The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Climbing Route

 
The Upper Exum Climb



The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Climbing Route
 
The south-facing Upper Exum Ridge is one of the most popular routes in the Teton Range. It's a common alternative to the equally popular but shadier west-facing Owen-Spalding route. The climbing is longer, harder and more sustained on steep sections compared to the Owen and there's a short faith-based friction section. It's rated as a Class 5.5 climb and considered to be appropriate for "beginner to intermediate" climbers. In the 4th edition of A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range, Renny Jackson upped the rating of the route to 5.6 in 2023. Mountain Project has it at 5.5 as do most guidebooks. Your mileage may vary. 
 
Free-Soloing the Upper Exum with no previous climbing experience is not recommended. Consider climbing the Owen-Spalding route when it's dry if you haven't done any climbing. If that's easy for you, this is worth considering. It also helps to know the Owen before soloing the Exum because most soloing climbers downclimb the Owen. That brings up another important point: If you're soloing the Exum Ridge and downclimbing the Owen, make sure conditions are passable on both routes. Conditions on the shady Owen-Spalding route can differ greatly from the Upper Exum. There are many days when both routes are dry during the summer, or the conditions only present modest challenges with an excess of dry rock.
 
If you're climbing with ropes, conditions on the Owen are less of an issue. Roped parties will bypass most of the Owen's sketchier sections by using the rappel to the Upper Saddle (AKA: the Owen Rappel).

The average free-soloing climber may find it very difficult or impossible to safely turn around and retreat down the Exum Ridge in a timely manner. Many escape further up the mountain if storm clouds are building and they descend the Owen-Spalding. This additional escape time is important to take into consideration when planning your climb.

Climbing advice and opinions should be taken with a grain of salt when it comes to the highly personal experience of climbing. It's a puzzle and experience that's different for every climber. It's impossible for us to know how hard the climb will be for you, how well you will manage the hazards or how elastic your comfort zone will be with or without a rope.


The Approach


Visit our webpage for The Hike to the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle if you need more details about the approach than what's covered here. It has some additional tips and info. Our homepage sometimes has updates and news.

Just south of Jenny Lake in GTNP is the Lupine Meadows Rd leading to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. Almost everyone starts their trip from there. It's 21 miles from the Town of Jackson.

More than a few people will follow other climbers all the way to the summit without gathering much beta. Nonetheless, it wise to have a good feel for where you're going and the challenges.



There are many sources of water along the trail. We never filtered our water but we choose the source carefully. Spalding Falls is fed by a spring at the top of the falls. For decades, most people have never filtered it. The summer trail takes you to it. It's about 5 miles from the trailhead. There's a free outdoor water station at the South Jenny Lake Store if you need some clean tap water before leaving the trailhead.

You're heading for the Grand's Lower Saddle which sits between the Grand Teton and the Middle Teton in the North Fork of Garnet Canyon. Outside of a few exceptions, the approach is snow free at some point during the summer. Sometimes by mid-July, sometimes earlier, sometimes later.

Assuming you're walking fast, traveling light, and you're very fit, these are common split times and distances from Lupine Meadows to the Lower Saddle for strong athletes:

 
First Junction: 30 minutes, 0.5 hrs total, 1.7 miles
Second Junction: 30 minutes, 1 hr total, 3 miles
Platforms Camping Zone: 4.1 miles
Meadows Camping Zone: 30 minutes, 1.5 hrs total, 4.5 miles
Caves Camping Zone: 5.2 miles
Moraines Camping Zone: 5.9 miles to sign
Lower Saddle: 60 minutes, 2.5 hrs total, 6.4 miles, 2.6 mph avg
Summit: time varies with skill, fitness and route knowledge

(The above distances are estimated from GPS Tracks)


It's 2,175 vertical feet to the Summit from Lower Saddle. The slope distance is longer. And the distance you'll actually travel is longer than that. It might take fast-moving soloing climbers an extra 1/2 hour to reach the summit compared to their time climbing up the Owen route. For the most part, it's s a wild guess how fast you'll move. GPS tracks up the Exum Ridge should be available on Strava.

Just for reference, local athletes who climb the Exum Ridge regularly can reach the summit in 4 hours or so from the trailhead. Others might take 24 hours to make a single-day round-trip. Indeed many do. Everyone's different.



Besides the backcountry camping zones in Garnet Canyon, technical climbing bivy sites are also available. To see the bivy locations on a map, follow this link and see if there's a map as you scroll down the page. You can also click on "Check Availability" then select "Technical Climbing Sites" and then select you group size etc to view all of the bivy locations (they keep changing stuff so it may not work in the future). Bivy sites can be reserved online or acquired through a first-come, first-served, walk-in permit.

The dry summer trail to the Lower Saddle crosses two boulder fields where the trail disappears for over 200 ft (see above map). At both boulder fields, the trail resumes to your southwest as you ascend. The climbers' trail disappears in an insignificant way in a few spots. Usually, the trail continues just in front of you. Take the path of least resistance. If you're traveling when it's dark and you don't know the area, it helps to examine the approach to the Lower Saddle in more detail. Or use a tracking app. 


 The Approach

You'll see some side trails on the approach. Some go to camping spots & climbing objectives. Some spurs are used to avoid early-season snow. Some are just a tangled mess of braided trails that were used as shortcuts.


Don't cut the summer switchbacks east of Spalding Falls. It leads to erosion, rockfall and damage to vegetation. Cutting switchbacks is illegal in much of the park.



The Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope is used once the snow burns off the headwall's summer trail. Before then, there's a bootpack over snow that runs up the saddle's headwall.


Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope - Rockfall Zone!


Climbers occasionally kick rocks down the headwall. Stay alert and avoid being in the line of fire. Natural landslides & rockfall also occur on the headwall.
 
Never travel directly above the Fixed Rope to the west or northwest during the summer due to the high probability of causing rockfall on climbers below you. Climbers head toward the Middle Teton and follow a path to the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle.


The Upper Exum with David, Ken & Lauren


David Gonzales took his talents and a video camera up the Grand in 2007. The result was this fine gem of cinematography which was also YouTube's first video of free-soloing climbers on the Grand Teton. Google snapped up YouTube for $1.65 billion in 2006, back when cynics questioned YouTube’s staying power. Their 2025 revenue topped $60 billion, bigger than Netflix. For all we know it's a loss leader but it's a nice resource for climbers.


VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS
(links are to pictures, not video shortcuts)


Middle Teton shown at 0:28
Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope at 0:38
Lower Saddle at 0:51
Central Rib's Lower Crossover at 0:56
Wall Street's Step Across at 1:03
Golden Stair at 1:20
Jern Dihedral with Ken Jern climbing out of it at 1:31
Upper Friction Pitch at 1:43
V-Pitch at 1:52
West -Leaning Chimney at 2:03
Boulder Problem in the Sky at 2:07
Summit
Owen-Spalding's Belly Roll (downclimb) at 2:19



Grand Teton's Southern Aspect


Back in 1979, the Complete Exum Ridge (Lower & Upper, 5.7) was listed as one of Steve Roper and Allen Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

A section of a garden hose allows you to collect drinking water from a very small drainage near the SE corner of the saddle. Guides have been drinking the unfiltered water for decades. The drainage is at the toe of the Middle Teton's north-facing slope. It's just south of a large seepage area. And it's about 50 feet southeast of the Lower Saddle's metal sign....



