The 2017 Grand Teton Climbing Season

Winter Diversions

Climbing Information: 307-739-3604
Backcountry Camping Permits: 307-739-3309
Jackson Hole Road Conditions & Closures 

~ Forecasts & Observations ~

The NWS is updating their website on March 7, 2017. Some links may not function until we update them.

BTAC Avalanche Forecast
  BTAC Field Observations
NWS's Snow Avalanche Guidance
M-F's Grand Teton's Summit Forecast 13,775'
NWS's Lower Saddle Hourly Forecast 11,600'
NWS's Lower Saddle 5-Day Forecast
NWS Rec. Forecast for GTNP
 (summer only)
 NWS's Forecast for JH
MW's Forecast for JH

~ Observations ~


News & Events: 26-year-old John “Jack” Fields Jr, a Jackson resident, died Feb 15th after falling 1,400 vertical feet near the Amora Vida Couloir on the south side of the South Teton. Jack was trying to access the couloir but he wasn't familiar with the area.

Alex Puccio and Nathaniel Coleman take the 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship in Salt Lake City, UT, on Feb 4th. USA Climbing hosted the event. You can replay the finals on YouTube.

The Red Rock Rendezvous is March 24 - 27. The International Climbers' Festival in Lander, WY, is July 12-16. It looks like every hotel room in Jackson Hole is sold out (or holding out) around Aug. 21st, which happens to be the day of the total solar eclipse.
 Spring climbing starts in April

Seasonal snowfall totals equaled 434 inches on Feb. 13, 2017 at the JHMR, with a snow depth of 135 inches at the upper mountain. Also in mid-February, 30+ inches of water was recorded in the mountain snowpack near 9000 feet. We are on course for an icy & sketchy start to the summer climbing season; but, one never knows until it arrives. It could get worse.

~ A Few Trip Reports ~
April Through October

All of our images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit purposes. We don't really care who uses our images if they are used to assist climbers; however, we reserve the right to make sure that privilege isn't abused.

Grand Teton Climbing Routes - Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding
New Route Photos for 2017

~ Other Trip Reports ~

SummitPost  Owen-Spalding via Catwalk
SP  Owen-Spalding via Owen Chimney
SP  Upper Exum
MountainProject  Owen-Spalding
MP  Upper Exum

 Tristan's Teton Aerial Photos
Jack's Teton Aerial Photos

~ OS & UXM YDS Class Rating ~

Let's state the obvious. Everyone experiences a climb differently. The Owen-Spalding route may feel like a 5.11 climb if you're 80-years-old but it may feel like scramble if you're Adam Ondra. A skier with a heavy pack climbing over ice and snow is facing a far greater challenge than a free-soloing climber on dry terrain. Both of these routes are considered to be appropriate for novice climbers under good conditions; however, they have both taken the lives of professional climbers — usually under poor conditions but not always.

The Owen-Spalding route is rated a 5.4 on the Yosemite Decimal System. It involves climbing on rock that has very good holds when dry and on a route that's easily protected. It requires your full attention to the environment and your climbing. The Owen-Spalding is not a sustained 5.4 climb. Many areas are just a scramble. Most physically fit individuals should be able to climb the OS with no previous rock climbing experience while using only natural ability and good judgment when conditions are dry. For some, good judgment might mean safety gear and a lead climber.

The Upper Exum route is rated a 5.5. Compared to the OS, it involves slightly steeper climbing with good holds which are often smaller and not always obvious. The route has more 5.+ climbing than the OS. The majority of the route is easily protected. The Upper Exum is not a sustained 5.5 climb. A few areas are just a scramble and the majority of the climb is not a 5.5. Free-soloing this route with no previous climbing experience is not recommended (try the OS first) but that's not to say that it can't be done.

There are plenty of opportunities to cover more challenging terrain along these routes should you choose to do so. For example, there are many ways to travel through chimneys and variations along these routes are abundant. Some variations cover less challenging terrain.

The Grand Teton has a long history of accepting moderately fit and very determined individuals to its summit. Most are camping overnight and roping up for a guided climb of the Owen-Spalding route. A few will attempt a single-day ascent by themselves. Some will turn around. Some will summit. Whether you find these routes difficult or easy, climbing the Grand Teton is an adventure that most of the world's 7 billion people will never experience.

~ Backcountry Camping Information ~

Most free-soloing climbers are just out for the day and not camping; nonetheless, many climbers enjoy overnight camping. There are several camping zones in Garnet Canyon but only three that really cater to Grand Teton Climbers. Water is available at all of the camping zones. You should probably read up on the regulations for Garnet Canyon and take a look at your camping zone options - PDF before making any decisions.

The Caves Camping Zone is at 9700'. It's protected from the wind, it's in the trees, it's about 1.5 miles from the Lower Saddle, clean spring water is close by, and you get to listen to Spalding Falls tumble below you as you fall asleep. The number of tent sites is limited. You must pack out all human waste from the Caves. The Morainal Camping Zone is at 10,800'. There are plenty of tent sites here. There are no food-storage boxes, however. You need to bring bear-proof storage containers. The wind can blow pretty hard at the Moraines but it's not as bad as the saddle.  The Lower Saddle's Camping Zone is at 11,600'. Many climbers enjoy the wind-beaten saddle for the views and it's proximity to the summit. There is a ranger hut at the saddle and a hut used by Exum Mountain Guides. There are several tent sites. You must pack out all human waste from the saddle. Other camping zones are further away from your destination and not recommended for those climbing the Grand.

Backcountry reservations for the summer season are being accepted at between the first Wednesday in January (starting 8 am MST) and May 15. Customers will be able to view backcountry campsite availability in real-time and apply for reservations accordingly. You will be charged a $35 non-refundable processing fee for each trip upon completion of your reservation.

The park will reserve up to one-third of each camping zone in advance and save two-thirds of each zone for those who wish to get a first-come, first-served permit in person one day before the start of a backcountry trip (walk-in permit). Those who do not secure an advanced reservation may still apply for a walk-in permit. During peak season (July and August), competition for these walk-in permits is high. There is a $25 fee for each walk-in backcountry permit. The whole reservation system seems designed to fit the needs of the NPS and not BC campers but it is what it is.

Any summer backcountry permit involving technical climbing or mountaineering and any backcountry permit for Garnet Canyon must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. They are open early June through early September. Winter campers need to call 307-739-3309. Typically, winter campers will pick up permits from the administration building behind the Moose Post Office during business hours M-F, or from a ranger on the weekends after calling park dispatch.

The American Alpine Club's Climbers' Ranch in GTNP opens June 10th, 2017, and it will close on September 11, 2017.

We have very little faith that the data calculated by GTNP for anything is an accurate representation of anything. They have a history of questionable data collection methodologies and analysis. Of course, sometimes the government just lies; nonetheless, this backcountry data certainly reflects peak visitation times.

According to park staff, approximately 10,000 climbers came to scratch the Tetons in 1991. The Jackson Hole News & Guide reported that only 4000 or so were climbing the Grand in 2010. That would be about 33 climbers per day over a 4 month period. Compare that to 25 climbers reaching the summit of the Grand during the entire year of 1934. No one really knows how many climbers visit these days because climbers are no longer required to check in with the park service unless they are backcountry camping. There is a counter along the climbers' trail that counts all foot traffic but the NPS doesn't share that data online. Sharing information might expose them to unpleasant questions.

Wilderness Climbing Ethics
Backcountry Camping Information
Backcountry Camping Brochure (2016 PDF)
Backcountry Camping Zone Maps

~ The Guide Books ~

A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range 'The Bible'
Its presentation is a little dated.
Teton Classics
Teton Rock Climbs
Select Peaks of Greater Yellowstone
Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park
Find books at your library

All books are available at the Teton County Library and Some older and fascinating guide books are also available.

The former head climbing ranger for GTNP, Renny Jackson, co-authored 'A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range' with Leigh N. Ortenburger. Nowadays, Renny occasionally guides for Exum. Leigh died in the Oakland & Berkeley Hills fire of 1991. He was a mathematician for GTE's Sylvania and began climbing in the Tetons in the late 1940s.

~ Local Climbing Shops ~

Teton Mountaineering - (Google)
...sells & rents gear
Moosely Mountaineering - (Google)
...sells & rents gear
Skinny Skis - (Google)
...clothes, packs, some gear
High Country Outfitters - (Google)
...mostly clothes, packs, hunting gear
Teton Backcountry Rentals - (Google)
...rents climbing & BC gear

~ Local Climbing Guides ~

Exum Mountain Guides
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
Wilderness Adventures (Programs for Teens)

Unauthorized guiding or participating in an unauthorized commercial climb is illegal in Grand Teton National Park.

