The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Climbing Route

 
The Upper Exum Climb




Upper Exum Climbing Route Overview
 Click to see original larger image


In 1931, an 20-year-old Glenn Exum borrowed a pair of leather-cleated football shoes two sizes too big from Paul Petzoldt and set out to examine the prominent southern ridge of the Grand Teton at Paul's request. Glenn free-soloed the upper ridge and met back up with Paul who immediately repeated Glenn's ascent after guiding clients up the Owen-Spalding. A week later, Paul made the 3rd ascent up the ridge, taking Theodore and Gustav Koven with him. It's been one of the most popular routes in the Tetons ever since. Glenn eventually joined Paul's business, becoming partners in what is now known as Exum Mountain Guides.

A lot has changed since Paul first started guiding. Especially prices. We found this in the archives: "The authorized official guide for mountain-climbing trips in Grand Teton National Park is Paul Petzoldt. He maintains summer headquarters at Jenny Lake, and charges $8 a day, a person, for his services. Climbers may provide their own food or have their meals at $2 each at a timber line camp. Blankets and eiderdown sleeping bags may be rented for $2."

These days, some guided trips cost thousands of dollars. And that's before you tip your guide. Those stratospheric prices are par for the course in Jackson Hole & Grand Teton National Park.


https://jcmoule.smugmug.com/Family/Trailfinder-Memories/i-VsgF5p4
 Glen, Paul, and dogs on the summit. 1950


The above Trailfinder's image appeared in the book "Glenn Exum: Never a Bad Word or a Twisted Rope". The photo is dated 1952 in the book. The Trailfinder's say it was 1950. Two dogs signed the 1950 register. Clearly, the book is wrong. Dogs are not allowed in the backcountry these days.

Like many of today's climbers,  Paul Petzoldt was eager to document his climbs. The first known movie of an ascent on the Grand was in 1930 when Petzoldt guided a party of three men to the summit and they "Took 'movies' all the way". Where those movies ended up is a mystery. A year later, Paul led an expedition up the Exum route on August 30-31, with newly-minted Grand Teton National Park ranger George L. Waters III filming their climb. You can watch the classic 1931 Grand Teton climbing video on Forrest McCarthy's YouTube channel. Alpinist magazine covered the video's backstory.

Obviously, all climbing advice that follows should be taken with a grain of salt when it comes to the highly personal experience of climbing. This route has been carefully climbed by seniors, children, and climbers with all sorts of different body types, ages, and abilities. It's a puzzle and experience that is different for every climber.


Maybe


Most single-digit kids would rather visit McDonald's than be sugar-drugged up this mountain. But, kids start skiing and climbing seconds after birth in Jackson Hole and there's a long history of attention-seeking parents in the Tetons who supercharge these activities.

6-year-old Beo Charette climbed the Upper Exum Ridge in 2014, and claimed the record for the youngest person to summit via the Exum route. Jimmy Chin's 7-year-old daughter Marina climbed the Upper Exum route in 2021. That's her in the above screenshot from the CBS Sunday Morning show. Supposedly (we haven't corroborated the claim), Leigh Ortenburger's daughter Carolyn previously held the girls' age record on the Grand Teton after climbing the Exum Ridge at the age of seven in '69 or '70.  Between 1956 & 1958, Jeff Lowe (age 7), Greg Lowe (age 8), and Mike Lowe (age 10) all climbed the Exum Ridge with their father Ralph. Those are just a few of the many kids who have climbed (to various degrees) the Exum route.

Peter Eubank climbed the Owen-Spalding route (your descent) at the age of 6. We mention that because it is sometimes reported that he was 5-years-old. However, after some digging into several sources, it seems that he climbed Teewinot at 5, not the Grand. Peter and his family have had notable ripped-from-the-headlines life experiences that span the globe. Upon reflection, his climbing looks more like critical training. Nonetheless, if someone's bringing their 5-year-old preschooler on the Grand, it's probably all about their needs and desires instead of the kid's age-appropriate needs & desires.
 
Highlighting the youngest or oldest to do something in the Tetons has a long history. The Salt Lake Telegram newspaper proclaimed 10-year-old Fred Eriksson of Stockholm, Sweden, was the youngest to summit the Grand on August 27th, 1934, and Dr John H. Strong (76) as the oldest (both via the Owen route).

Paul Horton and Irene Beardsley climbed the Exum Ridge the day before her 76th birthday back in 2011. We find that way more impressive than most ascents by very young kids who are usually cocooned in an adult's arms.


Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers


The park's climbing rangers provide search and rescue services at no charge to visitors. You can join the local community in supporting these services by making a donation to the Grand Teton National Park Foundation, a 501(c)3 non-profit organization, which administers the Jenny Lake Rangers Fund. Or make a donation directly to the park for those services.
 
The ranger station can be a great resource if you meet the right ranger. Most are very familiar with the Grand's moderate routes, and some are familiar with the most challenging routes in the range. The old ranger station has a nice collection of route pictures. And they can share approach tips and information on backcountry trails.
 
If you're camping while climbing, your summer backcountry camping permits must be picked up from the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. And any camping permit for Garnet Canyon, climbing or not, must be picked up from the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Garnet Canyon has special regulations for camping.

Climbing permits are not required as of 2024.


~ Conditions ~
 

The Upper Exum is the sunny alternative to the shadier Owen-Spalding route and its conditions are often better because of its southern aspect. Soloing climbers are exiting the mountain via the Owen-Spalding route so it's important to make sure conditions are passable for you on both routes. If you're climbing with ropes, conditions on the OS are less of an issue. Roped parties will bypass most of the Owen-Spalding's sketchier sections by using the rappel back to the Upper Saddle (AKA: the Owen Rappel). Free-soloing climbers rarely use the rappel.

The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers' blog sometimes has updated information on current conditions (see route links below). That information can go stale quickly. It is best to call them at 307-739-3343 just in case they have more recent beta. Or, stop by the office. Their ranger station (map) is open 8 to 5pm daily during the summer. Their operating hours rarely change but their opening and closing dates change yearly: June 8 to Sept. 8 in 2024. We should add that getting through to them on a phone can be difficult at times.


 
  Home Page
(↑Check First↑)
 
 
More information on conditions is usually available online, at the GTNP's Climber's Ranch, at local mountaineering shops, or at the trailhead during the summer. You will certainly cross paths with descending climbers coming off the Grand on your way into Garnet Canyon during daylight hours. If you live here, just ask around.  
 

 Emergency Contacts
 

307-739-3301 GTNP Emergency Dispatch
(Open 24/7, June 1 to Sept 30)


GTNP's Emergency Dispatch Center is open 24 hours every day during the summer high season (usually June 1 - Sept. 30). Outside of the high season, hours are 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. (subject to change).

911 works for voice calls and texting in Teton County, WY & ID, 24/7/365. Calls go to the Teton County Sheriff's dispatch center, not the park's dispatch center. If you are closer to an Idaho cellular tower, your voice call or text message might be transferred to the Teton County, Idaho, dispatch center.