The sign faces in the direction of the hose.


Climbers by the water hose
 
Sometimes the hose will collect particulates if the hose is poorly arranged, or the flows are very low. Flows can vary throughout the day.
 


There's a 'rest stop' on the western aspect of the saddle that provides a non-functioning fenced toilet area which is used for privacy. You're required to pack human waste off the saddle using wag bags. Do not piss anywhere near water sources, drainages to water sources, or near camping spots. 
 
The rest stop is west of the two summer huts. One hut is used by the rangers, the other is used by Exum Mtn Guides. If you need a wag bag, the rangers might have a spare but don't count on it—and don't count on the rangers being at the saddle's hut.



 
The more demanding & exposed climbing for Upper Exum climbers starts at the end of Wall Street. It starts at the Upper Saddle for Owen-Spalding climbers. 





From the Lower Saddle, you're heading north toward the Black Dike. There's a trail with several spurs. The scrambling begins after passing the dike. You're heading for the west side of the Needle. The Needle is a triangular tower at the very bottom of the Central Rib. Avoid the deeper drainages due to rockfall hazards. And watch for ice. It's very common along the western side of the Needle which is a seepage and drainage area.

Once on the western side of the Needle, you'll begin the process of crossing over the ridgeline of the Central Rib and making your way to the Exum Ridge.




You'll find the Chockstone Chimney at the first opening in the western aspect of the Needle. It takes you to the Eye of the Needle and over the Central Rib's ridgeline. No worries if you choose a different variation. There are many. We will look at a few.



 

Scrambling up the slabs and ledges just to the left of the lower chimney is faster and easier for many climbers. They'll move into the chimney once they get past the lowest chockstones. That also helps them avoid some rockfall hazards in the chimney.


Lower section of the Chockstone Chimney


(Red line is most common)


Once past the lower chimney, you'll quickly find yourself at an obvious ramp heading south and out of the chimney. Once out, make a gradual u-turn and go into a natural tunnel called The Eye of the Needle. It's a tight fit with a pack. Watch your head. The Eye may be plugged with snow early in the season. Sometimes there's a big snow step to help you climb over the tunnel. It's also possible to utilize many other lines of travel when conditions allow.

You're heading for the Belly-Roll Almost after leaving the tunnel. If you pass under the Belly-Roll Almost, you'll be looking for a small foothold that's hidden from view until you're on top of it. Good holds are everywhere when dry. Climbers have taken slips here so don't assume your inexperienced partner is going to find and use those good holds.


Different view



Head for the ridgeline of the Central Rib once you pass the Belly-Roll Almost, or once you pass the Briggs' Slab. The Chockstone Chimney continues directly to the Rib's Lower Crossover as seen below...


Cross the ridge at either location


Before we cross the ridge, let's go back and look at a few variations in more detail.

If we must rope up, (with kids, whatever) we will use the Briggs' Slab. It's the easiest and safest option when using ropes.
 



The Briggs' Slab is at southern end of the broken headwall and next to the Chockstone Chimney. The broken headwall makes up part of the Central Rib's "bench".



Variations to access Central Rib's Bench

 
The Mini Black Dike is a series of perfectly shaped black stairs leading directly to the Sack of Potatoes.

You might wish to try the Middle Ledge of the Chockstone Chimney which takes you to the Eye of the Needle. It's a good option if conditions are poor on the slab, or it's busy with guided climbers.


Climber on the Briggs' Slab.


Guides often run a rope around a rock feature and belay clients on the Briggs' Slab. You can scramble directly up the slab or walk around the outside edges.
 

Variations that are less common to access the Central Rib's Bench:

The Cracks of Doom and the Sack of Potatoes are variations just north of the Briggs' Slab. They can be good options if the slab is backed up with climbers, or you prefer a different travel line. They're shown below.

The Cracks of Doom is harder than the Briggs' Slab; however, it can be climbed and downclimbed pretty quickly when dry.

The picture below also highlights the two locations that climbers use to cross over the Central Rib. Notice that the Upper Crossover drains down to the Sack of Potatoes Chimney and the Lower Crossover drains down the Chockstone Chimney.


Click to enlarge


The direct line in the Sack of Potatoes Chimney is not the fastest or easiest variation but it gets used every so often. Most climbers exit to the High Line from inside the chimney when everything's dry. That High Line is good for an ascent & descent but crossing over the chimney requires some extra attention.  The High Line via the chimney was used by Michelino Sunseri on his FKT run. The Southern Line is another option. 


Downclimbing from the High Line into the SOP chimney area
 
The loose rocks and loose dirt around the SOP are a hazard. And the well-shaded chimney can be icy for an extended period after a cold & wet spell.


You're  headed over the Central Rib's ridgeline using one of the two crossovers....


Click to enlarge


One reason for using either crossover vs the other is that one of them might help avoid some spring snow hazards in the Wall Street Couloir. And climbers sometimes use the Upper Crossover line when running a lap on the Exum as they're on our way down from the Upper Saddle.


These climbers are at the Central Rib's Upper Crossover


From the Briggs Slab area, follow the extension of the Chockstone Chimney to the ridgeline. You'll see this fang-like rock at the Lower Crossover. There's a drop that may challenge a child after passing the Fang; however, there are variations on both sides of the drop. You can also scramble to the Upper Crossover and use it.

Variation that's usually avoided:

Just to the south of the Fang is a slab system that's part of a variation that's approached from the eastern side of the Needle. There's also a chimney just west of the Lower Crossover that runs up the eastern side. Easy climbing but some loose rocks. The off-route eastern variations have no real time advantage and they're not usually recommended.  They're a possible substitute if you're bored.


The slabs just below the Lower Crossover


Let's get back to our standard route options....


View from the Lower Crossover


Scramble down to the Wall Street Couloir and approach the north side of the gully leading to Wall Street. Avoid the Gully's lower drainage where it meets the couloir.

There's a black alcove to your left as you ascend the gully which would, if you climbed it, take you to a ledge on the Grand's western face from which you can gain the entrance to the Upper Exum's Wind Tunnel. We don't recommend it. If you do try it, you'll probably want to avoid climbing directly under the access to the Wind Tunnel due to loose rocks. Try heading a tad bit further north at the top and take the ledge back south. Additionally, near the beginning of the Wall Street shelf is the two pitch Flipping Tokens To Hoboken 5.12B/C climb that Brady Johnston, Greg Collins and Kent McBride put up. That also leads to the Wind Tunnel.

BTW, the three couloirs between the Lower & Upper Saddle have enjoyed various names over time. Sometimes two couloirs shared the same name due to a misunderstanding of the couloir's location. It wasn't unusual for a different name to be used by different guidebook authors or climbing guides, etc. For example, Thomas Turiano calls the Wall Street Couloir the Central Rib Couloir in his Select Peaks guidebook.

