The Grand Teton's Upper Exum Climbing Route

 
The Upper Exum Climb




Upper Exum Climbing Route Overview
Click to see original larger image


The south-facing Upper Exum Ridge is a common alternative to the shadier west-facing Owen-Spalding route. The climbing is longer, harder, and more sustained on steep sections compared to the Owen and there's a short faith-based friction section. It's rated as a Class 5.5 climb and it's considered to be an appropriate climb for "beginner to intermediate" climbers. In the book A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range, Renny Jackson upped the rating of the route to 5.6 in 2023. Mountain Project has it at 5.5 as does every other guidebook. Your mileage may vary.

Free-soloing the Upper Exum with no previous climbing experience is not recommended. Consider the Owen-Spalding first. If that's easy for you, this is worth considering.

Unlike the Owen-Spalding route, the average free-soloing climber may find it very difficult or impossible to safely turn around and retreat down the Exum Ridge in a timely manner especially under poor conditions. Many escape further up the mountain if storm clouds are building and descend the Owen-Spalding.

All climbing advice and opinions should be taken with a grain of salt when it comes to the highly personal experience of climbing. It's a puzzle and experience that is different for every climber. It's impossible for us to know how hard the climb will be for you, how well you will manage the hazards or how elastic your comfort zone will be with or without a rope.


Maybe


Most single-digit kids would rather visit McDonald's than be sugar-drugged up this mountain. But, kids start skiing and climbing seconds after birth in Jackson Hole and there's a long history of attention-seeking adults in the Tetons who supercharge these activities.

6-year-old Beo Charette climbed the Upper Exum Ridge in 2014, and claimed the record for the youngest person to summit via the Exum route. Jimmy Chin's 7-year-old daughter Marina climbed the Upper Exum route in 2021. That's her in the above screenshot from a CBS Sunday Morning show. Supposedly (we haven't corroborated the claim), Leigh Ortenburger's daughter Carolyn previously held the girls' age record on the Grand Teton after climbing the Exum Ridge at the age of seven in '69 or '70.  Between 1956 & 1958, Jeff Lowe (age 7), Greg Lowe (age 8), and Mike Lowe (age 10) all climbed the Exum Ridge with their father Ralph. Those are just a few of the many kids who have climbed (to various degrees) the Exum route.

Peter Eubank climbed the Owen-Spalding route (your descent) at the age of 6. We mention that because it's sometimes reported that he was 5-years-old. However, after some digging into several sources, it seems that he climbed Teewinot at 5, not the Grand. Peter's family has had notable ripped-from-the-headlines life experiences that span the globe which makes his climbing looks more like critical training. Nonetheless, if someone's bringing their 5-year-old preschooler on the Grand, it's probably all about the adult's needs and desires instead of the kid's age-appropriate needs & desires.
 
Highlighting the youngest or oldest to do something in the Tetons has a long history. The Salt Lake Telegram proclaimed 10-year-old Fred Eriksson of Stockholm, Sweden, was the youngest to summit the Grand on August 27th, 1934, and Dr John H. Strong (76) as the oldest. Climbing at 76 is pretty uncommon but Paul Horton and Irene Beardsley climbed the Exum Ridge the day before her 76th birthday back in 2011. We find that way more impressive than most ascents by very young kids.


Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers

 
The Jenny Lake ranger station is a good resource for climbers. Most of the climbing rangers are familiar with the Grand's moderate routes, and some are familiar with the most challenging routes in the range. They can also hare approach tips and information about climbing conditions. They post updates about conditions to Instagram. The ranger station is the only place for climbers to pick up backcountry camping permits during the summer. And all Garnet Canyon campers, climbing or not, must pick up permits at the JL ranger station (the canyon has special regulations for camping).

The climbing rangers might be hard to reach by phone but you can try calling them at 307-739-3343 for information. Or, you can stop by the ranger station if you're in GTNP. The ranger station is open 8 to 5pm daily (map). Their opening and closing dates change yearly: June 8 to Sept. 8 in 2024.

Climbing permits are not required as of 2024.

The park's climbing rangers provide search and rescue services at no charge to visitors. You can join the local community in supporting these services by making a donation to the Grand Teton National Park Foundation, a 501(c)3 non-profit organization, which administers the Jenny Lake Rangers Fund. Or make a donation directly to the park for those services.


~ Conditions ~
 

The Upper Exum's conditions are often better than the Owen-Spalding's conditions because of its southern aspect. Soloing climbers are exiting the mountain via the Owen route so it's important to make sure conditions are passable for you on both routes. If you're climbing with ropes, conditions on the Owen are less of an issue. Roped parties will bypass most of the Owen-Spalding's sketchier sections by using the rappel to the Upper Saddle (AKA: the Owen Rappel). Free-soloing climbers rarely use the rappel.

The prime season for soloing is usually between mid-July and mid to late August. Varies yearly. You'll always find mixed conditions on the Upper Exum in June. The degree to which those mixed conditions affect climbers toward the end of the month and into early July depends upon the weather. September's conditions are less predictable but you should be prepared for greater challenges with each passing week. It's not unusual to start September with fresh snow or ice. It might clean up in a day or stick around.
 
Besides the climbing rangers Instagram account, there's always Mountain Project's forums for beta about conditions. Local sources include the AAC Climber's Ranch, Teton Mountaineering, Black Diamond, and Teton County's climbing gym at the Rec Center. The trailhead is a great source of beta as climbers return from a climb. You will certainly cross paths with descending climbers on your way into Garnet Canyon during summer daylight hours. If you live here, just ask around. The Teton Climbers’ Coalition might be another resource if you attend one of their events.

We sometimes post updates about conditions to our Wyoming Whiskey Home Page but it's not very common. Before social media took off, we posted weekly updates. There's less of a need nowadays. It's always useful to keep tabs on valley rainfall, upper-elevation temperatures, and valley webcams leading up to a climb.


Weather



~ SUMMER ONLY ~
(usually mid-June to mid-Sept)
 
When MesoWest servers are down for maintenance, we are unable to generate the weather graphics. At that time, you can check the NWS weather station map or the Synoptic weather station map for the Lower Saddle's current weather data. Or go directly to the NWS weather page for the Lower Saddle's weather station. The saddle's station is dismantled once the summer climbing season wraps up so you'll need to use another high-elevation station weather station for weather data at that point.



