The Owen-Spalding Climb
~ Lower Saddle to Summit ~
This is the quickest, safest, and easiest climb on the Grand Teton when the route is dry and the weather is perfect. Under those conditions it's a suitable objective for many athletes who wish to climb this mountain without a rope in a single day. Previous climbing experience is not a prerequisite but it isn't for everybody. It demands agility, finesse and vigilance.
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers believe that "climbers should not attempt a one-day ascent of the Grand Teton without prior experience on this LARGE mountain and familiarity with technical ascents in the Teton Range" and they warn that "soloists have been injured or killed attempting these routes."
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The second party to summit the Grand Teton (2nd verified party) had no knowledge of the area, no similar climbing experience, and no gear. They free-soloed the Owen-Spalding route in a single day back when there was no climbers' trail, no guidebook, and no internet. Quin Blackburn, Dave DeLap, and Andy DePirro did that in 1923. It stands to reason that more than a few people can follow in their footsteps with the resources available today. Indeed, many do. As Renny Jackson says in his Guide to the Teton Range, soloing in a day is "commonplace during the summer when the route is dry." And as to the first one-day ascent, he says it "was in the finest of traditions: a small, light expedition that shunned all notoriety."
While you don't need to be an "accomplished athlete" to climb the Grand Teton, it helps. You'll struggle to some degree if you're lacking aerobic fitness, muscle endurance, agility, coordination, strength, flexibility and/or balance. Having said that, this mountain has been climbed by blind people, 6-year-olds, 80-year-olds, people missing an arm or leg, an adult with Down syndrome, and out-of-shape flatlanders with no climbing experience whatsoever. Most are guided by friends or the park's climbing concessionaires. And most of the referenced people should never free solo or try a round-trip in a single day.
Free-soloing this route under mixed conditions is not recommended. The difficulty & danger increases as does the time needed to get up and down the mountain. Of course, a little bit of snow, ice, or wet rock is pretty common. Some climbers can recognize and manage those hazards. Taking on the additional challenge to free-solo under passable mixed conditions is a decision best left for yourself. Professional guides have misjudged hazards and died on this mountain so don't make the decision lightly.
It's impossible for us to know how easy the climb will be for you, how well you will manage the hazards or how elastic your comfort zone will be. And nothing we say can convey the experience quite like being there in person. If you're looking for bubble-wrapped adventures, visit Six Flags Magic Mountain.
Free-soloing this route under mixed conditions is not recommended. The difficulty & danger increases as does the time needed to get up and down the mountain. Of course, a little bit of snow, ice, or wet rock is pretty common. Some climbers can recognize and manage those hazards. Taking on the additional challenge to free-solo under passable mixed conditions is a decision best left for yourself. Professional guides have misjudged hazards and died on this mountain so don't make the decision lightly.
It's impossible for us to know how easy the climb will be for you, how well you will manage the hazards or how elastic your comfort zone will be. And nothing we say can convey the experience quite like being there in person. If you're looking for bubble-wrapped adventures, visit Six Flags Magic Mountain.
click to enlarge
There's less than 300 feet of climbing that might test
your natural abilities. Some of that climbing goes by a
large drop-off. It causes more than a few people to reconsider their plans. The Owen-Spalding is a Class 5.4 climb on the YDS scale of difficulty when dry, "suitable for beginners."
For the record, people often shorten the name of the Owen-Spalding route to the "OS", saying the "O" "S" route when speaking.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Safest Time For Free-Soloing
The
best days for free-soloing usually arrive between
mid-July and mid-to-late August. The exact dates vary from year to year and no date is guaranteed nice conditions or weather.
The best time to leave the trailhead for a single-day round-trip depends upon many factors. The majority get an early start to avoid the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms. Soloing parties who are moving quickly might leave the trailhead at daybreak, or later. Many can reach the summit in under 4 hours so they have greater flexibility in their schedule. Climbers making it a one-day trip using protection often leave the trailhead between midnight and 2 a.m. Many guided groups start their climb from the 11,600 ft Lower Saddle between 3 and 4 a.m.
