The Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding Route


The Owen-Spalding Climb
~ Lower Saddle to Summit ~



This is the quickest, safest, and easiest climb on the Grand Teton when the route is dry and the weather is perfect. Under those conditions it is a suitable objective for many athletes who wish to climb this mountain without a rope in a single day. Previous climbing experience is not a prerequisite before undertaking this adventure but it isn't for everybody. It demands agility, finesse and constant vigilance.
 
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers believe that "climbers should not attempt a one-day ascent of the Grand Teton without prior experience on this LARGE mountain and familiarity with technical ascents in the Teton Range" and they warn that "soloists have been injured or killed attempting these routes." 

The second party to summit the Grand Teton (2nd verified party) had no knowledge of the area, no similar climbing experience, and no gear. They free-soloed the Owen-Spalding route in a single day back when there was no climbers' trail, no guidebook, and no internet. Quin Blackburn, Dave DeLap, and Andy DePirro did that in 1923. It stands to reason that more than a few people can follow in their footsteps with the resources available today. Indeed, many do. As Renny Jackson says in his Guide to the Teton Range, soloing in a day is "commonplace during the summer when the route is dry". 

 
Exum's take on who can climb the Grand Teton

 
Free-soloing this route under mixed conditions is not recommended for most climbers. The difficulty & danger increases as does the time needed to get up and down the mountain. Of course, a little bit of snow, ice, or wet rock is pretty common and some climbers can recognize and manage those hazards. Taking on the additional challenge to free-solo under passable mixed conditions is a decision best left for yourself. Professional guides have misjudged hazards and died on this mountain so don't make the decision lightly.
 
We don't want to understate or overstate the challenges and risks associated with soloing the Grand Teton. It's obvious that alpine climbing has inherent risk with or without a rope. Some of it can be mitigated; and some, not so much.

The Owen-Spalding route has been climbed by blind people, 6-year-olds, 70-year-olds, people missing an arm or leg, adults with Down's syndrome, and out-of-shape flatlanders with no climbing experience whatsoever. Most are guided by friends or the park's climbing concessionaires. And most of the referenced people should never free solo; however, seemingly unremarkable people have accomplish extraordinary things throughout the history of the Teton Range.

It's impossible for us to know how difficult the climb will be for you, how well you will manage the hazards, or how elastic your comfort zone will be. And nothing we say can convey the experience quite like being there in person. YouTube helps.


Geraldine Lucas


In 1924, Geraldine Lucas became the second woman to reach the summit, and first local woman to do so. She was 58 (or 59) and woefully out of shape. Only six visits to the summit had taken place before her arrival. Paul Petzoldt (16), everyone's guide, is sitting in the photo. The other men are Ike Powell, Allen Budge and Jack Crawford. For some reason, Allen Budge is missing from the August summit register. Allen said of the experience, "I never lost anything up there and... never wanted to go back". This was Paul's third trip up the Grand in less than a month. He was the first person to start guiding people up the Grand.

You'll walk by Geraldine's old homestead if you use the Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead instead of the Lupine Meadows' trailhead. Upon her death in 1938, her ashes were buried in a large boulder and sealed with a plaque. The impossible-to-miss boulder is alongside the trail. You'll also see her name carved into the rock that she's standing on if you reach the summit. The rock also holds the survey monument. Descendants of the Lucas family still live in Jackson Hole.

Obviously, there is nothing wrong with camping overnight or using protection. Many climbers make it a one-day trip using protection. And you can certainly hire a guide if you have the money. Besides Exum, the other climbing concessionaire in GTNP is Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. No matter the itinerary, it's a demanding undertaking and a long day for most climbers. Not all athletes can get up and down this mountain, and not all non-athletes are excluded from joining the ranks of those who can.

If you're looking for bubble-wrapped adventures, visit Six Flags Magic Mountain.


Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding Climbing Route
 

There's less than 300 feet of climbing that might test your natural abilities. Some of that climbing goes by a large drop-off. It causes more than a few people to reconsider their plans. The Owen-Spalding is considered to be a Class 5.4 climb on the YDS scale of difficulty when dry, "Suitable for beginners". 
 
"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" has the class rating at 5.5 for the Owen-Spalding's Double Chimney section—most likely for the 1st Entrance variation which can be bypassed when dry by heading for the 2nd Entrance as seen above. The guidebook still has the route at 5.4. We won't pretend to know what's going through the author's mind when it comes to difficulty ratings. Mountain Project also has the Owen-Spalding route at 5.4.

For the record, people often shorten the name of the Owen-Spalding route to the "OS", saying the "O" "S" route when speaking.


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Conditions
 
 
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers occasionally provide reports on conditions through their Teton Climbing blog. Those reports are often outdated during the summer climbing season. GTNP does have two climbing concessionaires on the Grand Teton every day during the summer but it rarely utilizes those resources for more timely updates. We encourage climbers who are concerned about conditions to do themselves a favor and keep an eye on the weather leading up to a climb. Additional information on conditions is usually available online but even that is often unreliable or misleading.
 
 
 
 
Summer conditions & information: 307-739-3343

Winter/Off-Season conditions & information: 307-739-3309

 
If you're in town, you can stop by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station during the summer for details about routes, conditions, challenges, and to obtain camping permits. The ranger station is open 8am to 5pm daily from early June to early September. The operating dates change yearly. The rangers also have a hut at the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle during the summer so you might see them there. 
 
More beta about conditions might be found at AAC's Climber's Ranch in GTNP, at our locally-owned Teton Mountaineering shop, or at the Lupine Meadows trailhead during the summer. Other resources might include social media such as Instagram, the Teton County recreation center's new climbing gym, the local Black Diamond store, the REI store, and the Teton Climbers’ Coalition. You will certainly cross paths with descending climbers coming off the Grand while on your way into Garnet Canyon during daylight hours. Hundreds of climbers live in the valley. Ask around. Quite often, it can be very difficult to contact the Jenny Lake ranger station over the phone or get accurate information on conditions from the ranger station. 
 
 
Best Time To Climb


The best days for free-soloing under dry conditions usually arrive between mid-July and mid-to-late August. Every year is different. New snow or ice can cover the mountain at any time but we usually have many days of outstanding weather and dry conditions in July and August.

An early start is recommended to avoid the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms which are often omitted from a morning forecast. Many are highly localized afternoon thunderstorms that pass by quickly. The "average" July & August may have 13 or so thunderstorms apiece but it's a meaningless number for any particular two month period.

For example, in 2022, we had one of the driest Julys on record but August rushed in with one of the wettest starts in history. In 2015, it was hard to find a summer raindrop that impacted climbers — except for one notable storm which encased the mountain in snow and ice on August 9th. In July of 1993, 6 feet of snow fell at the Lower Saddle and it was the coldest & wettest summer on record. Great for the glaciers, not so much for climbers.

In June, you'll find snow on the approach and ice on the climb. And icy-snow above 9000 feet. Snow conditions are changing throughout the day and might resemble a 7-Eleven Slurpee once the sun cooks it.. Rockfall hazards increase with June's freeze & thaw cycles. Flushing in couloirs is common. Snow slabs slide down faces. Water undercuts snow, forming unstable snow bridges. Moats and voids open up in the snowpack. At times, June's conditions can be more hazardous than April's. Accidents due to snow and ice hazards are common in the Tetons. Hardly a year goes by without one or more deaths involving backcountry snow travel. Mostly skiers, climbers and snowmobilers.

The steeper wind-blown faces and ridgelines might be easier to manage than the approach in June, especially south-facing aspects.  The great ski mountaineering film Fall Line shows some typical Teton conditions in June.


 
While intermittent periods of great weather and conditions can appear throughout September and October, the odds favor mixed conditions and colder weather. If precipitation falls, it will fall as snow or graupel at upper elevations on the majority of September evenings. And sometimes during the day. Below freezing temperatures are common at the valley floor as we roll through September. The west facing (W-NW facing) Owen-Spalding route spends less time in the sun during the fall due to the shorter days and changing sun angles. Many nooks and crannies never see the sun and everything takes longer to clean up after storms if it does clean up.
 
It's not just precipitation that can cause problems. With below freezing temperatures, it's possible that moist air freezes to rock and turns everything into an icy mess. Sometimes quickly. When supercooled water droplets are freezing on contact with a sub-freezing surface, they are creating rime ice. Hoar frost is also common in the Tetons and it can have a similar appearance to 'soft' rime ice. It occurs when water VAPOR directly crystalizes on surfaces (deposition). The moisture in the air skips the droplet stage. Also, please keep in mind that wet rock is a safety hazard. It doesn't need to be icy.
 
To be clear, summer and fall climbing conditions can be swinging from horrible to passable over the course of two hours, two days or two weeks. Sometimes September sucks for climbing but October wanders in with nice temperatures and conditions.

Of course, some climbers only care about conditions so as to bring the appropriate gear. It's alpine mountaineering and this mountain gets climbed year-round. And soloed year-round.
 
 
Weather


LOWER SADDLE

 JXN/GTNP
 
 
A forecast is good for about 6 hours. Even within 6 hours, it's of questionable value for the Tetons. It's very difficult to nail down an accurate forecast for the Grand Teton if there's any instability in the air. No forecaster has a handle on Teton weather unless there's a big, stable, high-pressure system parked over the region and we're in its center. Or there's a massive storm system slamming the Northern Rockies. Basically, never trust a forecast. Be prepared to read the weather as you travel.

To point out how easy it is to trip up professional forecasters, Jackson's local meteorologist Jim Woodmencey—also a former GTNP climbing ranger and owner/operator of mountainweather.com—was unable to accurately forecast the weather for the big solar eclipse that crossed the valley. It was a nice sunny day—except for the moon hiding the sun. BTW, his website is a great resource for weather information but it isn't always maintained. His forecast is pulled from the National Weather Service so don't expect a better forecast.
 
Highly localized mountain thunderstorms can develop quickly and unexpectedly. A tiny change in the jet stream can sideswipe the Tetons with cold, wet weather. Warm sunshine can blanket the town of Jackson while the Grand is hammered by snow. If there is the slightest instability in the forecast, then the forecast is saying: ANYTHING could happen in the mountains. Might be a great day for climbing. Thunderstorms are more likely after 3 pm but most climbers aim to get off the mountain way before then if there is any instability in the atmosphere.

Average Weather At The Valley Floor
Average Weather At The Valley Floor

In the graphic above, it indicates that September experiences 16 days below freezing at the valley floor on average. And the average low temperature is 32 degrees. In the graphic below for the 11,600 foot Lower Saddle, it looks like only 6 or 7 days dipped below freezing in September of 2018.

Grand Teton's Lower Saddle Temps 2018 (11,600 ft)


In 2022, the highest two temperature readings at the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle arrived on September 4 & 8, (63°F & 62°F). And good conditions were found into October. This is not common. Once again, it illustrates that the weather and conditions can vary greatly from year to year, at any time of year and averages mean little for any particular summer climbing season.


Lower Saddle Wind 2018




As seen above, temperature swings at the Lower Saddle are fairly mild compared to those at the valley floor during the summer. Temperature inversions during the summer are typically limited to overnight or early-morning hours. Summer inversions rarely have large temperature spreads. During the winter, inversions are common and can reach a 40°F difference on extreme days. Another thing to notice with the graphic is that the average overnight temperature at the valley floor is pretty close to the average daytime temperature at the saddle on this day.

The above graphic also illustrates that two locations with a 5,000' elevation difference can have the same temperature. There might be little to no temperature difference between the saddle and the summit despite a 2,175' difference in elevation. This seems highly unlikely during summer daylight hours on a clear day.