*** NWS Hourly Lower Saddle Forecast 11,600'
Mulit-Day Lower Saddle Forecast

NWS Forecast Discussion Western WY
NWS Forecast Discussion Eastern ID
Jackson KJAC Dashboard
NWS Forecast: GTNP / JXN
 
Sat Images from GOES
(some GOES updates are 5 min apart)
 Active Fires & Smoke Plumes

  
A forecast is good for about 6 hours. Even within 6 hours, there's often too much vagueness and uncertainty to ascertain real threats and timelines if there's modest instability in the atmosphere. Because none can make the call on exactly when, or if, vague threats will materialize, alpine climbers are reading the weather as they travel and hoping for the best. Most get an early start to avoid localized precipitation due to orographic lift which is common in the mountains. Localized rainfall tends to develop between the afternoon & early evening hours. You may want to carefully consider your plans if the forecast discussion mentions monsoon moisture, low pressure or a cold front hitting the range.
 

 Emergency Contacts
 

307-739-3301
GTNP Emergency Dispatch
(Open 24/7, June 1 to Sept 30)


GTNP's Emergency Dispatch Center is open 24 hours every day during the summer high season (usually June 1 - Sept. 30). Outside of the high season, hours are 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. (subject to change).

911 works for voice calls and texting in Teton County, WY & ID, 24/7/365. Calls go to the Teton County Sheriff's dispatch center, not the park's dispatch center. If you're closer to an Idaho cellular tower, your voice call or text message might be transferred to the Teton County, Idaho, dispatch center.


 
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any)



Community Healthcare


St John's Health Hospital
625 E. Broadway
(east of Town Square)
307-733-3636
Open 24/7
(south end of town) 
307-739-8999
Open 9am to 6pm
Hrs subject to change
Closed Thanksgiving & Christmas



The Approach

 
This webpage focuses on the actual climbing challenges above the Lower Saddle and presents only a brief introduction to the approach to the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle via Garnet Canyon. Many climbers simply follow other climbers to the Lower Saddle during the height of the busy summer climbing season; nonetheless, it's good to have a firmer understanding of your approach even if it's just the following maps.


Water sources & camping locations


There are many water sources along the trail. We never filtered our water but we choose the source carefully. Spalding Falls is fed by a spring at the top of the falls. The summer trail takes you to it. We can't say how well it gets filtered while underground but it has been used without filtering for decades. If you want some clean tap water before leaving the trailhead, there's a free outdoor water station at the South Jenny Lake Store.

There's a pit toilet at the trailhead. Climbers are advised to bring WAG Bags for upper elevations, and bury human waste at lower elevations. These days, wag bags are considered best practice at all elevations.

Besides the backcountry camping zones in Garnet Canyon, technical bivy sites are also available. They can be reserved online or acquired through a first-come, first-served walk-in permit. Other camping locations around the valley are covered on our Jackson Hole Camping Guide but it's rarely updated. Of course, many commercial websites and apps cover every camping option in great detail and do a better job staying up-to-date. The Friends of the Bridger-Teton have some tips on camping in the valley. As does the BTNF which has many campgrounds & dispersed sites. There's a 5-day stay limit in certain areas of the BTNF: 5-day limit Map. BTNF camping map and here.




You're heading for the Grand's Lower Saddle which sits between the Grand Teton and the Middle Teton in the North Fork of Garnet Canyon. The climbers' trail runs all the way to the Lower Saddle. The approach will be snow free at some point during the summer; usually by mid-July, sometimes earlier, sometimes later. The sunny Upper Exum route might clean up before the approach.

The dry summer trail to the saddle is mostly well defined and easily navigated. It does cross two boulder fields where the trail disappears for over 200 ft (see above map). At both boulder fields, the trail resumes to your southwest as you ascend. The climbers' trail disappears in an insignificant way in a few spots between the 1st Boulder Field and the Meadows Camping Zone. Usually, the trail continues just in front of you. Take the path of least resistance. The trail is always near the creek as you approach Spalding Falls, and north of the creek. If you don't know the area, it helps to examine the approach to the Lower Saddle in more detail if you're traveling when it's dark. Or use a tracking app.


"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" pegged the distance to the Lower Saddle at 7.5 miles in the 2023 edition; however, they also had a map showing the distance closer to 6.3 miles. Go figure.

You may see a few side trails on the approach. Some spurs go to camping spots, others are used to avoid early-season snow. Some are shortcuts.


Approach above Garnet Canyon's Meadows


Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope - Rockfall Zone!



Climbers often kick rocks down the headwall as they move above the Fixed Rope. Stay alert and avoid being in the line of fire. Never travel directly above the Fixed Rope to the west or northwest during the summer due to the high probability of causing rockfall on climbers below you. In some locations the rock is too unstable to remain in place no matter how carefully you move. This area is also the site of natural landslides & natural rockfall.

After leaving the Fixed Rope, climbers follow a path toward the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle. They travel to the toe of the Middle Teton as it sits on the saddle. They end up by the most southeastern camping site and a source of water.

Before continuing, let's take a moment to share the following video:


The Upper Exum with David, Ken & Lauren


David Gonzales took his talents and a video camera up the Grand in 2007. The result was this fine gem of cinematography which was also YouTube's first video of free-soloing climbers on Grand Teton. Google snapped up YouTube for $1.65 billion in 2006 back when cynics questioned YouTube’s staying power. According to Google, YouTube generated $15.1 billion in ad revenue in fiscal 2019. It may be a loss leader but it's a nice resource for climbers.


VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS

Middle Teton shown at 0:28
Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope at 0:38
Lower Saddle at 0:51
Central Rib's Lower Crossover at 0:56
Wall Street's Step Across at 1:03
Golden Stair at 1:20
Jern Dihedral with Ken Jern climbing out of it at 1:31
Upper Friction Pitch at 1:43
V-Pitch at 1:52
West -Leaning Chimney at 2:03
Boulder Problem in the Sky at 2:07
Summit
Owen-Spalding's Belly Roll (downclimb) at 2:19



Grand's Southern Aspect

Back in 1979, the Complete Exum Ridge (Lower & Upper, 5.7) was listed as one of Steve Roper and Allen Steck's Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.


Climbers by the water hose

A small section of a garden hose allows you to collect drinking water near the SE corner of the saddle. It sits in a drainage at the toe of the Middle Teton's rocky north-facing slope. The hose is just south of a large seepage area. It's also about 50 feet southeast of the Lower Saddle's metal sign....


Rules


There's a 'rest stop' on the western aspect of the saddle that provides a non-functioning fenced toilet area which is used for privacy. It's just west of the two summer huts used by Exum Mtn Guides and the park rangers. Again, you're required to pack human waste off the saddle using wag bags. Do not piss anywhere near water sources, drainages to water sources, or near camping spots.



The Lower Saddle's rest stop "toilet"


Exum Ridge & approach from the saddle
Click to enlarge

 
The more demanding & exposed climbing for UXM climbers starts at the end of Wall Street. It starts at the Upper Saddle for OS climbers. 
 


Typical path to reach the Upper Exum Ridge
 

From the Lower Saddle, you're heading to the west side of the Needle. The Needle is a triangular feature at the very bottom of the Central Rib that looks like the tip of a needle.