 
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any)



Weather
Sat Images from GOES
(some GOES updates are 5 min apart)
 Active Fires & Smoke Plumes
 
 
 
A forecast is good for about 6 hours. Even within 6 hours, it is of questionable accuracy for the Tetons during the summer. A little instability in the air can cause the weather to change quickly and unexpectedly. Highly localized mountain weather is common. It is often producing afternoon thunderstorms.
 
Unless a very stable high pressure system sits over the Northern Rockies, be prepared to read the weather as you travel and bail when necessary (or wait it out). Make worst-case assessments to maximize safety if you're responsible for others. Climbing when the weather looks questionable is usually irresponsible. This is especially true if you can't move quickly in the mountains.
 

The Approach

 
This webpage focuses on the actual climbing challenges above the Lower Saddle and presents only a brief introduction to the approach to the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle via Garnet Canyon. More than a few climbers just follow other climbers to their destination during the height of the busy summer climbing season but it's good to have a firmer understanding of your approach route.



Water sources & camping locations


During the summer you can find a free outdoor water station at the South Jenny Lake Store which is near the Jenny Lake Ranger Station (see above map). There are plenty of natural water sources along the trail. Some need filtering, some don't. We never filtered our water but we choose the source carefully. Spalding Falls is fed by a spring at the top of the falls. The summer trail takes you to it. We can't say how well it gets filtered while underground but it has been used without filtering for decades.

There is a pit toilet at the trailhead. Climbers are advised to bring WAG Bags for upper elevations, and bury human waste at lower elevations. These days, wag bags are considered best practice at all elevations.

Backcountry camping locations in Garnet Canyon are shown in the image above, & below, but technical bivy sites are not shown. They be reserved online or acquired through a first-come, first-served walk-in permit. Other camping locations around the valley are covered on our Jackson Hole Camping Guide (rarely updated).




You're heading for the Grand's Lower Saddle which sits between the Grand Teton and the Middle Teton in the North Fork of Garnet Canyon. The climbers' trail runs all the way to the Lower Saddle. The approach will be snow free at some point during the summer; usually by mid-July, sometimes earlier, sometimes later. The sunny Upper Exum route might clean up before the approach.

When it's not buried in snow, the trail to the Lower Saddle is mostly well defined and easily navigated. It does cross two boulder fields where there is no clearly-defined path for over 200 feet (see above map). At the 1st Boulder Field near the Platforms Camping Zone, you will regain the trail next to Garnet Creek.

Between the 1st Boulder Field and Spalding Falls, the climbers' trail disappears in an insignificant way in a few spots that are easily navigated. Usually, the trail continues just in front of you. Take the path of least resistance. It helps to examine the approach to the Lower Saddle in more detail if you're traveling when it's dark. Unprepared people have become lost in the dark.

At the 2nd Boulder Field, you will regain the trail next to a sign for the Moraines Camping Zone. The sign is to your southwest as you enter the boulders and just above a small drainage. The sign is next to the moraine's most-eastern camping spot. Above you, directly north, rises Teepe Pillar.


"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" pegged the distance to the Lower Saddle at 7.5 miles in 2023.

You may see a few side trails on the approach. Some spurs go to camping spots, others are used to avoid early-season snow. Some are shortcuts. Most people don't need GPS data to stay on the trail. Just fun to track. The Park Service would like everyone to stay on well-traveled paths whenever possible, or stay on rock and not vegetation if off trail.


Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope - Rockfall Zone!



Climbers often kick rocks down the headwall as they move above the Fixed Rope. Stay alert and avoid being in the line of fire. Never travel directly above the Fixed Rope to the west or northwest during the summer due to the high probability of causing rockfall on climbers below you. In some locations the rock is too unstable to remain in place no matter how carefully you move. This area is also the site of natural landslides & rockfall.

After leaving the Fixed Rope, climbers follow a path toward the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle. They travel to the toe of the Middle Teton as it sits on the saddle. They end up by the most southeastern camping site and a source of water.

Before continuing, let's take a moment to share the following video:


The Upper Exum trip with David, Ken & Lauren


David Gonzales took his talents and a video camera up the Grand in 2007. The result was this fine gem of cinematography which was also YouTube's first video of free-soloing climbers on Grand Teton. Google snapped up YouTube for $1.65 billion in 2006 back when cynics questioned YouTube’s staying power. According to Google, YouTube generated $15.1 billion in ad revenue in fiscal 2019. It's a nice resource for climbers.


VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS

Middle Teton shown at 0:28
Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope at 0:38
Lower Saddle at 0:51
Central Rib's Lower Crossover at 0:56
Wall Street's Step Across at 1:03
Golden Stair at 1:20
Jern Dihedral with Ken Jern climbing out of it at 1:31
Upper Friction Pitch at 1:43
V-Pitch at 1:52
West -Leaning Chimney at 2:03
Boulder Problem in the Sky at 2:07
Summit
Owen-Spalding's Belly Roll (downclimb) at 2:19



Southern Aspect


Climbers by the water hose

A small section of a garden hose allows you to collect drinking water near the SE corner of the saddle. It sits in a drainage at the toe of the Middle Teton's rocky north-facing slope. The hose is SE of a metal sign that reminds you to stay off the vegetation. And the hose is just south of a seepage area in a very shallow drainage.

There is a 'rest stop' on the western aspect of the saddle that provides a non-functioning fenced toilet area which is used for privacy. It's just west of the two summer huts used by Exum Mtn Guides and the park rangers. Again, you are required to pack human waste off the saddle using wag bags. Do not piss on the eastern side of the saddle and contaminate the water sources.


The Lower Saddle's rest stop "toilet"


Let's take a look at an overview of the approach above the saddle to the Upper Exum Ridge.


Click to enlarge


The more demanding & exposed climbing for UXM climbers starts at the end of Wall Street. It starts at the Upper Saddle for OS climbers.


Typical path to the Upper Exum Ridge


The climbers' trail runs to the Black Dike. There are a couple sloppy paths running near the crest of saddle. Take any. Do not use the spurs running east or west. Those are for other climbs. The scramble begins once you pass the dike.


Routes between the Lower & Upper Saddle
Click to enlarge


Again, we are heading for the western aspect of the Needle and looking for the first opening in the rock face which will be the Chockstone Chimney.



Western aspect of the Needle, and variations to access the Central Rib's Bench


 

Climb directly up the chimney or scramble up the rock to the left and enter the chimney from a higher position to get past the lower chockstones.
 
If you don't like those options, skip the chimney and go for the Briggs' Slab.


Lower section of the Chockstone Chimney


While often avoided by guides, the chimney area is probably the most common ascent line. It is also the fastest and most direct line of ascent toward the ridgeline of the Central Rib. For more experienced climbers, there are many shortcuts to utilize.