Many factors can influence temperature differences between two elevations. The lapse rate is commonly used to calculate those differences. Both dry and moist adiabatic conditions have an impact on the lapse rate so it isn't always easy to estimate temperature changes with elevation.

If temps are getting cooler with elevation, we consider 12°F to be the worst-case temperature difference between the Lower Saddle and the summit under clear, dry skies (ignoring wind chill). The accuracy of the Lower Saddle's temperature readings are not known, nor is an exact lapse rate, so we give ourselves some wiggle room on the worst-case scenario. It's unlikely you'll find a 14°F difference if the weather station is properly calibrated. An average of 8°F was the difference used by the National Weather Service back when they provided a forecast for both the saddle and the summit. That never changed even if the weather did. We have recorded a 12°F difference on a clear morning but we don't know how accurate our thermometer was—or the station's.
 
In 2023, the saddle's wind-direction equipment was miscalibrated. And the National Weather Service over in Riverton, WY, revealed that the accuracy of the Jackson Hole Airport's weather station data was in doubt for quite some time. Other stations around the valley have some suspect numbers so take all weather station data with a grain of salt.

A quick look at the Lower Saddle's weather station can help you estimate the chances of an icy climb after a passing storm. There are many summer nights above 45°F at the saddle but it's not unusual for uppermost elevations to be within a few degrees of freezing. Keep in mind that temperature readings and forecast temperatures are presented as shaded temperatures. Direct sunlight will be warmer. Sometimes thin ice cleans up quickly once the sun rises and the air warms. The Owen-Spalding is well shaded for most of the morning so ice tends to stick around longer.



 Wildfires
 
 
You're more likely to encounter wildfire smoke as we enter August. In 2021, wildfire smoke arrived in the Tetons by mid-July and stayed around all summer. In 2022, smoke wasn't much of an issue. You can track wildfire smoke on most satellite images. Here's a look at Active Fires & Smoke Plumes. Forecast models for smoke are available from many sources including the National Weather Service's Air Quality interface and NOAA's HRRR Smoke Map. Or get a forecast for the jet stream. It is very rare to have a smoke-free summer in the Tetons.


Sat Images from GOES
(some GOES updates are 5 min apart)
 
 
Emergency Information

 
(307) 739-3301 - GTNP Emergency Dispatch

 
GTNP's Emergency Dispatch Center (Teton Interagency Dispatch Center) is open 24 hours a day during the summer season (usually June 1 - Sept 30). For time-critical, life-threatening emergencies, you might be better off calling the park's dispatch center instead of contacting 911 for search & rescue operations in the park.
 
Once the summer season dies down, the dispatch center is usually open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. You can call them to confirm operating hours during your visit: (307) 739-3301

911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID
 
911 calls & text messages go to the Teton County Sheriff's Office. Calls to the Sheriff's Office get transferred to GTNP if they are open for business. 911 calls within sight of Idaho might get sent to Teton County, Idaho.
 
Sometimes a text message will get through to emergency services when a voice call will not. Texting 911 is also advised if your phone's battery has been severely drained. Text messages do not include location coordinates like emergency voice calls so be sure to include location information in any messages (detailed place name or GPS coordinates).
 
 
 Information needed by the rescue team includes
 
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any).


The Teton County Backcountry SOS App will drop a GPS location into an emergency text message if your phone's GPS is on. A phone's GPS will consume battery power so turn it off if it isn't needed. 
 
 
Summer  Camping
 

Summer backcountry camping permits can be reserved online starting in January. First-come, first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer and they are usually in high demand. All backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station during the summer high season. Garnet Canyon has special regulations for backcountry campers. Our Jackson Hole Camping Guide covers some additional camping options if you are unable to secure camping options in the park. For information on Winter Backcountry Camping Permits call 307-739-3309 M-F (307-739-3301 Sat & Sun).
 

 
The Summer Approach


Just to be clear, let's repeat a few things. Inexperienced mountaineers who wish to summit in a day without using protection are strongly encouraged to wait for the driest conditions possible and perfect weather. Optimal conditions for free-soloing may not arrive until late July or early August. Just depends on the weather. Sometimes it's early July. No one knows how long it will take you to complete a round-trip on the Grand Teton. The fastest round-trip time is under 3 hours. It might take you 24 hours. The round-trip covers around 15 miles with a 7000 foot elevation gain. Renny Jackson says the Lower Saddle is 7.5 miles from the trailhead in his guidebook. Not sure we trust that number. If true, that puts the round-trip to the summit and back closer to 16 miles. The exact distance hasn't been measured with a survey-grade GPS so the actual distance you travel is unknown.

There is only a short introduction to the approach on this page. Our webpage that covers the approach to the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle goes into greater detail. 

 
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Water sources & camping zones along the climbers' trail.

 

Water is found in many places along the trail. The trail crosses the source of spring water feeding Spalding Falls just as you reach the top of the cliff that is part of the Meadows' Headwall. You'll be near the Caves Camping Zone. See above. It's a good place to take a break if you need one. Most people drink the water unfiltered. We've never had a problem. Spalding Falls is one of several arteries feeding Garnet Creek. Unfortunately, water quality in the creek has declined with increasing activity in Garnet Canyon. We won't drink the creek's water below the falls unless its been filtered.

Split Times

 
Assuming you're trying to go fast & light, and can, it's about a half hour to 1st junction from the Lupine Meadows' trailhead if you're walking quickly (not running). The second junction adds another half hour from the first junction. And it's another half hour to the Meadows Camping Zone inside Garnet Canyon if you maintain speed. That's 1.5 hours in total. From there, it's about an hour to reach the Lower Saddle (2.5 hrs total) if you're still moving at a good pace. Very few people will be moving quickly. The average person can take many hours to reach the Lower Saddle from the trailhead. Most people are not free-soloing, or on a fast & light round-trip. The fastest runners reach the Grand's summit from the trailhead in under 2 hours. Local athletes regularly reach the summit in under 3.5 hours from the trailhead. In 2017, Ryan Burke, 35, made three 6-hour round-trips of the Grand Teton back-to-back. He actually completed the three summits in 17 hours, 54 minutes. Some settle for two. Meredith Edwards made two back-to-back round-trips up the Grand in about 16 hours just before Ryan's threesome.

The extra weight that many climbers carry can easily double or triple their time to reach the Lower Saddle, especially for those with questionable fitness. Many of the climbers who are hauling gear and out for a one-day round-trip start well before daybreak from the trailhead (midnight to 2 a.m. is common). Many guides leave the Lower Saddle at 4 a.m—sometimes on a bone-chilling ascent. This is done for several reasons but the two big ones are to avoid crowds and any afternoon weather. Soloing parties who are moving quickly might leave the trailhead at daybreak or later if the forecast is nice.
 
Make sure you have the supplies necessary for a safe trip before venturing to the trailhead. Headlamp with fresh batteries? Water? Toiletries? Proper clothing, especially shoes? Food? Charged phone? First Aid? Helmet? Gloves? Hiking poles? Whatever. On really nice days, everything we need fits in our pockets or a very small pack (fanny size). Fast and light is the objective. Every unnecessary ounce is a burden but we like hiking poles. If you're unsure about your abilities, it's better to play it safe and take some extra supplies for unexpected delays.
 
Free-soloing runners (the select few) carry next to nothing and wear clothing totally unsuitable for most climbers. Runners might also start later and experience very comfortable temperatures. Warmer temperatures will increase hydration needs for the average soloing climber, as will running.


Approach to the Lower Saddle - a very accurate rendition of the trail for the most part.
All Garnet Canyon Data from GAIA GPS
(best viewed on a desktop/laptop computer)

 
This GPS data has the distance to the Lower Saddle at under 6.5 miles. About 1 mile less than the Guidebook number. Most smart phones and watches won't capture the actual distance because they miss many small twists and turns in the trail especially if someone is moving quickly. And they simply lack the accuracy of professional gear.

While you don't need a GPS to make it up the Grand Teton, it's good to examine a map. We do run into climbers every year who took the wrong turn at a well-marked junction. Pay attention and you'll be fine. Be wary of letting partners run ahead or lag behind (or separate). Almost every year this doesn't work out well for one of the party members.


Approach above 9000 feet.

4.1 Miles to the Platforms. Maybe 5.25 miles to the Caves.


The dry summer trail to the Lower Saddle is mostly well defined and easy to navigate. It does completely disappear for over 100 feet at two locations filled with large boulders. They are commonly referred to as the 1st & 2nd Boulder Field, AKA: Platforms Boulder Field & Morainal Boulder Field (see locations above). Almost the entirety of Garnet Canyon is a giant boulder & talus field with the trail running through it but some areas are more bouldery than others. The park regularly maintains the original trail to the 1st Boulder Field. Above that, the trail sees only occasional maintenance which is mostly limited to the trail below the Petzoldt Caves Camping Zone, AKA Caves Camping Zone by Spalding Falls.
 
The trail disappears in an insignificant way for a short distance in several locations before you reach the Meadows Camping Zone. Usually, the trail continues just in front of you. Take the path of least resistance. You are always on the north side of the creek inside Garnet Canyon as you approach the Meadows. And you are close to the creek. You may get off trail but you won't get lost getting to the Meadows.
 
Traveling under darkness might be a slightly bigger challenge inside Garnet Canyon if you're not familiar with the approach to the Lower Saddle.  People do lose the summer trail so we can't say it's a foolproof approach under darkness.
 
You may see a few side trails inside Garnet Canyon especially as you near the top of Spalding Falls. Some spurs go to camping spots. Some are shortcuts. Some go to climbing areas. Others are used to avoid early-season snow. The Park Service would like everyone to stay on well-traveled paths whenever possible, or stay on rocky surfaces and not vegetation if you must go off-trail.


A snowy Garnet Canyon
Click to Enlarge


When snow covers the canyon's floor, climbers typically ascend the Meadows' Headwall closer to the Middle Teton's NE aspect. They usually avoid the summer trail by Spalding Falls. Climbers have died on a snowy approach. Respect the snow. Do not underestimate the threat. More information on snow travel can be found on our page covering the approach.
 
Parts of the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle can be seen from a few areas as you approach the Meadows Camping Zone but the Lower Saddle mostly hides behind the Meadows' Headwall.


June approach above 10,000 ft @ Moraines


Climbers use a bootpack to gain the top of the Lower Saddle as we enter the summer season, and sometimes well into the summer season. One summer the bootpack was used into the first half of August. The blue dots show the approximate location of the guide's bootpack. Some people hike directly up and down the headwall when it's easy to do so. While snow travel adds extra hazards it can also speed up round-trips under the right conditions. All the more so if you're on skis (usually springtime).

As the snow melts off, the dry summer trail takes you to a rope that is permanently affixed to the saddle's headwall. The rope is handy under poor conditions. Usually, the fixed rope starts seeing action by mid-July. As always, just depends on the weather.
 
Guides belay clients at the fixed rope so you might be slightly delayed. If you struggle in any way with the climbing at the fixed rope then free-soloing is not for you. You can contact the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers to find out if the approach is free of snow or if the fixed rope is being used.


Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope
 
 
This is a rockfall zone. Stay alert and avoid being in the line of fire. Never travel directly above the Fixed Rope to the west or northwest during the summer due to the high probability of causing rockfall on climbers below you. In some locations the rock is too unstable to remain in place no matter how carefully you move. Small landslides have taken place by the fixed rope and natural rockfall has injured climbers at the headwall. The fixed rope drapes over a drainage. Wet rock sticks around after a storm.

Upon leaving the fixed rope, climbers follow a path toward the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle. They travel to the toe of the Middle Teton as it sits on the saddle and end up by the most southeastern camping site.
 

 Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope - Rockfall Zone
 
 
View from the Lower Saddle toward the Grand's Upper Saddle


The sign encourages you to stay off the saddle's vegetation. FYI: We climb throughout the year so our snowy pictures are not a depiction of typical summer conditions. 
 
To the southeast of the sign is a constant trickle of water in a very shallow drainage at the toe of the Middle Teton's north-facing slope (where the ground meets larger boulders). Its flow varies with the weather and time of day. A section of garden hose is used to collect and direct water into containers. Just to the north of the drainage is a large seepage area.
 
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ENOUGH WATER BEFORE LEAVING THE LOWER SADDLE FOR THE SUMMIT.

It is possible for the saddle's water source dry up or freeze over (typically in September). It can spring back to life with the changing weather. It might also be buried under snow but still flowing. You can get water from the Middle Teton Glacier if water disappears at the saddle. Sometimes you can find running water between the Lower and Upper Saddles but don't count on it.


 Location of the water hose


Many climbers are starting to feel the effects of the altitude and exhaustion as they gain the 11,600' Lower Saddle. It's a good place to take a break. Altitude sickness is a common safety hazard for many. Think twice about ignoring it. And be well hydrated but not over hydrated.

If you need to piss in the wind, please do so on the western side of the saddle. This is actually a request from the park service. There is a "rest stop" on the western side for privacy. It is a wooden structure with an open top. It is not a functioning toilet. You are required to pack out human waste from the saddle using WAG bags, etc.


Lower Saddle's "rest stop"


There is also a gear hanger on the western side of the saddle should you wish to drop some weight. A bear box is available to store food from critters like marmots and pikas. Sometimes chipmunks. Ravens are a common sight, sometimes an invasion of butterflies. It's rare to see bears and foxes at the saddle but they have made visits. It is also rare to see bighorn sheep and mountain goats but the saddle has been a part of their home range (mountain goats are considered non-native and the park has culled them). It's illegal to feed any wildlife in the park.

Two huts are assembled at the saddle every season. One hut is utilized by backcountry rangers as mentioned earlier. The other hut is used by Exum Mountain Guides. A third hut—used by the JH Mountain Guides—sits above the trail to the Morainal Camping Zone. Look toward the east face of the Grand Teton by Teepe Pillar.
 
Many people get cellular service at the saddle & above it. Once again, the Lower Saddle's weather station data can be accessed with a smartphone if you want to check wind speeds or temperatures. Saddle temperatures can stay in the 50's on the warmest summer nights. On the coldest summer nights, temperatures dip below freezing and it can snow at the saddle. It has a well-earned reputation for strong winds. On a clear, dark night, the sky is spectacular.

There are several small caves on the western aspect of the saddle - most are just north of the "rest stop". They are not safe locations during thunderstorms. 
 

The Owen-Spalding Climb



 Overview of southern ridges, towers, etc 


CLICK TO ENLARGE

Keep in mind that conditions may force you to alter your line of travel into more difficult (or, by comparison, safer/easier) terrain. 
 

View from the Lower Saddle toward the Central Rib


The drainage to the left of the Lower Western Rib is the Dartmouth Couloir; however, that most-western couloir is more commonly called the Idaho Express. The main central couloir is the Owen-Spalding Couloir. And the drainage to the east of the Central Rib is the Wall Street Couloir. Other names have been used but we favor these as does the local guidebook.
 
You're headed for the Central Rib's Needle which is on the north side of the saddle. The Black Dike is shown at the very bottom of the above picture. It runs a good distance across the mountain. The scrambling begins once you pass the Black Dike. You may see hiking poles by the dike, the Fixed Rope, or elsewhere around the Lower Saddle. Leave all hiking poles where you find them. They are not abandoned, just set aside temporarily. The dike is made of black diabase formed from molten material filling voids. The same type of dike as seen on the Middle Teton and Mt Moran.




The hiking path to the Black Dike actually splits into two main paths which rejoin above the Black Dike. Just before you reach the Black Dike you might see an eastern spur leading to the Lower Exum Ridge, Petzoldt Ridge, etc. It's part of the Black Dike Traverse. You're not headed there. There is also a traverse off the saddle that wraps around the western aspect of the Enclosure's SW ridge. It's the Valhalla Traverse (often sketchy). It's has fallen in popularity, in part due to conditions—both its and climbers' objectives. It was never a trade route.


The view between the Lower (11,600ft) & Upper Saddle (13,200)

 
The drainage on the eastern side of the Upper Western Rib was a common line of travel when the mountain saw fewer climbers. Nowadays, the main drainage sees weekly rockfall events caused by other climbers. Bowling alley is the favored description. Having said that....

If you're an extreme mountaineering runner then you might be considering a run up a drainage. If none is around, and the timing is right, so be it. However, you're likely to cause rockfall if you're moving fast so don't make the rash decision to ascend a drainage if people are in a rockfall path below you. Most people avoid the drainages.
 
There's no great time advantage to using the narrow hourglass section of the drainage between the Upper Western Rib and the Central Rib's Bench for the average climber. In addition to being a terrain trap for rockfall, that area is prone to poor conditions. We have seen close calls with rockfall in the drainage.
 
The most western drainage on the western side of the Western Rib is the slowest way to the Upper Saddle. Bootpacks up drainages are sometimes useful when encountering stable winter/spring snow.
  
AGAIN, TO BE CLEAR: Most climbers should stay out of the drainages whenever possible. Crossing them is common.


Head for the Central Rib's Bench
(not to scale)


The above image provides a look at the two most common variations to access the Central Rib's Bench
 
1) the Eye of the Needle via the Chockstone Chimney variation
 
2) the Briggs' Slab variation. 
 
There are many variations to gain the bench. The Briggs' slab variation is the most common guided variation. The slab is easy to get to and it's easy for guides to quickly belay clients across the slab. Guides will utilize other variations when the need arises. Strong climbers can climb directly to the slab from the chimney instead of taking the longer approach, or they can climb a direct line toward the Belly-Roll Almost, avoiding the Eye of the Needle and the Briggs' Slab. The chance of rockfall from those above you is something to consider.

If you're an experienced mountaineer, you can look at our route overviews and reach the Upper Saddle without getting into the fine details shared below. And, anyone can follow the guides. It's everyone's mountain. They are not in charge of other climbers. Guides may encourage free-soloing climbers to pass when it's safe to do so. While guides can move quickly, their clients rarely do. Climbers head off in questionable directions all the time and may end up in locations that are ill-suited for safe and/or efficient travel so don't just follow any climber.


Just a quick safety note to non-climbers:

If you're unfamiliar with climbing etiquette, the appropriate thing to do if you kick rocks down the mountain, or see rocks falling down the mountain, is to holler 'ROCK'! even if you see none below you. It's like saying FORE! when you make an errant golf shot. Your safety and the safety of others is everyone's responsibility when it comes to falling rock. Better yet, don't cause rockfall (easier said than done, sometimes). It takes real mental & physical effort to be safe on this mountain.


Variations to gain the Central Rib's Bench


The above picture shows a few of the many ways to reach the Central Rib's Bench. There is only one "chimney" by the most western corner of the Needle - the Chockstone Chimney. It's mostly a sloping drainage chute with two short 'chimney' sections.


 Western side of the Needle by the Chockstone Chimney
 
 
The guided climbers in the above image are descending from the Briggs' Slab and about to pass the Chockstone Chimney. They are staying on a slightly elevated path above the actual drainage. Staying just above the drainage can provide an extra measure of safety. It depends on conditions and rockfall threats.
 
Those climbers will continue to stay close to the western aspect of the Needle during their descent (see two bigger red dots. They go by there). It's common to find icy conditions. It's a seepage area. It also gets some surface runoff but it is usually safer than the main drainage further west. During an ascent we sometimes see climbers turning around at the first signs of ice. It's always possible that upper elevations might actually be easier to manage (having tacky snow, much less ice, no ice, or dry rock). 


Take the Chockstone Chimney or go for the Briggs' Slab
 

You can scramble up the ledge/step/slab system just to the left of the chimney if you wish to avoid the lowest part of the chimney. Choose any line that looks efficient and safe. We avoid going straight up the chimney with weaker climbers or young kids. If these options look unappealing, just head for the Briggs' Slab.


 Overview of the Chockstone Chimney


Most people who climb the chimney will exit by scrambling south along the first ledge they come to. Once out of the chimney, climbers make a U-Turn to the east to gain the Eye of the Needle (a natural tunnel - watch your head). After going through the tunnel, climbers gain another ledge that runs above the Chockstone Chimney. That upper ledge takes them to the Belly-Roll Almost.
 
Let's look back down the chimney.
 

 Looking at some variations in and out of the chimney


The Runners' Slab is to the left of the chimney on your ascent. The best line of travel on the Runners' Slab might be closer to the bottom of the slab along a seam if you lack sticky shoes. Not everyone is comfortable using the Runners' Slab but with sticky shoes it's a quick easy line. If you are a stronger climber, go wherever you want. 
 

Looking down into the Chockstone Chimney.


The man directly below the photographer is on the ledge that takes you out of the Chockstone Chimney and to the Eye of the Needle (EOTN). Notice the loose rocks. The Briggs' Slab is just to the right of the photographer and unseen.

BTW: The Eye of the Needle's tunnel is a tight fit if you have a big backpack.
 
In 2003, two climbers got stuck on the mountain for three days during a snowstorm. On their third day, climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs after taking a fall while descending the Chockstone Chimney.
 
 

 
Another look at some of the options around the Briggs' Slab & Chockstone Chimney


We had no crampons or shoe spikes on this day. We took the Middle Ledge from the Briggs' Slab to reach the Eye of the Needle.
 
 
 Climbers going over the Belly-Roll Almost
 
 
Once out of the Eye of the Needle, climbers traverse under and over the Belly-Roll Almost. Both variations work fine.


Over or under the BRA
 
 
If you go under the Belly-Roll Almost, you will be looking for a small foothold that is out of view until you are directly above that foothold. There are excellent handholds. After passing the BRA, scramble up a short slope to get a good view of the bench area. You're heading up the Central Rib's Bench toward the Upper Saddle.


Head for the Upper Saddle after gaining the Central Rib's Bench


Upper Exum Climbers: The drainage running to the ridgeline of the Central Rib is just an extension of the Chockstone Chimney. Follow the drainage (inside or out) to the Central Rib's Lower Crossover to make your way to Wall Street if you wish to climb the Upper Exum Ridge. Owen-Spalding climbers are not headed for the crossovers on the ridgeline, usually. Sometimes they end up on the other side of the ridge by mistake so it's good to know a crossover is right "behind" the Needle.
 
Let's look at the access to the Briggs' Slab and variations near it. And think about the fastest route for runners.


Expanded Overview 
 

We'll take a moment to talk about speedy variations since we have the big overview in front of us. The quickest line of travel under dry conditions between the bottom of the Chockstone Chimney and the Central Rib's Bench is open to debate. While attempting a fastest known round-trip time (FKT) on the Grand Teton, Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg (they're married) used the Eye of the Needle variation during their descent and they took the Runners' Slab near the bottom of the Chockstone Chimney.



Emelie & Kilian on her FKT in 2012 (Chockstone Chimney)

 
We find it's quicker for us to climb the lower chimney and skip the Runners' Slab. Everyone is different. FKT runners should consider the Briggs' Slab or an unnamed shortcut. The difference between the fastest round-trip time on the Grand and the 2nd fastest time is about one minute....a meaningless difference unless you're going for the record books. Seconds add up. Emelie's round-trip time was 3 hours and 51 minutes. Kilian was almost an hour faster the following day. Kilian's time was beaten by about 1 minute within 10 days.
 