The majority of Americans could never afford a commercially guided climb with the concessionaires of Grand Teton National Park. The target demographic of the climbing concessionaires is very white & very wealthy. The only time Scott Guenther, GTNP's head climbing ranger, climbed the Grand in 2016 was when a contingent of chauffeured VIP's happened to be on the mountain. For guides and rangers, those VIP's were like the bosom of Kate Upton. Perhaps David Vela will lead a group from East St. Louis next year and let 'em sleep in the ranger hut. David is "especially passionate about making our national parks more relevant to diverse populations" according to the NPS.

Climbing by yourself used to be illegal in GTNP. In the 1930's, when Paul Petzoldt was running the first guiding concession in Grand Teton National Park, climbing alone was prohibited. Apparently, Paul (video) was collecting $8/day for a guided climb when he started. He increased that to $12.50 during the Great Depression. By the way, accounting for inflation, that $8 a day for a climb with Paul would cost about $132 today.

 ~ Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers ~

The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers are an encouraging resource for unguided climbers of all abilities. As one might expect, they can be overly conservative when dishing out advice to people they don't know. And despite having concessionaires in the mountains everyday during the summer, the rangers don't always have up-to-date information on climbing conditions along the most popular routes. Nonetheless, the climbing rangers often have invaluable insights related to route finding & cruxes on climbs in the Teton Range.

A stop by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station is a good start to any adventure. You can give them a call at 307.739.3343, 8-5pm MST during the peak of the summer, or email then at:

Occasionally, rangers act as if it's a burden to do their job and they can be quick to criticize, and sometimes fine, unguided parties who get into trouble in the Tetons while ignoring the obvious failures of guides associated with their concessionaires. Tunnel vision can happen when you are too close to a situation and you fail to step back and get a little perspective.

Search and Rescue
Accidents & Mountain Rescue
Search & Rescue Operations
Jenny Lake Ranger History
Acceptable Risk

~ Telephone Numbers ~

Climbing Information: 307-739-3604
 Camping Information: 307-739-3603
Visitor Information: 307-739-3300
WY Road Condn: 1-888-WYO-ROAD  (or 511)
Backcountry & River Information 307-739-3602
GTNP Lost & Found 307.733.3350
GTNP Emergency Dispatch 307.739.3301
Jenny Lake Ranger Station 307.739.3343
Summer: 8-5 pm. In winter call 307.739.3309
Moose Visitor Center 307.739.3399
Winter Hotline 307.739.3399
Public Affairs Office 307.739.3393
Moosely Mountaineering 307.739.1801
Dornan's in GTNP (307) 733-2415
Climber's Ranch (in GTNP) 307.733.7271
Weather NWS 1-800-211-1448
GTNP Weather Report 307.739.3611

GTNP's Teton Interagency Dispatch is staffed 24/7 between June & September. They are staffed between 6 and 10pm during the rest of the year. Keep 307-739-3301 in your phone in case of an emergency in GTNP (or call 911). Customers who use Verizon, AT&T, Sprint, and T-Mobile can text 911 in Teton County, WY. Calls to 911 go to Teton County Dispatch (307-733-2331) and not GTNP Dispatch (307-739-3301).

Climbers at or above the Lower Saddle may have their 911 calls directed to Teton County Dispatch in Idaho (208-354-2323). Teton County in Idaho does not have the ability to accept 911 text-messages. Most cell phones can reach towers from the summit of the Grand Teton. Making a call from the North Fork of Garnet Canyon can be difficult. A text message might be easier to send. The first emergency call from a cell phone was probably on Aug. 18, 1994, after a rappel anchor failed and a person fell 200 feet while on the Exum Ridge.

~ Climbers ~

Paul Petzoldt, with no climbing experience, first climbed the Grand in 1924 at the age of 16 while wearing cowboy boots. In 1931, an 18-year-old Glenn Exum borrowed a pair of leather-cleated football shoes two sizes too big from Paul and went on to on-sight and free soloing the Upper Exum route. He leaped across the exposure at the end of Wall Street. ''We did everything wrong,'' Mr. Petzoldt said. Today, they would probably be ticketed by the park rangers for “creating a hazardous condition” with their bold ground-breaking adventures. 

Like many of today's climbers, Petzoldt was eager to document his climbs. The first known movie of an ascent on the Grand was in 1930 when Petzoldt guided a party of three men to the summit and they "Took 'movies' all the way". Where those movies ended up is a mystery. A year later in 1931, Paul guided another party that filmed their climb and you can watch the classic 1931 Grand Teton climbing video on Forrest McCarthy's YouTube channel. Nowadays, there may be a dozen people filming their climbs on any given summer morning. You can find 1000's of images, videos, and trip reports all over the Internet.
Making the rest of us look & feel old.

U.S. Olympic ski team member Laura McCabe was bringing up the rear with the next generation on June 28th, 2015. Laura was married to Sean McCabe. The young adults were headed for the Upper Exum. If we heard correctly, Dashe McCabe climbed the GT at 7-years-old in 2013.

Kira Brazinski was busting loose on the summit in 2016 with a handstand. Ms. Brazinski has only one fully functioning leg.

The youngest person that we know of to solo the Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding route, or any route, is Greta Jensen, who was 7-years-old at the time and on her third attempt. Peter Eubank climbed the Owen-Spalding route at the age of 6. It is often reported that he was 5 but he climbed Teewinot at 5, not the Grand. Beo Charette climbed the Upper Exum in 2014 when he was 6. Between 1956 & 1958, Jeff Lowe (age 7), Greg Lowe (age 8), and Mike Lowe (age 10) all climbed the Exum Ridge with their father Ralph. A 13-year-old named Jay P. Bartlett of Ogden, UT reached the summit on July 15th, 1933 with Paul Petzoldt as the guide, and in a single day from the valley floor. Hayden Wyatt climbed and skied the grand at 14 with his dad, Rick. 80-year-old Bob Riggs reached the summit in 2007 with Molly Loomis guiding.

Three former University of Montana students saw the Grand Teton on a map in 1923 and decided to climb it. Dave DLap, Quin Blackburn and Andy DePirro made the third verified ascent of the Grand Teton with no climbing experience, no gear, and no knowledge of the area — free-soloing and on-sighting the Owen-Spalding route in a single day back when there was no climbers' trail (FYI: the Owen party climbed twice). They started at 7 a.m., reached the summit at 5:55 p.m., and at 11 p.m. they got back to timberline by moonlight and slept. They had a Eastman 2A Brownie Kodak camera to document their climb. Two days later, Eleanor Davis became the first woman to climb the Grand Teton with Albert Ellingwood guiding.
 Geraldine Lucas with Paul Petzoldt

In 1924, Geraldine Lucas became the second woman to the summit. She was 58 (or 59) and woefully out-of-shape but tough and determined. You'll walk by Geraldine's old homestead if you take the Burned Wagon Gulch trail from the Climbers' Ranch.
Nancy Stevens at the Crawl

In 2012, 51-year-old Nancy Stevens became the first totally blind woman to summit. Among other highlights in her life, she also skied in the 1998 Winter Paralympics. Teton Adaptive Sports teamed up with Exum Mountain Guides to guide Ms. Stevens. Ryan Burke, with TAS, suggested the ascent after a single-pitch climb in Jackson.
Craighead Family photo of
Margaret Smith Craighead

Margaret was on the first manless ascent of the Grand Teton in 1939. It took them 4 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit from the Lower Saddle. By the age of 16 she had climbed most of the major peaks in the Teton range. 1939 was the same year that 40-year-old Joe Hawkes made his 5:21 FKT round-trip. By today's standards, it's not an uncommon time for middle-aged runners. You can still peruse the old GTNP Summit Registers on Paul Horton's great website and learn about the famous and not-so-famous climbers in the Tetons.
'Stearnie' Clarence Stearns - John Schwartz - Jim Huidekoper Sr
Around 1960

Jim Huidekoper owned JHMG from about 1970 to 1975. Got an old photo? Send it our way and we'll post it to our archives. We're always looking for nice photos that inspire others and photos that capture the thrill of climbing in the Tetons.

~ Published Distances ~

4.1 miles Platforms Camping Zone
4.7 miles Meadows Camping Zone
5.5 miles Petzoldt's Caves Camping Zone
6.2 miles Morainal Camping Zone
7.0 miles Lower Saddle
It's 2,172 feet to the Summit from the Lower Saddle (elevation change, not distance)

We have no idea if the distances are correct.

~ How Long Will It Take To Climb The Grand Teton ~

If you're not free-soloing, it may seem like forever. We'll assume you're traveling light, you know the route, you're acclimatized, conditions are good, you're fit, and you're free-soloing. Experienced climbers who are walking will usually give themselves 5 hours to summit from the Lupine Meadows trailhead.

We're betting that you can easily clock a 7-hour round-trip on the Grand Teton if, out at Teton Village, you can reach the JHMR's Tram on Rendezvous Mountain from the parking lot (4,139 ft elevation gain) using all the trail shortcuts in under 90 minutes. And we like to guesstimate that if you can hike up Jackson's Snow King Mountain in 30 minutes (1,571 ft elevation gain) then you can make a round-trip on the Grand Teton during summer daylight hours while walking at a nice pace. If you can top out on Snow King in under 23 minutes, then a 6 hour round-trip is possible.