You may wish to avoid the lower chimney due to rockfall hazards from others directly above you.


 Another overview of the Chockstone Chimney area


If you climbed the lower chimney, you will quickly find yourself at an obvious ramp heading south and out of the chimney. Once out, make a wide u-turn and go into a natural tunnel called The Eye of the Needle. The Eye may be plugged with snow early in the season. Sometimes there's a big snow step to help you climb over the tunnel. It is also possible to utilize many other lines of travel when conditions allow.


Some variations around the Chockstone Chimney


You're heading for the Belly-Roll Almost after leaving the Eye of the Needle's tunnel. You can go over the top of the BRA or go under it. Conditions may favor one over the other. Good holds are everywhere when it's dry. If you pass under the BRA, you will be looking for a small foothold that is hidden from view until you are on top of it. After passing the Belly-Roll Almost, you will be heading for the ridgeline of the Central Rib. From there, you will see the Wall Street shelf leading to the Upper Exum Ridge.

Let's look at the Briggs' Slab and variations around it.

If we must rope up, (with kids, whatever) we will use the Briggs' Slab because it's the quickest option when using ropes. It's also easier and safer than most lines when using ropes. 
 

Approach to the Briggs' Slab


To reach the Briggs' Slab, go past the Chockstone Chimney and head up the main drainage for a short distance. You may wish to travel along an elevated line just above the drainage. You'll pass the protruding rock band on your right and end up by a side drainage. If no snow is on the ground, you will see the Mini Black Dike in that drainage. It runs toward the bench's headwall. Follow the Mini Black Dike for a short distance toward the bench and then make your way toward the south end of the bench whenever it is easy to do so. Again, you're making a big u-turn from the bottom of the Chockstone Chimney to reach the Briggs' Slab.


Variations to access Central Rib's Bench

Looking at the Briggs' Slab area from the northwest


Briggs' Slab area

Looking at the slab from the southwest.

You might wish to try the Middle Ledge of the Chockstone Chimney if conditions are poor on the slab. It's also a good variation to bypass the lower chimney and gain the Eye of the Needle.


Climber on the Briggs' Slab.


Guides will run a rope around a rock feature to belay clients on the Briggs' Slab instead of setting gear. They often do that on much of the technical climbing, too.

After passing the Briggs' Slab, or Belly-Roll Almost, head for the ridgeline.


Overview of the area past the Briggs' Slab & Eye


Variations that are less common to access the Central Rib's Bench:

The Cracks of Doom and the Sack o' Potatoes are variations just north of the Briggs' Slab. Sometimes the slab is backup with climbers.




The Sack o' Potatoes chimney is at the very end of the Mini Black Dike (center variation above). It is unlikely to be the fastest way to travel but it sees plenty of activity (usually with ropes). A high line from the north (left) goes pretty quickly. You step over some exposure but it's an easy scramble. The southern line is another option; however, you'll find more loose rocks. It's a little awkward. On the descent, only the northern high line is recommended in the SOP if you're soloing it.

Back to our regular route:

 
The Central Rib Overview
Click to enlarge


This photo provides a nice look at the Upper Exum's ridgeline. The highlighted "Entrance to the Wind Tunnel" gets you past the large wall in the ridge by taking you toward the Wind Tunnel Gully further east.

Again, Upper Exum climbers are headed east and over the Central Rib. There are two common locations to cross the rib: the Lower & Upper Crossovers. Both crossovers are reached via modest drainages. The Lower Crossover is the most common route. You simply follow the extension of the Chockstone Chimney to reach it. Early in the season, the Upper Crossover is sometimes a better line of travel when the Wall Street Couloir has sketchy conditions. When everything's dry, it might be easier for kids.

Owen-Spalding climbers are headed for the Upper Saddle via a Black Rock Chimney variation or the Upper Western Rib. Do not follow them unless it's on the descent.


A look toward the east after exiting the Briggs' Slab area

The Lower Crossover drains into the Chockstone Chimney.


These climbers are at the Upper Crossover

The Upper Crossover drains to the Sack o' Potatoes chimney.


The Fang at the Lower Crossover


This will be a tight squeeze if you're carrying a big pack. Many folks climb on the outside of the Fang. Right after passing the Fang, you will drop down into another tight squeeze. That drop may challenge a small child.

Variations that are usually avoided:

Just to the right of the Fang, and directly below it, is a slab system that is sometimes used by climbers ascending the eastern side of the Needle. That off-route eastern variation has no real time advantage and it's not usually recommended. There is also a chimney variation on the eastern side of the Needle that tops out at a tiny 'saddle' that you pass just before reaching the Lower Crossover. Both easy. Some loose rocks. There are other eastern variations to reach Wall Street but they are usually avoided by climbers.


The slabs just below the Lower Crossover


Let's get back to our standard route options....


View from the Lower Crossover


The WS gully is a dangerous place to be if climbers are above you due to some very loose rocks. Again, crossing the Wall Street Couloir can be challenging early in the summer with icy-hard snow. Sometimes even the sloppy stuff.

BTW: Do not exit the mountain down the Wall Street Couloir. It isn't a shortcut to save time. There are a few tricks but staying away is the best bet if you don't know what you're doing.


  Looking back west after crossing the LOWER Crossover


Looking back west from Wall Street
 

Wall Street Gully - loose rocks everywhere. This gully drains to the WS Couloir.
 

There's a black alcove to your left as you ascend the gully which would, if you climbed it, take you to a ledge on the western face that runs back to the ridgeline. It takes you to the entrance to the Wind Tunnel. We don't recommend it. Loose rocks, not the best climbing, often cold and usually more time consuming: see below.

The Climb


The chimney system


Wall Street


Rap to Wall Street.


This rap (maybe 60 ft) is rarely used; however, it's a good escape option. The rap starts just above the Golden Stair. It's not maintained and it's unlikely you'll see any evidence of it. Notice that this rap takes these climbers back to the fat part of Wall Street and not the narrow upper end.

You can see the Wall Street shelf from the rap location. That allows you to check on your landing if you're headed back down. 


Wall Street





At the very narrow end of Wall Street work your way around the corner using either ledge, or step across the gap from the lower ledge.


Paul Petzoldt is the last one on the rope


On his first ascent, Glenn leaped from the upper ledge to the eastern side. 
 
"When you get to the eastern extremity of Wall Street, why there isn’t any place to jump from! So I climbed as high as I could, until I was sort of secure, and jumped from a standing start!” Glenn Exum

Sounds like he didn't carefully examine all his options before jumping. A common mistake with many novice climbers. Glenn was truly out of his comfort zone on the first ascent. Petzoldt wisely rounded the corner later that same day.
 
Let's start by looking at the variations that go around the inside corner. We will look at the "Step Across" later.


 Staying upright on the upper ledge - one variation.


There are two ledges at the end of Wall Street. This climber is on the upper ledge. We stand totally upright and work our way around the corner like this climber. The footholds are awkward and narrow but we trust 'em. There are no great handholds.
 