On Sept. 11, 1985, the Wall Street Couloir was the site of one of the more dramatic rescues on the mountain which ended with the death of three men from hypothermia. Podcast story and AAC accident report. 

BTW: Exiting the mountain down the Wall Street Couloir isn't a shortcut to save time. It cliffs out.


  Looking back west—before dropping into the Wall Street Couloir


Another look
 
Crossing the Wall Street Couloir can be challenging early in the summer with icy-hard snow, and sometimes the sloppy stuff. 


 
The Wall Street Gully leading up to the Wall Street shelf is full of loose rocks everywhere. Again, this gully drains to the Wall Street Couloir.
 


The Climb


Escape Rap to Wall Street


This rap is mostly used by climbers on other routes like the Petzoldt Ridge. It's both an escape option and an exit off the ridge for climbers not going to the summit. The rap starts just above the Golden Staircase. It's not maintained and it's unlikely you'll see any evidence of it. Notice that this rap takes these climbers back to the fat part of Wall Street and not the narrow upper end. You can visually check your landing zone from the rap station.


Wall Street


Eastern end of Wall Street at the Step Across


At the narrow end of Wall Street, you'll work your way around a corner using one of two ledges; or, you'll step across a gap from the lower ledge.


Wall Street's Step Across


Glen Exum leaped from the upper ledge across the gap on his first trip

Paul Petzoldt is the last one on the rope


 "When you get to the eastern extremity of Wall Street, why there isn’t any place to jump from! So I climbed as high as I could, until I was sort of secure, and jumped from a standing start!” Glenn Exum

Glenn didn't carefully examine all his options before jumping. That's a common mistake with many novice climbers. Glenn was truly out of his comfort zone. The summit register for his first ascent is a real zinger. Petzoldt wisely rounded the corner later that day and soloed the ridge like Glenn. Stepping across the gap from the lower ledge became a popular guided option over time. No variation gets the most attention these days. You can back off the lower ledge before rounding the corner if you wish to examine it first. It's more awkward to back off the upper ledge.
 
According to Jack Huyler, Glenn's first guided client was Coalter Huyler who owned the Bear Paw Ranch just south of Louis Joy's JY Ranch which was next to Phelps Lake. This was before the ranches were purchased by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and eventually became a part of GTNP. Coalter's son Jack wrote a few short stories about the valley's characters, including Glenn and Paul. He had a romantic affinity for the days when there were more cattle and dudes than trophy homes and trophy wives. See Life Magazine's images of Jackson in 1948—Jack's playing guitar in one of the images.

 
Let's start by looking at the variations that go around the corner at the end of Wall Street. We will look at the "Step Across" later.


 Staying upright on the upper ledge - one variation.


When we're on the upper ledge, we stand totally upright and work our way around the corner like this climber. The footholds are narrow but we trust 'em. There are no great handholds. The biggest drawback to the upper ledge may be the possibility of a fall with the rope in a horizontal position. That'll hurt ya.
 
For the record, we don't remember any accidents taking place at the end of Wall Street. Doesn't mean one hasn't happened.


Leading the upper ledge


On the move around the corner


Here is the video:



Rounding the corner via the upper ledge

You'll notice that she crosses her feet as she rounds the corner. Some will move one foot forward and let the other foot follow behind as they hug the wall. That's slower but it might lessen the tilt and it's possibly safer for an inexperienced climber.


Upper Ledge


He takes the gloves off.....


Notice his tilt toward the camera


Another look

The upper ledge narrows considerably as you round the corner. 


An outward bulge above the cleft adds to the difficulty


Let's take a look at the lower ledge variation......

 

Climber on the lower ledge

The ledge disappears once he rounds the corner. There are several ways to move off the lower ledge.


The lower and upper ledges 
 

Lower ledge variation seen from the upper ledge


Glenn Exum had leather-cleated football shoes two sizes too big on his first ascent. In the photo, our shoes are rubber-cleated specials from Ross Dress for Less. Sticky shoes certainly make it quicker, easier and safer to move around the lower ledge. Long legs help.


Rounding the corner via the lower ledge


These finger holds work well to maintain movement, balance.


 Finger holds on upper ledge

There are no monkey bar holds


Lower ledge — rounding the corner


The climber's right foot is on a solid foothold. It's a stretch to reach it from the lower ledge area. The handhold is the fingertip hold on the upper ledge.


  Looking down from the eastern side of the "Step Across" gap


Same view with David on the lower ledge


David was in some heavy fog.
 
In the next video, a young climber dips down off the lower ledge to round the corner. It would have been difficult for her to use the hand holds on the upper ledge.

If you have an inexperienced and roped climber on the lower ledge who's uncomfortable with the holds, they could try sitting in the harness and using their feet on the wall to gently more around.  


Smooth operator
 
When the video ends, she is climbing out of the inside corner:


  Inside corner off lower ledge
 
 
Climber heading for the Step Across variation
 
 
 Same holds but different exits
 
The first holds (foothold and handhold) that the young woman used in the previous video as she rounded the corner are used by most climbers using the Step Across. In the next video, the climber steps across the gap and avoids moving to the inside corner. This is the "Step Across" move, and a named feature. It may be easier for an inexperienced climber to exit on this line.
 

The "Step Across"
 
 
You'll find yourself below the Golden Staircase after passing the end of Wall Street. It's a very short climbing pitch. Directly below you is the Lower Exum climbing route. To the east is top of the Petzoldt Ridge.


Let's look at the Golden Staircase (AKA Golden Stair):


 
Soloing the Golden Staircase


The Golden Staircase has many good holds and sticky rock. It still requires careful climbing. Hannah Marshburn, 24, of Jackson took a fall at the Golden Staircase and sustained a facial injury and possibly a head injury in 2013.

In the image above, Brody Leven is out with Robin Hill. They sailed up the GS like it was a sidewalk.




BTW: It's Golden Stair, not 'staircase' if you go by the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range"; however, there are often many different names for the same features on this mountain. Old-timers used different names and spellings so feel confident that your name works just fine. We have no idea why the Climber's Guide used 'stair' but the authors had a habit of changing some names around. A case could be made that it has one big step or stair. Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney used 'Golden Staircase' in their guidebooks and it's common to hear that name. They made it into the Wyoming Outdoor Hall of Fame in 2019 —  JHN&G story. Update: Renny Jackson offered up both names in the 2023 edition of his guidebook.


Typical line on the GS


Variations that are not usually taken but might be worth a try....


The cracks variation


This is just around the corner from the base of the Golden Staircase. It's harder but not by much, especially with sticky shoes. If you go even further to the NE, you'll find even more cracks/slabs/etc to play with. They may be easier, or not, for you. They're shown below...


Another variation further NW - grippy


Climbers coming off the Petzoldt Ridge sometimes use this area to access the Exum Ridge. Maybe 5.6ish climbing for them to get here. Some join the Exum Ridge by the Wind Tunnel's entrance - going up a gully.

Speaking of the Petzoldt Ridge, Jane Constantino and Ralph Hill were climbing the Petzoldt when a large thunderstorm rolled into the mountain from the west just after noon. They got zapped by ground currents and suffered burns everywhere they were in contact with the rock. The current rendered them helpless for about an hour.