 
Upper Exum Ridge
click to enlarge
 

Routes between the Lower & Upper Saddle


Once on the western side of the Needle, you'll begin the process of crossing over the ridgeline of the Central Rib and making your way to the Exum Ridge.


Western aspect of the Needle


You'll find the Chockstone Chimney at the first opening in the western aspect of the Needle. You can climb up and around the chimney to reach the Central Rib's ridgeline. Or, you can head for the Briggs' Slab and use that variation to make your way over the ridgeline to the Exum Ridge. No worries if you choose a different variation. There are many. We will look at a few.


Another look
click to enlarge

 


Many people scramble up the rock to the left of the lower chimney before reentering it above the more difficult moves. It's faster, safer, and easier for many inexperienced climbers. That also helps them avoid some rockfall hazards.


Lower section of the Chockstone Chimney


Once past the lower chimney, you'll quickly find yourself at an obvious ramp heading south and out of the chimney. Once out, make a gradual u-turn and go into a natural tunnel called The Eye of the Needle. The Eye may be plugged with snow early in the season. Sometimes there's a big snow step to help you climb over the tunnel. It's also possible to utilize many other lines of travel when conditions allow.


Variations around the Chockstone Chimney
(Red line is most common)


You're heading for the Belly-Roll Almost after leaving the tunnel. If you pass under the Belly-Roll Almost, you'll be looking for a small foothold that's hidden from view until you're on top of it. Good holds are everywhere when it's dry.


Different view


View from below the BRA

Head for the ridgeline of the Central Rib once you pass the Belly-Roll Almost or pass the Briggs' Slab.


Cross the ridge at either location


Before we cross the ridge, let's go back and look at a few variations in more detail.

If we must rope up, (with kids, whatever) we will use the Briggs' Slab. It's the easiest and safest option when using ropes.
 

Approach to the Briggs' Slab


The Briggs' Slab is at southern end of the broken headwall and next to the chimney.


Another look
click to enlarge


Variations to access Central Rib's Bench

Looking at the Briggs' Slab area from the northwest.


Briggs' Slab area

Looking at the slab from the southwest.

You might wish to try the Middle Ledge of the Chockstone Chimney if conditions are poor on the slab. It's also a good variation to bypass the lower chimney and gain the Eye of the Needle.


Climber on the Briggs' Slab.


It's quick to run a rope around a rock feature and belay clients on the Briggs' Slab.


Variations that are less common to access the Central Rib's Bench:

The Cracks of Doom and the Sack o' Potatoes are variations just north of the Briggs' Slab. They might be good options if the slab is backed up with climbers.


Variations to gain the bench
Click to enlarge


The Sack o' Potatoes chimney is unlikely to be the fastest variation but it gets used (usually with ropes). A high line from the north goes pretty quickly. You'll step over the chimney. It's an easy scramble if you have long legs. And it's good for an ascent or descent. The southern line is another option. You'll find more loose rocks. It's a little awkward.

Back to our regular route. We are headed over the Central Rib's ridgeline.

 
The Central Rib and Upper Exum's ridgeline.
Click to enlarge


These climbers are at the Upper Crossover


The Lower Crossover


Many folks climb on the outside of the Fang. There's a drop that may challenge a small child after passing the Fang; however, there are options on both sides of the drop. You can also scramble to the Upper Crossover and use it.

Variation that is usually avoided:

Just to the right of the Fang, and directly below it, is a slab system that is approached from the Eastern side of the Needle. There's also a chimney just west of the Lower Crossover that runs up the eastern side of the Needle. Easy climbing but some loose rocks. The off-route eastern variations have no real time advantage and they're not usually recommended.  They're a possible substitute if you're bored.


The slabs just below the Lower Crossover


Let's get back to our standard route options....


View from the Lower Crossover


Crossing the Wall Street Couloir can be challenging early in the summer with icy-hard snow, and sometimes the sloppy stuff.

On Sept. 11, 1985, the couloir was the site of one of the more dramatic rescues on the mountain which ended with the death of three men from hypothermia. Podcast story and AAC accident report. 

BTW: Exiting the mountain down the Wall Street Couloir isn't a shortcut to save time. It cliffs out.


  Looking back

Again, the short drop can be avoided by going to the left or right.


Another look
 

Wall Street Gully - loose rocks everywhere. This gully drains to the WS Couloir.
 

There's a black alcove to your left as you ascend the gully which would, if you climbed it, take you to a ledge on the western face from which you can gain the entrance to the Wind Tunnel. We don't recommend it. You'll probably want to avoid climbing directly under the access to the Wind Tunnel due to loose rocks if you choose to climb up the alcove. Try heading a tad bit further north at the very top and take the ledge back south. Additionally, near the beginning of the Wall Street shelf is the two pitch Flipping Tokens To Hoboken 5.12B/C climb that Brady Johnston, Greg Collins and Kent McBride put up. That also leads to the Wind Tunnel.


The Climb



Overview


Wall Street shelf


Rap to Wall Street.


This rap (maybe 60 ft) is rarely used; however, it's a good escape option. The rap starts just above the Golden Stair. There are two locations to rap from, one slightly shorter. It's not maintained and it's unlikely you'll see any evidence of it. Notice that this rap takes these climbers back to the fat part of Wall Street and not the narrow upper end.


Wall Street


Eastern end of Wall Street


At the narrow end of Wall Street, you'll work your way around a corner using one of two ledges; or, you'll step across a gap from the lower ledge.


 
Glen Exum leaped from the upper ledge across the gap on his first trip

Paul Petzoldt is the last one on the rope


 "When you get to the eastern extremity of Wall Street, why there isn’t any place to jump from! So I climbed as high as I could, until I was sort of secure, and jumped from a standing start!” Glenn Exum

Glenn didn't carefully examine all his options before jumping. That's a common mistake with many novice climbers. Glenn was truly out of his comfort zone. The summit register for his first ascent is a real zinger. Petzoldt wisely rounded the corner later that same day. Stepping across the gap from the lower ledge became a popular guided option over time. No variation gets the most attention these days. All are somewhat awkward. You can back off the lower ledge before rounding the corner if you wish to examine it first.

Glenn's first guided client was Coalter Huyler who owned the Bear Paw Ranch just south of Louis Joy's JY Ranch which was next to Phelps Lake. This was before the ranches were purchased by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. and became a part of GTNP. Coalter's son Jack Huyler wrote a few short stories about the valley's characters, including Glenn and Paul. He had a romantic affinity for the days when gated areas were occupied by cattle, not trophy wives.

 
Let's start by looking at the variations that go around the inside corner. We will look at the "Step Across" later.


 Staying upright on the upper ledge - one variation.