One of the drawbacks of using the upper ledge while roped is that a fall will probably result in a riskier drop. The belay is usually horizontal. A fall off the lower ledge will be a shorter affair. For the record, we don't remember any accidents taking place at the end of Wall Street. Many climbers find this area to be more challenging than expected, however.
 
We will use the lower ledge if wind is blowing like crazy. Hard to say which is safer when the wind is calm. Varies with the climber but the narrow footholds are always available on the upper ledge. The lower ledge is easily backed off before rounding the corner so no harm in checking it out first.


Leading the Upper Ledge


Those are not bomber handholds.


Step Across - upper ledge.


Here is the video:



Rounding the corner on the upper ledge


Step Across - upper ledge


He takes the gloves off.....




Many climbers pull up on the bottom of the gap to maintain their position. This modified lieback (or layback) forces you into an awkward body position that doesn't instill great confidence but it works fine for this climber. We would rather stand upright. Quicker.

Let's take a look at the lower ledge variation......


 Climber on the lower ledge at the Step Across


The climber is using the lower ledge at the end of Wall Street. The fat ledge disappears once he rounds the corner. There are several ways to move off the lower ledge.


The fat lower ledge


The gap that Glenn Exum jumped across

This climber is set to cross the gap instead of going around it.
 

 Climber on the lower ledge about to round the corner. Photographer on upper ledge.


These finger holds work well to maintain movement, balance. You'll need a death grip if you slip.


 Finger holds on upper ledge


Lower Ledge  - rounding the corner


The climber's right foot is on a solid foothold. The handhold is the fingertip hold on the upper ledge.


Photographer on upper ledge


Climbers often exit the fat part of the lower ledge by standing atop the "detached" flake seen below the photographer's foot (by the yellow arrows). They either move onto a friction depression by the light-brown arrows or use long legs to reach a small black foothold (at the left edge of the image) to gain the inside corner. Some climbers will go below the flake and use the top of the flake as a hand hold. Those climbers either step across the gap or move to the inside corner.

Sticky shoes aren't essential to make it around this corner but they certainly make it quicker, easier and safer. As pointed out previously, Glenn Exum had leather-cleated football shoes two sizes too big on his first ascent. In the photo, our shoes are rubber-cleated specials from Ross Dress for Less.


 Upper ledge on right

That small black-colored foothold in the center of the image is the common foothold for those leaving the lower ledge. Or a handhold if you dip down low.


  Looking down from the eastern side of the gap


Same view with David on the lower ledge.


The above photo was shot with heavy fog.


Looking down from the western side of the gap (David's position)
 
In the next video, a young climber dips down off the lower ledge to round the corner.


Clearly, not her first rodeo 
 
When the video ends, she is at the inside corner:


 The black rock foothold


The step over the gap (the Step Across) is shown in the next video. This isn't any harder, just different. Some climbers may prefer one variation over another.


Stepping across the gap. 


Let's look at the Golden Stair (AKA Golden Staircase):


 
Soloing the Golden Staircase.


As you leave Wall Street's Step Across, head for the right side of the rock face to find easier climbing - as seen above. It will be obvious when you are there. The Staircase has nice holds but it still requires careful climbing. Some of those holds may seem rather slim. While climbing with a companion, Hannah Marshburn, age 24, of Jackson took a fall at the Golden Stair and sustained a facial injury and possibly a head injury. Clearly, 'nice holds' is in the eye of the beholder.

In the image above, Brody Leven is out with Robin Hill free-soloing the Golden Stair. They sailed up the GS like it was a sidewalk.


 Soloing the face


BTW: It's Golden Stair, not 'staircase' if you go by the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range"; however, there are often many different names for the same features on this mountain. Old-timers used different names and spellings so feel confident that your name works just fine. We have no idea why the Climber's Guide used 'stair' but the authors had a habit of changing some names around. Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney used 'Golden Staircase' in their guidebooks and it's common to hear that name. They made it into the Wyoming Outdoor Hall of Fame in 2019 —  JHN&G story. Update: Renny Jackson offered up both names in the 2023 edition of his guidebook.


Typical line on the GS


Variations that are not usually taken by novice climbers:


The cracks variation


This is just around the corner from the base of the Golden Stair. Maybe it's a little harder. If so, not by much with sticky shoes. If you go even further to the NE, you will find even more cracks/slabs/etc to play with. They may be easier, or not, for you. They are shown below...


Another variation further NW - grippy


Climbers coming off the Petzoldt Ridge sometimes use this area to access the Exum Ridge. Maybe 5.6ish climbing for them to get here. They can also access the ridge further up the mountain.


Let's get back to our standard route options....


A little step problem just above the Golden Stair


These guys are at the location where you can set a rap back to Wall Street.

There is an option of going around the exposed western aspect of this step instead of going over it. It's pretty funky and we're never sure the rock is going to hold which adds to the fun of going that way.

It's mostly a scramble to the Wind Tunnel from above here. Climbers will scramble up a gentle slope, climb a short section of rock, and then scramble down the other side.


The scramble to the Wind Tunnel....


Again, you will scramble up the rock and then back down the NE side of the rock to reach the entrance to the Wind Tunnel.

Non-standard route option:

Notice the "exposed variation to the west" in the above image? It's another exposed variation that is fun to utilize, but slower. The next picture shows you what it looks like. Many variations on this route.


Heading for the Wind Tunnel's entrance...NW variation


Back to the standard route:


Looking at the access point to reach the Wind Tunnel

We're looking down at the entrance to the Wind Tunnel after taking the normal route.


Let's look at what's ahead


Overview of some variations above the Wind Tunnel


The chockstone area is full of large boulders to play on.

The gully at the bottom right side of photo drains toward the Petzoldt Ridge.


We are headed for that large detached flake making the V-Shaped opening



Access the Wind Tunnel


Looking back


Wind Tunnel's chockstones


Wind Tunnel

Climbing directly up the left side of the white arrowheadish chockstone is a greater challenge but certainly worth trying. Most people go right (like the climber above) and then step into the channel on the left side.

We will point out that no one was spotting this lead climber. If you are in a group, it is usually wise—and a common courtesy—to spot climbers when it's easy to do so. This certainly isn't a difficult more for the lead, but bad things sometimes happen when people think bad things won't happen.


Another look



The climbers shown here are bypassing the most common chockstone line by climbing along the eastern wall of the Wind Tunnel Gully.


Wind Tunnel Gully above the chockstone problems


Ascend the drainage and climb out of the Wind Tunnel to an open ledgy area. It's where the gully ends and the ridgeline rises out of it. From there you can assess various options. 
 
Most climbers simply head for the right-facing Jern Dihedral near the very top-center of the above image to gain the Friction Pitch. We will look at several variations first.
 