Let's get back to our standard route options....


A little step problem just above the Golden Stair


These guys are at one of the locations where you can set a rap back to Wall Street.

There's an option of going around the exposed western aspect of this step instead of going over it. It's pretty funky and we're never sure the rock is going to hold which adds to the fun of going that way. It's not harder, maybe even easier for a little kid, but again, it's funky.


Looking back


The scramble to the Wind Tunnel....

 
Climbers will scramble up and over an outcropping of rock to gain the Wind Tunnel's entrance.

Off Route Variation:
 
There's an exposed variation to reach the Wind Tunnel's entrance on the western aspect of the ridgeline...


Western variation


Back to the standard route on the eastern side of the ridge:


An approach from the eastern side of the ridge

The gully at the bottom-right side of photo drains toward the Petzoldt Ridge.


The large detached flake at the WT's entrance


Wind Tunnel entrance


Looking back


Looking ahead - Wind Tunnel Gully


Wind Tunnel's chockstones & boulders


The last big chockstone


Climbing directly into the left side of the white chockstone is a greater challenge but certainly worth trying. Most people go right (like the climber above) and then step into the channel on the left side.

We will point out that no one was spotting this lead climber. If you're in a group, it's usually wise—and a common courtesy—to spot climbers when it's easy to do so. This certainly isn't a difficult move for the lead, but bad things sometimes happen when people think bad things won't happen. Be careful where you're spotting.....

On July 27, 2014, Brett Verhoef was in the Wind Tunnel when he pulled on a loose boulder which caused him to fall backwards as the 800 pound boulder impacted his foot causing soft-tissue damage, two puncture wounds, and significant bone bruising.


Another look



The climbers shown here are bypassing the chockstone mentioned above by climbing along the eastern wall of the Wind Tunnel Gully.


Wind Tunnel Gully above the chockstone problems


Ascend the drainage and climb out of the Wind Tunnel Gully to an open ledgy area. It's where the gully ends and the ridgeline rises out of it. From there you can assess various options. 
 
Most climbers simply head for the right-facing (east-facing) Jern Dihedral near the very top-center of the above image to gain the Friction Pitch. We will look at several variations first.


Exum Ridge

 
 
 Carman's Pinnacle


Carman's is a detour. It's fun to run up even if it's just for a lookie loo. Carman's Pinnacle has had several names but Carman's has stuck. That name comes from Dave Carman or his brother. Dave was an Exum Guide and happened to help build the JHMR Via Ferrata climbing area. In 2024, the Mountain Resort was charging $495 for "the first 2 people" to climb the VF, unless it was a full day which ran $775 for the first 2 people (guided trip). The public Via Ferrata in Telluride is still free, fyi.
 

Top of Carman's Pinnacle 5.5 to 5.6 in some guidebooks



Overview


A look at your options


After exiting the Wind Tunnel Gully, we often start along the eastern side of the ridge to access the Jern Dihedral. That eastern approach sees less action and it's quick and it's mostly a scramble—if you choose the easiest lines. The Western Chimney variation used to be a common route to reach the Friction Pitch. The Jern Dihedral gets the most attention these days. And from the Jern's base, you can use variations to the east or west such as the Double Cracks or the Jern's western crestline instead of entering the dihedral. 

You can also bypass this entire area by scrambling up the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney or by climbing the more challenging Puff-n-Grunt variation. We're not sure what line Glenn Exum used on his first ascent. There are many variations on this ridge and many provide greater challenges should you seek them.


Let's take a quick look at a few of the less common options before looking at the Jern. We'll start by looking at the Puff-n-Grunt...
 

 The Puff-n-Grunt. Most of it's very easy climbing


In the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range", the authors call it a "difficult (5.6 to 5.7) corner". We tried it in hunting boots. It requires careful climbing at the crux.

You can start the PNG and exit to the base of the Friction Pitch shortly after the passing the crux. Some solid but smallish holds take you across the PNG's left wall on an horizontal traverse to the base of the Friction Pitch. That traverse may make a novice uncomfortable.


PNG's crux.

You can bypass the crux by going around its right side for a much easier line of attack. The left side is the only cruxy part of the PNG that may get up to 5.7 (old trip report on the PNG).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Enough of the Puffy route. Here's the Western Chimney.


The Western Chimney


Western Chimney


The Western Chimney's rating varies with the exit location.
 
Climbing the entire Western Chimney is an uncommon line. It exits at the top of the Friction Pitch. That line is a little convoluted. It's not for beginners. You need to get past a very large overhanging chockstone. Below it, much of the rock is sloppy. And the actual exit to the ridgeline is, umm, interesting. We keep waiting for that chockstone to shed off the mountain like the one that used to be in the Stettner Couloir.

The most common exit from the Western Chimney is to the base of the Friction Pitch. That exit is by a very old cam stuck in a crack. The cam might get removed at some point but it has been there for years. Still there in 2025. 

This exit is right before a big down-step in the chimney. This is the 2nd big down-step in the chimney. You'll see the massive chockstone in the chimney just above this down-step. 

 
Exit
 
 


Climb the short wall out of the chimney. You'll land on a ledge that runs to the base of the Friction Pitch. The chimney is a fairly quick ascent. The exit is the only thing that might slow you down.

You can also exit the chimney before reaching the jammed cam via some other awkward steppy holds on the eastern wall of the chimney. That's maybe 10 feet away (haven't measured it but it's an obvious line). And another line is a tad further south of that (maybe the better one - we like it). It's probably easier if you have some upper body strength but there are plenty of solid holds and it's not difficult climbing. Some finesse is involved on all the lines. 


 Another overview of variations around the Friction Pitch
Click to enlarge


Let's look at the easier Friction-Pitch Bypass before looking at the Jern & Friction Pitch.  


Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney on right (PNG at far left)


A dry FP Bypass Chimney is the easier than climbing the Jern & Friction Pitch. If 60 mph winds are crossing the Friction Pitch, this may be a wise choice. You'll access the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney from the top of the Wind Tunnel. Scramble east into the big chute. The Notch Gully at the top of the chimney drains into here. That adds to the collection of loose rocks. The loose rocks are mostly by your feet. They're a real safety hazard. There are plenty of solid handholds. Also, the bypass may not be a good travel line early in the season when there's a mix of ice and snow.

Near the top of the chimney, you'll probably want to exit to your left (west). It involves moving into a smaller parallel chimney. The only real climbing starts in that chimney. It's above you and slightly hidden. There's a small step and a short ledge that runs back to the parallel chimney. You can also climb a more direct, harder line to the parallel chimney. And you can stick to the right side of the main chimney and try an awkward exit that way. You need to be there.
 
 
Let's finally look at the most common route up the ridge. The Jern Dihedral to the Friction Pitch.


Climber just below the Jern Dihedral

 
Climber on the Jern


Closer look at the Jern Dihedral

Many climbers use protection on the Lower Exum Ridge and then free-solo the upper ridge. This young woman is soloing past other climbers who are waiting on their lead to set a belay. The climbers below us (using the green rope) were using an approach from the Western Chimney area.