 
The Fastest Two Runners (2012)
Andy Anderson, 2h53m02s, August 22, 2012
(1:48:02 up, 1:05:00 down)
Kilian Jornet, 2h54m01s, August 12, 2012
~ Trailhead to Summit and back ~

Fastest Woman in 2012
 Emilie Forsberg, 3h51m, August 11, 2012



Access to the Briggs' Slab:
 
 
Another Overview
(Click to Enlarge)
 
 
You might find a shortcut in the above image if you're a runner looking to smash a record.


(Click to Enlarge)


Area by Mini Black Dike


Again, after scrambling up the main drainage a short distance, you'll scramble up a small side 'drainage' containing the Mini Black Dike. You can access the Briggs' Slab and other variations from here. The Briggs' Slab is at the south end of the bench's headwall. It sits right above the Chockstone Chimney. On the other side of the slab is the Cracks of Doom variation.

Since we have the above image in front of you, let's take a moment to look at some less common variations that are near the Briggs' Slab and at a variation to access to the Briggs' Slab. Conditions on the slab may force you to choose another variation. Or the slab may be busy with guided climbers.

In the above image, there is an approach to the Briggs' Slab that runs between the Mini Black Dike and the Chockstone Chimney (see "option under poor conditions" above). It is rarely used but it's sometimes easier to manage when other routes are iced up. It should probably be avoided on a descent unless you have made the ascent because route finding at the very bottom is not obvious. You exit to the north after taking the easiest line of travel down the slope. If it looks difficult, you're in the wrong place (the bottom access is a little funky). Like the Chockstone Chimney, this variation has a nice collection of loose rocks.  
 
 
SOP and COD
 
 
The Cracks of Doom variation is a viable alternative for the capable novice climber. There are several lines on the face which vary slightly in difficulty. Most people use the large taco-shaped opening. Downclimbing the cracks seems as easy as going up them especially if you know the line you're on.

The Mini Black Dike runs directly to the Sack o' Potatoes variation. Climbing from the top end of the Mini Black Dike is not the easiest line of attack in the Sack o' Potatoes but it seems to get the most action. The easier option might be found to the north of the Mini Black Dike along a high line. Notice the SoP's lose rocks as you gain the bench. The line just south of the Mini Black Dike isn't too hard but loose rocks are more of a hazard.
 

A look at the Middle Ledge


The Middle Ledge of the Chockstone Chimney can be used to reach the Eye of the Needle. It allows you to bypass the lower chimney and the Briggs' Slab. There are two common ways to reach the Middle Ledge. You can easily downclimb a short chute right below the Briggs' Slab to gain the Middle Ledge. Or, you can gain the Middle Ledge from an easier path further west as seen above (by the black-colored rock - take easiest traverse).

If we are with other climbers who need protection under dry conditions, say with Boy Scouts, we would use the Briggs' Slab and rope them up. The Middle Ledge is often our choice for partners who need a slow, easy line of ascent but don't need a rope.


Let's finish looking at the Briggs' Slab:
 

 The Briggs' Slab is named after Bill Briggs


We just walk around the outside edges of the Briggs' Slab (like the climber shown above) but it helps to have good leg & arm reach as you leave the slab if you follow us. You need to reach across a small exposed gap. There are perfectly fine small holds if you don't have the leg reach but novice climbers are usually hesitant to use them.

As with the Runner's Slab, it's pretty easy to ascend any line on the Briggs' Slab with sticky shoes. Inexperienced climbers may feel more comfortable with the safety that a rope affords while on the slab. Guides often use a friction belay over rock to quickly move clients over the slab. The other climber in the photo is next to the Belly Roll Almost. He took the Eye of the Needle variation.
 

If the slab looks uninviting, you could use the Middle Ledge of the Chockstone Chimney.
 

Let's take a look at the Central Rib's Bench now that we have examined how to access it:


Click to enlarge.
 

Overview


Once past the Briggs' Slab, Owen-Spalding climbers are heading for the Upper Saddle via the Central Rib's Bench (utilizing one of the red variations, usually). The area just above the Briggs' Slab is a scramble so don't worry about taking an exact line. It is wise to choose a path that provides some protection from rockfall. That path can change when other climbers are above you. 
 
Climbers are often getting pretty whipped at this point if they are on a one-day ascent and not used to the effort. And the effects of the elevation can really start to overcome the unacclimated.


Just another look at the area. Red dots just show overall direction.


Usually, you will take a variation along the Central Rib like the Black Rock Chimney, or the Upper Western Rib to reach the Upper Saddle. The fastest line of ascent is usually around the Black Rock Chimney. On a descent, the UWR might be faster. Everyone scrambles at a different pace so it's hard to say what is safest and fastest for you. The guides sometimes refer to the Upper Western Rib as the Mosh Pit. As we mentioned before, the drainages by the Upper Western Rib are usually avoided due to conditions, rockfall hazards, or the extra time involved. With stable snow in the drainage, you have more options for a quick line of travel.
 
 
Looking down from the Upper Western Rib & drainage
Click to enlarge
 

Overview of the lower half of the Central Rib


Again, Owen-Spalding climbers are not headed for the crossovers on the ridge.
 
Scramble anywhere that's safe. As always, we like to take a higher route on our way to the Upper Saddle. That keeps us above the drainage where rocks tend to roll. We prefer to use the Central Rib's Black Rock Chimney variation to reach the Upper Saddle. We will look at all options in a little more detail. You may see scrappy footpaths between here and the Upper Saddle. Some are useful, some not so much. 

Let's take a look at the Upper Western Rib variation first. We will examine the Black Rock Chimney variations afterward.


The Upper Western Rib Variation



Another overview from higher up the UWR - looking SSE


Directly west of the Black Rock Chimney's access point is where climbers access the Upper Western Rib. The UWR is a natural line to follow so most climbers choose it. You may see climbers heading up the drainage. Most won't be hit by rockfall, and most won't cause rockfall, but for everyone's safety this is strongly discouraged. If everything is filled in with snow, go wherever you want that's safe.

 
Upper Western Rib Variation - Stay out of the drainage due to rockfall hazards.


Main drainage with snow


Climbers have taken slides to their death due to the tricky snow conditions. On this day, pictured above, we ended up taking a line on the western aspect of the Central Rib. We climbed near the middle of the left side of the photo. This area completely drys out as the summer rolls along.

In June of 1992, a climber lost control near the top of the Owen-Spalding Couloir. He went over some rock bands and ended up on the snow about 100 feet above the Black Dike with bilateral wrist fractures, a right side pneumothorax, and fractures of T-8, T-12 and C4-7 vertebrae. A helmet probably saved his life.


Western aspect of the Central Rib

UWR: Upper Western Rib
EOTN: Eye of the Needle


The red dots seen above show parts of the traveled path used by climbers taking the Black Rock Chimney variation. Again, we'll look at that route in a moment.
 
Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Thomas Raymer was guiding Robert Slater down the mountain from the Upper Saddle in fresh snow when Slater's pack caught on a rock and they both fell 200 feet. Slater suffered minor injuries but Raymer was seriously injured and was carried out the following day. Raymer had a broken femur & talus, and severe scalp lacerations with part of the skull exposed.
 
 

Overview of the upper Central Rib - looking SE. Marked path is general direction of travel.


After ascending the Upper Western Rib, head back toward the Central Rib once it is easy to do so. You'll end up on the same path as climbers taking the Black Rock Chimney. Sometimes you will find a well worn path with summer traffic. Winter snow and runoff can rearrange everything come springtime so it might take some time before a well worn path reappears. There are many paths in this area. Be careful not to kick loose rocks down the mountain as you cross the main drainage. 
 

The Black Rock Chimney Variation


Let's go back down the Central Rib and take a look at the Black Rock Chimney variation.
 
 
 
BRC & Rosenberg Variation (many options)


On June 17, 2013, Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued 57-year-old climbing guide Jim Williams after the snow that he was standing on near the Black Rock Chimney collapsed and he took a short fall, catching a crampon on the ice and sustaining an injury.
 
Exercise care as you approach the Black Rock Chimney area. There are many loose rocks.


The Central Rib's Black Rock Chimney variations.

 
The Black Rock Chimney variation starts right next to the slab. The Rosenberg Variation is just to its west. It's a more direct line toward the crest of the Central Rib. And it's more of a climb up a rocky face than chimney. It ends at the top of the Black Rock Chimney.
 
You can also wrap around the entire area on an elevated path that stays just above the drainage and then scrambles back toward the Central Rib's crest (it's just north of the Rosenberg Variation). This might be the fastest for runners. All three options have been guided routes.
 
The Black Rock Chimney variation which runs above the steppy ramp has experienced erosion and contains some loose rocks which present a hazard to climbers. Most climbers can recognize and manage the hazards but new climbers might be caught off guard. We stay along the western side of the chimney if we use it. We prefer the BRC because of its elevated path but that safety margin is minor given the loose rock in the main chute that follows the ridge.
 
The Black Rock Chimney variation was considered for removal as a guided option by Exum Mountain Guides in 2022 due to the loose rock. Exercise care. The Rosenberg and the BRC variations both top out at the same location: at a bowl-like opening in the rib that has a drainage running toward the Wall Street Couloir.
 
The "ramp" in the above photos is shown below.....


Climbers on the BRC's Steppy Ramp


Once above the Steppy Ramp, you're in the 'chimney' section. It runs just under the western aspect of the ridgeline (see below). This is very easy climbing when dry. Again, watch out for loose rocks. Climb the chimney to an open 'bowl', pass through the bowl and continue up the Central Rib's western aspect.

If you're heading for the Steppy Ramp on the descent, go all the way down the BRC until the ridgeline opens up and you are suddenly on the eastern aspect of the ridgeline. The Steppy Ramp is right at that demarcation or transition point. From there, you are forced to take the eastern aspect of the ridge or the ramp to the west. Take the ramp to the west. See below.


Stay along the western aspect of the Central Rib
 

If you did miss the exit to the Steppy Ramp during the descent and you end up on the eastern aspect, you'll find some slow-moving climbing over some slabs and ledges compared to the ramp. You can regain the Central Rib's Bench further down the rib by using the crossovers that Upper Exum Climbers use. We pointed them out previously. Again, we don't recommend going that way.

The yellow and green arrows are just two options right above the ramp. For young kids, the Yellow line might be easier to manage. Just depends. The arrows point down only to illustrate the exit to the ramp during a descent.


Stephen Koch leading climbers down the BRC toward the Steppy Ramp



 BRC along the western aspect of the Central Rib's ridgeline

This is where the loose rocks are. The more stable rock is along the chimney's western side. It's obvious when you're there. Actually, watch your step no matter where you are in this chimney.
 

The bowl-like opening above the BRC and Rosenberg variations- looking SSE


Cross this short bowl-like opening in the Central Rib. Do not take the drainage to the Wall Street Couloir shown above. It's not a time-saving shortcut. It could be a tricky descent for a novice climber. Certainly not quick. Additionally, the Wall Street Couloir is not a shortcut off the mountain — it's a little cliffy, it's a rockfall terrain trap, etc (climbable for some but has no advantages for free-soloing climbers). 
 
Again, the Rosenberg variation tops out at the same location as the BRC: to this bowl. And it is immediately to your right during a downclimb once you leave the bowl. In the photo, the top of the Rosenberg is directly below the big white arrow and to your right on a descent.