 
 
 Carman's Pinnacle

Carman's was a detour that was sometimes followed by a climb partway up the Western Chimney. It has lost some attention and popularity over the years. Even if you skip Carman's, a run up to the ridgeline for a lookie-loo offers some fine views down the western aspect. "Carman's Pinnacle" has had several names, and was once said to be unnamed. But Carman's has stuck. That name comes from Dave Carman or his brother. Dave was an Exum Guide and happened to help build the JHMR Via Ferrata climbing area.
 

Top of Carman's Pinnacle 5.5 to 5.6



Overview


A look at your options


The Western Chimney variation is way less popular than using the Jern Dihedral. Both take you to a ledge at the base of the Friction Pitch. That ledge starts by the Western Chimney and runs to the far eastern side of the ridge above the Puff-n-Grunt. If you're going for the Jern, how you get there is up to you. Some climbers start by the Western Chimney, some start by the eastern side of the ridge, some take a more direct line. We feel a western line from the chimney area is easiest but there is no exact path to recommend. Our most common ascent starts up the eastern crest past a nice hand jam. Shortly above there, we move toward the Jern.

The Double Cracks along the eastern crest is another variation to reach the Friction Pitch. It is close in difficulty to the Jern. Free-soloing climbers can also move atop the Jern's western crestline (5.4ish) instead of entering the dihedral. Both options are good way to bypass slow-moving climbers in the Jern.

You also can go further east and use the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney. It's mostly a scramble on the easiest line with a few simple climbing moves. That variation allows you to skip the the Jern & Friction Pitch. The more challenging Puff-n-Grunt also bypasses both.
 
Let's take a quick look at these options before looking at the Jern.


The ledgy area just above the Wind Tunnel Gully is where the gully ends and the ridge rises out of it.


The climbers in the photo are headed for the Jern. To their right (east) is access to the Puff-n-Grunt & Friction-Pitch Bypass variations (these are off-route). And, behind the photographer is access to the Western Chimney variation.

We'll look at the PNG (Puff-n-Grunt).


 The PNG. Most of it is very easy climbing


We figure that the large Puff-n-Grunt dihedral is 5.6ish at one very short crux. In the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range", the authors call it a "difficult (5.6 to 5.7) corner". We say 5.6ish because it doesn't feel as difficult as it should when we're wearing very large winter-insulated hunting boots. Ratings are pretty subjective and yours may vary. There is also a crack between the PNG and the FP Bypass Chimney that may be of interest to some climbers.

You can start the PNG and exit to the base of the Friction Pitch after the passing the crux. Some very nice but smallish holds take you across the PNG's left wall on a horizontal traverse to the Friction Pitch. While it helps to know the exit location, you can sometimes see climbers at the base of the Friction Pitch and just head toward them. It will be easier to finish the PNG but this is a sweet way to travel to the Friction Pitch.


PNG's crux.

You can bypass the slightly overhanging crux by going around its right side for a much easier line of attack. Or go left and enjoy it. That is the only cruxy part of the PNG.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Enough of the Puffy route. Here's the Western Chimney.


The Western Chimney


Western Chimney


The Western Chimney's rating varies with the exit location.
 
Climbing the entire Western Chimney is an uncommon line and a challenging variation. It exits at the top of the Friction Pitch. The exit is a little funky. And it is not for beginners. You need to get past a very large overhanging chockstone and much of the rock is crappy by the overhang. We keep waiting for that chockstone to shed off the mountain like the one that used to be in the Stettner Couloir.

The most common exit from the Western Chimney is to the base of the Friction Pitch. That exit is by an very old cam stuck in the rock. The cam might get removed at some point but it has been there for years. That exit is up a short, slightly steppy rock face. You land on the ledge that runs to the base of the Friction Pitch.


This exit is right before a big down-step in the chimney


 Another overview of variations around the Friction Pitch
Click to enlarge


The purple dots are highlighting the common exit from the Western Chimney to the Friction Pitch. If you don't see the old cam stuck in the wall, you can't miss the 2nd big step in the chimney (it's a down-step step) and the nasty looking chockstone area above so no worries about missing your exit. You won't.

You can also exit the chimney about 15 to 20 feet (we haven't measured it) before reaching the jammed cam via some awkward steppy holds on the face of the western aspect of the ridge (5.4ish to 5.5ish maybe).

The chimney itself is a fairly quick ascent. The exit is the only thing that might slow ya down.

Let's look at the easier Friction-Pitch Bypass before looking at the Jern & Friction Pitch.  


Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney on right (PNG at far left)


Access the FPB Chimney from the top of the Wind Tunnel. Scramble east into the big chute. The Notch Gully at the top of the chimney drains into here.

While the FP Bypass Chimney is the easier than taking the Jern & Friction Pitch when dry, there are some loose rocks in the chimney which require your attention. The loose rocks in the chimney are mostly by your feet. They are a real safety hazard. There are plenty of solid handholds. Also, the bypass may not be a good travel line early in the season when there's a mix of ice and snow.

The best exit line out the bypass isn't obvious as you near the top. Follow the easiest path up the chimney until things get harder. At that point, your easiest (and fastest) options are moving left or right. 
 
The exit to your left (west) involves moving into a smaller parallel chimney. It's above you and slightly hidden. There is a small ledge system that gets you to the parallel chimney. You can also climb a more direct line to the parallel chimney and skip the ledge. You need to be there.
 
The exit to your right (east) is along an elevated path against the wall. You need to get onto the elevated section of rock. Choosing the quickest and easiest place to do that is not obvious. If you start at the wrong place, the climbing can be a little tricky and slow. We wait until the very last opportunity for a move onto the elevated eastern side (just before the climbing gets more difficult, or time consuming). Conditions may force you to choose one side to exit the chimney.
 
If you are up here often then it's good to climb the bypass at some point. You'll learn a possible retreat path in case of an emergency - either up or down. Or possibly, a safer variation. If 60 mph winds are crossing the Friction Pitch, we take a different line up the ridge. By the way, from this location, many people exit further up the mountain in case of an emergency and do not retreat back down the ridge.

You'll have several escape paths above you in case you need to use one. The quickest might be the sloppy ledge just above the Notch Gully. It's highlighted below. That ledge is running across the western face of the ridge. Or you can exit onto the big ledge system above the V-Pitch. Both will take you to the rappel to the Upper Saddle, or the Owen-Spalding route if you're downclimbing.


Escape options


Keep in mind that chimneys are not safe places to be during a lightning storm. Neither are ridges. Lightning can energize the entire ridge and energize a channel of water in a drainage chimney. Additionally, a place like the Notch Gully above could send debris down the chimney if it's pouring rain.

By using variations like the Friction Pitch Bypass Chimney you can lower the rating of the UXM to something more in line with the OS. However, the UXM is longer with more sustained climbing and it usually takes more time to evaluate many of the climbing moves on the UXM compared to the fairly straight forward moves on the Owen-Spalding route. This is one reason why people usually bail via the OS route instead of downclimbing the Upper Exum in an emergency. How you retreat for a blown knee might be different from how you retreat for incoming weather.
 
