Upper Saddle

The Grand Teton's Upper Saddle


A few trip reports for April through October

July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation 
Overview - Upper Exum
Overview - Owen-Spalding
Detailed Look At Specific Route Features


All images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit purposes.



The Lower Saddle sits at 11,600 ft.
The Upper Saddle sits at 13,200 ft.




The raps to the Upper Saddle (unseen)





View of the Upper Saddle from the Exum Ridge

View from the lower western side of the Upper Saddle

View from the top of the Central Rib and looking toward the Upper Saddle


Southeastern approach to the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle

Northeastern approach to, or off of, the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle

Northeastern approach to, or off of, the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle

Northeastern approach to, or off of, the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle

It's exposed










Green line is the northeastern line on/off the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle








You can follow the seam between the two standing climbers if you want another variation.

 Looking down on the southern variation by the Exum Gully

 Climber using the small ledge and crack system instead of the stem-over-flake (stem-over-boulder) move.




Here's a climber using the seam above two climbers using the stem move over a chocky flake/boulder.




The seam variation


 Climbers at the stem-over-flake variation on southern side


Variations on the southern side by the stem-over-flake move

Stem-over-flake (stem-over-boulder)

Southern Variation

Northern variation

 Northern Variation

Northern Variation

Northern Variation


Southern Variation

Stem move over flake/boulder
Southern Variation



















It's kind of wonderful how the drop off the northern side of the Upper Saddle just falls away into the void below.


Upper Saddle as seen from near the Enclosure








Lower western side of the Upper Saddle


Looking northish (NE) toward the Belly Roll


Main Rappel line



This was shot just below the Upper Saddle

The exposed SE corner of the access to the upper eastern side of the Upper Saddle
People have fallen to their death here.




Just below the raps



At the lowest point on the Upper Saddle


View of Middle Teton from the saddle


 The Patio just below the Upper Saddle

































































Enjoy Safe Climbing