As another time reference for runners on two longer courses up the same mountains, take a look at Stephen Mulherin's race times during the 2016 Snow King Hill Climb & the Rendezvous Mountain Hill Climb. He clocked in at 00h20m49s during the Snow King race and then he punched a time of 1h05m15s up Rendezvous. Stephen's round-trip on the Grand Teton sits at 3h00m34s.

Groups usually take much longer than individuals. Of course, there are a few individuals who set out on a one-day adventure and take 24 hours to finish. There's nothing wrong with taking 24 hours if you're prepared to do so. No one knows how long it will take you to climb the Grand Teton.

~ What Time Should I Leave ~

During the summer, many groups on a single-day round-trip will leave the Lupine Meadows' parking area around midnight. The park's concessionaires (Exum & JHMG) start their climbs between 3 & 4 in the morning from their high camps near 11,600' in order to summit and return to camp before noon. Most free-soloing climbers leave Lupine Meadows near sunrise. Obviously, they need to be fast enough to get off the summit block before afternoon thunderstorms become a safety hazard. Free-soloing climbers may leave later in the day if afternoon thunderstorms are not a threat.

What time you leave depends upon your preference for warmth, sleep, solitude, and your choice to free-solo or rope up. It also depends upon your skill set, the environmental conditions, and your acclimatization to the elevation. It is colder in the morning and you're more likely to find verglas. A later start gives ice a chance to burn off as temperatures rise. Spring skiers & climbers often need to get up and off the mountain before the snow becomes too unstable for safe & efficient travel.

Assuming they have lost sleep, climbers starting at midnight are less alert than someone leaving the trailhead at sunrise and they get more tired as the day rolls along. That can be a safety hazard as can route-finding in the dark.  If you don't mind a cold, dark, early-morning ascent then you can certainly follow the slow moving climbing concessionaires, or any other party, if they are on a route you wish to climb. Those early starts make for some nice photography.

~ The Best Time Of Year To Climb ~

Between mid-July and mid-to-late August — if you're looking for dry conditions, long days, and warm temperatures. The actual 'best time' will fluctuate within that time period. Low overnight temperatures after a rain storm can leave parts of the mountain covered in ice for an unknown amount of time. And winter-like storms can blast through the Tetons at any time of year so there are no guarantees. You should find nice conditions by mid-July, or earlier, if it was an average winter & spring in terms of precipitation. The month of August is a prime time for forest fires in the western US. The fire season is unpredictable so keep a close eye on the fire conditions in the western US and Canada before making plans to visit.

The steep sun-baked climbing routes are often in better shape than the approach as we start summer. The Upper Exum tends to clean up fairly quickly. Sometimes the Owen-Spading route never completely cleans up; nonetheless, free-soloing climbers will usually find suitable conditions for safe & efficient travel on the OS by mid-July. Plenty of climbers free-solo with ice and snow underfoot but non-climbers or novice climbers usually don't head out under those conditions. As always, you can check with the climbing rangers about conditions on any route you wish to climb. They can also give you an estimated time frame for a dry climbers' trail once the summer season begins

Many climbers prefer the less crowded shoulder seasons. June is warm, the days are long, and the snow-covered mountains with the green valleys below look their best. September & October can provide wonderful climbing but you need to have greater flexibility in your schedule due to the ever-changing conditions. Once we roll past mid-September, the mountain is pretty empty. November is usually a poor time to climb but in 2016 we had a week of nicer-than-usual fall climbing conditions. Skiers now crowd Garnet Canyon during the winter when conditions are favorable and many (compared to 1990's) are headed for the Grand. April is often better than May in terms of conditions & weather but it varies from year-to-year. Early-season melt off, and freeze & thaw cycles, tend to really get going at higher elevations in May & June. This means new ice is forming and old ice is being exposed.

~ Fastest Known Round-Trip Times on the Grand Teton ~

~ FKT for Men ~

Andy Anderson, 2h53m02s, August 22, 2012
(1:48:02 up, 1:05:00 down)
Kilian Jornet, 2h54m01s, August 12, 2012
Stephen Mulherin, 3h00m34s, 2015
Bryce Thatcher, 3h06m, August 26, 1983

~ FKT for Women ~

 Emilie Forsberg, 3h51m, August 11, 2012

 Note: Kilian & Emilie ran together on Emilie's record time.

Anton, who was out running the Grand with Kilian, took the FKT for Wyoming's highest peak, Gannett, on September 18, 2012: 8h46m32s car-to-car from Green River Lakes.

Kilian Jornet had the least experience on the Grand of all the FKT runners. His controversial off-trail shortcuts on the approach probably saved him a minute or so but they cost his FKT some credibility. Nonetheless, he would have beaten the previous record held by Thatcher without shortcuts and he might trade FKT's with Andy Anderson on any given weekend. Putting that aside, none of the runners actually took the same overall route to the summit. It's doubtful they all faced the same conditions. And it's even more unlikely that they were all hitting their life-time peak performance levels on the day of record. Of course, there are other mountaineers (& see Giir Di Mont) that could post equally impressive times but they never make it to the Tetons.

Short-cutting the approach could result in an expensive ticket from a ranger. There's not much of an issue if you are scrambling over talus or snow, and short-cutting during an emergency may be a necessity. Some shortcuts through brush and scree will actually slow you down; others may not be safe. The old climbers' trail which Thatcher took on his run up the Grand is now closed but some climbers still poach the trail. There's barely a minute's difference on the ascent between the old climbers' trail and the current one if you're in a hurry.

The distance to the top of the Grand Teton via the OS route was estimated to be 7.7 miles from the Lupine Meadows trailhead with a gain of about 7000 ft. (1.3 miles). The 7.7 miles is often disputed. Kilian's GPS watch recorded a 12 mile round-trip with shortcuts. There's no way that's correct. A GPS watch won't accurately capture every twist and turn of the trail especially if it's moving as fast as Kilian's watch. Google Earth pegs the round-trip near 13.8 miles but its measurement resolution is limited and its algorithm depends upon the user accurately mapping the trail.

~ The Grand Teton Triathlon ~

The GTT involves biking from Jackson's Town Square to Jenny Lake in GTNP, swimming from the Jenny Lake Overlook on the eastern shoreline to the western shoreline, taking the Jenny Lake Trail to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead, cruising to the top of the Grand Teton and then doing the whole thing in reverse for a total of 42 miles of biking, 2.6 miles of open water swimming, and 20 miles of hiking and climbing. This is not a sanctioned race with a set date. It's more like an FKT event to test yourself or an all-day picnic with lots of exercise. David Gonzales started the picnic. He escaped Jackson and now lives in Bozeman, Montana.

Julia Heemstra, at 42, was the first woman to complete the Grand Teton Triathlon (The Picnic) solo and unsupported. She finished in 14 hours and 47 minutes. It helps to be a former masters-level swimmer and robust climber.

Anyone who has done the Grand Teton Triathlon has experienced the power of 60°F water to remove heat from the body faster than 60°F air. Still water conducts heat away from the body approximately 20 to 25 times more efficiently than still air. An unprotected swimmer can succumb to hypothermia even in warmish water on a warm day. Unless you're a Jimmy Sorensen or swim the Trans Tahoe Relay every year, a proper wetsuit is essential for a safe swim across Jenny Lake. Participants have also towed $15 boogie boards for hauling food/clothing/shoes. They can be used for emergency purposes in case of cramping in the middle of your 1.2-mile swim. Keep in mind that using a bike on the pathways is illegal at night. You can use the park's roads. Ryan Burke probably holds the record for the GTT at 9 hrs, 57 min.

~ Grand Traverse FKT's ~

The Grand Traverse is a traverse of the Tetons’ central peaks which include Teewinot Mountain, Peak 11,840'+, East Prong, Mount Owen, Grand Teton, Middle Teton, South Teton, Ice Cream Cone, Gilkey Tower, Spalding Peak, Cloudveil Dome and Nez Perce. It starts and ends at the Lupine Meadows trailhead. The level of climbing difficulty ranges up to IV 5.8. Peak 11,840' and the East Prong are sometimes left out of the bagged peaks.

~ Records for Men ~

Nick Elson 6:30:49 - see below
 Alex Lowe 8:15 - depending on the source.

~ Records for Women ~

Julia Niles had a nice free-solo in about 16 hrs

Note: Rolando & Kim ran together on Kim's record time.

Alpinist Magazine has the total distance at 17.9 miles which sounds more realistic than Rolo's 14. An Outside Magazine story has a total elevation change over 20,000 feet. Take all those numbers with a grain of salt.

Rumor has it that the summit to the Lower Saddle was once clocked in 12 minutes by Rolo Garibotti. I'm not sure that his feet touched the ground at that speed but that remarkable (almost unbelievable) time was once reported in the now defunct website as true.