Let's finally look at the most common route up the ridge. The Jern Dihedral to the Friction Pitch.


Climber just below the Jern
 
 
The climber in the green jacket is next to the location where you access the Puff-n-Grunt or the Friction-Pitch Bypass.


The Jern Dihedral.

Many climbers use protection on the Lower Exum ridge and then free-solo the upper ridge. This young woman is soloing past other climbers who are waiting on their lead to setup a belay. The rock is solid. The climbers below us (using the green rope) were using an approach from the western side of the ridge just below the Western Chimney.

The novice climber may need some time to figure out all the moves/holds. That can slow you down. It's often best to use another variation when a group is climbing in the dihedral.


Climber at the Jern


The Jern Dihedral is named after climbing guide Ken Jern. He slipped on ice and fell 50 feet down its face. You can watch Ken point out the location in the nice soloing video we highlighted above.

The previously mentioned western crest of the Jern Dihedral is seen in the above photo (far left). You can also see the Double Cracks line along the eastern crestline in the image above. Both are good options if the Jern is backed up.


Another look at the cracks on the eastern crestline - below the word "CRUX"

Just a note to say the the Jern has cracks that follow the dihedral. Sometimes the cracks on the eastern crestline are confused with the Jern's crack system or vice versa.


 The Double Cracks area - not really harder, just different


Let's look at the Friction Pitch



The 2nd climber slips three times


The climber who slips has mountaineering boots with firm soles that aren't very sticky. He is at a more difficult location (slightly harder friction holds) & at a more dangerous location (edge of the crest). He moves away from the crest and ends up by the Knob Line.

Usually, the real crux of the Friction Pitch is in your mind if you have sticky shoes. There is a psychological barrier that many climbers need to cross when they have no bomber handholds (or bomber footholds) while friction climbing. In reality, if you have sticky shoes, they footholds are pretty bomber. We can stand on the cruxy friction section in carefully-picked, big-box tennis shoes and snap photos. Doesn't mean you should.
 
The Friction Pitch is often rated as a 5.5 pitch. Some rate it at a 5.4. We think 5.4 better represents the actual climbing challenge if you take the Knob Line; however, 5.5 better represents the psychological challenge for novice climbers. If you were the guy who was slipping down the rock in the above video, you may have a different opinion. The climber's bible upped the rating for the Friction Pitch to 5.6 in the 2023 edition. Maybe it's old age and decades climbing 5.6 lines elsewhere that led Renny to change it. Got us.


 Friction Pitch's Knob Line, seen from west side


The friction part is above the knobs.
 
There are some micro & fingertip holds on the Friction Pitch's short friction section but they don't inspire great confidence. You really need to trust your friction holds. The rock is not polished stone—it's mostly grippy rock. Another three or more decades and it may become polished. Who knows.

The guidebook A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range seems (seems) to suggest that going right off the knob - foot in a small depression - is easier. In the book Teton Rock Climbs by Aaron Gams, he suggests that going left off the knob is the better option. Richard Rossiter, who wrote both "Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park", and "Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park", suggests going up from the knobs and "right to a shallow grove and upward to the top of the slab." With sticky shoes all lines are pretty similar off the knob.

If you are standing on the top knob with an outstretched arm in front of you, you may find a nice fingertip hold between 12 and 2 o'clock.. It depends upon your arm length. That hold will help you move into Richard's 'shallow grove' if you move right. There is also a nice fingertip hold at arm's length to the left at 9 o'clock — more likely to be used by climbers left of the Knob Line but sometimes used by climbers moving left. You might be able to palm the edge of the vaginal line (discussed below) if you move left off the top knob. As can be seen in the above video, climbers can use their palms as a source of friction.

We usually go left from the upper knob. We just plant our left foot to our left and move up to the ledge above the crux. We may use the fingertip holds for maintaining balance. Helps when the wind is blowing. We mostly trust the friction footholds. If you plan to go left off the Knob, you probably want to have your right foot on the upper knob before you make that move left. Keep that in mind as you approach the top knob.

While free-soloing El Cap's Freerider, Alex Honnold, took a 20-move detour to get around a single friction foothold according to Tommy Caldwell. He also bailed on Freerider's friction slabs during his first free-solo attempt. Friction is the bane of many free-soloing climbers. Again, the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney is an excellent detour around the Jern & Friction Pitch if you want to try a different variation. Or the Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral.



Start of the Friction Pitch - view from eastern side


Friction Pitch

It only takes two or so moves to get past the crux of the friction section off the knob.

Immediately past the short crux, you will find some smallish holds that give way to bigger ones as you climb the rest of the pitch. Some climbers feel that other features like Wall Street's Step Across are more disconcerting than the Friction Pitch. As we say, everyone experiences a climb differently.

The Vaginal Line is just to the left of the above climber by a foot or so. Some climbers like the Vaginal Line. It is a friction zone and we don't consider it any easier than the other variations, just different. Some start the Vaginal Line and exit to the right before going up the main channel. Others climb straight up it.

On June 25, James McDonald, Larry Susanka and Dan Sola were climbing the Exum Ridge in icy conditions during a storm! Sola fell while leading the Friction Pitch with crampons on icy rock. He was blown over backwards by a gust of wind. But, that's not the best part of the story. The park's medical PA, Lanny Johnson, talked them through a dislocated shoulder reduction and they self-rescued.

On July 26, 2003, at 3:35pm, lightning struck the ridge and fatally injured Erica Summers (27) while climbing the Friction Pitch. One of her partners, Rod Liberal, was having trouble with the now wet, smooth rock. He was about halfway up when the lightning struck and blew him off the ridge, swinging him about 30 feet.

If you need to bail from the bottom of the Friction Pitch — perhaps those 60mph winds kick up — you can try heading to the eastern side of the ledge at the base of the pitch to access the Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral. As mentioned previously, there are small but good holds leading to the inside corner of the Puff-N-Grunt. If you can gain the PNG, you'll find easy climbing up the rest of the PNG. You are entering the PNG above its crux. Plenty of places to set pro if you're using it in the PNG.
 

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Some climbers go left, some go right at the knobs


Those look like pretty good footholds in the above picture. When you're on the rock, your perspective is different. The footholds seem less secure. The depressions smaller. The angle steeper.  Death closer.


Vaginal Line

Just a different line. Plenty of small depressions. We once got a boot stuck in the Vaginal Line and had fun popping the boot out. Could have been a fine anchor.


We will take a quick look at a variation that is not usually taken. It's just west of the common line through the friction zone.


 
This western side of the ridge (just west of the Vaginal Line) provides good rock for climbing. It is rarely used. The Vaginal Line is seen along the upper-right side of image below the word "unseen".


 Another view same area


That crack runs to an easier fatter crack that's just out of view. You can see many depressions by the Vaginal Line in this image, and everywhere else.