The best time to leave the trailhead for a single-day round-trip depends upon many factors. The majority get an early start to avoid the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms. Soloing parties who are moving quickly might leave the trailhead at daybreak, or later. Many can reach the summit in under 4 hours so they have greater flexibility in their schedule. Climbers making it a one-day trip using protection often leave the trailhead between midnight and 2 a.m. Many guided groups start their climb from the 11,600 ft Lower Saddle between 3 and 4 a.m.
Current Conditions
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers are using Instagram to post updates on conditions. Besides the Jenny Lake Ranger Station, local sources for beta might be found at the AAC's Climbers' Ranch in GTNP, the Teton Mountaineering store, the Lupine Meadows trailhead, Teton County's climbing gym, or the local Black Diamond store which is sometimes staffed by local climbers. The Teton Climbers’ Coalition runs the Jackson Hole Town Pump. You might find beta there, or meet climbing partners. Before social media took off, we posted weekly
updates about conditions to our Wyoming Whiskey Home Page. There's less of a need these days.
Or call the Ranger Station: 307-739-3343
Keep in mind that precipitation can be highly localized in the Tetons. Rainfall on the Grand Teton might bypass a weather station collecting rainfall data. And just because no precipitation falls on the mountain doesn't mean icy conditions haven't hit the mountain. All you need is cold moist air. Hoar frost occurs when water vapor directly crystalizes on surfaces (deposition). Rime ice can be created when a cloud of supercooled water droplets are freezing on contact with a sub-freezing surface. Supercooled water droplets can be found in many stratus and cumulus clouds. Runoff from heavy rain may be active for several days after precipitation falls. It can turn to ice during that extended time period if temperatures fall.
Shoulder Season Conditions
Conditions in June are always mixed. New ice is being created and old ice is being exposed with June's freeze and thaw cycles. And rockfall is more common with those cycles. The snow may resemble a 7-Eleven Slurpee once the sun cooks it. Conditions can vary greatly with the elevation, shadiness, temps and aspect. The steeper sections of the upper mountain often clean up before the approach. Crampons and an ice axe are often used in June. It helps to have experience with those tools before using them in high-consequence locations. At times, June's conditions can be more hazardous than April's. As we leave June and enter July, conditions vary from year to year but odds favor encounters with snow on the approach & climb. Quite often, icy snow lingers well into July on the Owen-Spalding route.
June is one of the more scenic times to climb. The national park is fully leafed out below 8500' by the second week of June, or earlier. The impressive arrowleaf balsamroot sunflowers reach a peak in June and fade in July. They're quickly followed by other wildflowers which come and go throughout the season. The quality and timing of the show depends upon the weather.
Conditions in September aren't as predictable as June's. The odds increasingly favor mixed conditions with each passing week but every year is different. If precipitation falls, it often falls as snow or graupel
at upper elevations. Ice and snow may appear on the approach. Every once in a while we have above-average temperatures and passable conditions for numerous fast & light round-trips in September and/or October. In September of 2024, the climbing rangers predicted that "north and west facing routes will likely be in winter conditions for the rest of the year" but by mid-October, you could easily make the summit without ever touching snow, ice or wet rock on the west-facing Owen-Spalding route, and even the northern routes were in better shape than many climbers would find in early July. The last day for warmish weather and passable conditions for soloing in a timely fashion was Oct 27 in 2024, when we had a high temperature record of 65°F.
Some climbers only care about conditions so as to bring the
appropriate gear. This mountain gets
climbed year-round. Even soloed year-round. For many, the best days in the mountains are the ones with challenging conditions.
To see a variety of backcountry hazards play out, watch this classic
ski-mountaineering video with Steve Shea which took place in Garnet Canyon starting
in June of '78 over the course of six weeks; and apparently, an additional
four weeks in ’79 according to
a story in Adventure Journal...(link has been killed or moved but we keep it).
Fall Line from Bob Carmichael
Bob Carmichael
provides insight into the making of Fall Line on
his
Vimeo channel. His account differs slightly from the one in Adventure Journal.
His field crew included
Larry Bruce,
Greg Lowe,
Steve Shea, and
David Breashears who passed away in 2024. He says they camped at the Lower Saddle for 7 weeks while
making the movie.