~ 2016 Grand Traverse FKT Speed Record ~

On August 16th, Canadian runner & climber Nick Elson, 32, broke the 16-year-old speed record for the Grand Traverse by nailing a time of 6:30:49. Eric Carter took some of the photos. Eric ran a round-trip up the Grand Teton and back to Lupine Meadows in under 3.5 hours on the day before Nick made his record Grand Traverse run.
Here's Nick at the Double Chimney

"I set off just after 6am and reached the summit of Teewinot in 1:23. I reached the summit of the Grand in 3:18, soloing carefully on the Italian Cracks. It was great to pass Mark @smileysproject here guiding the traverse as he had also helped me out with some great local knowledge.

I'm a fairly cautious person and I like to think that I kept the risk at a reasonable level, but as I jogged across the "catwalk" while eating a gel I did manage to elicit a plea of "please don't die" from a member of one of the nearby roped teams.

From the lower saddle, I was able to make good time. I think that having rambled around in the mountains since childhood has made me pretty comfortable on the type of 3rd and 4th class terrain that is prevalent on the traverse.

I arrived at the summit of Middle in 4:01 and Nez Perce in 5:31. I made my only routefinding mistake descending, but before long was kicking off some impressive rock slides going down to the meadows. When I finally hit the smooth trail, I tripped and fell flat on my face. From there I ran down the trail and mostly avoided hip-checking any hikers. I finished in a time of 6:30:49.
Nick Elson

Also in 2016: From August 1 to 3, 70-year-old Lee Sheftel of Carbondale, Colorado, completed the Grand Traverse with partner Greg Collins.

~ Visitor Centers ~

~ Social Media

~ Internet Access

Free internet access is available at many locations including the Teton County Library, all coffee shopsJackson Whole Grocer, Dornan's in Moose, the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose, some START buses, the JH-Teton County Recreation Center, McDonalds, K-Mart, Quiznos, and at the JH Airport. The Visitor Center in Jackson may also have free WiFi. There is no internet access at the Climbers' Ranch except what you can get on a smartphone.

~ The 2017 entrance fee-free days

January 16: Martin Luther King Jr. Day
February 20: Presidents' Day
April 15-16 and 22-23: National Park Week
August 25: National Park Service Birthday
September 30: National Public Lands Day
November 11-12: Veterans Day Weekend

~ Emergency Care ~

Please consider adding a First-Aid App to your smart phone.
Grand Teton Medical Clinic (summer only 9-5)
In GTNP at Jackson Lake Lodge
St John's Medical Center (SJMC) 24/7 ER
625 E. Broadway east of Town Square
SJMC Teton Village Clinic (winter only)
 Near Bridger Gondola at JHMR
Emerg+A+Care After hours call 307-733-8002
455 W. Broadway near Loaf-n-Jug
Dr. Hayse often works late & w/o appointment.
307-733-6700 269 W Broadway
American Red Cross Booklets
Wilderness First Aid (16 pages PDF)
Wilderness First Aid (121 pages PDF)

~ Hitchhiking ~

A hitchhiking Paul Petzoldt caught a ride in a Model-T to go climbing in the Tetons. Nowadays, the park rangers are obsessed with harassing hitchhikers. Hitchhiking is legal in Wyoming & GTNP. According to the the Federal Code: § 4.31 Hitchhiking, "Hitchhiking or soliciting transportation is prohibited except in designated areas and under conditions established by the superintendent." 

Hitchhiking is legal in GTNP according to the Superintendent's Compendium (2016) except under the following circumstances:  

Within two tenths of a mile (0.2mi) of an Entrance Station. Within 200 feet of a park service office building or visitor center. While holding or having a sign that is larger than 2'x2' in size. The hitchhiker must stay off the surface of the paved roadway, though a hitchhiker may stand on pavement in a paved pullout. Where vehicles may not safely pull off of the main traffic lane into a pullout or safely onto the shoulder to allow for the passengers to be received safely. During the hours of darkness, unless the hitchhiker is wearing bright (preferable reflectively enhanced) clothing. When hitchhiking behavior is deemed unsafe or a nuisance by a commissioned Law Enforcement Ranger.

See this GTNP webpage for updated information on Laws and Policies

Jackson Hole is full of busybodies. That's a recipe for great Mayberry Moments like the time in 2016 when a local resident called dispatch to report a suspicious person. A black man was hitchhiking on South Park Loop Rd. Local police responded immediately to this threat and tracked him down. They demanded to know what he was up to. Hitchhiking, apparently.

Local law enforcement caters to the imaginary irrational fears of others not only because they often share those imaginary irrational fears but because common sense often takes a backseat to the fear of inaction. Telling busybodies that hitchhiking while black is not illegal and doesn't constitute suspicious activity is too difficult for our badged boys & girls. They would rather accost a black man who is just going about his day. Unfortunately, this is nothing unusual in Jackson Hole.
 Hitchhiking while black

Speaking of law enforcement, automated license plate recognition systems are used by the federal government and local law enforcement in Teton County. The entire state of Wyoming is a speed trap: 'pull over and fish' is our 'stop & frisk'. Jackson Hole has more law enforcement officers per mile of highway than most places you will visit. JPD Twitter Feed, TCSO Twitter Feed, Highway Patrol Twitter FeedGTNP Twitter Feed, Teton County Jail Mugshots.

~ Biking ~

The pathways are only open to bikes between 1/2 hour before sunrise & 1/2 hour after sunset. Pathways run from the Town of Jackson to Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park.

~ Winter in GTNP ~

All GTNP visitor centers are closed for the winter. Park information can be obtained by visiting the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center in Jackson, Wyoming, or by calling 307-739-3399, 10 am - 4 pm, Mon. - Sat.

The interior park road is closed at the Taggart Lake parking area during the winter season so you must start you trip from there if you wish to climb the Grand. The Bradley Lake bridge that allows hikers access to the upper Burned Wagon Gulch is undergoing reconstruction in 2017. Contact the NPS about the status of the bridge if you wish to use it.
A few winter variations for Garnet Canyon access.

Most folks ski across Bradley Lake to access Garnet Canyon once the lakes freeze over and snow covers the valley floor. The most common winter route runs along the southern side of Garnet Creek (AKA Bradley Creek) once you're further inside Garnet Canyon. You will find a well-used skin track on the south side.

There is a slight ridgeline between Bradley & Taggart lakes that runs up Shadow Peak. You could take that ridge to the west and then go across the steep slopes at the entrance to Garnet Canyon but it's not necessarily your best option. That route needs plenty of compacted stable snow on the NE slopes and you need to know the route otherwise you'll end up in some messy terrain - it is faster if you know what you're doing. Most people just go across the lake. Choose wisely given the conditions.

If you're camping during the winter, make sure to choose a camping location that's not in a common avalanche zone. Standing trees tend to be standing because avalanches didn't wipe them out while they were growing so places like the Platforms Camping Zone will be safer than the Meadows. Greg Seftick and Walker Kuhl's bodies were found in their sleeping bags, crushed by an avalanche that buried them under more than 13 feet of snow while they were sleeping in Garnet Canyon.
Expect poor winter road conditions in GTNP.

The NPS does not put salt on the roads and it's rare to find sand. Safety First is NOT their priority but it can be yours if you slow down. The highways that WYDOT maintains aren't much better. The Town of Jackson also does a poor job. If you want to see how the pros do it, drive across the Wyoming - Idaho border. Park Rangers responded to over 50 motor vehicle accidents in GTNP between mid-Dec, 2016 and January, 2017.

WYDOT Road Conditions
WYDOT Mobile or call 511
Get Teton County Nixel Alerts via txt msg by
texting your ZIP CODE to 888777 for mobile alerts.

~ Avalanche Links ~

The local avalanche center does not forecast the avalanche hazards above 10.000'; however, reports of avalanche activity and pit reports in Garnet Canyon can sometimes be found on their website. Our general feeling about avalanche forecasts and in-field assessments for higher elevations is that they are a poor safety guide unless the threat is obviously high.

It's wise to keep in mind that the so-called backcountry experts get it wrong time and time again. They are quick to blame the inherent dangers instead of themselves. More often than not, poor judgment is to blame. Either way, the backcountry doesn't care about your skill set, intelligence, fitness, or preparation. It doesn't advertise its threats with neon arrows. Go forth with the certainty that you may not come back.

Basic avalanche courses are available in Jackson from many sources. If those are too pricey, they are, pick up a book at the Teton County Library and take advantage of the many free online resources. 

JH-BTNF Avalanche Forecast WY
JH NWS Snow Avalanche Guidance Report
JH Recent Events 
JH Snowpack Summaries

~ Snow Data ~

JHMR Rendezvous Bowl  7-Day Graph
BTAC's Big Sheet 24 Weather Hour Data

~ Skiing Links ~
Winter Closures in GTNP: YELLOW AREAS and Highlighted Roads

~ Bears ~
Next to the trail on Sept 10th.