FYI: If you are doing laps on the Upper Exum — and who isn't? — you can take the Wall Street Couloir from the Upper Saddle to reach Wall Street. From an area near the top of the Central Rib, we usually head for the eastern half of the Wall Street Couloir if we choose to go down it. Going up or down the Wall Street Couloir is not recommended for anybody who doesn't need to be there. People do head up and down by mistake. It is a slope of loose rocks and there are other challenges if you pick the wrong line of descent. Two seldom climbed routes are on the west face of the ridge directly above the couloir including one of the hardest on the Grand.


Another overview of the Central Rib


The bowl-like opening at the top of the Black Rock Chimney is between the pink and yellow arrowheads in the above image. It's slightly hidden. Again, the bowl drains to the Wall Street Couloir. Simply scramble across the bowl and continue along the western side of the Central Rib.

You may see sloppy & broken footpaths after exiting the top of the bowl. Those footpaths parallel the rib. Some footpaths are too sloppy for us and we just scramble up the rock. It is best to stay very close to the Central Rib and out of the main drainage.


A view near the Central Rib's Patio


The Patio (unseen) is a natural flat area at the top of the Central Rib where guides often take a break. The wind tends to blow and the temps seem to drop as you gain the Upper Saddle so the patio is a good place to add an extra layer and take a break. From the Patio you can go slightly northeast and look for a broken footpath to reach the western side of the Upper Saddle. There is no best path when it's dry. They are all pretty easy. Again, avoid the Wall Street Couloir if you are trying to get back to the Lower Saddle on a descent.

When unconsolidated snow covers foot traps (fall season, often), the best path to the saddle can be difficult to navigate if you don't know the area well. The slightly eastern approach from the Patio seems safest under sketchy conditions; however, a higher and slightly western route from the Patio can be safely navigated if you really take the time to check your footing. There is no guarantee that you won't run into a foot trap on the eastern approach but the odds seem lower.


 Upper Saddle - looking west


This picture is from April or May. The snow was really firm but punchy. The top of the Central Rib is where the footprints disappear on the left side of the image. Clearly, the Upper Saddle's western side is much lower than its eastern side. If the photographer were to turn around while ascending the Upper Saddle, he might see the view in the next image.


Variations to access the eastern side of the Upper Saddle.


The exposed southern RED route was the most common ascent line but not necessarily the best. On that variation, there's a stem move up a rock feature that challenges many climbers—many climbers. Almost no one ropes up here but it may be wise to provide a leg up to weaker climbers and spot them. Or use a rope. You might find a stepping stone below the stem move to help climbers get over the obstacle. Some very loose dirt and rocks are found by the stem move. Move with great care. All the other lines can also be used for an ascent.

An experienced and guided climber fell into the Exum Gully (AKA the top of wall Street Couloir) which runs directly below the RED route. She did not survive. She most likely slipped on the loose rocks but no one really knows. She was not roped up. It does illustrate once again that you have to make every move with thought and care no matter how simple you feel a move is even while walking.


 Close-up view of access to the eastern side of the Upper Saddle


Free-soloing climbers can take whatever route suits their fancy.
 
In this photo, the center BLUE route is very useful when conditions make the other options too sketchy (unstable snow, icing, etc). It has small holds and may make a novice climber uncomfortable without protection or spotting—but it works fine.

The GREEN route sees more descents than ascents. However, we find that novice climbers would rather climb up it than down it. Kids may be better served by a roped ascent/descent of the GREEN line. Many feel it is the easiest ascent line. If it looks easy, take it. The biggest issue with this line is its exposure to the north and the awkwardness of a descent for novice climbers. Some guides take climbers up and down the GREEN line. Easy to hip belay if needed. This is the fastest option.
 
A 4th variation runs above the red route. It has you climbing along a seam on the south-facing wall by the stem move over the flake. It is almost never used. Just overlooked, and looks harder.


 Looking back down at the red variation to access the eastern side of the Upper Saddle


SAFETY REMINDER

Take your time and be thoughtful about your movements as you climb. Inexperienced climbers tend to be extremely cautious but they don't always recognize hazards. And they may not take enough time to assess the best line and body position on any given rock feature. If it doesn't feel or look right, back off and reconsider your options.

Some people get summit fever when they should be bailing. If the weather, conditions or skill sets aren't in their favor, it's time to turn around. It's never the wrong call to bail even if you're wrong about the threat. Climbing up an icy mountain might be possible but getting back down safely might not be. And trying to beat the weather when climbers can't move quickly is a mistake.
 
Watch out for loose holds that seem secure until your full weight is upon them. Most of the holds on the Owen-Spalding are very stable solid holds but never assume they are. Again, loose rocks on the ground are a hazard. Verglas is a very thin layer of ice which can appear as dry rock. You need to be looking for it — everywhere. As we said before, wet rock can be as slick as ice with the wrong shoes or polished rock. More than a few people will cross some water or snow and slip on dry rock because their soles are wet.
 
You are not safe if your mind isn't thinking about safety constantly. The mental exercise of figuring out how to safely and efficiently move over rock is part of the fun of climbing. There is no reason to hurry and get hurt. Take the time to be safe.

Tired, exhausted climbers are rarely vigilant. Making calculated safety choices with every move is time consuming, sometimes mentally draining. Even the best technical climbers can let down their guard for just a second at the wrong place or wrong time. Ropes are popular for many reasons and this is one of  'em. When we say you need the right combination of physical and mental vigor to make it up this mountain, we are referring to the act of climbing and the ability to stay safe.


Overview of the Upper Saddle as seen from the Enclosure


Almost without exception, free-soloing climbers on the Owen-Spalding do not use the rappel or carry ropes. It is almost always quicker to downclimb the OS route for them than to use the rap. And usually safer. Free-soloing climbers might carry a rope under adverse conditions or while exploring new areas. Some will catch a ride on another person's rope. We will take a quick look at the rappel area, nonetheless.
 
Dick Pownall was the first to use the rappel area. He started climbing and guiding in the Tetons during the late 1940s. And he finished in 2002, at the age of 75. According to Tom Hornbein, he toyed with the idea of another climb when he turned 90. 
 
 

 Main Rappel area, & access to Secondary 70' Rap

 
The Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle is also know as the Owen Rappel. And at one time, the Pownall Rappel.

The Main Rappel has a maintained sling and bolted rings. The bolted rings are a short distance north of the sling. The sling is sometimes threaded inside a cut section of fire hose to protect it. The tag on the bolted rings is stamped 40m - the longest fall line. The Upper Saddle's landing zone slopes downhill. The landing zone (LZ) below the sling sits higher than the landing zone below the bolted rings. Most climbers get by with a dynamic 60m rope thrown a little to the south from the sling. Make sure your rope is truly 60m and dynamic (not every climber has a handle on that).
 
Just after leaving sight of the rappel setups, it's possible to land on a nice ledge that can be used to adjust your position and check your rope.
 
A secondary rappel area is just above and south of the main rappel area. It is broken into two sections. The secondary rappel can be reached from the Main Rappel's sling if you climb up a very short chimney directly above the sling. Head south immediately after exiting the short chimney. You can also reach this rap area from the base of Sargent's Chimney but we prefer the access by the sling due to the loose rock further above the raps.  BTW, you might be able to rap from the Main Rappel area to the 2nd setup of the secondary rappel if that strikes your interest. Take a good look (while secured), before deciding to do that.
 
The upper station of the secondary rappel is often a mess of old webbing. Rarely cleaned. The first setup isn't a 70' drop. The distance between the two stations might be 70 feet but the drop to the upper landing zone is pretty short. You can downclimb a tight, slanting chimney and avoid the first setup if you wish. The second setup is a 70 foot drop. Watch for loose rocks.
 
The secondary rappel is rarely used. It's funky. Most climbers either don't know about the secondary rap area or choose not to use it. It is useful if the standard rappel area is backed up with climbers at the sling and bolts. There have been 2-hour delays at the rappel to the Upper Saddle (like on a hot Labor Day weekend with perfect conditions during a pandemic).  That can be a real safety hazard.

People have come up short of rope while rappelling here. And Exum Mountain Guide Gary Falk lost his life in a fall from the sling area.
 

 
Main Rappel Area

 
 
AVOID STANDING DIRECTLY BELOW THE RAPPEL AREA
THIS IS A ROCKFALL ZONE


From the Upper Saddle it's about 600' to the summit. Only a small fraction of that is Class 5.4 climbing when dry. That class rating can be thrown in the trash under poor conditions. It won't represent the real challenge.


The Owen-Spalding Route (the OS) - Click to Enlarge (rt-click to open in new tab).


 Climbers at the Belly Roll (far left side)


The exposed Belly Roll is at the very NE corner of the Upper Saddle


This area can be windy, freezing, and backed up with climbers. Waiting makes the cold worse. Morning temperatures in the 30s are not uncommon around the Upper Saddle during the summer. That's before wind chill is calculated. While it's not always freezing and clogged with climbers, you should be prepared for that possibility. Most free-soloers can safely pass other climbers. It's good etiquette to make sure those climbers are comfortable with the idea, and that those climbers don't put your safety at risk, or vice versa.

People have bailed because they didn't have gloves during the peak summer season. The climbing rangers have rescued climbers who lost dexterity and grip strength due to low temperatures. Many climbers don't like using full-fingered gloves in high-consequence areas that require critical contact with the rock. We do take those gloves and sometimes hand warmers (life savers!) when we expect temperatures below freezing. We'll remove them on a temporary basis if we feel we're better served by bare hands. Many inexpensive gloves have an excellent grip. Thin gloves are better than no gloves if it's cold.
 
If it's 90° in the afternoon at the valley floor, the summit will probably reach the high 50s or low 60s at some point if you're in the sun. Cooler in shaded areas. Temperatures above 90° are pretty rare in Grand Teton National Park.


The Owen-Spalding's exposed Belly Roll, Crawl, & Double Chimney


Another overview of the exposed areas


Plenty of climbers turn back at the exposure. We never question that decision nor do we encourage anyone to continue if they make that call. It is a psychological challenge for many.

If you make it this far and decide to bail because of conditions or the challenge then you might want to consider tackling the Enclosure which is the second highest point in the Teton Range. The Enclosure is a western spur off the Upper Saddle. There is a very small rock formation on its summit in the shape of a circular place to several people to sit. It has outstanding views of the Teton Range. The original rock formation was thought to be left by Native Americans. White folks rearranged it into what you see today. It's a great place to watch climbers on the western aspect of the Grand Teton.
 
To get to the Enclosure, scramble NW from an area near the top of the Central Rib. You can't scramble to it directly from the Upper Saddle. Take the easiest path to reach the top of the Enclosure. The scramble is harder than it first looks but it shouldn't take more than 15 to 20 minutes when conditions are good. Here is a photo of the scramble.


Variations that are not for novice climbers:

Between the Great West Chimney and the Double Chimney is the Double Chimney Bypass. A ledge runs from the Double Chimney over to the Great West Chimney. Along that ledge, there is a small wall that you need to climb. You will end up at the bottom of the Owen Chimney if you use the bypass (another look). There is no advantage to taking this variation and it can be outright sketchy to descend if you don't know the easiest route. It is simply a variation for bored climbers or a variation to avoid a crowded Double Chimney. The bypass can get slimy in spots with the right weather. Avoid that. Climbers coming off the North Ridge sometimes use the Double Chimney Bypass and head for the Owen Chimney.

The Great West Chimney is almost always a chute of poor conditions during the summer but sometimes it's a viable way of bypassing the Double Chimney, the Owen Chimney, and/or Sargent's. Variations along the sides of the GWC are also available. Again, these variations are not recommend for novice climbers. It takes just a minute or so to check out the GWC from the Second Entrance of the Double Chimney should you wish to do so. 