Bill Briggs ran supplies to the saddle. After Briggs, Shea was the second person to ski the
Grand.
Larry Bruce and Steve Shea were living in Aspen, CO, in 1978, as
were many mountaineers like
Michael Kennedy
and
ski-mountaineering legend Lou Dawson. In the 70's and early 80's, Aspen was a nice place for a
lowlife skier or mountaineer. Larry, now in his 70s, wrote a thin guide to rock climbing in Aspen, had a habit of soloing 5.10s, and was married to the American rock climber
Molly Higgins
who, with
Barb Eastman, made the first all-woman ascent up The Nose on El Capitan in 1977. Barb
started working as a Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger in 1980, along
with
Anne Macquarie just a few years after the first female rangers were hired in the park: Anne-Marie Rizzi in 1977 and Jean Ruwitch Dempsey in 1978.
There's a fine low-budget movie called “Teton Skiing – Legends of the Fall Line” if you're interested in learning more about the history of
Teton skiing. Both Fall Lines get covered in
Lou Dawson's review of the movie on his wildsnow blog
(read the comments). UPDATE: it seems the comments have been removed.
Weather
Lower Saddle Weather Station
Direction from
~ SUMMER ONLY ~
- usually mid-June to mid-Sept -
@ 11,600'
Temperatures
~ SUMMER ONLY ~
- usually mid-June to mid-Sept -
When MesoWest does server maintenance, we are unable to pull up weather graphics. At that time you can check the National Weather Service's Teton Saddle weather page if it's up and running. Or look for other stations on the NWS weather station map or the Synoptic weather station map.
@11,600'
Wind Speed,
Gust &Direction from
~ SUMMER ONLY ~
- usually mid-June to mid-Sept -
You can compare the saddle's forecast with actual temperatures at the saddle's weather station. Getting a feel for forecast errors helps with decision making. Forecast wind speeds are often off by a factor of 2 or more at the saddle due to the saddle's topography not being factored into a forecast. Forecast temperatures in the hourly forecast can easily be off by 10°F at any specific time.
LOWER SADDLE
*** NWS Multi-day Lower Saddle Forecast 11,600'
*** NWS Hourly Lower Saddle Forecast 11,600'
NWS Forecast Discussion Western WY
NWS Forecast Discussion Eastern ID
Lower Saddle Weather Station 11,600'
NWS Lower Saddle data
(Summer Only)
JXN/GTNP
A
summer forecast is good for about 6 hours. Even within 6 hours, it's often of questionable value for the Tetons with any instability in the atmosphere. When it comes to precipitation, no one can tell you with certainty what's going to happen within a ten mile radius of the Grand Teton unless there's a big, stable, high-pressure system parked over the region and we're in its center. Or there's a massive storm system slamming the Northern Rockies. Dig a little deeper into a forecast and be prepared
to read the weather as you travel. You might want to reconsider your plans if the forecast discussion mentions monsoon moisture, low pressure or a cold front hitting the range.
Let's look at a quote from an AAC accident report:
Let's look at a quote from an AAC accident report:
"Lightning storms are common in the Teton Range in the summer. Although most storms occur in the afternoon or evening and follow a distinct progression, storms at other times of the day or night are not rare and are often missed by professional weather forecasters."
We will add that any type of storm at any time of day is easily missed by forecasters in the Tetons. Additionally, it's often the case that unstable weather in a forecast never materializes and it's a great day for climbing.
Keep in mind that forecast temperatures are temperatures expected in the shade. And temperature readings from a weather station are supposed to be shaded temperature readings.
Shaded Blue = Summit Freezing Zone
Emergency Information
(307) 739-3301 - Teton Interagency Dispatch Center
911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID
911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID
GTNP's Dispatch Center is open 24 hours a day during the summer season (usually June 1 - Sept 30). For time-critical, life-threatening emergencies, you might be better off calling the park's dispatch center instead of contacting 911 for emergency service in the park. You can't text GTNP's dispatch center (not on the public line, there's a private line) so text 911 if you need to send a text message for emergency services.
Once the summer season dies down, the park's dispatch center is usually open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call them if you need to confirm operating hours. Teton County Search & Rescue seems to handle the majority of winter rescues so calling 911 is probably best at that time of year.