Even though the bears we encountered were clearly accustomed to short interactions with humans and their habits seem predictable their thoughts are unknown so loitering in their comfort zone is never wise. We ran into bears on almost 90% of our summer trips up the Grand in 2016. They were well behaved. Keep in mind that a grizzly bear will defend its cubs far more aggressively than a black bear. If a black bear sends its cubs up a tree, you're in its comfort zone. Move on.  Bear Safety
If you see a specific warning sign about bears, bear spray is recommended.

Your chances of getting injured on the Grand are greater than your chances of getting injured by a bear but never underestimate the threat posed by either one. We never carry bear spray during the height of the climbing season, we don't make noise, we usually travel alone, and we listen very closely to our environment which is why we see a lot of bears.

"During interactions with humans, most bears exhibit considerable tolerance and restraint, consequently, interactions between people and bears often have no negative consequences for either, particularly if people act appropriately around bears. Habituated bears generally tolerate people in close proximity without being aggressive toward people. However, even habituated bears have a personal space that they monitor and may defend, so there are numerous examples of habituated bears injuring people when those people have pushed the bear’s tolerance too far. In 2007 one person was injured in GRTE by an otherwise well-habituated grizzly bear that perceived a threat to itself or its cubs.Grant MacHutchon

Grant has been a wildlife biologist at A. Grant MacHutchon Consulting for 28 years. You can read his 'Human-Bear Interaction Risk Assessment' study on bears in the Moose-Wilson corridor which cost the NPS $21,700 and didn't tell them anything worthy of that fee.
~ The evening speed limit in GTNP is 45 mph or lower ~

A grizzly bear was struck and killed by driver in Grand Teton National Park on October 30th, 2016. Collisions with vehicles kill over 100 large animals in GTNP, and over 1,000,000 in the USA, every year. In January of 2017, cars in Teton County were killing deer at the rate of one per day. Wyoming's Wildlife Collisions.

~ Other Stuff ~

Best of the Tetons - Outstanding Photo Blog - nice site about plants
Firearms in Grand Teton National Park.
Mammals brochure for GTNP (PDF)
Wiki on GTNP Mammals

Not all news releases are released online and climbing related NR's are often misleading.

~ Showers & Laundry ~

Showers are available at the Climbers' Ranch. Public showers and laundromat facilities are available at the Colter Bay Village and the Signal Mountain Campground. In Jackson, showers are available at the Rec. Center. The Missing Sock Laundromat is located in Smith's Plaza off Hwy 89. Another laundromat is scheduled to re-open in 2017 in the Grand Teton Plaza area behind First Interstate Bank.

~ Earthquakes ~

USGS Recent Earthquake Map for WY
Snow King Seismograph (Or Try Here)
Teton Pass Seismograph (Or Try Here)
Moose WY GTNP Seismograph 
Flagg Ranch GTNP Seismograph
Seismograph Stations USGS
Advanced National Seismic System
UU's Station List - MAP
UU's Real-Time GYA (Yellowstone) Quake Map
USGS National 2.5+ Quake Map 
USGS's 'Did You Feel It?'
New Report a Quake page
Shake Maps

~ Fire ~

Natural & prescribed forest fires can limit your view, make breathing difficult, and seriously dampen the pleasure that comes from camping, hiking, and climbing in the Teton Range. Check out the web cameras and the local air quality website to get a feel for conditions (national: The local air quality site has trouble staying operational. How smoke from fires can affect your health.
The view west.

~ Climbing Resources ~

 Alpinist Magazine
Rock & Ice Magazine
Climax Magazine
Mountain Project
Climb South Africa 
Adventure Journal
Outside Online - Climbing
The Guardian - Mountaineering
Huffington Post - Mountaineering
Climbing Buildings 
Climbing Business Journal
The Eight-Thousanders
The Access Fund
Big City Mountaineers
City Kids DC 
Cody Ice Festival
2017 24th Annual International Climbers Festival 
(on July 12-16, 2017 in Lander Wyoming)
Central Wyoming Climbing Alliance
Wyoming Outdoor Council
Lander, WY - MP
Vedauwoo, WY - MP
Devil's Tower WY - MP
Wind River Range, WY - MP
Ten Sleep Canyon, WY - MP
Grand Teton Links & Stats
Alpinist Magazine (#33) profiles The GT
Google Free-Soloing Upper Exum
Google Free-Soloing Owen-Spalding
Upper Exum Soloing Video
GTNP's e-climb of the Grand Teton
Grand Traverse  Pataclimb .com
Outside Mag  2012 Grand Traverse
We like Mark P Thomas' work...
Teton Grand Slam & Lower Exum TR
Android App for Knots 
Animated Knots Website
Mountaineers Books
Information on Climbing Shoes 
 Int’l. Climbing and Mountaineering Fedn.
Int’l. Ski Mountaineering Fedn.
Indian Mountaineering Fndn
Nepal Mountaineering Assoc.
Chinese Mountaineering Assoc.
 Union of Asian Alpine Assoc.
Climbing Fedn. of Russia
Int’l. Federation of Sport Climbing
USA Climbing
Route Setting Assoc.
List of Climbing Organizations 
Int’l. Fedn. of Mountain Guides Assoc.
American Mountain Guides Assoc.
American Alpine Club
Alpine Club of Canada 

 ~ Blogs & Podcasts ~

American Alpine Institute
Reddit Climbing

~ The Sky ~,-110.8024,15
The center line is solar noon
13:28 on June 30, 2015

In June, the sun sets in the northwest and burns the Owen-Spalding route clean, or tries to. Near the fall equinox, the sun sets almost directly in the west and the route burns off slowly. In the winter, it's a dark cold place with the sun setting in the southwest. The Upper Exum faces south so the sun hits it all the time. Garnet Canyon doesn't see too much sun during the winter because the sun is low in the southern sky for most of the day which means it's behind Nez Perce, etc.
Position of the Sun in the sky at 43° N

~ Celestial Events ~

 2017 Perihelion: Jan 4, 7:17
2017 Aphelion: July 3, 2:11
2017 Equinoxes: Mar 20, 10:28 / Sept 22, 20:02
Universal Time
2017 Solstices: June 21, 4:24 / Dec 21, 16:28
Universal Time

Subtract 6 hours from UT to get a summer MDT in Jackson. Calculator. MDT starts on Sunday, March 12, 2017 and will end at 2:00 AM on Sunday, November 5.

~ Meteor Showers Peak Nights for 2017 ~
Northern Hemisphere

January 3-4, Quadrantids
April 22-23, Lyrids
May 6-7, Eta Aquarids
July 27-28 Alpha Capricornids
August 11-12, Perseids
October 8, Draconids
October 21-22, Orionids
November 11-12, North Taurids
November 17-18, Leonids
December 13-14, Geminids
December 21-22,  Ursids
Moon Phases in GTNP

~ Celestial Links ~

Visibility: Standard Visual Range (Chart)
Current Fires
Astronomy Information for Moose, WY
Wyoming Star Gazing
NASA Earth Observatory
Sky Map for Jackson Hole
JH Clear Sky Chart
Clear Sky Google Map
NASA Night Sky Network (Home page)
Current Moon Phase Chart
 The North Star - Polaris Wiki
NPS Night Skies
Sky at a glance
See the Northern Lights from Jackson Hole
3-Day Aurora Borealis Forecast &
 30 Minute Forecast
Aurora Wiki

We find that the times can be off by 5 minutes.
For a more complete list, follow the link below
Spot the International Space Station in GTNP
ISS Webcam ...if dark, ISS is on dark side of earth
Over 200 miles high & 17,000 MPH
The ISS disappears when the sun no longer reflects off its exterior.

You have a better chance of seeing Old Faithful from the Grand Teton if you're looking in the morning when the air is cool and clear. You may even see it with the naked eye.

~ The 2017 Total Solar Eclipse ~

 Space Images
The eclipse's path across the USA

NASA's State Maps for the Total Solar Eclipse

Information on the eclipse in Jackson. Notice that the total eclipse covers an area between the north end of GTNP and the Town of Alpine, WY. If you are in Teton Village, a partial eclipse will begin at about 10:17am on Monday, August 21st. Just after 11:34 am, the Moon will block all of the Sun’s surface. For about 2 minutes and 19 seconds there will be a total eclipse of the sun. You will see the sun's glow behind the moon. If you are on top of a mountain you will see the moon's shadow upon the earth and beyond the shadow toward areas with greater sunlight. The total eclipse will be followed by another partial eclipse until about 1pm. See below. You might want to AVOID being in Jackson Hole during the eclipse. If the weather is clear, Jackson is expecting to be overwhelmed with traffic and people. Head for the Wind River Range
Eclipse times for Teton Village

What's the height of the Grand Teton?

The 'official' NGS height is 13,775'
GTNP uses 13,770'.
The 2015 USGS map has the height between 13,680 and 13,760'.
The upper contour line is not the summit. 