We have done every line in shoes that were not made for climbing. But, sticky shoes are key to the fastest times. And greater safety. Approach shoes made for climbing are a common sight on the Upper Exum. The ridge has been climbed in bare feet more than once.

The photographer is on the ledge that runs along the base of the Friction Pitch.


A few more pictures of the crux by the Knob Line (this time, looking back down it):



Climbers at the ledge below the Friction Pitch

At this point, the photographer is on a small ledge just above the cruxy part of the Friction Pitch. There is an old piton just to the west of the photographer that some will clip into (it's old.....)... test it.


Soloing through the friction zone - Knob Line


Finding a fingertip hold (right hand) at the friction zone. Vaginal line is just to his left.

A look back down the FP and Wind Tunnel


The climber exiting the Western Chimney took the rarely used variation just to the south of the Western Chimney's jammed cam. It's a more enjoyable exit.


Friction Pitch - past the friction zone. Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral on left.
 
 
Friction Pitch - approaching the top


The Notch Gully is above, & east of, the Friction Pitch


Run up the gully or climb the western ridgeline above the Friction Pitch - both easy. The ridgeline is a great option with sketchy snow in the gully. The Friction-Pitch Bypass chimney is the drainage for the gully.


Notch Gully - looking back down toward the FP (out of view)


View toward the V-Pitch from the Notch Gully.


The most common line out of the Notch Gully is an easy scramble up some rock to the NE. Another variation leaves the notch and heads up the exposed face below an escape ledge. That's an easy climb on blocky rocks (test your holds!).


Escape Ledge

If you're really bored with all the 5.5 climbing, head down the escape ledge and find the 5.7 chimney with a chockstone. It takes you to another ledge higher up that runs back toward the beginning of the V-Pitch.


The escape ledge below the V-Pitch


The actual escape ledge to the Owen-Spalding Route (or the rappel back to the Upper Saddle) is easy 4th and low 5th class scrambling over many loose rocks. We recommend the escape ledge just above the Notch Gully if it is critical to save a few extra minutes. Not sure we would use it with lightning in the air: might get blown off with a strike. This escape ledge is normally reached from a location above the notch area and below the V-Pitch. To use that access point, look for some black rock littering the ground on the western side of the ridge as you scramble below the V-Pitch. That's your access location.

That exposed escape ledge takes you to the ledge system that runs between the top of the V-Pitch and the Grand's Great West Chimney.



Two climbers considering the V-Pitch Bypass Crack


The crack variation to the east of the V-Pitch is easier when dry. It's part crack, part chute, part slab. The slab variation further east of the crack is off route. Every now and then it gets used, as do other eastern approaches passing over the Ford Couloir. Some are easier variations to the summit. They go under the eastern aspect and take you to, or past, the Boulder Problem in the Sky.


Closer look at the access to the V-Pitch

 
The approach to the V-Pitch was the location of one of the more perplexing free-soloing accidents in recent history. On August 8, 2014, 60-year-old Steve Markusen's last memory was "of climbing the easy slabs to the exposed so-named “V Pitch,” at 10:00 a.m.". He was found by other climbers standing on his feet and wobbling with three broken ribs, a punctured lung, a lacerated spleen, and lacerations that ultimately required 42 stitches and staples. It is not known what caused the accident. A medical emergency, lost consciousness, dizziness? He might have been hit by falling rock but the odds seem low given the area. Ice seems unlikely. The easiest lines are not difficult to climb (mostly scrambling). Perhaps he choose a challenging line and slipped. Those lines are usually easy to spot if he wanted to avoid them. It's a mystery but a medical emergency makes the most sense. He wasn't young. This was Steve's 3rd time up the ridge solo and he was an experienced climber. He first climbed the Grand with his dad Dave Markusen in 1969. As they say, anything can happen, any time, anywhere. 54-year-old Conrad Anker had a heart attack while climbing at 20,000 feet.


Easy V-Pitch bypass crack / chute / slabs


View to the SW


The climbers are approaching the V-Pitch. We are below the eastern aspect of the summit ridgeline climbing slabs. We are way off route. 


The V-Pitch - center right
 
The bypass crack and the V-Pitch might be covered in snow (or filled w/ ice) during the start of the summer season. The snow in June can be pretty sketchy on this face. It often depends on the time of day.


V-Pitch

Unsoeld's Lieback runs along the eastern crest (sticky shoes helpful).


V-Pitch



Take time to enjoy the views

 
The western aspect of the summit ridgeline above the V-Pitch
 
  
Five minutes can be the difference between life and death on this mountain if thunderstorms are moving in. Have a game plan before they arrive. And know your best options to stay safe if you can't escape threatening weather. The summit ridgeline is a lightning rod.


West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney is a little tricky. It's a short combo of features: slabs, cracks, depressions, knobs, and monkey-bar holds. One might use lieback, friction, and stemming moves to get up it. Plenty of awkward holds if slick. Getting up the West-Leaning Chimney with a large backpack limits climbing maneuvers and makes your life a living hell in a tight space if it's really icy.

Variations usually avoided by climbers: 

Eastern variation: The friction slabs that dip down and around the prow of the ridgeline to the eastern side of summit ridgeline are sketchier than they look. Climbers have taken slips there. They take you to 5.4 variations, among others. Common sense will get you where you need to go once you pass under the ridgeline's prow if you go that way — choose easiest path, or whatever.

Additionally, the prow has a line on the far right side of the photo that is a fun option to access the ridgeline for stronger climbers. If you make it atop the prow, you might find a bunch of slings just above the alcove. Old tat is everywhere.

Back to the regular route...


Better than ice but still awkward with approach shoes & a pack


Exiting the West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney has many many names: Petzoldt's Lieback, Black Alcove, West-Leaning Crack, etc. The Jackson Hole Mountain Guides like to call it The Dark Side.


West-Leaning Chimney


West-Leaning Chimney


The climber is stemming off the wall behind her with her left arm. That is one option of many to get up the awkward corner. There is a small but very nice foothold by her feet. An oddball collection of handholds are to her right, some deep inside the void. It's a little puzzle when dry or wet.

If this area is totally iced up, climbers can always scramble down the broad western escape ledge to reach Sargent's Chimney on the Owen-Spalding route. Takes just a minute or so. That option adds a little extra time to reach the summit but not too much for a soloing climber. The Owen-Spalding might be in far worse shape than the Exum if you find ice here so figure extra time for the ascent, or head for the exits.


Climbers heading for the ridgeline after leaving the WLC

After getting above the West-Leaning Chimney, climbers are usually heading east toward the ridgeline which will take them to the Boulder Problem in the Sky. 


L-Shaped Rock feature northeast of the West-Leaning Chimney


Instead of heading directly for the ridgeline after exiting the West-Leaning Chimney, you can also head for the L-Shaped Rock. This area has been called the V-slot by some. Call it whatever. The L-Shaped Rock feature is along a line that's sometimes used to access a bypass running under the Boulder Problem in the Sky. The BPITS' southern jam crack is directly above the L-Shaped Rock on the ridgeline. It's the crux of the BPITS.