911 calls & text messages go to the Teton County Sheriff's Office. Calls to the Sheriff's Office get transferred to GTNP if the emergency is within park boundaries during the summer. 911 calls within sight of Idaho might get sent to Teton County, Idaho. They can also receive text messages.
Sometimes a text message will get through to emergency services when a voice call will not. Texting 911 is also advised if your phone's battery has been severely drained. Text messages do not include location coordinates like emergency voice calls so be sure to include location information in any messages (detailed place name or GPS coordinates).
The Teton County Backcountry SOS App will drop a GPS location into an emergency text message if your phone's GPS is on.
Information needed by the rescue team includes
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any).
1) the exact location of the injured party
2) the time of the accident
3) the nature and extent of injuries & medical care being provided
4) equipment at the scene (ropes, hardware, first-aid kit, etc.)
5) the number of people with the injured party
6) the plan of action (if any).
Summer Camping
Summer backcountry camping permits can be reserved online
starting in January. First-come,
first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer and they're usually in high demand. Backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up in person at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. The ranger station is open 8am to 5pm daily from early June to early September. Garnet
Canyon has special regulations for backcountry campers.
Our Jackson Hole Camping Guide covers some additional camping options if you're unable to secure camping in the park. Other websites and apps are probably better suited to informing climbers about every camping site in the USA and they're regularly updated unlike ours. The National Elk Refuge & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center is also a good resource for visitors who are in town. The Forest Service has an office about a block or so south of the visitor center.
Our Jackson Hole Camping Guide covers some additional camping options if you're unable to secure camping in the park. Other websites and apps are probably better suited to informing climbers about every camping site in the USA and they're regularly updated unlike ours. The National Elk Refuge & Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center is also a good resource for visitors who are in town. The Forest Service has an office about a block or so south of the visitor center.
Additional Details
No one knows how long it'll take you to complete a round-trip on the Grand Teton. The fastest round-trip time is under 3 hours. It might take you 24 hours. The round-trip covers around 16 miles with a 7000 foot elevation gain. The exact mileage is still debated. GPS tracks from runners often peg the distance closer to 14 miles round-trip.
We will briefly cover the approach to the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle on this page. If you need more information, click the link. To be honest, many people making their first ascent just follow other climbers from the trailhead. The number of people heading off in wrong directions is amazingly high given all the resources available so at least look at a map.
Water
Water is found at many places along the trail. About 5.25 miles in, the climbers' trail crosses the
source of spring water feeding Spalding Falls. We always make sure to have enough water to get there. We don't drink the creek's water below the
falls during the summer unless its been filtered. Too many people and critters use the landscape as a toilet so our faith in the water's purity is diminished. If you need potable water before leaving the trailhead, you can stop by the South Jenny Lake Store and use their free outdoor water filling station.
Split Times
Assuming you're trying to go fast & light, and can, these are common split times from the Lupine Meadows trailhead if you're
walking quickly (not running) to the Lower Saddle:
First Junction: 30 minutes, 1.7 miles
Second Junction: 30 minutes, 1 hr total, 3 miles
Meadows Camping Zone: 30 minutes, 1.5 hrs total
Lower Saddle: 60 minutes, 2.5 hrs total, 3mph if 7.5 miles*
(*distance is disputed: 2.6 mph if 1 mile less)
Lower Saddle: 60 minutes, 2.5 hrs total, 3mph if 7.5 miles*
(*distance is disputed: 2.6 mph if 1 mile less)
The average person can take many hours to reach the Lower Saddle from
the trailhead. Most people are not free-soloing, not on a fast & light round-trip, and unable to sustain a fast pace.
The fastest runners reach the Grand's summit in under 2 hours. Local athletes regularly reach the summit in under 3.5 hours. In 2017, Ryan Burke, 35, made three 6-hour round-trips of the Grand Teton back-to-back. He actually completed the three summits in 17 hours, 54 minutes. Some settle for two. Meredith Edwards made two back-to-back round-trips up the Grand in about 16 hours just before Ryan's threesome. Plenty of professional mountain runners could easily beat Ryan's time but only Ryan will actually do three round-trips. A handful of people who do record-breaking FKTs, or stunts, in the Tetons will share GPS tracks as proof of their elapsed time. You can find some tracks posted on the Strava website and other portals that support sharing GPS tracks.