We noticed this next image from the National Weather Service which shows the height of the Grand Teton at 13,781'. Funny thing about the NWS maps is that they start out with metric units until you zoom in. The metric units have the Grand at 4194 meters which is about 13,760'. As far as we know, the Grand Teton's height has never been officially observed to a high degree of accuracy & precision using modern mapping tools such as GPS, IfSAR, LiDAR. An elevation has certainly been determined using modern techniques for mapping; however, the accuracy is unknown. For USGS topo maps, elevations are usually accurate to within half the contour line interval which means the elevation of the upper contour line on the USGS map is between 13,640' & 13,720'.,-110.802413942

~ Teton Range USGS Topo Maps ~

The first standard topographical map of the Tetons was published in 1899. The 2015 USGS 7.5 minute quadrangle maps for Wyoming are available for a free download at the USGS store. Here's a direct link to the 2015 Grand Teton 7.5 minute quadrangle. It is downloaded as a zip file from the USGS. It unpacks as a GeoPDF file. It's a layered image that contains aerial photographs, contours, etc. The 2012 GeoPDF maps did not include trails. The 2015 maps have some trails but not all. The standard PDF (much older) maps often show more trails and you can download them too. The USGS updates these GeoPDF maps on a three year cycle. There are several smart-phone apps that allow you to view the GeoPDF's. Older phones may be too slow to load and pan the images. The TIFF & JPG image files may be best for older phones and newer ones given that they currently have more details related to trails. For viewing the GeoPDF maps within Adobe Reader use the TerraGo Toolbar.

PDF's & TIFF's
Tiff images will download the fastest
USGS 7.5 min Grand Teton 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Mount Moran 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Ranger Peak 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Survey Peak 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1989 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Colter Bay 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Rammell Mountain 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Jenny Lake 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Teton Village 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1996 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Mount Bannon 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Granite Basin 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Rendezvous Peak 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1968 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Teton Pass 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1996 PDF-zip / TIFF
 USGS 7.5 min Palisades Peak 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1996 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Victor 2013 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1978 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Driggs 2013 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1978 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS 7.5 min Flagg Ranch 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1996 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS Grassy Lake Res. 2012 (GeoPDF-zip) / 1989 PDF-zip / TIFF
USGS Grand Teton Quadrangle from 1899 in a PDF-zip file

USGS Grand Teton Quadrangle from 1901 (JPG)
USGS Jackson Quadrangle from 1935 (JPG)
USGS Victor-Driggs Quadrangle from 1946 (JPG)

WY 7.5 min USGS Maps as Tiff Files (TIFF)
ID 7.5 min USGS Maps as Tiff Files (TIFF)

USGS TopoView
USGS Earth Explorer
USGS National Map Viewer 
USGS Store - & Free Downloads
USGS Wyoming Maps
NGS DataExplorer
Google Earth
Google Maps
CalTopo Mapping
Here We Go Mapping
Bing Maps
Open Street Map
Open Cycle Map
Teton County GIS

This map shows the names of various features around the Grand Teton.
 Download - 1.56MB  -  Download - 2.56MB  with a few more features.

Note that the South Couloir of the Middle Teton is often called the Chouinard Couloir. The western boundary of the South Couloir is the Chouinard Ridge as defined in A Climbers Guide to the Teton Range. It's difficult to exactly locate some features on a topo map so keep that in mind.

~ National Forest MVUM Maps ~

These are now available for your mobile device.
Avenza System Inc has an app for viewing:

2016 Bridger-Teton Motor Vehicle Use Maps
Over-Snow Vehicle Use Map (OSVUM)
 Front Section Only
Over-Snow Vehicle Use Map (OSVUM)
 Back Section Only

Caribou-Targhee National Forest Maps
MVUM &  Visitor Maps

Other Local Maps
Snow King Trail Map (PDF)
Teton Pass Trail Map (PDF)
JH Friends of Pathways Maps
Teton Valley ID, Trails & Pathways Maps
 Idaho Alpine Club Maps
Declination at GTNP 2-4-2017
 11° 33' E  ± 0° 22' 
....changing by  0° 7' W per year

~ Accidents & Safety ~

Many talented climbers have been seriously injured and killed in the Tetons. Professional guides and their clients have died while climbing here. There are times when climbers make decisions that seem reasonable but Murphy's Law plays out like a bad dream. When conditions are bad, or the weather is unstable, you should take into consideration the very real possibility that accidents will happen as you finalize your game plan - more so than under good conditions and good weather. It might be easy to handle an emergency under good conditions but near impossible under poor conditions. And a rescue under poor conditions or bad weather is never good and may not be possible.

Most climbers are more than happy to help out fellow mountaineers and the professional guides are often the first to respond to an emergency. If you need assistance, ask for it. 

"Many of our clients are exhausted and at the limits of their abilities, and they make mistakes. What this means is that our clients are trying to kill each other, they're trying to kill themselves, and they're trying to kill you. Each of us needs to remember this at all times. That's our job." Dave Carman, Exum Mountain Guides, as told in the Outside Magazine story “The House of Rock". 

If you're on a guided climb, keep in mind that every climber has a responsibility to look after their own safety and the safety of others not only because guides often make incorrect assumptions about everyone's safety but because it's your job.

"Climbing is simple. You go to the top, you have a good time, and you don’t harm other people in the process,”  Conrad Anker.

~ 2015 Accidents ~

On October 12, Millie Jimenez fell 45 feet down a rock slab in Avalanche Canyon, (GTNP NR). On August 31, Anthony McCormack slid down a rock slab while descending the South Fork of Garnet Canyon, (GTNP NR). On August 29, Justin Bodrero took a 200-foot fall over a snowfield & boulders while descending the Middle Teton,  (GTNP NR). On August 22, Tyler Strandberg and Catherine Nix fell to their death while on Teewinot, (GTNP NR). On the same day, a hiker pulls a suitcase-sized rock down on himself, while in Avalanche Canyon. Eight climbers were stranded overnight in Stettner Couloir on August 15-16, (GTNP NR). On August 11, Grand Teton National Park rangers conducted a short-haul rescue of two climbers from the Middle Teton, (GTNP NR). Two Jackson climbers, Jordan Lister & Carrie Schwartz, were injured on Saturday July 25th after taking a slide on snow & rocks while on the south face of the Middle Teton, (GTNP NR). On July 22, a dislodged boulder hit Tucker Zibilich and broke his arm while en route to the Grand Teton's Upper Saddle (13,200 feet), (GTNP NR). On July 7, Michael Polmear was climbing the Middle Teton’s Black Dike when a boulder dislodged from the mountain and struck his left arm, (JHN&G). On June 9th, Charlie Emerson was solo climbing a 4th class rated rock slab when he slipped and slid approximately 150-200 feet before coming to rest in a snowfield at the base of the rock feature, (GTNP NR). Two skiers died on Mt Moran on May 17th, (Backcountry Mag).

~ 2016 Accidents ~

On July 23, Exum Mountain Guide Gary Falk fell from the top of the Owen Spalding Rappel into Valhalla Canyon near the Black Ice Couloir, (JHN&G Story). On the same day, Rangers also responded to a rescue of a 25-year-old woman from Walker, Michigan who was hiking in the south fork of Garnet Canyon and fell on snow and was severely injured. On August 9th, two 20-year-old male climbers ascending the Petzoldt Ridge became stranded on a ledge after one of the men took a 25-foot spill. On Aug. 10th, a 30-year-old Russian man was attempting to climb 12,605-foot Mount Moran and had to be rescued after figuring out he was in over his head. He was cited for “creating a hazardous condition," (JHN&G Story). Rene Dreiling lost his life after taking a fall onto a rocky cliff band beneath steep snow fields on the north side of Mount Owen. His body was found on September 4, (JHN&G Story).
 Climber with a dislocated shoulder resting while on her way to the Lower Saddle.
This is actually a common injury. You might want to read up on resetting a dislocated joint.
Exum Mountain Guides assisting
a non-client with a blown knee.

Most injuries go unreported like muscle & tendon strains, torn ligaments, dislocated fingers, and minor cuts & abrasions. According to, the leading cause of death in Grand Teton National Park is unroped climbing or scrambling on non-technical terrain. Death by avalanche comes in second - mostly skiers. Falling on snow is the second leading cause of death for climbers. Most fatalities happen on the Grand Teton. The data isn't shared online so we're not sure how they break down the numbers. Would an unroped person who is injured on non-technical terrain be called an injured climber or an injured hiker? Would they be soloing? Their data is fairly meaningless without more context.

People will often wax-poetic about taking risks in life until their own near-death experience which, not unexpectedly, they will then use to wax-poetic about how precious life is. For some goals, evaluating risks is like gathering facts from a shadow. More than likely; however, we know the risk. We misjudge our ability to manage it or throw some caution to the wind. Our desire for adventure is nothing new nor is our propensity to make mistakes. As GTNP's lead climbing ranger Guenther admits, "I made all the same mistakes that we rescue people for now."