When we're on the upper ledge, we stand totally upright and work our way around the corner like this climber. The footholds are narrow but we trust 'em. There are no great handholds.
 
For the record, we don't remember any accidents taking place at the end of Wall Street. With icing on the upper ledge or strong winds, the lower ledge is usually the better option. Depends on your skill and gear.


Leading the upper ledge


On the move around the corner


Here is the video:



Rounding the corner on the upper ledge


Step Across - upper ledge


He takes the gloves off.....




Let's take a look at the lower ledge variation......


 Climber on the lower ledge

The ledge disappears once he rounds the corner. There are several ways to move off the lower ledge.


The lower and upper ledges


The gap that Glenn Exum jumped across

This climber is set to cross the gap instead of going around it.
 

Rounding the corner on the lower ledge


These finger holds work well to maintain movement, balance.


 Finger holds on upper ledge


Lower ledge  - rounding the corner


The climber's right foot is on a solid foothold. The handhold is the fingertip hold on the upper ledge.


View of lower ledge from upper ledge


Sticky shoes certainly make it quicker, easier and safer to move around the lower ledge. Long legs help, too. 
 
Glenn Exum had leather-cleated football shoes two sizes too big on his first ascent. In the photo, our shoes are rubber-cleated specials from Ross Dress for Less.



Another look

The ledge narrows considerably as you round the corner on the upper ledge. It's narrower than it appears in some pictures.


Limited ledge with outward bulge in rock above cleft


  Looking down from the eastern side of the "Step Across" gap


Same view with David on the lower ledge


David was in some heavy fog.


Looking down from David's position on the western side of the gap

 
In the next video, a young climber dips down off the lower ledge to round the corner. It would have been difficult for her to use the hand holds on the upper ledge. Rather quickly, she demonstrated more finesse than many adults rounding this corner. Small kids sometimes have an advantage in that their bodies better match the configuration and size of the holds; however, it still takes a good eye to move efficiently and safely like this young woman did.


Not her first rodeo 
 
When the video ends, she is at the inside corner:


  Inside corner off lower ledge


The step over the gap (the Step Across) is shown in the next video. This isn't any harder, just different. Some climbers may prefer one variation over another.


Stepping across the gap. 


Let's look at the Golden Stair (AKA Golden Staircase):


 
Soloing the Golden Staircase


The Golden Staircase has nice holds but it requires careful climbing. Some of those holds may seem rather slim. While climbing with a companion, Hannah Marshburn, age 24, of Jackson took a fall at the Golden Staircase and sustained a facial injury and possibly a head injury.

In the image above, Brody Leven is out with Robin Hill. They sailed up the GS like it was a sidewalk.


 Soloing the face


BTW: It's Golden Stair, not 'staircase' if you go by the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range"; however, there are often many different names for the same features on this mountain. Old-timers used different names and spellings so feel confident that your name works just fine. We have no idea why the Climber's Guide used 'stair' but the authors had a habit of changing some names around. A case could be made that it has one big step or stair. Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney used 'Golden Staircase' in their guidebooks and it's common to hear that name. They made it into the Wyoming Outdoor Hall of Fame in 2019 —  JHN&G story. Update: Renny Jackson offered up both names in the 2023 edition of his guidebook.


Typical line on the GS


Variations that are not usually taken but might be worth a try....


The cracks variation


This is just around the corner from the base of the Golden Staircase. Maybe it's a little harder. If so, not by much with sticky shoes. If you go even further to the NE, you'll find even more cracks/slabs/etc to play with. They may be easier, or not, for you. They're shown below...


Another variation further NW - grippy


Climbers coming off the Petzoldt Ridge sometimes use this area to access the Exum Ridge. Maybe 5.6ish climbing for them to get here. Most join the Exum Ridge by the Wind Tunnel.

Speaking of the Petzoldt Ridge, Jane Constantino and Ralph Hill were climbing the Petzoldt when a large thunderstorm rolled into the mountain from the west. Just after noon, they got zapped by ground currents and suffered burns everywhere they were in contact with the rock. The current rendered them helpless for about an hour.


Let's get back to our standard route options....


A little step problem just above the Golden Stair


These guys are at one of the locations where you can set a rap back to Wall Street.

There's an option of going around the exposed western aspect of this step instead of going over it. It's pretty funky and we're never sure the rock is going to hold which adds to the fun of going that way.


Looking back


It's mostly a scramble to the Wind Tunnel from above here. Climbers will scramble up a gentle slope, climb a short section of rock, and then scramble down the eastern side.


The scramble to the Wind Tunnel....


Off Route Variation:
 
There's an exposed variation to reach the Wind Tunnel's entrance on the western aspect of the ridgeline...


Western variation


Back to the standard route on the eastern side of the ridge:


Approach from the eastern side of the ridge

The gully at the bottom-right side of photo drains toward the Petzoldt Ridge.


You're heading for a large detached flake


Access the Wind Tunnel


Looking back


Looking ahead


Wind Tunnel's chockstones & boulders


The last big chockstone


Climbing directly into the left side of the white chockstone is a greater challenge but certainly worth trying. Most people go right (like the climber above) and then step into the channel on the left side.

We will point out that no one was spotting this lead climber. If you're in a group, it's usually wise—and a common courtesy—to spot climbers when it's easy to do so. This certainly isn't a difficult move for the lead, but bad things sometimes happen when people think bad things won't happen. Be careful where you're spotting.....

On July 27, 2014, Brett Verhoef was in the Wind Tunnel when he pulled on a loose boulder which caused him to fall backwards as the 800 pound boulder impacted his foot causing soft-tissue damage, two puncture wounds, and significant bone bruising.


Another look



The climbers shown here are bypassing the chockstone mentioned above by climbing along the eastern wall of the Wind Tunnel Gully.



Wind Tunnel Gully above the chockstone problems


Ascend the drainage and climb out of the Wind Tunnel Gully to an open ledgy area. It's where the gully ends and the ridgeline rises out of it. From there you can assess various options. 
 
Most climbers simply head for the right-facing Jern Dihedral near the very top-center of the above image to gain the Friction Pitch. We will look at several variations first.


Exum Ridge

 
 
 Carman's Pinnacle


Carman's is a detour. Carman's Pinnacle has had several names but Carman's has stuck. That name comes from Dave Carman or his brother. Dave was an Exum Guide and happened to help build the JHMR Via Ferrata climbing area. In 2024, it would set you back $495 for "the first 2 people" to climb, unless it was a full day which ran $775 for the first 2 people (guided trip). The unguided public one in Telluride is free, fyi.
 

Top of Carman's Pinnacle 5.5 to 5.6 in some guidebooks



Overview


A look at your options


These days, the Western Chimney variation is less popular than the Jern Dihedral. Both take you to a ledge at the base of the Fiction Pitch. The Western Chimney used to be the most common route. We're not sure what line Exum used on his first ascent.