To get a feel for the time it might take you to reach the summit, or do a round-trip, let's look art some numbers for local hill climbs. If you can top out on Snow King Mountain's Exhibition ski run in under 23 minutes then a sub-5-hour round-trip is looking possible. That's 68.3 vertical-ft/min over 0.3 miles. It's easier to sustain that pace up Snow King than all the way to the Grand's summit. A better test might be out at Teton Village. If you can reach the summit above the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's tram in under 90 minutes (with or without shortcuts) then you shouldn't have a problem nailing a 6 hour round-trip like Ryan while taking a more moderate pace. That's 46 vertical-feet/min over the 4,139 ft elevation gain. A runner who competed in JHMR's Hillclimb in 2023, hit 71 vertical-feet/min, taking under 60 minutes to finish the 6.2 mile uphill race course. If you're doing that, you'll be closer to a 3-hour-round-trip on the Grand assuming you can scramble and climb with speed.
The fastest runners reach the Grand's summit in under 2 hours. Local athletes regularly reach the summit in under 3.5 hours. In 2017, Ryan Burke, 35, made three 6-hour round-trips of the Grand Teton back-to-back. He actually completed the three summits in 17 hours, 54 minutes. Some settle for two. Meredith Edwards made two back-to-back round-trips up the Grand in about 16 hours just before Ryan's threesome. Plenty of professional mountain runners could easily beat Ryan's time but only Ryan will actually do three round-trips. A handful of people who do record-breaking FKTs, or stunts, in the Tetons will share GPS tracks as proof of their elapsed time. You can find some tracks posted on the Strava website and other portals that support sharing GPS tracks.
To get a feel for the time it might take you to reach the summit, or do a round-trip, let's look art some numbers for local hill climbs. If you can top out on Snow King Mountain's Exhibition ski run in under 23 minutes then a sub-5-hour round-trip is looking possible. That's 68.3 vertical-ft/min over 0.3 miles. It's easier to sustain that pace up Snow King than all the way to the Grand's summit. A better test might be out at Teton Village. If you can reach the summit above the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort's tram in under 90 minutes (with or without shortcuts) then you shouldn't have a problem nailing a 6 hour round-trip like Ryan while taking a more moderate pace. That's 46 vertical-feet/min over the 4,139 ft elevation gain. A runner who competed in JHMR's Hillclimb in 2023, hit 71 vertical-feet/min, taking under 60 minutes to finish the 6.2 mile uphill race course. If you're doing that, you'll be closer to a 3-hour-round-trip on the Grand assuming you can scramble and climb with speed.
A few FKT runners prefer to travel when stable snow covers parts of the approach. The ones listed as the fastest had mostly dry conditions.
The Fastest Three Runners
Kilian Jornet, 2h54m01s, August 12, 2012
(flagged)
~ Trailhead to Summit and back ~
Fastest Women
Emelie Forsberg, 3h51m, August 11, 2012
(flagged)
(flagged)
Jen Day Denton, 4h15m27s, July 9, 2022
Jack Kuenzle of Roxbury, Connecticut ran a pretty fast time of 3:02:32 on August 16, 2023. His GPS data is on the Strava website. His round-trip was estimated to be 13.8 miles by his watch. He
took a couple shortcuts by Spalding Falls according to his GPS track. Kilian's GPS data used to be on Suunto's "Movescount" website before the website was discontinued. It might be on their app. He took many shortcuts. Stephen Mulherin had a nice fast time of 3:00:34, in 2015. No GPS data. Stephen's records for the JHMR's Hillclimb and the Targhee Hill Climb were pretty impressive.
After Sunseri illegally poached the old climber's trail that Bryce Thatcher used on his FKT back when that was the official climber's trail, most of the older FKT's became flagged. Kilian's record and two of the woman's records became invalid in the eyes of the FKT website owners (Outside’s parent company Outside Interactive), possibly after the National Park Service threatened legal action against Sunseri and talked with the website staff. The shortcut is marked with signs ("closed" sign at bottom, "short cutting causes erosion" at top). Flagged or not, these round-trips are very impressive athletic accomplishments.