Soloing the Jern


The Jern Dihedral is named after climbing guide Ken Jern. He slipped on ice and fell 50 feet down its face. You can watch Ken point out the location in the soloing video we highlighted above. The moniker for the Jern Dihedral used to be the "double cracks" as two cracks run along its western wall. There's a long history of features in the Tetons taking on the names of people who have a special relationship with said feature, and sometimes that involves an accident or death. The Double Cracks along the eastern crest are a different line to reach the Friction Pitch.


Nearing the top of the Jern


This photo was taken from the western crest of the Jern Dihedral.


Jern Dihedral on left, Friction Pitch on right

The three climbers in the Jern are soloing. The Double Cracks just below the Friction Pitch are shown above and below...


 The Double Cracks on the eastern crest
Sticky shoes are helpful


Let's look at the Friction Pitch..


The Friction Pitch starts by the lowest climber


The photographer is on the Double Cracks line. The Puff-n-Grunt is to the right of the ridge crest. The crux of the Friction Pitch is very short, just a couple moves. The climber in the red shirt is approaching it.


Climber entering the crux of the Friction Pitch


This climber is using the Knob Line and moving right off the top knob (by bottom foot). There are two knobs that many climbers use before entering the friction zone. Some move left from the knobs, some right. Both are common. Neither better. When you're on the rock, your perspective is different. The footholds seem less secure. The depressions smaller. The angle steeper. Death closer.
 
"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" and both of Richard Rossiter books, "Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park", and "Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park", suggest going up from the knobs and "right to a shallow grove and upward to the top of the slab." In the book "Teton Rock Climbs" by Aaron Gams, he suggests that going left off the knob is the better option. Climbers are all over the place on the friction zone so don't feel tied to any one line. With sticky shoes all lines are pretty similar.


The two knoby protrusions are small but work well

 
Just to the left of the lower knob is a thin landing strip that's sometimes used as a foothold. Notice that the slope of the rock changes as you step off the knobs.

If you're standing on the top knob with an outstretched arm in front of you, you may find a nice fingertip hold between 10 and 2 o'clock. That hold will help you move into the 'shallow grove' if you move right, also good for going left. There's also a nice fingertip hold at arm's length to the left at 9 o'clock — more likely to be used by climbers left of the Knob Line but sometimes used by climbers moving left. You might be able to palm the edge of the Vaginal Line (discussed below) if you move left.





The above climber stays to the west of the topmost knob (used only as a handhold). He used the bottom knob as a foothold. He stays closer to the Vaginal Line to his left. Many climbers use the upper knob as a foothold to get a little higher on the slope before they commit to the friction section.

Usually, the real crux of the Friction Pitch is in your mind if you have sticky rubber underfoot. And, for the record, people have climbed the ridge in trail running shoes, work boots, bare feet, and whatever old-timers used in the 1930s. Of course, if it's icy, it's just dangerous. Wet rock isn't much better.
 
The Friction Pitch is often rated as a 5.5 pitch. Some rate it at 5.4. If you're the guy slipping down the rock in the next video, you may have a very different opinion. You wouldn't be alone. The climber's bible upped the class rating for the Friction Pitch to 5.6 in the 2023 edition. Maybe everything seems harder for Renny. Maybe everyone was complaining. Maybe he saw people struggling. We don't know.



This climber slips three times on the Friction Pitch (37 seconds)


The gentleman who slips is at a slightly more difficult location if you're without grippy shoes. And he's at a more dangerous location (edge of the crest). It's unclear how sticky his soles are. Most climbers are moving more thoughtfuly with their footwork. Watching his lead cruise along without any problems may have given him a false sence of security. He had no further problems once he moved away from the edge of the crest and found the knob line.


Soloing the Knob Line


We usually go left from the upper knob and don't even think about where we're planting our left foot. We may use the fingertip holds to maintain balance. That helps if the wind's blowing.

On June 25, James McDonald, Larry Susanka and Dan Sola were climbing the Exum Ridge in icy conditions during a storm. Sola fell while leading the Friction Pitch with crampons on icy rock. He was blown over backwards by a gust of wind. But, that's not the best part of the story. The park's medical PA, Lanny Johnson, talked them through a dislocated shoulder reduction and they self-rescued.

On July 26, 2003, at 3:35pm, lightning struck the ridge and fatally injured Erica Summers (27) while climbing the Friction Pitch. One of her partners, Rod Liberal, was having trouble with the now wet, smooth rock. He was about halfway up when lightning struck and blew him off the ridge, swinging him about 30 feet. He survived.

Around 11:30 am on August 5, 1999, Ranger Janet Wilts and Chris Goodhue were struck by lightning at the top of the Friction Pitch. Wilts reported that the lightning entered her right elbow, traveled down her arm, and exited her right thumb and forefinger, with accompanying numbness, tingling, and weakness. Goodhue reported that the lightning entered her buttocks, traveled down her right leg, and exited her middle toe, leaving a small exit wound.
 

Let's take a quick look at the Vaginal Line.


Western side of Friction Pitch

 
The area west of the Vaginal Line provides good rock for climbing but it's rarely used. The obvious crack runs to a fatter crack that's just out of view. This lower crack/face is not for the beginner climber.


Vaginal Line (center-left)


Inside the Vaginal Line


Just a different line. Plenty of small depressions. We once got a boot stuck in the vaginal line and had fun popping it out. Classic mistake. The knob line might be best if you are using mountaineering boots.


The Vaginal Line


Some climbers will move rightward onto a narrow foothold instead of traveling through the slot.


The next few pics were taken from just above the area where protection options are limited, and holds are mostly friction.


Climbers at the base of the Friction Pitch


At this point, the photographer is on a small ledge just above the faith-based part of the Friction Pitch. There's an old piton just above the small ledge—to the west of the photographer—that some will clip into after passing this friction zone... test it if you use it. 


Hmmm. Still holding up and being used in 2025


Soloing through the friction zone - Knob Line


Finding a fingertip hold (right hand) at the friction zone. Vaginal line is just to his left.


Soloing off the knob line


Small ledge above crux


A look back down the FP and Wind Tunnel


Ellen soloing with speed up the FP crux on Labor Day 2025
 
 
RJ was placing pro just below the slab—or trying to. Unlikely to have prevented hitting the deck had he slipped (stuff happens) but it would have stopped a longer tumble.


Friction Pitch - past the friction zone. 
(Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral on climber's right)

 
Friction Pitch - approaching the top


The Notch Gully


Climb the western ridgeline above the Friction Pitch or run up the gully to the east - both easy. The ridgeline is a great option with sketchy snow in the gully.


Notch Gully - looking back down

This is the gully that drains into the Friction-Pitch Bypass chimney.


View toward the V-Pitch from the Notch Gully.


The common line out of the Notch Gully is an easy scramble up some rock to the east (see picture).

Off Route Variations and Escape Option: 
 
Another variation leaves the notch and climbs the exposed face below an escape ledge. Test your holds! Regain the ridgeline at the south end of the ledge if you go that way. That exposed variation is a fun climb on blocky rocks but it's probably not for beginners. It's not hard, it's just more dangerous. Loose rocks on the face and ledge could dislodge due to rope drag so some climbers may wish to avoid it. Stick to the most common exit if you're looking for the safest line. The safer line will also get you to the escape ledge if you actually need to escape the ridge.