If you're going for the Jern, how you get there is up to you. Some climbers start from the Western Chimney, some start by the eastern side of the ridge, some take a more direct line. Climbers (as seen above) often start near the center-right side of the ridge because it's where many of them come out of the Wind Tunnel Gully. Our most common ascent starts up the eastern crest past a nice hand jam. Shortly above there, we move toward the Jern.

The Double Cracks along the eastern crest is another variation to reach the Friction Pitch. It's close in difficulty to the Jern but different. Climbers can also move atop the Jern's western crestline (5.4ish) instead of entering the dihedral. Both options are good ways to bypass slow-moving climbers in the Jern. Many novice climbers (or older/younger/weaker climber) need extra time to figure out all the moves/holds in the Jern.

You can also bypass this entire area by using the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney. It's mostly a scramble on the easiest line with a few simple climbing moves. That variation allows you to skip the the Jern & Friction Pitch. The more challenging Puff-n-Grunt also bypasses both.
 
Let's take a quick look at the less common options before looking at the Jern. We'll start by looking at the Puff-n-Grunt
 

 The PNG. Most of it's very easy climbing


We figure that the large Puff-n-Grunt dihedral is 5.6ish at one short crux. In the book "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range", the authors call it a "difficult (5.6 to 5.7) corner". We say 5.6ish because it doesn't feel as difficult as it should when we're wearing very large winter-insulated hunting boots. Ratings are pretty subjective and yours may vary. 

You can start the PNG and exit to the base of the Friction Pitch shortly after the passing the crux. Some solid but smallish holds take you across the PNG's left wall on an horizontal traverse to the base of the Friction Pitch. That traverse may make a novice uncomfortable.


PNG's crux.

You can bypass the crux by going around its right side for a much easier line of attack. Or go left and enjoy it. That is the only cruxy part of the PNG (old trip report on the PNG).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Enough of the Puffy route. Here's the Western Chimney.


The Western Chimney


Western Chimney


The Western Chimney's rating varies with the exit location.
 
Climbing the entire Western Chimney is an uncommon line and a challenging variation. It exits at the top of the Friction Pitch. That exit is a little funky. It's not for beginners. You need to get past a very large overhanging chockstone and much of the rock is crappy by the overhang. We keep waiting for that chockstone to shed off the mountain like the one that used to be in the Stettner Couloir.

The most common exit from the Western Chimney is to the base of the Friction Pitch. That exit is by a very old cam stuck in a crack. The cam might get removed at some point but it has been there for years.

This exit is right before a big down-step in the chimney.....

 

 
 


Climb the short wall out of the chimney. You'll land on a ledge that runs along the base of the Friction Pitch. The chimney is a fairly quick ascent. The exit is the only thing that might slow you down.

You can also exit the chimney before reaching the jammed cam via some awkward steppy holds on the eastern wall of the chimney.


 Another overview of variations around the Friction Pitch
Click to enlarge


Let's look at the easier Friction-Pitch Bypass before looking at the Jern & Friction Pitch.  


Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney on right (PNG at far left)


Access the Friction-Pitch Bypass Chimney from the top of the Wind Tunnel. Scramble east into the big chute. The Notch Gully at the top of the chimney drains into here.

While the FP Bypass Chimney is the easier than taking the Jern & Friction Pitch when dry, there are some loose rocks in the chimney which require your attention. The loose rocks in the chimney are mostly by your feet. They're a real safety hazard. There are plenty of solid handholds. Also, the bypass may not be a good travel line early in the season when there's a mix of ice and snow.

The fastest exit line out the bypass isn't obvious as you near the top. Follow the easiest path up the chimney until things get harder. At that point, your best options are moving left or right. 
 
The exit to your left (west) involves moving into a smaller parallel chimney. It's above you and slightly hidden. There's a small ledge system that gets you to the parallel chimney. You can also climb a more direct line to the parallel chimney and skip the ledge. You need to be there.
 
The exit to your right (east) is along an elevated path against the wall. We wait until the very last opportunity for a move onto the elevated eastern side of the chimney. Conditions may force you to choose one side or another to exit the chimney. The better climbing is to the west in our opinion.
 
If you're up here often then it's good to climb the bypass at some point. You'll learn a possible retreat path in case of an emergency - either up or down. Or a safer variation if 60 mph winds are crossing the Friction Pitch. By the way, from this location, many people exit further up the mountain in case of an emergency and do not retreat back down the ridge.

By using variations like the Friction Pitch Bypass Chimney you can lower the rating of the Exum to something more in line with the Owen-Spalding route but it's still more demanding in terms of skill and commitment.
 
Let's finally look at the most common route up the ridge. The Jern Dihedral to the Friction Pitch.


Climber just below the Jern Dihedral

 
Climber on the Jern


Closer look at the Jern Dihedral

Many climbers use protection on the Lower Exum Ridge and then free-solo the upper ridge. This young woman is soloing past other climbers who are waiting on their lead to set a belay. The climbers below us (using the green rope) were using an approach from the Western Chimney area.


Soloing the Jern



The Jern Dihedral is named after climbing guide Ken Jern. He slipped on ice and fell 50 feet down its face. You can watch Ken point out the location in the soloing video we highlighted above. The moniker for the Jern Dihedral used to be the "double cracks" as two cracks run along its western wall. There's a long history of features in the Tetons taking on the names of people who have a special relationship with said feature, and sometimes that involves an accident or death. The Double Cracks along the eastern crest are a different line to reach the Friction Pitch....


Nearing the top of the Jern


This photo was taken from the western crest of the Jern Dihedral.


Jern Dihedral on left, Friction Pitch on right

The three climbers in the Jern are soloing. The cracks along the eastern crestline and just below the Friction Pitch are shown below...


 The Double Cracks on the eastern crest
Sticky shoes are helpful


Let's look at the Friction Pitch..


The Friction Pitch starts by the lowest climber


The photographer is on the Double Cracks line. The Puff-n-Grunt is to the right of the ridge crest. The crux of the Friction Pitch is very short, just a couple moves. The climber in the red shirt is approaching it.


Climber at crux of the Friction Pitch


This climber is moving right off the top knob (by bottom foot). Some move left. Both are common. Neither better. When you're on the rock, your perspective is different. The footholds seem less secure. The depressions smaller. The angle steeper. Death closer.
 
"A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" and both of Richard Rossiter books, "Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs in Grand Teton National Park", and "Best Climbs Grand Teton National Park", suggest going up from the knobs and "right to a shallow grove and upward to the top of the slab." In the book "Teton Rock Climbs" by Aaron Gams, he suggests that going left off the knob is the better option. Climbers are all over the place on the friction zone so don't feel tied to any one line. With sticky shoes all lines are pretty similar.