Looking toward the BPITS from the L-Shaped Rock

Just head for the ridgeline.

You can dip down from the L-Shaped Rock and access a bypass. That bypass can also be reached further above here. The bypass is a little awkward. The Boulder Problem in the Sky is quicker for us.


Exiting the BPITS Bypass


This bypass can be really slow going with icy conditions. This area is shaded for much of the day.


 Vanessa on her way to the BPITS.

This step can be avoided by heading for the ridgeline immediately after leaving the West-Leaning Chimney instead of heading for the L-Shaped rock feature.


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


 The short face with the crack faces slightly southeast and it has some exposure to the southeast.


Many ways to ascend.


Take your time and examine all your options. This crack can be a challenge to quickly ascend for novice climbers. As always, sticky shoes are helpful but they aren't necessary.

There is no way this is a 5.6 climb in our mind. But, Renny Jackson has it at 5.6 in his big bad guidebook as of 2023. We are hard-pressed to say it's above 5.4 but maybe that's because we're tall and we already know the moves. Baffles us.


David at the Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack 
 
 



At some point before the 2022 climbing season, The Boulder Problem In The Sky shed some rock features along the ridgeline once past the southern crack. We wouldn't be surprised if more rockfall occurs here. A very unstable rock is highlighted in the above picture. It could be a serious hazard to climbers if it fell westward during the summer months. It might also get stuck in the bypass gully and do no harm.


Looking back at climbers exiting the BPITS

After exiting the BPITS, you might start to see climbers below you on the Owen-Spalding route. 
 

 The summit ridgeline


Run along the ridgeline and go under the eastern aspect of the Horse to gain the summit. Take the path of least resistance. Or, you can cross over to the Owen-Spalding route in front of the Horse and approach the summit from the western side. You can also climb the Horse (start on the SW corner) but very few climbers actually do — they just want to get to the the summit ASAP at this point. And Kids, who are probably mentally and physically exhausted at this point, will have a harder time navigating that line.

The next picture shows a common path to the summit under the eastern aspect of the Horse......

Eastern Aspect Summit Ridgeline

Western Aspect Summit Ridgeline

The Owen-Spalding (purple route) is highlighted to the bottom of Sargent's Chimney. Green lines are OS variations and show access to the rappel back to the Upper Saddle. Gold lines are possible travel lines for Upper Exum climbers and one highlights an escape to Sargent's Chimney. The "Crux BPITS" text is highlighting the location of the jam crack.


Rescue off the Exum Ridge
 

FYI: Bailing via the Ford, Chevy & Stettner Couloir can be a gamble and it is not recommended unless you're exceptionally well prepared for that descent, know the conditions, and understand the risks. It should go without saying, but we will, most narrow couloirs should be avoided during bad weather due to runoff, and they should be avoided when high temperatures may cause flushing (often snow). Runoff or flushing can include rocks, snow, ice, and water. Some couloirs can hold ice and snow all year long. Narrow couloirs are often terrain traps: it might be difficult to get quickly escape something coming your way.


~ The Downclimb ~ 


Descending the entire Owen-Spalding route back to the Upper Saddle is the backup plan for roped parties when they can't use the rappel (compromised rope, lost gear, too many people waiting in bad weather — has happened). It can be downclimbed with a pretty short rope if you need protection and you still have some rope.

See our Owen-Spalding Climbing Route page if needed


The Owen-Spalding Route
Click to enlarge


Owen-Spalding Overview


Most roped parties will use a dynamic 60m rope thrown slightly south from the Main Rappel's Sling. The longest drop is stamped "40m" from the bolted chain. The rap off the sling is shorter. The landing zone slopes downhill so the distance to the Upper Saddle varies from different setups.


The Main Rap area AKA Owen Rappel



NW & West Aspect - Click to enlarge


Overview of the Grand Teton's western aspect


Southern Aspect & Exum Ridge
Click to enlarge


Downclimb Features from the Upper Saddle.....

Upper Western Rib
(Variation to reach Central Rib's Bench)

  (Variation to reach Central Rib's Bench)

Briggs' Slab or Eye of the Needle
 (Back where you began)


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A few trip reports for April through October

April 9th, 2016 (OS)
April 17th, 2016 (OS)
May 30th, 2016 (OS)
June 19th, 2016 (UXM & OS)
July 9th, 2016  (OS)
July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation 
August 9th, 2015 (OS)
August 25th, 2015 (OS evening)
September 20th, 2015 (OS)
September 26th, 2015 (OS)
September 10th 2016 (UXM & OS) 
September 17th 2016 (UXM & OS)
October 17th, 2015 (OS)
October 25th, 2015 (OS)

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Overview - Upper Exum
Overview - Owen-Spalding

1947 Silent Film of Glen Exum, Paul Petzoldt, and Virginia Garner on the Upper Exum


Virginia's husband, Raymond C. Garner, shot the movie which stands out as an impressive effort for a non-commercial climbing film. The original 16 mm version of The Mountain is in the National Archives.
 
According to the Academic Film Archive of North America, Ray Garner began his photographic career in 1935, filming Boy Scouts (or assistant scout masters) on a climbing expedition in the Tetons, calling the film "The Mountaineers Club Teton Expedition". Unfortunately, that film has been lost. Ray wasn't just a filmmaker who dabbled in climbing. He was an outstanding climber for his time. He also guided with the Petzoldt-Exum guide service. Two years after making this film, in 1949, Dick Pownall, Ray Garner, and Art Gilkey made the first ascent of the iconic IV 5.8 North Face of the Grand Teton, which soon became one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" (perhaps less 'classic' today).
 
Ray was also a member of the American Alpine Club, leading climbs in North America, Europe, and Africa. Ray and Virginia (sometimes Jinny or Ginny) were blazing an unusual path through life. Evidence of their adventures shows up in unexpected places. The Virginia Park in Canyonlands National Park was named for Virginia. She was made an honorary Tuskegee airman after being taught to fly by members of the famed African-American combat unit. Virginia's diary of her time working on the Africa Motion Picture Project was turned into a book called Images Out Of Africa. And the Central Arizona Mountain Rescue SAR team traces its beginnings back to the 1940s when Ray and Virginia were climbing in the southwest.

One of the best parts of the above film is watching the three climbers slide and run down the snow fields at the end. This was a very snowy July day, much more than usual. Their summit register includes Howard Friedman, a former member of the renowned 10th Mountain Division and a photographer for Life Magazine and Sports Illustrated. Howard probably helped with the filming. While climbing, Paul, Glenn and Virginia look like your typical slightly-out-of-their-element guided climbers that one sees every summer in the Tetons. At one point, Virginia takes what looks like a staged slip over rock as the film cuts to a calm Glenn Exum.
 
 
Raymond C. Garner,
 
 
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Enjoy Safe Climbing