Stephen Mulherin 3:00:34, 2015
Rickey Gates, 3:19, 2012
Tony Krupicka, 3:23, 2012
Bryce Thatcher, 3:06, August 26, 1983
Eric Carter, ~3:30, August 15, 2016
Gardner Heaton, 3:36 mid-90's
Luke Nelson, 3:33
Creighton King, 3:30:39, 1983
Jock Glidden, 4:11, 1973
John Holyoke & Joe Hawkes, 5:21, 1939
Rickey Gates, 3:19, 2012
Tony Krupicka, 3:23, 2012
Bryce Thatcher, 3:06, August 26, 1983
Eric Carter, ~3:30, August 15, 2016
Gardner Heaton, 3:36 mid-90's
Luke Nelson, 3:33
Creighton King, 3:30:39, 1983
Jock Glidden, 4:11, 1973
John Holyoke & Joe Hawkes, 5:21, 1939
For historical reference, Holyoke & Hawkes started from the "Trail in Flats" which Renny Jackson's guidebook says it was the Lupine Meadows trailhead. The Bonney guidebook says they started at Jenny Lake. Hawkes is credited with the old round-trip record at 5:21 or 5:22 depending upon the source. Construction on the climbers trial beyond the 4.1 mile mark to the Lower Saddle didn't happen until 1977, so H&H were probably rock hopping past the original trail. H&H took between 3:22 and 3:32 to reach the summit. These days, a few Jackson athletes in their 60s can hit that time but they have access to a climbers' trail. Most 60-year-olds will not beat H&H's descent time. H&H took about 2 hrs for the descent. We will assume that in 1973, Glidden had access to a social trail used by climbers on his 4:11 round-trip. Glidden got to the summit in 12 minutes from the Upper Saddle. Alpinist Rolando Garibotti, who nailed the Grand Traverse speed record of 6 hours, 49 minutes until 2016, was reported to have run from the Grand's summit to the Lower Saddle in 12 minutes on the long-gone JH website Outerlocal.com. Michelino Sunseri ran from the summit to the Lower Saddle in about 17 minutes if we remember correctly.
FWIW: The Fastest Round-Trip Ski Run on the Grand Teton was captured by Jared Inouye, Jason Dorais, and Andy Dorais who came in at 5:17 on June 28, 2011, taking couloirs to the summit. Hayden Wyatt claimed the title of the youngest to climb and ski the Grand at age 14 in June 2012 with his dad, Rick.
Exum reported that Rod Newcomb at 75, celebrated his 55th year of climbing the Grand with a one day ascent on July 2nd, 2009. Rod left the Lupine Meadows parking lot at 2:30 a.m. and topped out on the Grand around 11:15 a.m. Might be record breaking for 75. According to Jack Tackle and Bill Anderson, Rod may have made over 400 trips up the Grand Teton. Several guides clock over 300 trips. In 1984, at the age of 76, Petzoldt climbed the Grand Teton to commemorate the 60th anniversary of his first ascent. No word on the time it took. We're not sure who the oldest person to solo is but a 70-year-old man from Idaho Falls gave it a shot in 2024.
FWIW: The Fastest Round-Trip Ski Run on the Grand Teton was captured by Jared Inouye, Jason Dorais, and Andy Dorais who came in at 5:17 on June 28, 2011, taking couloirs to the summit. Hayden Wyatt claimed the title of the youngest to climb and ski the Grand at age 14 in June 2012 with his dad, Rick.
Exum reported that Rod Newcomb at 75, celebrated his 55th year of climbing the Grand with a one day ascent on July 2nd, 2009. Rod left the Lupine Meadows parking lot at 2:30 a.m. and topped out on the Grand around 11:15 a.m. Might be record breaking for 75. According to Jack Tackle and Bill Anderson, Rod may have made over 400 trips up the Grand Teton. Several guides clock over 300 trips. In 1984, at the age of 76, Petzoldt climbed the Grand Teton to commemorate the 60th anniversary of his first ascent. No word on the time it took. We're not sure who the oldest person to solo is but a 70-year-old man from Idaho Falls gave it a shot in 2024.