The Wittich Crack (video & first ascent) is rated a 5.6 (CGTTTR) to 5.7 (MP). It's not uncommon to run into poorer conditions near the top of the Wittich after a cold wet spell because it's well shaded. However, it's not part of a major drainage area like the First Entrance of the Double Chimney. It is a variation for stronger climbers who don't want to wait behind OS climbers. The crux is the exit from the top (climb left). 


 The Wittich, Great West Chimney, DC Bypass, etc

Let's get back to our standard route options....


 OS's Exposure


The above video takes a look at the Owen-Spalding's exposure between the Belly Roll and the 2nd Entrance of the Double Chimney. It's redundant with multiple members of a local coed soccer team making similar moves; however, it gives you a good feel for what to expect. Most of the soccer players were not climbers and had no prior climbing experience. With modest effort, you will find better videos on YouTube. 


Belly Roll - going over it


Belly Roll - Going over it


Albert Ellingwood atop the Belly Roll (Bellyroll in those days)


Belly Roll - going part-way under it


Another climber, maybe 11 or 12-years-old, riding the bottom of the Belly Roll but above the lower ledge


Belly Roll - going totally under it

 
Belly Roll - view from above


 Belly Roll - ascent



Video of two climbers going under the Belly Roll


We tend to go under the Belly Roll during the descent and over it on the ascent but you can take either variation in either direction. If we are passing other climbers, we use whatever line is out of their way. There is a nice ledge directly below the Belly Roll. The ledge is tiny at its southern end.

In the video above, the first climber jumps off the southern end which isn't the wisest move to emulate. Had he landed on a small patch of ice, or lost his balance, he could have sailed over the cliff. Once he let go of his handhold, only his feet were keeping him on the mountain. You can gently step off the end if you are tall. Obviously, taller climbers have greater flexibility in their choices since their reach is longer. The shorter climber climbs over the lip of the cleavage once he passes the Belly Roll. That was a wise decision for him.


The ledge between the Belly Roll and the Crawl. Upper Saddle in background


Looking toward the Crawl from the ledge.


The Crawl with access to the Double Chimney in background - descent

Go outside, inside, or partly outside & inside the Crawl.


 Glenn Exum with partner in the Crawl


Glenn is below the First Entrance of the Double Chimney and he has one foot on the ledge variation used to access the 2nd Entrance of the DC.


 Entering the Crawl


The Crawl - descent


Crawl - descent


The area right behind the climbers and in front of the photographer can be sketchy. Loose rocks, snow, water and ice are common at this location. Additionally, the rock face is sloping into Valhalla Canyon. Be careful as you leave the Crawl — see below....


Area between 1st Entrance & Crawl


This picture will give you a feel for what's underneath you if snowy conditions hide features. Unstable snow can slide off the slope and take you with it (see below, too). Stay close to the wall. FYI: There is an old piton on the wall above you as you come out of the Crawl. A few small handholds are along the wall.


Snow had a very unstable 'cornice' over the exposure
 

View from the 2nd Entrance of the Double Chimney - looking back toward the Crawl


Looking at the variations to access the Double Chimney

The two climbers in the background by the 2nd Entrance just came off the North Ridge and are about to enter the 2nd Entrance.

You have a couple of variations to choose from to gain the interior of the Double Chimney. Obviously, this area is very exposed and it is critical to perform thoughtful climbing moves.

1) The 1st Entrance is a challenging but short climb up an exposed nook that sees plenty of action. It is the crux of the entire climb if everything else is dry. We will always suggest using the 2nd Entrance with weaker climbers or to prevent delays if others are behind you. If climbers are backed up by the 2nd Entrance, the 1st Entrance is suggested instead of tangling with ropes and climbers.

2) The 2nd Entrance is considered to be the fastest and easiest variation. It is the most popular variation. Almost all free-soloing climbers use it under good conditions. It can be reached in two ways from the 1st Entrance. 

     Hand-Crack Traverse: Your handholds are along the obvious cleavage above the sloping rock. Your feet are on the sloping rock. Some footholds are low on the slope, some high. Good handholds are critical. The footholds are small and some might be more frictiony than you're expecting. The crux is the last move off the cleavage as you gain the interior of the 2nd Entrance. Once again, with sticky shoes it's all pretty easy when dry but it demands attention. Non-climbers may feel that "challenging" is the right word to use and not "easy". Just depends.

     Lower Ledge: This option runs directly below the one above. From the 1st Entrance, you can downclimb to a narrow ledge that runs toward the 2nd Entrance. Directly below the 2nd Entrance you will find a small step and some small holds on the wall in front of you (and on the wall to your left). Every climber has personal preferences so we don't recommend one over the other. Conditions may favor one over the other. Non-climbers should not be on the mountain under mixed conditions.

On the downclimb, it is usually harder (psychologically & physically) for novice climbers to safely downclimb out of the 2nd Entrance and gain the lower ledge. Some will. Almost all free-soloing climbers use the hand-in-crack traverse on the descent because it's quicker. About the only time we directly downclimb from the 2nd Entrance to the lower ledge is if we are about to spot another climber or conditions require it. 

Let's look at the variations in more detail.


1st Entrance of the Double Chimney


The above guide is grabbing a horn and muscling her way over it with some stemming behind her. There is a small depression near her rear foot to use for leverage. Notice she is only wearing approach shoes. Many climbers give this entrance a rating higher than 5.4. The 2023 edition of A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range gives it a 5.5 rating. Others feel the entire route only has a 5.4 rating because of the 1st Entrance. Climbing grades are easily debated. Either way, it's still a cruxy, exposed maneuver for many OS climbers. The area is often wet or icy.  Let us pause here and again say that wet soles or wet rock can be as dangerous as ice for free-soloing climbers. It depends upon the rock and shoes, and your climbing skills.
 
We favor stemming with our body facing northish if the south wall is wet or dry (opposing direction of the woman). We are also much taller than the climber shown here and our body favors certain positions over others. Also, our shoes stick better to the northish wall than the steep southish wall. Everyone is different.
 
Variations that are not usually taken by novice climbers:

There is a variation directly above the horn at the 1st Entrance (directly above this climber's right arm). It runs up a tiny chimney/drainage. It can be used to access a ledge that runs along the top of the Double Chimney's Open-V variation (discussed further below). It is a good way to bypass slow climbers if this variation is dry. It can also be used as a variation to access the Catwalk. It's fairly easy; however, it can be dangerously wet, icy, or slimy because it is a drainage for water flowing off the Catwalk. In our experience, novice climbers find it too intimidating. Downclimbing that variation is even more unsettling for many. It's got exposure with holds that look suspect above a drop to your death.
 
Let's get back to the 1st Entrance....
 

1st Entrance seen from above 


Too many climbers were backed up at the 1st Entrance in the above image. And more were behind them. Using the 2nd Entrance would have been a better choice to speed things along. Once again, on the Owen-Spalding route it is important to keep things moving if others are behind you. If a more efficient variation presents itself, please consider taking it.
 
We use the 1st Entrance when ice or snow covers the entire area (assuming it makes accessing the 2nd Entrance a questionable move). Downclimbing the 1st Entrance isn't common but it's a good option under some circumstances such as poor conditions or bottlenecks by 2nd Entrance. We lower ourselves from the horn - it's pretty quick. We're tall. 
 
Albert Ellingwood on top

 
Albert Ellingwood is atop of the Austrian mountaineer Hermann Buhl. The American mountaineer Carl Blaurock took the photo in 1924. Carl was the first person to summit all fourteeners in the contiguous United States. Ellingwood made his first climb of the route a year earlier with the first woman to summit the Grand Teton, Eleanor Davis. Eleanor and Albert were the 3rd party to officially summit. They were actually on the 4th ascent up the Grand because members of the Owen party climbed twice in 1898 (minus Owen on the second trip). This shoulder stand is called a courte-échelle (short ladder). In the 1960s, this was still a recommended climbing move in the Bonneys guidebook for the range.
 
Also in 1924, on July 25th, 16-year-old Paul Petzoldt, made his first climb up the Owen-Spalding route under icy conditions. He climbed with Ralph Herron and they became the 4th party to summit the Grand Teton. Previously, William "Billy" Owen (of Owen-Spalding fame) had given Paul a map of the route and secured a car to get the boys closer to the peak after a chance meeting in Jackson. Paul also guided Owen to the summit of the Grand during the same summer in August. Owen was about 65 years old by then. And Paul also guided the first local woman to summit that same summer: a 58-year-old, out of shape Geraldine Lucas. This remarkable woman homesteaded right below the Tetons. Paul went on to start what became Exum Mountain Guides and NOLS. NOLS alumni went on to start Jackson Hole Mountain Guides.


Let's get back to our 2nd Entrance route options.... 

Again, do not go past the 2nd Entrance and toward the Great West Chimney unless you intend to go off-route (DC Bypass, etc). The narrow ledge that runs to the Great West Chimney from the 2nd Entrance is along the same cleavage as the Crawl, etc. The two Double Chimney entrances are about 15 feet apart.


Climber heading for the 2nd Entrance using the hand-in-crack traverse


Who needs footholds?


Climber using the lower ledge to access the DC's 2nd Entrance


The climber is directly below the 2nd Entrance. The Great West Chimney can be seen along the left side of the photo. It's the REALLY BIG chimney. Again, that's not the OS route. The Wittich Crack is on the right side of the photo. Access to the Double Chimney Bypass is seen.


 Valhalla Canyon - looking southish


Bodies have ended up at the bottom-most snow field in Valhalla Canyon after falling from the OS's exposure and rappel. This is the view from the north side (Cascade Canyon side) of the Grand.

The approach up Valhalla Canyon toward the Grand Teton is indeed used by a few climbers (not OS climbers). It includes crossing a sometimes-roaring and dangerous Cascade Creek. Climbers who wish to access this side of the Grand often take the Valhalla Traverse from the Lower Saddle. The best Cascade Canyon approach across the creek should be figured out in advance.


 Lower ledge - heading for the 2nd Entrance


 Not the most common belay location for the 2nd Entrance
 
 
This is a funky spot for belaying but it gets used. Under this situation we would ascend the 1st Entrance. It can be safety hazard when everyone is clustered together in a spot like this over the exposure. No reason to add a soloing climber.  A soloing climber could wait for the climbers to move into a safer location and pass them at that point; however, that might take more time than it takes to reach the summit, or longer than expected.
 

Climber using the lower ledge to access the DC's 2nd Entrance


The free-soloing climber is in the same location as the climber in the previous picture. He is above Valhalla Canyon (unseen below) / Black Ice Couloir (far right). Just a quick aside to say that climbers can be below you anywhere on the Grand. That includes below the climber shown here. Be mindful about rockfall.
 

Gaining the 2nd Entrance


This climber is just above the location of the climber in the previous image. He used the hand-in-crack traverse instead of the lower ledge to access the interior of the Double Chimney at the 2nd Entrance. This move into the chimney is a critical move. The footholds are frictiony and you have to find a good handhold to pull yourself inside while on those modest footholds. On a descent, most climbers place their hands on the cleavage (running under his lower hand) and use their handholds to lower themselves to the first good foothold. If they have sticky shoes, it inspires more confidence. It is not a place to screw up.


 Access to 2nd Entrance from lower ledge

As with many locations, it helps to be tall but shorter climbers do fine.

In the video below, the climber takes a slip as he tries to enter the 2nd Entrance of the Double Chimney. This is a common area for minor slips as the footholds are more friction than bomb-proof step. He recovers and goes on to make some GT climbing history. Climbers have fallen to their death around this area. One involved a lightning strike and another involved a novice free-soloing climber under adverse conditions. He was alone and his exact location & the exact cause of his fall is unknown. There have been others.