All of the escape options above here take you to the Owen-Spalding Route. 


Escape options


The escape ledge below the V-Pitch


The escape ledge to the Owen-Spalding route is easy 4th and low 5th class scrambling over many loose rocks. 
 
 
 
Escape Ledges
 

If you're really bored with all the 5.5 climbing, head for the escape ledge just above the Notch Gully and find the 5.7 chimney with a chockstone. It takes you to another ledge higher up that runs back toward the ridgeline to gain the V-Pitch. This is the top of the 5.8 West Face of the Exum Ridge climbing route which Bob Merriam and Dick Pownall put up in 1954. A 5.8 move is above the 5.7 chimney on that route if you climb the face. 
 
Bob Merriam was another victim of a lightning strike on this mountain while guiding a mom and her teenage daughter up the Grand. He was on the mountain's upper horizontal ridgeline. It knocked him unconscious to the horror of his clients.

Back to the standard route....


Zoomed in look at the V-Pitch from the Notch Gully


Overview - just above the Notch Gully

The access to the escape ledge will be fairly obvious if you're looking for it. It's not obvious if you don't know about it. Black-colored rock litters the ground at the southern end of the ledge where it meets the ridgeline.


Two climbers are at the bottom of the FP Bypass Crack


The approach to the V-Pitch was the location of one of the more perplexing free-soloing accidents in recent history. On August 8, 2014, 60-year-old Steve Markusen's last memory was "of climbing the easy slabs to the exposed so-named “V Pitch,” at 10:00 a.m.". He was found by other climbers standing on his feet and wobbling with three broken ribs, a punctured lung, a lacerated spleen, and lacerations that ultimately required 42 stitches and staples. It's not known what caused the accident.

Steve might have been hit by falling rock but the odds seem low given the area. Ice seems unlikely. The easiest lines are not difficult to climb (mostly scrambling). Perhaps he choose a challenging line and slipped. Those lines are usually easy to spot if he wanted to avoid them. It's quite possible he just lost his balance and fell hard. It's a mystery. This was Steve's 3rd time up the ridge solo and he was an experienced climber. He first climbed the Grand with his dad Dave Markusen in 1969. As they say, anything can happen anytime, anywhere. 54-year-old Conrad Anker had a heart attack while climbing at 20,000 feet.


Closer look


The crack variation is probably easier than the V-Pitch when it's dry, but the V-Pitch isn't very difficult. Variations further east of the bypass crack are mostly used to go under the eastern aspect of the ridgeline and are considered off-route variations.  


V-Pitch bypass crack


View to the SW


The climbers are approaching the V-Pitch. We're below the eastern aspect of the summit ridgeline climbing slabs. We're off route. 


The V-Pitch - center right

The snow in June can be sketchy on this face. It depends upon the weather, time of day, etc.
 

Climber in bypass crack



Soloing the V-Pitch

The crux of the V-Pitch is nearer the top where this climber slows down (and as we zoom out) - just after the 1 minute mark.
.

Bill leading Unsoeld's Lieback

 
Unsoeld's Lieback runs along the eastern crest of the V-Pitch (sticky shoes helpful). The bypass crack and the V-Pitch might be covered in snow (or filled w/ ice) during the start of the summer season. The lieback is usually the first thing to burn off.


Another look


V-Pitch



Take time to enjoy the views

 
The western aspect above the V-Pitch
 
  
The common escape route directly above the V-Pitch is highlighted with yollow dots. There are times when five minutes can be the difference between life and death on this mountain especially with incoming weather. It's not just the threat of thunderstorms, sometimes it's falling temperatures and a wet mountain. Or moist clouds hitting the mountain. Quite suddenly, ice can be everywhere with an incoming cold front, or after the sun sets.


West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney has an oddball collection of holds to choose from. One might use lieback, friction, and stemming moves to get up it. It's awkward if slick. This area does stay shaded for much of the morning so icing is more common here than on the sunny parts of the ridge. Getting up the West-Leaning Chimney with a large backpack limits climbing maneuvers. That can make life a living hell in a tight space if it's really icy.
 
If the ice looks too difficult to manage, climbers can always scramble down the broad escape ledge to reach the Owen-Spalding route. It goes to the base of Sargent's Chimney from which you can retreat off the mountain or ascend up the Owen. Access the escape ledge closer to the top of the V-Pitch. The Owen-Spalding might be in far worse shape than the Exum if you find ice here.  

Variations usually avoided by climbers: 

On the right side of the photo is an option to access the ridgeline for stronger climbers along the prow. BTW, there's an old rap station a short distance atop the prow.

Another option is to go under the prow and access the ridge's eastern side. The friction slabs below the prow are a little sketchier than they look. Climbers have taken slips there as they try an eastern approach to bypass the West-Leaning Chimney. And some have taken falls on the eastern variation...
 
Russ Soderlund was above the V-Pitch when he decided to go down the 5.4 friction slabs to the eastern side of the ridge. After passing the slabs, he slipped while navigating the eastern aspect and fell into the Ford Couloir, stopping at a point about 60 meters above the Petzoldt Ridge where he was found dead. 

There are other variations but they're best left to those who know the area.

Back to the regular route...


West-Leaning Chimney


Better than ice but still awkward


Exiting the West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney has many many names: Petzoldt's Lieback, Black Alcove, West-Leaning Crack, etc. The Jackson Hole Mountain Guides like to call it The Dark Side.


West-Leaning Chimney


An oddball collection of handholds are to her right, some deep inside the void. It's a little puzzle when dry or wet. This woman is bracing herself off the shaded wall behind her and using a tiny foothold with her lower foot. When it's dry, the rock is pretty sticky for a friction foothold. It's not a polished marble slab. We cruise down it without any trouble.


Climbers heading for the ridgeline after leaving the WLC

After getting above the West-Leaning Chimney, climbers are usually heading east toward the ridgeline which will take them to the Boulder Problem in the Sky. They can also move toward the L-shaped rock feature seen on the left side of the image.


L-shaped rock feature northeast of the West-Leaning Chimney


This feature has also been called the V-slot. The Boulder Problem in the Sky's southern jam crack is on the ridgeline directly above the L-shaped rock. It's the crux of the BPITS.
 
 
The 2 options to reach the Boulder Problem in the Sky
 
A gully on the north side of the L-shaped rock is sometimes used as a bypass to avoid the Boulder Problem in the Sky. You'll scramble down to the gully from any location that looks manageable and look for a place to safely cross it. Sometimes that's easier said than done.


Exiting the bypass under the Boulder Problem in the Sky.


 This area is shaded for much of the day. Ice can stick around.


Looking toward the BPITS from the L-shaped rock

Just head for the southern side of the large outcropping on the ridgeline.


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


 The short face with the crack faces southeast and it has exposure to the southeast.


Many ways to ascend.


Take your time and examine all your options. The climbing guide is making the easiest start to the ascent. If you're tall enough to reach the edge, it's helpful.

There's no way this is a 5.6 climb in our mind. But, Renny Jackson changed it to 5.6 in the 4th edition of his guidebook.