If you're standing on the top knob with an outstretched arm in front of you, you may find a nice fingertip hold between 10 and 2 o'clock. That hold will help you move into the 'shallow grove' if you move right. There's also a nice fingertip hold at arm's length to the left at 9 o'clock — more likely to be used by climbers left of the Knob Line but sometimes used by climbers moving left. You might be able to palm the edge of the Vaginal Line (discussed below) if you move left.





The above climber uses the two knobs as handholds and only the bottom knob as a foothold. He stays closer to the Vaginal Line to his left. Many climbers use the upper knob as a foothold to get a little higher on the slope before they commit to the friction section.


The two knobs

 
Just to the left of the lower knob is a thin landing strip that is sometimes used as a foothold. Notice that the slope of the rock changes just above the knobs.

Usually, the real crux of the Friction Pitch is in your mind if you have sticky rubber underfoot. And, for the record, people have climbed the ridge in trail running shoes, work boots, bare feet, and whatever old-timers used in the 1930s. Of course, if it's icy, it's just dangerous. Wet rock isn't much better.
 
The Friction Pitch is often rated as a 5.5 pitch. Some rate it at 5.4. If you're the guy slipping down the rock in the next video, you may have a very different opinion. You wouldn't be alone. The climber's bible upped the class rating for the Friction Pitch to 5.6 in the 2023 edition. Maybe it's Renny Jackson's old age and everything seems harder. Maybe it's us and everything seems easier. We don't know.



This climber slips three times on the Friction Pitch (37 seconds)


The gentleman who slips is at a more difficult location (slightly harder without grippy shoes), and he's at a more dangerous location (edge of the crest). It's unclear how sticky his soles are. He moves away from the crest and ends up by the knobs. He had no further problems off the Knob Line.


Soloing the knob line


We usually go left from the upper knob and don't even think about where we're planting our left foot. We may use the fingertip holds to maintain balance. That helps if the wind's blowing.

On June 25, James McDonald, Larry Susanka and Dan Sola were climbing the Exum Ridge in icy conditions during a storm. Sola fell while leading the Friction Pitch with crampons on icy rock. He was blown over backwards by a gust of wind. But, that's not the best part of the story. The park's medical PA, Lanny Johnson, talked them through a dislocated shoulder reduction and they self-rescued.

On July 26, 2003, at 3:35pm, lightning struck the ridge and fatally injured Erica Summers (27) while climbing the Friction Pitch. One of her partners, Rod Liberal, was having trouble with the now wet, smooth rock. He was about halfway up when the lightning struck and blew him off the ridge, swinging him about 30 feet. He survived.

Around 11:30 on August 5, 1999, Ranger Janet Wilts and Chris Goodhue were struck by lightning at the top of the Friction Pitch. Wilts reported that the lightning entered her right elbow, traveled down her arm, and exited her right thumb and forefinger, with accompanying numbness, tingling, and weakness. Goodhue reported that the lightning entered her buttocks, traveled down her right leg, and exited her middle toe, leaving a small exit wound, with accompanying numbness, tingling, and weakness.
 

Let's take a quick look at the Vaginal Line.


Western side of Friction Pitch

 
The area west of the Vaginal Line provides good rock for climbing but it's rarely used. The obvious crack runs to a fatter crack that's just out of view. This lower crack/face is not for the beginner climber.


Vaginal Line (center-left)


Inside the Vaginal Line


Just a different line. Plenty of small depressions. We once got a boot stuck in the vaginal line and had fun popping it out. Classic mistake. The knob line might be the best line if you are using mountaineering boots.


The Vaginal line is a little funky but it's grippy


Some climbers will move rightward onto a small foothold instead of traveling through the slot.


The next few pics were taken from just above the cruxy part of the Friction Pitch.....


Climbers at the ledge between the Jern & the Friction Pitch


At this point, the photographer is on a small ledge just above the cruxy part of the Friction Pitch. There's an old piton just to the west of the photographer that some will clip into ... test it if you use it.


Hmmm


Soloing through the friction zone - Knob Line


Finding a fingertip hold (right hand) at the friction zone. Vaginal line is just to his left.


Soloing off the knob line


Small ledge above crux


A look back down the FP and Wind Tunnel


The climber exiting the Western Chimney took the variation just to the south of the Western Chimney's jammed cam.

If you need to bail from the bottom of the Friction Pitch — perhaps those 60mph winds kick up —  you might try heading for the eastern side of the ridge to access the Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral. As mentioned previously, there are small but good holds leading to the inside corner of the Puff-N-Grunt above its crux. Those holds may appear too modest for a novice; however, if you can gain the PNG, you'll find easy climbing with plenty of places to set pro if you're using it. Of course, you could try using the western chimney to retreat from the Friction Pitch if you're soloing. Both options require a competent  soloing climber.


Friction Pitch - past the friction zone. Puff-n-Grunt Dihedral on left.

 
Friction Pitch - approaching the top


The Notch Gully is above, & east of, the Friction Pitch


Climb the western ridgeline above the Friction Pitch or run up the gully - both easy. The ridgeline is a great option with sketchy snow in the gully.


Notch Gully - looking back down

As previously mentioned, the gully drains into the Friction-Pitch Bypass chimney.


View toward the V-Pitch from the Notch Gully.


The common line out of the Notch Gully is an easy scramble up some rock to the northeast (see picture).

Off Route Variation and Escape Option: 
 
Another variation leaves the notch and climbs the exposed face below an escape ledge. Test your holds! Regain the ridgeline at the south end of the ledge if you go that way. That exposed variation is a fun climb on blocky rocks but it's probably not for beginners. It's not hard, it's just more dangerous. Loose rocks on the face and ledge could dislodge due to rope drag so some climbers may wish to avoid it. Stick to the most common exit if you're looking for the safest line. The safer line will also get you to the escape ledge if you actually need to escape the ridge.

All of the escape options above here take you to the Owen-Spalding Route. 


Escape options


Keep in mind that chimneys are not safe places to be during a lightning storm. Neither are ridges. Lightning can energize the entire ridge and energize a channel of water. Additionally, heavy rain can send debris down any drainage.


The escape ledge below the V-Pitch


The escape ledge to the Owen-Spalding route is easy 4th and low 5th class scrambling over many loose rocks. If it's critical to save a few extra minutes, the escape ledge just above the Notch Gully might be a good option. Not sure we would use it with lightning in the air: might get blown off with a strike. Of course, there are no really good options with lightning.


Zoomed in look at the V-Pitch from the Notch Gully


Overview - just above the Notch Gully

The access to the escape ledge will be fairly obvious when you come to it if you're looking for it. It's not obvious if you don't know about it. Black-colored rock litters the ground at the southern end of the ledge where it meets the ridgeline.

