climbers are delaying other climbers in a
significant way and that helps keep all climbers moving in a timely
manner. And, lastly, you will have a smaller environmental impact in
the backcountry if you're just out for the day.
To quote
Anton Krupicka: "It’s about, of course, having fun, covering a wide variety of
ground efficiently, emphasizing the movement and the activity, and,
perhaps, most alluringly, thinking outside the box and bringing
creativity and a bit of a rule-bending to one’s passions."
Free-soloing has its inherent dangers as does any activity but it's
relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking
obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather, terrain traps, and poor
conditions.
The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes
and don't mind spending some money might be buying or renting
a pair of climbing shoes. We solo in just about
any type of outdoor shoe
but a good pair of comfortable sticky climbing shoes will
boost your confidence & safety on the rock. You don't need super
sticky big wall climbing shoes, just shoes with some sticky rubber
such as
approach shoes made for climbing
or
mountain biking shoes with sticky rubber. A few backcountry trail running shoes also work fine. We feel
that sticky shoes that edge well are better than those that mostly
focus on
smearing. These are easy climbing routes. The wrong shoes will ruin a trip so if your clunky work boots
keep your feet happy on mountain hikes 16 miles long, you might prefer
those over something else. Some climbers will take both approach
shoes and more aggressive lightweight climbing shoes but this is
almost never done by free-soloing climbers on these two routes.
Choose wisely given the objective.
~ Local Climbing Shops ~
...sells & rents gear
Skinny Skis -
(Google)
...clothes, packs, some gear
In Powderhorn Mall
By the Downtown Post Office
...mostly clothes, packs, hunting gear
...rents climbing & BC gear
------------
~ A few WW trip reports ~
April through October
April through October
July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation
Overview - Upper Exum
Overview - Owen-Spalding
Detailed Look At Specific Route Features
~~~~~~~~~~
Area Webcams
~~~~~~~~~~~~
We would like to thank everyone who tolerated our photography, who climbed with us, and who help make this mountain more accessible to those who carry the dream to climb it.
The
above photo
was captured from the top of Table Mountain on the western side of the
Tetons by Hayden Expedition
photographer William H. Jackson
in August of 1872.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Our climbing images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit purposes.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
We would like to thank everyone who tolerated our photography, who climbed with us, and who help make this mountain more accessible to those who carry the dream to climb it.
Enjoy Safe Climbing