David at the Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack 
 
 

Alex and Gage near the northern end of the BPITS


This dip may challenge a small child but there's another line of attack to the east (left side of image) that will work for a small child on a short rope.
 
At some point before the 2022 climbing season, the Boulder Problem In The Sky shed some rock features near its northern end. Such activity can leave unstable rocks in its wake. One is highlighted in the above picture. We made the mistake of brushing against that rock and it started to wobble. It was later stabilized to some degree afterward.


Looking back at climbers exiting the BPITS


You might see climbers to the northwest while approaching and leaving the BPITS. They're most likely on the Owen-Spalding Route.

Exum Mountain Guides had a group of high school students on the ridgeline when a blast of white lightning shot through the air. They hightailed it for the Owen rappel. Besides seeing the threat of lightning or clouds building, quite often you can feel or hear the electricity in the air as the threat develops. If so, you need to retreat without hesitation.
 

 The summit ridgeline


Run along the ridgeline and go under the eastern aspect of the Horse to gain the summit. When dry, this might be the easiest path for kids. Or, cross over to the Owen-Spalding route in front of the Horse (go left) and approach the summit from the western side. That's usually quicker for us when dry. You can also climb the Horse (start on the SW side by a detached rock) but few climbers do. Many are mentally or physically exhausted and just want to reach the summit ASAP. 

The next picture shows a common path to the summit under the eastern aspect of the Horse......

Eastern Aspect Summit Ridgeline

Scramble to the summit and enjoy the views.

Western Aspect Summit Ridgeline

The Owen-Spalding (purple route) is highlighted to the bottom of Sargent's Chimney. Green lines are OS variations. Gold lines are possible travel lines for Upper Exum climbers and one highlights an escape to Sargent's Chimney. The "Crux BPITS" text is highlighting the location of the Boulder Problem in the Sky's jam crack.


Rescue off the Exum Ridge
 

FYI: Bailing via the Ford, Chevy & Stettner Couloir can be a gamble and it's not recommended. Most narrow couloirs should be avoided during bad weather due to runoff, and they should be avoided when high temperatures may cause flushing. Flushing can include rocks, snow, ice, and water. Some couloirs can hold ice and snow all year long. It can be very difficult to avoid hazards from above such as avalanches or rockfall.

The Ford Couloir is named after 25-year-old Fred Ford who lost his life in the couloir after being struck by two large blocks of ice and a rock. Ford was struck in the head by the ice and struck on an arm by the rock. What followed after that resulted in his death.


Summit

Every so often, someone will be eschewing clothes on the summit. Well-known locals and out-of-townees have snapped birthday-suit photos and posted them on social media. It's not exactly normalized but don't be surprised if you're up here often. 
 
The Grand has been skied in the same manner. Couples have been married and gotten engaged on the summit. Look closely and you may find a lost engagement ring. No doubt someone has made whoopee on the summit. There's probably a record for the most attempts. It's Jackson Hole.

Glenn Exum is credited with taking the first pictures of people on the summit sans clothes. Or the first to admit it.


Looking South


Looking NW into Cascade Canyon


Jackson & Jenny Lake, Teewinot etc


Jackson Lake at upper right


South



Pano


Eastern Side views
 



This is the eastern view between Glacier Gulch and Garnet Canyon. The Grand's Second Tower lost a large part of its summit spire in 2022, and again in 2025.....





The Downclimb



As previously mentioned, descending the entire Owen-Spalding route is what most free-soloing climbers do. That's also the backup plan for roped parties when they can't use the Owen Rappel to reach the Upper Saddle (compromised rope, lost gear, too many people waiting in bad weather — has happened). It can be downclimbed with a pretty short rope if you need protection and you still have some rope. It's quicker for most soloing parties to downclimb the entire route than use the rap when everything's dry.

Let's look at the rappel back to the Upper Saddle, AKA the Owen Rappel.




Most roped parties will use a dynamic 60m rope thrown south from the main rappel's sling. The longest drop is stamped "40m" from the bolted chain. The rap off the sling is shorter but you'll still want to throw your rope to the south. The landing zone slopes downhill so the distance to the Upper Saddle varies from different setups. The 70' rappel is funky and rarely used but it's an alternative.
If you click on the image from a PC's browser, the bigger full-sized link will open up. On a phone, Apple, etc, you may need to tap the image and select the option to open the LINK (not image) in a new tab to see the full-size image.