A big slip that didn't slow him down.


View from the 2nd Entrance toward the middle of the Double Chimney


The climbers are near the middle of the chimney and waiting to enter the Open-V. It not uncommon to find climbers waiting here on a busy day. The 1st Entrance of the Double Chimney tops out by the climber looking at the photographer.


 Looking back at variations mid-way in the Double Chimney. 


We will look at several variations to move around the Double Chimney:


The crack along the southwest corner of the Open-V ends on a nice ledge. Just walk off to the east above the Open-V.


The Double Chimney's Open-V. Tunnel variation below.


This free-soloing climber is descending the Open-V variation inside the Double Chimney. He is about to exit the western side of the Open-V. This is harder than it looks. Novice climbers regularly use the Open-V but it can be a challenge for them to enter and exit gracefully. The Tunnel variation is considered easier. Take your time and consider the best variation for you. Stem moves are very popular in the interior of the DC.


Access to the Northern Slot variation - two free-soloing climbers


The Double Chimney's North Slot is often gained from further inside the Open-V. The above climber is tall and has an easier time ascending the flake's western edge. This is just one way to navigate around the Open-V; and again, just one of many variations inside the DC.


 Stemming to move in or out of the Open-V is common.


Heading up the North Slot


 North Slot


This climber was actually descending the chimney. We reversed the order of the above images. Most climbers don't descend the Northern Slot in this manner. He did a nice job quickly.
 
While it might be a little tricky for novice climbers to exit & enter the Open-V, it's even trickier when it's icy, especially without crampons. This area can be VERY SKETCHY with any slick snow or ice, even a little bit. The rock is sloping right below the entrances to the Open-'V' and Tunnel variations. Ice builds up there. If you slip on any slick surface, you could easily slide out of the chimney and into Valhalla Canyon. There aren't many monkey-bar handholds. It demands your attention.

Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Allan Bard (44), who was also a highly respected & experienced guide of the Palisades School of Mountaineering in Bishop, California, died after slipping on ice and falling 130 feet on a rope while leading the Double Chimney.
 

 
Taking a break at the entrance to the Open-V


North Slot directly below photographer. Rope in Tunnel. Open-V at top of image.
 

 Open-V variations

 
The red line is a typical line of travel for those who use the Open-V variation. You can exit anywhere along the line. The "Most Difficult" exit usually involves stemming the walls (see below) but it can be climbed more directly.

Exiting the Open-V slot to the southeast

Let's go back and look at the Tunnel variation.


Downclimbing the tunnel variation.


The free-soloing climber is exiting the lower part of the tunnel (she went up the Upper Exum Route). The DC's tunnel variation is a tight fit with a backpack. The photo makes it look like you can easily stand upright but that is not the case. You're on your hands and knees. When dry, it is a very popular variation. 
 

This is where you pop out of the tunnel on the ascent.


Can you climb out of this? Many people have trouble figuring out the best way to exit. Take your time. Back off a line if it doesn't feel quite right and reconsider your options. Kids are usually pretty good at it. We think the tunnel is the best line for them when dry.


 Many ways to climb out.


Climber just above the tunnel - looking northish


He will exit the Double Chimney to his right. The photographer is on a ledge just south of the Open-V, and above it.
 

The common exit from the DC - looking WNW


The slabs by the climber have decent but modest handholds when dry. They work fine. With any snow or ice, those holds quickly become plugged. The slabs above the Double Chimney can be very slick when wet. Exercise caution.

Again, some small loose rocks can be found between the Double Chimney and the Owen Chimney and those are slip hazards.

If you take the "most common" exit out of the Double Chimney directly above the tunnel variation, you will climb up the following rock face: 
 

The woman is exiting the DC. The man is at the bottom of the Owen Chimney.
 

The slabs above the Double Chimney run to the bottom of the Owen Chimney. The Owen Chimney runs slightly sideways to the southeast so you can't see into its interior as you exit the Double Chimney. 

It is pretty easy to shatter thin ice with a rock, screwdriver, crampon, axe, etc if you need to clean a hold. We think the holds on the left side are better than the more direct line by the rope. Both lines work fine under dry conditions. The rope is coming out of the tunnel variation.


 Base of Owen Chimney


This is the overview of the area. You can head toward the Catwalk or the Owen Chimney once you leave the Double Chimney. The complete Owen Chimney is not very difficult when dry. Mostly steppy rock. It's often hard to tell if ice is covering critical footholds in the chimney from below. If you're unsure, you can take a look at the Catwalk. It's easy to retreat back to the chimney if you wish to stick with that. The chimney is slightly more challenging than the Catwalk when everything is dry.

You can reach the 125 foot Catwalk variation from the first opening in the Owen Chimney, or via the more direct line right out of the Double Chimney. Choose the path that is best for you given the conditions. They are similar in difficulty when dry.
 
The Catwalk is the preferred descent route for most free-soloing climbers, and for all free-soloing FKT runners. FKT runners who are strong climbers should consider the Owen Chimney during an ascent if it is dry and empty. Under mixed conditions, the Owen Chimney is sometimes a better variation than the Catwalk. Just depends. As always, soloing under icy conditions is not recommended but stuff happens, or perhaps you have the experience to handle it. We solo under mixed conditions with and without crampons so we tend to like the fact that there are many variations to choose from.

Variations that are not usually taken by novice climbers:

A Northern Variation: Notice the crack & chimney variation on the left side of the Owen Chimney (see above or below). It tops out on the same ledge as the Owen Chimney. The crack section is a much harder line of travel; however, there is an easier chimney section above it. The chimney section can be accessed from just above the first opening in the Owen Chimney. That alternative access point lets you bypass the lower crack.

We will look at the southern Owen Chimney Bypass variation in just a bit. For now, notice that you can also access the southern bypass from the first opening in the Owen Chimney. Or, it can be accessed from the Catwalk. The bypass is a mixed bag of climbing: chimney, corner crack, slab etc.
 
 
Let's get back to our standard route options.... 


Base of Owen Chimney


Again, you can access the Catwalk directly from the top of the Double Chimney or from the first opening in the Owen Chimney.


The Catwalk Variation


We'll look at the Catwalk variation first and then go back and look at the Owen Chimney variation. 


 The Owen Chimney - looking WNW


This is the view from just above the first opening in the Owen Chimney. We are looking back toward the Double Chimney. You must go around a tight corner to access the Catwalk from the first opening in the chimney. It's an exposed passageway where there isn't much freedom to move around. Easy when dry. There is an old piton at the corner— see below. And at least two more in the wall along the Catwalk.

Since we have the southern Owen-Chimney Bypass hightlighted, let's take a moment to point out a few things about the bypass before we look at the rest of the Catwalk. The corner faces NW and it doesn't see much sunshine so it can get icy. The rest of the bypass gets more sun. The bypass might be more difficult for a novice climber than the Catwalk or Owen Chimney. Some non-climbers climbers nail it when dry.
 
To access the bypass from the Catwalk, you will travel a short distance across the Catwalk and look for the easiest location to gain a small ledge above you. It's at the only location that looks like a reasonably easy section to climb. That ledge above you that runs back to the bypass. The access point to the ledge is usually before the section of the Catwalk that sees the worst icing.


A view from the Catwalk toward the DC

The most common direct line to the Catwalk from the Double Chimney goes by a flake that looks suspicious. It's been a reliable flake for decades but there are other lines if you don't like that one. Easy climbing.


The Catwalk - looking southish. Climber is descending.
 
Ice is common near the location where the climber is. It drains down the wall and over the Catwalk. If you do find ice, it might be easy to chip away or step over it while using a hold on the wall. Sometimes you can scramble away from the wall to the west and find enough dry patches of rock to pass a difficult section of ice. Not everyone is comfortable moving away from the wall but this is often a excellent option. Sometimes icy verglas can be hard to recognize if it's a tiny patch along a mostly dry Catwalk. Look for it.


The Catwalk  - looking northish - downclimb


The scramble between the Catwalk & the Main Rap Overlook - looking NNW


Once past the mostly flat Catwalk there is a short scramble toward the Main Rap Overlook. The upward scramble is easy when dry. Climbers sometimes crab craw down the rock during the descent to reach the Catwalk. You won't recover (YOU WILL DIE) if you lose your balance, slip or trip in this area. So, at the very least stay low and go slow if you're new to this. Gravity and momentum are two hazards working against you as you downclimb this area.


Exit off the Catwalk - Looking Eastish


The Owen Chimney variation


Let's go back and look at the Owen Chimney variation for those who don't want to take the Catwalk.


 Base of Owen Chimney as seen for the top of the Double Chimney


The Owen Chimney can get backed up pretty quickly with a group of climbers — unlike the Catwalk. We strongly recommend the Catwalk if things are going slowly. Or another bypass option. 
 
The 75 foot Owen Chimney was referred to as the Spalding Chimney in the Bonney's guidebook from the 1960's. A more fitting name in our opinion as he led the first ascent and was the better climber.
 

The Owen Chimney


Lower Owen Chimney


Another view looking back down at the first opening in the chimney. The bottom of the chimney is by the patch of snow. This chimney may completely dry out during the summer but ice at the bottom is pretty stubborn and common. The interior of the chimney is well shaded. It may take a day or two to clean up after ice forms, or a week. Or just a couple hours as temps rise in the morning during July and August. Depends on the weather and how thin the ice is.
 
For some climbers, the very bottom of the Owen Chimney is easier to downclimb facing out with your hands stemming on the walls. It's hard to tell from this photo but the lower section of the chimney (below the 1st opening) is about 13 feet high (guesstimate). It looks like 3 feet in the photo.


 Lower half  of the Owen Chimney


The Owen Chimney - nice steppy footholds when dry



There is a short crux in the middle to upper half of the chimney. On July 20, 2023, Braydan Duree of Kuna, Idaho died after falling 40 to 50 feet from the Owen Chimney. DuRee was wearing a helmet, using a rope and leading the route when he fell. No word on what caused the fall but conditions weren't totally dry.
 
When icy, it can be a serious challenge. If it's really iced up, look for critical handholds along the northern wall which usually stays drier than the rest of the chimney. Finding dry footholds will be more tricky. Obviously, crampons come in handy under icy conditions.

Depending upon your location in the Owen Chimney, it is sometimes possible to climb out of the chimney and access the bypass to your south, or vice versa.



This guy is just above the woman in the last picture.



Top of the Owen Chimney


During a descent, free-soloing FKT runners don't want to check the Owen Chimney because it's likely to be in use, or in poorer condition. Checking an unknown option kills time. The Catwalk won't present any delays for most runners when dry. For strong climbers, we consider the chimney to be the quickest option if it's dry and empty. The tradeoff is probably a small margin of safety for a small savings in time.
 
Suddenly see lots of people? No matter their ascent route, just about everybody uses the same descent route which is the upper half of the Owen-Spalding route. You're likely to see many more people above the Owen Chimney or above the Catwalk. Most of those people are headed for the Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle.


Ledge between Owen Chimney and Sargent's


We are looking north toward the exit from the Owen Chimney. We are at the base of Sargent's Chimney. This ledge system at the base of Sargent's runs between the Great West Chimney and the Exum Ridge.

You can check out the Great West Chimney by walking to the northern end of this ledge. If you need to take a piss, it's usually a good place. There isn't much privacy on this route but there are a few nooks and crannies.