Another Off Route Variation:


Escape Ledges


If you're really bored with all the 5.5 climbing, head for the escape ledge just above the Notch Gully and find the 5.7 chimney with a chockstone. It takes you to another ledge higher up that runs back toward the ridgeline to gain the V-Pitch. This is the top of the 5.8 West Face of the Exum Ridge climbing route which Bob Merriam and Dick Pownall put up in 1954. A 5.8 move is above the 5.7 chimney on that route if you climb the face. 
 
Bob Merriam was another victim of a lightning strike on this mountain while guiding a mom and her teenage daughter up the Grand. He was on the mountain's upper horizontal ridgeline. It knocked him unconscious to the horror of his clients.

Back to the standard route....


Approach to the V-Pitch and Bypass Crack


The approach to the V-Pitch was the location of one of the more perplexing free-soloing accidents in recent history. On August 8, 2014, 60-year-old Steve Markusen's last memory was "of climbing the easy slabs to the exposed so-named “V Pitch,” at 10:00 a.m.". He was found by other climbers standing on his feet and wobbling with three broken ribs, a punctured lung, a lacerated spleen, and lacerations that ultimately required 42 stitches and staples. It's not known what caused the accident.

Steve might have been hit by falling rock but the odds seem low given the area. Ice seems unlikely. The easiest lines are not difficult to climb (mostly scrambling). Perhaps he choose a challenging line and slipped. Those lines are usually easy to spot if he wanted to avoid them. It's a mystery. This was Steve's 3rd time up the ridge solo and he was an experienced climber. He first climbed the Grand with his dad Dave Markusen in 1969. As they say, anything can happen anytime, anywhere. 54-year-old Conrad Anker had a heart attack while climbing at 20,000 feet.


Closer look


The crack variation is easier than the V-Pitch when dry. It's part crack, chute, slab. Variations further east of the bypass crack are mostly used to go under the eastern aspect of the ridgeline and are considered off-route variations. Not really harder, just different.
 


Easy V-Pitch bypass crack


View to the SW


The climbers are approaching the V-Pitch. We are below the eastern aspect of the summit ridgeline climbing slabs. We are off route. 


The V-Pitch - center right

The snow in June can be sketchy on this face. It depends upon the weather, time of day, etc.
 

Climber in bypass crack



Soloing the V-Pitch


Unsoeld's Lieback

 
Unsoeld's Lieback runs along the eastern crest of the V-Pitch (sticky shoes helpful). The bypass crack and the V-Pitch might be covered in snow (or filled w/ ice) during the start of the summer season. The lieback is usually the first thing to burn off.


Another look


V-Pitch



Take time to enjoy the views

 
The western aspect above the V-Pitch
 
  
The yellow route is another escape route off the Exum Ridge. There are times when five minutes can be the difference between life and death on this mountain especially with incoming weather. The ability to quickly escape the upper mountain is an asset for soloing parties who can do so safely. It's not just the threat of thunderstorms, sometimes it's falling temperatures and a wet mountain. Quite suddenly, ice can be everywhere with an incoming cold front, or after the sun sets.


West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney is a little tricky. It's a short combo of features: slabs, cracks, depressions, knobs, and monkey-bar holds. One might use lieback, friction, and stemming moves to get up it. Plenty of awkward holds if slick. This area does stay shaded for much of the morning so icing is more common here than on the sunny parts of the ridge. Getting up the West-Leaning Chimney with a large backpack limits climbing maneuvers and makes your life a living hell in a tight space if it's really icy, especially sans crampons.

Variations usually avoided by climbers: 

On the far right side of the photo is an option to access the ridgeline for stronger climbers. There's an old rap station a short distance above the prow.

The friction slabs that dip down and around the prow to the eastern side of summit ridgeline are sketchier than they look. Climbers have taken slips there. And falls on the eastern variation...
 
Russ Soderlund was above the V-Pitch when he decided to go down the 5.4 friction slabs to the eastern side of the ridge. After passing the slabs, he slipped while navigating the eastern aspect and fell into the Ford Couloir, stopping at a point about 60 meters above the Petzoldt Ridge where he was found dead.


Back to the regular route...


West-Leaning Chimney


Better than ice but still awkward in the with snow & a pack


Exiting the West-Leaning Chimney


The West-Leaning Chimney has many many names: Petzoldt's Lieback, Black Alcove, West-Leaning Crack, etc. The Jackson Hole Mountain Guides like to call it The Dark Side.


West-Leaning Chimney


An oddball collection of handholds are to her right, some deep inside the void. It's a little puzzle when dry or wet.

If this area is totally iced up, climbers can always scramble down the broad western escape ledge to reach Sargent's Chimney on the Owen-Spalding route. Takes just a minute or so. That option adds a little extra time to reach the summit but not too much for a soloing climber. The Owen-Spalding might be in far worse shape than the Exum if you find ice here. Not always.


Climbers heading for the ridgeline after leaving the WLC

After getting above the West-Leaning Chimney, climbers are usually heading east toward the ridgeline which will take them to the Boulder Problem in the Sky. 


L-Shaped Rock feature northeast of the West-Leaning Chimney


Instead of heading directly for the ridgeline after exiting the West-Leaning Chimney, you can also head for the L-Shaped Rock. This area has been called the V-slot. The Boulder Problem in the Sky's southern jam crack is on the ridgeline directly above the L-Shaped Rock. It's the crux of the BPITS.
 
A gully on the north side of the L-Shaped Rock is sometimes used as a bypass to avoid the Boulder Problem in the Sky. You'll scramble down to the gully and find a place to safely cross the gully. The bypass is a little awkward. The BPITS is quicker for us.


Exiting the bypass under the Boulder Problem in the Sky.


This bypass can be really slow going with icy conditions. This area is shaded for much of the day.


Looking toward the BPITS from the L-Shaped Rock

Just head for the ridgeline.


Another look 

The BPITS's bypass is not highlighted



 Vanessa on her way to the BPITS.


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack


 The short face with the crack faces southeast and it has exposure to the southeast.


Many ways to ascend.


Take your time and examine all your options. The climber using the hold along the upper edge of the boulder is making the easiest start to the ascent. If you're tall enough to reach the edge, it's helpful. This climber then turned to the left and started "walking" up the rock by the crack. He switched to different handholds once the holds along the upper edge disappeared.

There's no way this is a 5.6 climb in our mind. But, Renny Jackson has it at 5.6 in his big bad guidebook as of 2023. Of course, it might feel like a 5.10 for a 6-year-old. Everyone's different. And certainly, a novice may find more challenging than expected.