You can get a feel for the fantastic ways that climbers injure and kill themselves by reading the online version of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. The American Alpine Club's 2016 Accidents in North American Climbing (renamed in 2016) has some factually-challenged reporting in its story about common accidents on a Grand Teton climb but it's still a good read: Danger Zones: Grand Teton.

Local climber & writer Molly Loomis, with her late husband Andy Tyson, published an fine book on rescuing yourself from backcountry climbing mishaps. NOLS, over in Lander, WY, has many training programs related to wilderness medical care. Many wilderness medicine books may be available at your library.


Stay off the summit block in bad weather.
Don't get Summit Fever and make bad choices.
Altitude Sickness is common.
Ice is a serious danger all year long.
Falling rock is common.
Lightning is common.
Hail is common.
Dangerous wind gusts are common.
Low temperatures are common.
Wet rock is common.
Unstable snow underfoot is common.
Slips are very common.
Injuries are common.
Bears are someplace.
Avalanches are possible.
Dangerous runoff is possible.
Falling snow slabs are possible.
Falling ice is possible.
Freezing fog is possible.
Freezing rain is possible.
Death is possible.

Protect your eyes and skin from the damage of high-elevation sun exposure. The sun's intensity increases at a rate of 4-10 percent per 1000' feet above sea level. The intensity varies with the time of day, snow cover, cloud cover, your location on the Earth, etc.

Don't forget that rockfall is a serious hazard at any time but it's much more active during wet weather and freeze & thaw cycles. The day after wet weather is also a prime time for new rockfall. Human-caused rockfall is common directly below other climbers in scree fields, chimneys, raps, etc. Keep in mind that torrents of snow, rocks, and water can flush out of couloirs at any time of year.
Risk is relative ... 

~ Altitude Sickness ~

The body needs time to adjust to higher elevations. The reduced air pressure means thinner air, or less oxygen. At 14,000 ft. the air has about 43% less oxygen than at sea level for the same volume of air. With fewer oxygen molecules in every breath, the body has to work harder. As oxygen in the lungs decreases, the blood becomes less efficient at circulating it to the brain and other organs. At an altitude of 13,775 ft. (4200 m) an average person has 9% less oxygen in their blood at rest as they would at sea level. As soon as any exercise is taken, the oxygen level in the blood decreases further. Altitude sickness has stopped many climbers from ascending the Grand Teton and its effects can become a serious safety hazard. In groups, individual denial of hazardous symptoms is not uncommon. Climbers suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness or Altitude Sickness need to stop, rest, and descend if hazardous symptoms don't improve. Pregnant women should consult with a doctor before spending time above 10,000'. Pregnant women are seen climbing the Grand.

Diamox, AKA: acetazolamide, is used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. You'll need a prescription. Apparently, stuff like Viagra has also been used for the same purpose but the research is sketchy. Here's an Outside Magazine story on doping climbers. Here's another from Gear Patrol.

~ Weather ~

The NWS's recreational forecast for GTNP has a long history of inaccurate temperature & wind predictions for the Lower Saddle & the summit. We know this because we can look at actual data from the Lower Saddle's weather station and compare it to the forecast data. A forecast that's off by 7 degrees is not uncommon. Wind speeds can be off by a factor of 2. The temperatures at the summit are often near 32°F and climbers would like to know if new ice or snow is to be expected. Those conditions are difficult to estimate if the forecast is off by 7 degrees. Forecast temperatures are temperatures expected in a shaded place. It may be much hotter in direct sunlight or much colder with wind chill.

We also know that a forecast for showers may just mean a 5 minute storm that passes 10 miles to the south of the Grand Teton. It's important to examine a forecast carefully. Keep an eye out for rainfall totals. The NWS's hourly forecast shows expected precipitation totals. If the forecast shows a 60% chance of rain but only .01" of rain is expected, then you know that a big storm is not on the horizon but the odds are good that a short shower will appear somewhere in the Tetons. As we all know, a 70% chance of bad weather may never materialize while a 20% chance of bad weather does.

Sunny dry days are fairly common in the Tetons but so are afternoon thunderstorms. If the forecast discussion mentions monsoonal moisture, low pressure, or a cold front then that should raise a red flag. Those conditions can produce very unstable and dangerous weather.

Most people who look at the forecast below would reconsider their climbing plans. We examined the forecast more closely and decided it was going to be a nice day. It was.
 This was the actual forecast.
We went climbing.

The word "isolated" in the NWS forecast refers to showers that are few and far between, only 10% to 20% of the forecast area will receive measurable rainfall. "Scattered" refers to the range of 30% to 50% coverage. Neither refers to intensity, amount, or time. The NWS does forecast a rain quantity in the hourly forecast graph and if you run your mouse over the graph, you will see hourly percentages at the bottom of the graphs.

The summit block is a lightning rod.

If it starts to hail in the mountains, thunderstorms are about to bust loose. The temptation to avoid hail and rain may drive you to caves or overhangs but they can increase your odds of getting zapped. 

In 2010, 17 people decided to climb this mountain in questionable weather. The result was the largest Search & Rescue in the Park's history. And one death. In 2003, climbers on the Upper Exum were struck by lightning and one was killed. Learn from their mistakes.

There are no safe places if you are outside in a thunderstorm. You can make yourself safer. Don't group together during a storm. Stay at least 15 feet apart. Remove all metal from your body - jewelry, biners, glasses, etc. If you must rope up, try attaching the rope using something like an Alpine Girth-Hitch if that's even possible under the circumstances. Ropes will conduct electricity so there's a trade off between the fall-protection that the rope provides and the danger of it becoming a conductor that could easily kill you.

Even though most people survive a lightning strike, over 70% have permanent disabilities. The forces are similar to an IED blast and peak temperatures can reach 50,000°F. With or without lightning, climbing in the rain is a bad idea. You can read up on some other deaths from lightning strikes in the Jackson area.

~ Forecasts and Observations ~

The best forecast is issued within an hour of your departure if you plan to reach the summit within a 5 hour window. A summer forecast can change dramatically in a few hours if there is any instability in the air so a forecast that's 6 hours old may be stale. Sometimes you can get a forecast on your smartphone while at the Lower Saddle. 

Unless there are obvious threats on the horizon, we just head for the Grand after reading a forecast and keep tabs on the weather as we go. We have the advantage of knowing how long it will take to summit and retreat from any point on the mountain but we have no super-natural powers to predict the how quickly the weather will go from passing to threatening.

Storms can develop right at the edge of the Tetons. And develop quickly. Exum Mountain Guides had a group of high school students on the Grand Teton's summit ridgeline when a blast of white lightning shot through the air. They didn't see it coming and you may never see it coming. Even the best skywatchers can get caught off guard. 

Anyone who tells you that they can forecast the weather for a ten-mile radius around the Grand Teton during periods of moderate instability is lying. It is possible to read the weather as it develops but it is often impossible to know if the weather is a real threat to you. 'Safety First' means you should retreat to a safer location if you have any doubts about the weather. It's always the right call. 'Summit First' means you might get cooked. When it comes to bailing, that gut feeling is what we go with. Jump ship and come back later. Later can be a half-hour or another day.

Many storms do blow out quickly. Most climbers keep retreating after a storm has passed. It's often the case that they miss out on beautiful climbing afterwards. Sometimes, however, God's greatest gifts are unclimbed summits. And sometimes the journey is as worthy as the destination.

NWS 7-day Forecast at Saddle
NWS Lower Saddle's 2-day Hourly Forecast
NWS Recreational Forecast for GTNP
(summer only)
M-F's Grand Teton Forecast
MW's Jackson Forecast
MW's Weather Access Map
MW's JH Observations
JH Airport Observations
Driggs, ID Airport Observations
GTNP Weather Past 10 days
Recent Timbered Island Precip
Grand Targhee and Alta Precip 
Localized Radar Map (ID)

The Idaho weather radar has better mapping of the western side of the Tetons. Most of our weather comes from the west. The localized Wyoming weather radar doesn't properly cover the Teton Range.

Local meteorologist Jim Woodmency runs It's a great source of weather information from other sources. His local forecast lacks the detail we look for in a forecast and he often just feeds the NWS forecast to his website. Besides having an interest in the weather, Woody made many notable ascents in the Tetons and was, for a time, a member of the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers. He even survived being hit by falling rocks while on a routine mountain patrol. The Gold Face on the Lower Exum was put up by Renny Jackson and Jim Woodmencey in 1988.
NWS Online School for Weather
NWS Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NWS  Grant Village Yellowstone: 162.450
NWS  Driggs ID: 162.450
Teton County Weather Station
WW Weather Support Page
Mountain Thunderstorm Formation - PDF
NWS WY Webcam index
  Grand Teton Webcams

~ Weather Telephone Numbers ~
NOAA: 1-800-211-1448 
Ask for the weather near the Grand Teton.
GTNP Weather Line: 307.739.3611

National Weather Service - Riverton
Western and Central Wyoming
12744 West U.S. Hwy 26
Riverton, WY 82501

The Lower Saddle's weather station and the recreational forecast are only available during the summer months. The average low temperature at the valley floor during July and August is 40°F. The avg. high temp is about 79°F. The Grand Teton's summit rarely stays above 40°F overnight. There are days when the summit hits 60°F (shaded temperature) but these are rare. Most high temperatures don't arrive until after 3:00 pm. Be prepared for cold temperatures. We have seen climbers turn around simply because they didn't have gloves when the temperatures took a dip.
The Catwalk - Mid-afternoon August 9th, 2015.