Exum Ridgeline seen from the SW

Click to enlarge images






~~~~~~~~~~~~~


A few trip reports for April through October

April 9th, 2016 (OS)
April 17th, 2016 (OS)
May 30th, 2016 (OS)
June 15, 2009 (OS) 
June 19th, 2016 (UXM & OS)
July 9th, 2016  (OS)
July 17th, 2016 (UXM)
August 9th, 2015 (OS)
August 25th, 2015 (OS evening)
September 20th, 2015 (OS)
September 26th, 2015 (OS)
September 10th 2016 (UXM & OS) 
September 17th 2016 (UXM & OS)
October 17th, 2015 (OS)
October 25th, 2015 (OS)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Kids & Seniors


Maybe


Most single-digit kids would rather visit McDonald's than be sugar-drugged up this mountain. But, kids start skiing and climbing seconds after birth in Jackson Hole and there's a long history of attention-seeking adults in the Tetons who supercharge these activities.

6-year-old Beo Charette climbed the Upper Exum Ridge in 2014, and claimed the record for the youngest person to summit via the Exum route. Jimmy Chin's 7-year-old daughter Marina climbed the Upper Exum route in 2021. That's her in the above screenshot from a CBS Sunday Morning show. The archive summary for Leigh Ortenburger says his daughter Carolyn previously held the girls' age record on the Grand Teton after climbing the Exum Ridge "at the age of seven" but we found no evidence of that. We assume it's a typo. Between 1956 & 1958, Jeff Lowe (age 7), Greg Lowe (age 8), and Mike Lowe (age 10) all climbed the Exum Ridge with their father Ralph. Those are just a few of the many kids who have climbed (to various degrees) the Exum route.

Peter Eubank climbed the Owen-Spalding route (your descent) at the age of 6. We mention that because it's sometimes reported that he was 5-years-old. However, after some digging into several sources, it seems that he climbed Teewinot at 5, not the Grand. Peter's family has had notable ripped-from-the-headlines life experiences that span the globe so he certainly wasn't your average kid. Nonetheless, if someone's bringing their 5-year-old preschooler on the Grand, it's probably all about the adult's needs and desires instead of the kid's age-appropriate needs & desires.
 
Highlighting the youngest or oldest to do something in the Tetons has a long history. The Salt Lake Telegram proclaimed 10-year-old Fred Eriksson of Stockholm, Sweden, was the youngest to summit the Grand on August 27th, 1934, and Dr John H. Strong (76) as the oldest. Climbing at 76 is pretty uncommon but Paul Horton and Irene Beardsley climbed the Exum Ridge the day before her 76th birthday back in 2011. Former JHMR owner 81-year-old Connie Kemmerer and her 81-year-old long-time climbing partner Kay Wilson climbed the Grand's Owen-Spalding route with Exum Mtn Guides in 2025. We find that way more impressive than most ascents by very young kids.


Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers

 
The Jenny Lake ranger station is staffed by the Jenny Lake climbing rangers. Most of the rangers are very familiar with the Grand's moderate routes and some are familiar with the most challenging routes in the range. They post updates about backcountry conditions to Instagram.

Climbers who are backcountry camping must pick up their backcountry camping permits at the Jenny Lake ranger station when it's open during the summer.

The climbing rangers might be hard to reach by phone but you can try calling them: 307-739-3343  — summer only. Or, stop by the ranger station if you're in GTNP. The ranger station is open 8 to 5pm daily (map). Their opening and closing dates change yearly. They usually open in early June and close in early September. Off-season info: 307-739-3399.

Climbing permits are not required as of 2026.

The park's climbing rangers provide search and rescue services at no charge to visitors. You can join the local community in supporting these services by making a donation to the Grand Teton National Park Foundation, a 501(c)3 non-profit organization, which administers the Jenny Lake Rangers Fund. Or make a donation directly to the park for those services.


~ Best time for Soloing ~
 

The best time for soloing is usually between mid-July and mid to late August. Varies yearly. Of course, fresh snow and ice can cover the mountain at any time of year. The Tetons got hammered with 6 feet of snow at the Lower Saddle in July of 1993.

You'll always find mixed conditions on the Upper Exum in June. The degree to which those conditions affect climbers toward the end of the month and into early July depends upon the weather. It's common to find remnants of winter snow and ice on the Upper Exum in early July, and conditions on the Owen-Spalding may be far worse.

September's conditions are less predictable than June's but you should be prepared for greater challenges with each passing week. It's not unusual to start September with fresh snow or ice. It might clean up in a day or stick around. Sometimes the weather and conditions cycle between good and bad well into October.
 
 
 ~ Conditions ~
 

Besides the climbing rangers Instagram account, there's always Mountain Project's forums for beta about conditions. Local sources include the AAC Climber's Ranch, Teton Mountaineering, Black Diamond, and Teton County's climbing gym at the Rec Center. The trailhead is a great source of beta as climbers return from a climb. You will certainly cross paths with descending climbers on your way into Garnet Canyon during summer daylight hours. If you live here, just ask around. The Teton Climbers’ Coalition might be another resource if you attend one of their events.

We sometimes post updates about conditions to our Wyoming Whiskey Home Page. Before social media took off, we climbed weekly and posted weekly updates. There's less of a need nowadays. It's always useful to keep tabs on valley rainfall, upper-elevation temperatures, and valley webcams leading up to a climb. 

 

Weather



Unless there's a massive stable high pressure system parked over the Northern Rockies, a summer forecast is only good for about 6 hours. Even within 6 hours, there's often too much vagueness and uncertainty to ascertain real threats and timelines if there's any instability in the atmosphere. Because none can make the call on exactly when, or if, vague threats will materialize, alpine climbers are reading the weather as they travel. Most get an early start to avoid localized precipitation due to orographic lift which tends to develop in the afternoon & early evening hours. That common threat is not always in a forecast.
 
You may want to reconsider your plans if the forecast discussion mentions monsoon moisture, low pressure or a cold front hitting the range.


The saddle's station is usually assembled in June and dismantled around mid-September once the summer climbing season wraps up. You'll have to use another high-elevation weather station if its data isn't available. The National Weather Service's Lower Saddle weather page might have the saddle's data online if it's up and running.
 
Sat Images from GOES 
(some GOES updates are 5 min apart)



 Emergency Contacts
 

(Open 24/7, June 1 to Sept 30)


GTNP's Emergency Dispatch Center is open 24 hours every day during the summer high season (usually June 1 - Sept. 30). Outside of the high season, hours are 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. (subject to change).

911 works for voice calls and texting in Teton County, WY & ID, 24/7/365. Calls go to the Teton County Sheriff's dispatch center, not the park's dispatch center. If you're closer to an Idaho cellular tower, your voice call or text message might be transferred to the Teton County, Idaho, dispatch center.


 
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any)



Community Healthcare


St John's Health Hospital
625 E. Broadway
(east of Town Square)
307-733-3636
Open 24/7
(south end of town) 
307-739-8999
Open 9am to 6pm
Hrs subject to change
Closed Thanksgiving & Christmas


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Route Details - Upper Exum
Route Details - Owen-Spalding
The Approach to the Lower Saddle
Wyoming Whiskey Home Page
 

$10 per person for the climbing school


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

1947 Silent Film of Glen Exum, Paul Petzoldt, and Virginia Garner on the Upper Exum


Virginia's husband, Raymond C. Garner shot the movie which stands out as an impressive effort for a non-commercial climbing film. The original 16 mm version of The Mountain is in the National Archives.
 
According to the Academic Film Archive of North America, Ray Garner began his photographic career in 1935, filming Boy Scouts (or assistant scout masters) on a climbing expedition in the Tetons, calling the film "The Mountaineers Club Teton Expedition". Unfortunately, that film has been lost. Ray wasn't just a filmmaker who dabbled in climbing. He was an outstanding climber for his time. He also guided with the Petzoldt-Exum guide service. Two years after making this film, in 1949, Dick Pownall, Ray Garner and Art Gilkey made the first ascent of the iconic IV 5.8 North Face of the Grand Teton, which soon became one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" (perhaps less 'classic' today).
 
Ray was also a member of the American Alpine Club, leading climbs in North America, Europe, and Africa. Ray and Virginia (sometimes Jinny or Ginny) were blazing an unusual path through life. Evidence of their adventures shows up in unexpected places. The Virginia Park in Canyonlands National Park was named for Virginia. She was made an honorary Tuskegee airman after being taught to fly by members of the famed African-American combat unit. Virginia's diary of her time working on the Africa Motion Picture Project was turned into a book called Images Out Of Africa. And the Central Arizona Mountain Rescue SAR team traces its beginnings back to the 1940s when Ray and Virginia were climbing in the southwest.

One of the best parts of the above film is watching the three climbers slide and run down the snow fields at the end. Their summit register includes Howard Friedman, a former member of the renowned 10th Mountain Division and a photographer for Life Magazine and Sports Illustrated. Howard was also on the first ascent of the very popular North Ridge Italian Cracks variation. He spent many years climbing in the Tetons. We're guessing that Howard helped Ray with the filming. While climbing, Paul, Glenn and Virginia look like your typical slightly-out-of-their-element guided climbers that one sees every summer in the Tetons. At one point, Virginia takes what looks like a staged slip over rock as the film cuts to a calm Glenn Exum.
 
 
Raymond C. Garner
 
 
The first known filming of an ascent on the Grand was in 1930 when Paul Petzoldt guided a party of three men to the summit and they "Took 'movies' all the way". Where those movies ended up is a mystery. A year later in 1931, Paul Petzoldt led a group on the Upper Exum while newly minted Grand Teton National Park ranger George L. Waters III filmed their climb. You can watch the short, grainy 1931 Grand Teton climbing video on Forrest McCarthy's YouTube channel. Alpinist magazine covered the video's backstory.


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