David at the Boulder Problem in the Sky's Southern Jam Crack 
 
 

Alex and Gage


At some point before the 2022 climbing season, The Boulder Problem In The Sky shed some rock features along the ridgeline once past the southern crack. We wouldn't be surprised if more rockfall occurs here. A very unstable rock is highlighted in the above picture. It could be a serious hazard to climbers if it fell westward during the summer months. It might also get stuck in the bypass gully and do no harm.

This dip may challenge a small child but there's another line of attack to the east (left side of image) that will work for a small child on a short rope.


Looking back at climbers exiting the BPITS

You might see climbers to the northwest while approaching and leaving the BPITS. They're most likely on the Owen-Spalding Route.

Exum Mountain Guides had a group of high school students on the ridgeline when a blast of white lightning shot through their air. They hightailed it for the Owen rappel. It's a hard decision to bail when you're this close to the summit but they made the right call. Sometimes clouds pass by with a whisper of cool air and nothing else. Other times, they catch you off guard with a bolt out of the blue.
 

 The summit ridgeline


Run along the ridgeline and go under the eastern aspect of the Horse to gain the summit. When dry, this may be the easiest path for kids. Or, cross over to the Owen-Spalding route in front of the Horse (go left) and approach the summit from the western side. That might be quicker if it's dry. You can also climb the Horse (start on the SW side by a detached rock) but few climbers do. Many are mentally or physically exhausted and just want to reach the summit ASAP. 

The next picture shows a common path to the summit under the eastern aspect of the Horse......

Eastern Aspect Summit Ridgeline

Scramble to the summit and enjoy the views.

Western Aspect Summit Ridgeline

The Owen-Spalding (purple route) is highlighted to the bottom of Sargent's Chimney. Green lines are OS variations. Gold lines are possible travel lines for Upper Exum climbers and one highlights an escape to Sargent's Chimney. The "Crux BPITS" text is highlighting the location of the Boulder Problem in the Sky's jam crack.


Rescue off the Exum Ridge
 

FYI: Bailing via the Ford, Chevy & Stettner Couloir can be a gamble and it's not recommended. Most narrow couloirs should be avoided during bad weather due to runoff, and they should be avoided when high temperatures may cause flushing. Flushing can include rocks, snow, ice, and water. Some couloirs can hold ice and snow all year long. It can be very difficult to avoid hazards from above such as avalanches or rockfall.

The Ford Couloir is named after 25-year-old Fred Ford who lost his life in the couloir after being struck by two large blocks of ice and a rock. Ford was struck in the head by the ice and struck on an arm by the rock. What followed after that resulted in his death.


Summit

Every so often, someone will be eschewing clothes on the summit. Well-known locals and out-of-townees have snapped birthday-suit photos and posted them on social media. It's not exactly normalized but don't be surprised if you're up here often. 
 
The Grand has been skied in the same manner. Couples have been married and gotten engaged on the summit. Look closely and you may find a lost engagement ring. No doubt someone has made whoopee on the summit. There's probably a record for the most attempts. It's Jackson Hole.

Glenn Exum is credited with taking the first pictures of two people on the summit sans clothes.


Looking South


Looking NW into Cascade Canyon


Jackson & Jenny Lake, Teewinot etc


Jackson Lake at upper right


South



Pano




Second Tower along East Ridge


The Second Tower lost a large part of its summit spire in 2022.


Another look from the summit



~ The Downclimb ~ 


Descending the entire Owen-Spalding route back to the Upper Saddle is the backup plan for roped parties when they can't use the rappel (compromised rope, lost gear, too many people waiting in bad weather — has happened). It can be downclimbed with a pretty short rope if you need protection and you still have some rope.


See our Owen-Spalding Climbing Route page if needed


The Owen-Spalding Route
Click to enlarge


Owen-Spalding Overview


Most roped parties will use a dynamic 60m rope thrown south from the Main Rappel's Sling. The longest drop is stamped "40m" from the bolted chain. The rap off the sling is shorter. The landing zone slopes downhill so the distance to the Upper Saddle varies from different setups.



The Main Rap area AKA Owen Rappel



NW & West Aspect - Click to enlarge


Overview of the Grand Teton's western aspect


Ridgeline seen from southeast





Ridgeline seen from SW

Click to enlarge images


1947 Silent Film of Glen Exum, Paul Petzoldt, and Virginia Garner on the Upper Exum


Virginia's husband, Raymond C. Garner shot the movie which stands out as an impressive effort for a non-commercial climbing film. The original 16 mm version of The Mountain is in the National Archives.
 
According to the Academic Film Archive of North America, Ray Garner began his photographic career in 1935, filming Boy Scouts (or assistant scout masters) on a climbing expedition in the Tetons, calling the film "The Mountaineers Club Teton Expedition". Unfortunately, that film has been lost. Ray wasn't just a filmmaker who dabbled in climbing. He was an outstanding climber for his time. He also guided with the Petzoldt-Exum guide service. Two years after making this film, in 1949, Dick Pownall, Ray Garner and Art Gilkey made the first ascent of the iconic IV 5.8 North Face of the Grand Teton, which soon became one of the "50 Classic Climbs of North America" (perhaps less 'classic' today).
 
Ray was also a member of the American Alpine Club, leading climbs in North America, Europe, and Africa. Ray and Virginia (sometimes Jinny or Ginny) were blazing an unusual path through life. Evidence of their adventures shows up in unexpected places. The Virginia Park in Canyonlands National Park was named for Virginia. She was made an honorary Tuskegee airman after being taught to fly by members of the famed African-American combat unit. Virginia's diary of her time working on the Africa Motion Picture Project was turned into a book called Images Out Of Africa. And the Central Arizona Mountain Rescue SAR team traces its beginnings back to the 1940s when Ray and Virginia were climbing in the southwest.

One of the best parts of the above film is watching the three climbers slide and run down the snow fields at the end. Their summit register includes Howard Friedman, a former member of the renowned 10th Mountain Division and a photographer for Life Magazine and Sports Illustrated. Howard was also on the first ascent of the very popular North Ridge Italian Cracks variation. He spent many years climbing in the Tetons. We're guessing that Howard helped Ray with the filming. While climbing, Paul, Glenn and Virginia look like your typical slightly-out-of-their-element guided climbers that one sees every summer in the Tetons. At one point, Virginia takes what looks like a staged slip over rock as the film cuts to a calm Glenn Exum.
 
 
Raymond C. Garner
 
 
Back in 1931, Paul Petzoldt led a group on the Upper Exum while newly-minted Grand Teton National Park ranger George L. Waters III filmed their climb. You can watch the short, grainy 1931 Grand Teton climbing video on Forrest McCarthy's YouTube channel. Alpinist magazine covered the video's backstory.


All of our route images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit purposes. 



Enjoy Safe Climbing