In July of 1993, 6 feet of snow fell at the Lower Saddle (11,600') and it was the coldest & wettest summer on record in Jackson, WY.

There are days when the temperature at the Jackson Hole Airport and the temperature at the Lower Saddle are within a degree of one another. Inversions are also possible at any time of year. Temperature inversions can have a 40°F spread between the valley floor and 10,000' during the winter.  

During the summer, the National Weather Service will almost always forecasts a 8°F difference between the Lower Saddle and summit no matter what the weather or time of day. And their low-temperature difference between the valley floor and the summit is rarely more than 13°.

Heavy mist can quickly freeze to rock and make it impossible to safely navigate the mountain if you are soloing. Additionally, thick fog can make route finding difficult and hide incoming weather. Be cognizant of the direction that temperatures are moving under foggy or wet conditions. Of course, the temperature can change dramatically as a cold front, bad weather, or darkness moves over the area.

The Lower Saddle's weather station will display the wet bulb temperature and the dew point. The dew point is the temperature that the air needs to cool down to in order to achieve 100% saturation. It's the temperature at which fog, dew, or frost can form. If the wet bulb temperature is 32°F then snow is possible at that elevation. Snow levels can be 1000' lower than freezing levels.
Historical Weather 1958-2012

Keep in mind that the days get colder and shorter as we roll through summer. You'll have about 16 hours of daylight during the 2nd-to-last week in June when the summer solstice arrives in GTNP. You'll find more snow at the lower elevations in the month of June compared to September; however, the June days are longer and warmer. June usually gets more thunderstorms but September's storms typically bring snow and ice that sticks around. These two months are considered the shoulder season for climbing in GTNP. The high season is July & August. Outside of these four months, the mountain is a very quiet place.

~ 2015 & 2016 Lower Saddle Weather Observations ~
 Lower Saddle Temperatures Summer 2015 -11,600'
 Lower Saddle Temperatures Summer 2016 - 11,600'

The hottest day of the year is, on average, July 16, with a high of 79°F and a low of 48°F.
Lower Saddle Wind Speeds Summer 2015 - 11,600'

Climbers have been killed & injured by wind gusts while climbing the Grand Teton.
 Lower Saddle Wind Speeds Summer 2016 - 11,600'
Wind Chill Index

The wind can blow pretty hard at the Lower Saddle. Gusts reached 75 mph on August 21, 2015. The Lower Saddle's wind speed was a constant 30 mph the next morning and the temperature was 31°F at 6 am. That makes for a 15°F wind-chill temperature. If you're unprepared for a cold windy day on the Grand Teton, you're likely to turn around after a whole lot of effort & time on the approach.

Although the occurrence is not common, climbers can experience hypothermia & frostbite during the summer. Wet clothes lose much of their insulating properties and a breeze can greatly increase the rate of heat loss so hypothermia can happen in air temperatures up to 50°F. The cold can be deadly. Hypothermia took the lives of several Grand Teton climbers in 1985 and hypothermia ultimately took the life of Gary Miller in 2013.

During the summer, it is not uncommon for overnight summit temperatures to drop below freezing after a rain storm. Thin ice on the summit block tends to burn off in a few hours, or less, once direct sunshine arrives the next morning. Shaded ice may need a full day, or longer, to burn off. Direct sunlight won't reach the west-facing Owen-Spalding route in a timely manner; however, warm summer temperatures usually clear thin ice off the critical climbing holds by 12:00 noon if they were dry before the storm. Additionally, it's fairly easy to shatter that thin ice with a loose rock (or this) by noon.

Most climbers are not bringing crampons to the Grand Teton during the summer but sometimes you need them. You can rent crampons and axes at several locations around Jackson Hole including from Moosely Mountaineering inside GTNP by the Moose Entrance at the Dornan's shopping & dining area. Mountaineering rentals are fairly inexpensive at all the rental locations. Summer climbers can sometimes get by with less costly traction devices or winter running shoes with integrated traction. Shoulder-season climbers should be prepared to travel with an ice axe and crampons.

~ Satellite Based Emergency Communication ~

They all have drawbacks and benefits - research carefully. If you purchase a new or used U.S. coded 406 MHz beacon you MUST register it with NOAA as required by law. Personal Locator Beacons (ResQLink) rent for $10/day at Teton Backcountry Rentals. The 406 MHz EPIRB was designed to operate with satellites and has been designated internationally only for distress. 

~ Products ~

SPOT Satellite GPS Messenger
Delorme (Garmin) 2-Way Satellite Communicator
ACR Electronics ResQLink GPS Personal Locator Beacon
McMurdo Fastfind
Iridium GO!

~ Local VHF Radio Frequencies (MHz) ~

It's unlikely that a broadcast from Garnet Canyon will reach anyone during an emergency. You might reach a pilot with an aviation radio or the Driggs Airport's CTAF channel from the Lower Saddle. For the most part, two-way radios are best used for communications between members of a climbing party. The wind can make "On Belay!" sound like "Szossoozzzayy!" A two-way radio can make communications more peaceful and safer.

 Jackson Hole Airport (JAC) Control Tower: 118.075
You used to be able to Listen Live to JAC here
JAC Ground: 124.550
JAC CTAF: 118.075
JAC UNICOM: 122.95
Driggs Airport has no tower:
Marine Distress Channel: 156.8
Aviation Distress Channel: 121.5
International Distress EPIRB: 406 MHz
Mutual Aid: 154.875
Teton County Search & Rescue

155.22, Tx/Rx Tone 100.0
The agencies below use
repeaters & Rx/Tx tone codes
Teton Dispatch GTNP Repeater
 Rx: 171.675
TCSO Dispatch

~ Weather ~ 
NOAA Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NOAA Map of Jackson Coverage Area (PDF)
NOAA Yellowstone Weather Radio: 162.45
Driggs, Idaho weather radio 162.450

Jackson Hole Area Amateur Radio Club
Teton Amateur Radio Repeater Association

~ Frequency Ranges ~ 
Aviation 118.000 - 136.975 MHz
Marine: 156 - 162.025 MHz
Weather: 162.400 - 162.550 MHz
International Distress: 406 MHz

Speaking of the airport....
Launching, landing or operating an
unmanned aircraft, such as a drone, within
Grand Teton National Park is prohibited.
See the Laws & Policies of GTNP


Why free-solo the Upper Exum or Owen-Spalding climbing routes?

You can sleep in. You climb on any day you want. You (well, not everyone) can easily make a round-trip in single day. You can go at your own pace and enjoy some solitude. You can travel further and stay stronger when you're carrying less weight. You can easily move past other climbers. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit. You can skip the expensive gear. You can skip the expensive guide. There's a freedom that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers. It's a far more enjoyable experience for many. Older, injured, or physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or travel on time-lengthy trips. You may not have the time for multi-day climbing activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is often an advantage when the weather window is short. You might recover more quickly. You can have the summit to yourself (sometimes).

Free-soloing has its inherent dangers as does any activity but it's relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather, terrain traps, and poor conditions. A one-day round-trip is not suggested for everyone but many athletes free-solo the Owen-Spalding route in a single day with no prior climbing experience. It's well worth the effort to try a one-day ascent when the weather and conditions are in your favor if you're fit and acclimated to the elevation.

The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes and don't mind spending some money will be buying or renting a pair of climbing shoes. We solo the UXM & OS in just about any type of outdoor shoe but a good pair of sticky climbing shoes will boost your confidence & safety on the rock.

~ Plan B ~

Being prepared for the unexpected means having a Plan B. Sometimes Plan B is gear and a lead climber. A foothold might suddenly give way. Wind may knock you off balance. Verglas might be mistaken for dry rock. Rockfall may hit you. A handhold might come loose. You might lose your focus. You might lose your way. You might even have a medical emergency while climbing like Conrad Anker. Anything can happen, without warning, anywhere, anytime, even on the most familiar terrain.

Ropes can compensate for the natural ability of humans to make mistakes, and for nature's ability to sabotage our safety. They don't guarantee your safety, of course, but there's a good reason that the world's most talented climbers, & least talented, use ropes. Besides safety, the best reason for using a rope is that you're more likely to really test & improve your climbing skills with the safety that a rope affords. Ropes can also get you past tricky situations in a hurry.
"I never lost anything up there and...
never wanted to go back" - Allen Budge

This is one of the few web portals for climbers that isn't intended to promote products or the author. The only thing we promote is free-soloing the Grand Teton as safely and as efficiently as possible.

Enjoy Safe Climbing