Looking back from Sargent's Chimney toward the Owen Chimney
 

Another look when dry
 
 

 Access to Sargent's Chimney - busy area but lots of space
 
 Another overview of Sargent's Chimney

 
Sargent's Chimney fans out at its base. The southern wall at the base of Sargent's points toward the Main Rap. The northern wall points toward the top of the Owen Chimney.
 
Sargent's Chimney is named after Jessie Sargent. Her husband, Frank Sargent was of the Governor of Massachusetts from 1969 to 1975. Back in the early 60s, she broke her ankle at the very bottom of the chimney in a freak accident while on a guided climb and had trouble getting off the mountain in a timely manner, taking several days. Apparently, it was sometimes called the Fissure Chimney before then.


Looking up at Sargent's southern approach


If you took the Catwalk, you end up by the photographer taking this picture as you approach Sargent's. The climbers are heading for the rap. From the ledge at the bottom of Sargent's, the easiest path into Sargent's is usually along the northern side. It's mostly a scramble. The southern side is also pretty easy when dry.


The Hidden Exit


The alternative Hidden Exit out of Sargent's is the most common ascent line. It's near the middle of the Sargent's Chimney in a small alcove. It was the original line taken by the Owen-Spalding party (led by Spalding).

If climbers are not using Sargent's Hidden Exit, they will climb up the main chimney. Usually they follow a line toward the Hidden Exit but stay in the main chimney. Once they pass the alcove for the Hidden Exit, they will be looking at two common options in the upper half of the main chimney: the left & right sides of the chimney. We think they are pretty close in terms of difficulty. Choose one that looks good for you.

Once climbers reach the rap slings in the upper chimney, they will find an opening on the north side of the chimney. Most exit at this first opening to a nice ledge that takes them to the top of the Hidden Exit variation. The actual chimney continues a little further up the mountain. You can climb to the very top and find an exit to your left or right but most people exit at the first opening and walk by the top of the Hidden Exit, or the Three Stooges (on a ledge above).
 
Since the main chimney is often used for rappelling and because guides sometimes belay clients down the Hidden Exit, you will need to decide what line of travel looks best for you once you arrive if it's busy.
 
There is a always a chance of rockfall from climbers above you in the main chimney. Rockfall in this chimney is not as common as you might think. Given that this is the main route off the mountain for almost everyone, one would expect more rolling rocks. It is a threat that you need to consider, however. Pick lines that offer some protection if climbers are above you. Or wait for the threat to pass.

Let's examine the Hidden Exit in more detail.


The alcove containing the Hidden Exit


This corner in the alcove requires extra care on the descent. Pay careful attention to all the possible holds during an ascent. Try a few. This will help with the descent. There is an often-overlooked foothold near the child's upper body. It is truly useful during a descent for us. There are plenty of  holds but it's funky to get down quickly.

Cannon is wearing the light blue jacket. We are pretty sure Cannon was 8-years-old at the time the photo was taken. Her dad is above her. 
 
Just below the woman on the right is "The Bathtub"


She needs to step over the bathtub or go through it and reach the wall on the other side. Several ways to do that. She can go high on the boulder to her left or stem across the wall to reach the other side of the boulder.


A view of the middle part of the Hidden Exit


The climber in the yellow shirt is in the small and short chute that extends to the top of the Hidden Exit.

Let's take a look at a variation of the Hidden Exit that some climbers might find fairly easy, and useful if the area is busy:



The climber in the blue jacket by the white arrow is next to a variation of the Hidden Exit. You are climbing up a very short wall to a nice ledge/slope (all unseen in photo). Easier with sticky shoes but not always needed, sketchier to downclimb. We use it when guides are belaying clients down the Hidden Exit, or anytime it's a fustercluck.

You can go up either side of the chute or the center but the northern corner is usually quicker


 



Let's take a closer look at Sargent's upper chimney.


Sargent's Rap.


This is the exit location that most climbers will utilize if they climbed directly up Sargent's Chimney. Sargent's Chimney actually continues for a short distance further up the mountain. The arrow is pointing toward the summit. Some will climb in that direction but most exit on the ledge where the photographer is standing which is the same ledge as the two climbers in the red and orange jackets. The ledge runs to the top of the Hidden Exit. This photo was taken on Aug 4, 2012. Pretty dry.
 
Take that ledge out of Sargent's and go past the top of the Hidden Exit. Climbers will turn right toward the summit as an easy path presents itself. There is literally a straight line to the summit if you choose to take it. Some climbing parties with gear will drop the climbing gear somewhere around here and scramble the rest of the way to the summit.

Let's look down Sargent's Chimney from the rap station.


Looking down Sargent's Chimney (Middle Main Chimney)


The crux of Sargent's Chimney is by the bulge in the middle of the image - both sides of the bulge can be tricky for novice climbers to tackle quickly. We feel that the south side is easier if you don't have sticky shoes, or if you are short; however, none really knows what's easier for you. It's not difficult climbing but the best holds aren't always obvious at first glance. The ascent is easier than the descent (the holds are more obvious).


Another look


Looking down from the area near the upper exit from the chimney.


Another look from below
 
 The downclimbing climbers are coming from the Hidden Exit area.


In the image above, the ascending climbers are heading straight up the main chimney and they are just below the crux. They choose the right side. Six free-soloing climbers were in the chimney (including photographer). It is not unusual to see that many free-soloing climbers on the mountain but six in one spot is not too common.
 

Overview of path to summit
 
As you can see, it's a pretty straight shot to the summit after passing the Hidden Exit. But, you may want to zig-zag around features.



Parties sometimes drop their climbing gear here and scramble to the summit. Certainly not all.

Go northish after exiting Sargent's or its Hidden Exit and turn right as soon as it is easy to do so. It's  an obvious line when you see it. The climber using the Blue variation is simply taking an easier zig-zag around some rock. This is common between here and the summit. The direct line is the Red variation shown above.
 

Follow a straight line to the summit or zig-zag around rock features




The Three Stooges is not a feature you will recognize on the descent unless you're paying very close attention and looking back up after passing it. It is just a short distance above Sargent's Hidden Exit.

If you expect to climb the Upper Exum route at some point, it's useful to know that you can bail from the summit ridgeline after passing the Upper Exum's Boulder Problem in the Sky. Head northwest along a very easy line that takes you under the face of The Three Stooges. It is one of several escape lines for climbers on the Upper Exum route.


 Pretty easy scramble when dry - follow the 'wall' on your south side.  
 
 
A 'wall' of rock will be on your right left side for part of the way as you ascend toward the Slabby Wall (seen below).


The Slabby Wall


The center crack of the Slabby Wall points toward the summit and back toward Sargent's Hidden Exit. Remember that.
 
A feature called the Horse is a false summit. It's the big mound of granite at the ridgeline and to the right of the center crack in the photo. Switchback around the Slabby Wall or climb its center crack. 

There is a small ledge along the top of the southern half of the Slabby Wall. That small ledge is often used as part of any switchback.

Upon a descent, if you were at the southern end of the Horse, just scramble down to the Slabby Wall and you'll find the ledge at the very top of the slabs.


Switchback option shown in pink


Don't worry about taking an exact line on any switchback. Make it as long or short as you want. Or climb by the crack. In the above picture, you can clearly see the Horse which is the false summit mentioned previously.
 
Since we have the above photo in front of you, the next photo will show you the other side of the Horse. The "other side" meaning the eastern side. Sometimes it is easier to travel under the eastern aspect of the Horse to gain or depart the summit. It might be a good option for kids under poor conditions. Just depends. You cross under the southern aspect of the Horse at the ridgeline and then scramble under the eastern aspect to reach the summit. See below....
 
 
Variation around eastern aspect of the Horse


Back to the standard OS route on the western aspect......


Slabby Wall switchback option - many options

Climber in shade along switchback


Slabby Wall as seen from the small ledge atop its southern half - looking WSW


These climbers are cutting short a longer switchback option.


Climbing the Center Crack and outside it


All soloing


Slabby Wall as seen from the small ledge atop its southern half - looking NNE


 Switchback ledge atop the slabs - looking SSW


Scramble to the summit once off the Slabby Wall's ledge.

The last scramble to the summit will probably include a few climbing moves if you don't know the easiest way. It's not difficult climbing. Many variations to the NE. You are heading just to the north of the Horse.

SUMMIT


Looking Southish


Looking Northish - probably June. Not sure



Her first time up, his second. It was a date.


Neither were climbers, both soloed. Height, strong legs and strong arms help her sail up the OS with ease, speed and confidence. She was on the college rowing team. If we remember correctly, big if, this was about a 10-hour round-trip. It was a date not a race. She worked at the Teton Science School that summer. He worked at Jack Dennis. That's wildfire smoke in the background. August 7th, 2017



DOWNCLIMB

 
The hard part isn't over. You need to get back down safely. And back to the trailhead. In 2017, Evan Pack, 33, of Lehi, UT summited the Grand Teton and was beginning to descend the mountain when he lost his footing directly below the summit and fell approximately 20 feet. He suffered serious injuries requiring evacuation.

Once you're back at the Slabby Wall, look for its center crack. As stated before, it points down toward Sargent's Hidden Exit. Scramble down the easiest descent line (overall straight line) until the easier scrambling comes to an end. Look for Sargent's or its Hidden Exit to your south. Downclimb either variation.


Descending in January


The above photo has Guide Greg Collins in back, his client in the middle, and Dan Carson in front. Andrew Carson thinks he took the photo in 2008. Andrew posted it on Mountain Project. Andrew Carson used to own JHMG and he guided many winter climbs. His career took him into real estate, conservation work, climbing, and the non-profit world. He participated in Paul Petzoldt’s very first course at the National Outdoor Leadership School in 1965. He and his wife Nancy moved to Wilson, WY, in the late ’60’s.

Nowadays, winter or winter-like ascents are mostly for ski mountaineers. Alpine mountaineering in the Tetons during the winter without skies has lost much of its luster and public interest. Personally, we have no desire to climb when it's cold from sunrise to sunset nor do we have any desire to pack skis all the way up the mountain. We dislike packing lunch. Skis are a great way to cover the approach when snow covers the ground, however.


The Main Rappel to the Grand Teton's Upper Saddle

 
If you look closely, you can see that rapping from the bolted rings adds considerable distance to any rope thrown toward the direction below the sling (thrown south) compared to a rope off the sling. The photographer is looking S-SE.

Ropes thrown directly below the bolted rings will need to be much longer than those thrown from the sling because the landing zone slopes downhill. The highest part of the landing zone is below the sling's south side (not directly below the sling's setup). Again, most people use the sling with a dynamic 60m rope thrown slightly south.


Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle Area
 
 
All those small white arrows in the above picture point to climbers. 
 
A fast-moving free-soling climber will take less time to reach the Upper Saddle than someone who needs to set up a rap. This can be a real advantage if bad weather is moving in or the rap is backed up.


Main Rap as seen from the 2nd setup of the secondary 2x70' alternative raps


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Owen-Spalding via Owen Chimney (red dots)
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The Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding Climbing Route as seen from above. Click to Enlarge
 


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Different angle on the Owen-Spalding Route


Larger Image - Open in new tab or click to enlarge.
 
 


Mt. Moran, Mt. Saint John, Jackson Lake, Mt Owen, and the Grand Teton as seen from The Enclosure. CLICK TO ENLARGE


Turn around and go bag the Enclosure (the western spur off the Grand Teton's Upper Saddle) if conditions are really poor on the Grand Teton. The Enclosure has nice views. It's a funky scramble and it still requires your full attention but its a quick easy scramble. You can reach it from about 100 feet below the Upper Saddle by heading to the N-NW from the top of the Central Rib.


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Enjoy Safe Climbing