Supplies
Make sure you have the supplies necessary for a safe trip before venturing to the trailhead. Headlamp with fresh batteries? Water? Toiletries? Proper clothing, especially shoes? Food? Sunglasses? Sunscreen? Charged phone? First Aid? Helmet? Gloves? Hiking poles? Mosquito spray? Whatever. Fast and light is the objective for most free-soloing climbers so every additional ounce is a burden if it's not essential. Free-soloing runners (the select few) carry next to nothing and
wear clothing totally unsuitable for most climbers. Runners might also
start later and experience very comfortable temperatures.
Protect your eyes and skin from the damage of high-elevation sun exposure. The sun's intensity increases at a rate of 4-10 percent per 1000'
feet above sea level. The intensity varies with the time of day, snow
cover, cloud cover, your location on the Earth, etc. The reflective
intensity of the snow is a real threat. Take the sun's threat seriously. Too many people travel without sunglasses and sunblock in the mountains.
~ Altitude Sickness ~
The body needs time to adjust to higher elevations. The reduced air
pressure at 13,775 ft. (4200 m) means that there are 42% fewer
oxygen molecules in every breath compared to the same volume of air
that's found at sea level. Additionally, there are 9%
fewer oxygen molecules in your blood supply while resting which means that the
blood is less efficient at circulating oxygen to the brain and other
organs. The oxygen level in the blood decreases further when any
strenuous activity is undertaken.
Altitude sickness has stopped climbers from ascending the Grand Teton. While rare in the Tetons, it can become a serious health issue. On September 16, 2001, a climber on the Grand's East Ridge was taken to St. John's Hospital in Jackson and treated for high altitude pulmonary edema. It was reported that the climber was unable to stand or walk and that he had gurgling in his chest. Climbers suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness or Altitude Sickness need to stop, rest, and descend if serious symptoms don't improve.
Altitude sickness has stopped climbers from ascending the Grand Teton. While rare in the Tetons, it can become a serious health issue. On September 16, 2001, a climber on the Grand's East Ridge was taken to St. John's Hospital in Jackson and treated for high altitude pulmonary edema. It was reported that the climber was unable to stand or walk and that he had gurgling in his chest. Climbers suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness or Altitude Sickness need to stop, rest, and descend if serious symptoms don't improve.
Diamox, AKA: acetazolamide, is sometimes used to prevent or reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness.
You'll need a prescription. The CDC mentions Viagra (Sildenafil)
as a possible way to prevent high-altitude pulmonary edema. It also recommends that pregnant women avoid vigorous
activity at high altitudes unless properly trained and accustomed to the
environment. Pregnant women are seen climbing the Grand. Consult with a doctor if you're prego.
The Approach
All Garnet Canyon Data from GAIA GPS
(best viewed on a desktop/laptop computer)
This GPS data has the distance to the Lower Saddle at under 6.5 miles. The 2023 guidebook reported two distances. One said it was 7.5 miles to the saddle. The other distance appeared on a map and it seemed to imply that the distance was less than 6.5 miles. If someone is moving quickly, smart phones and watches may not capture the actual distance very well. They miss many small twists and turns in the trail and the accuracy varies. Outside's website said it was a 13.1-mile round-trip for Michelino Sunseri. But, Kelly Halpin's GPS had it at 14.8 mi on her 3 hour, 40 minute round-trip. She didn't take shortcuts and she moved at a slower pace so her distance is probably more accurate. The GPS below had the round-trip distance at 16.2 miles.
This old Garmin GPS was on the top of a backpack to maximize satellite sight lines. The Owen-Spalding round-trip took 13.5 hours with 8.5 hours spent moving, and 5 hours stopped. 16.2 miles was the round-trip distance using the summer climber's trail from Lupine Meadows. Take all the numbers with a grain of salt.
Approach and camping locations above 9000 feet
You might want a camping permit if you have issues with your knees, can't sustain a long day in the mountains or you need to acclimate to the elevation.
The dry summer trail to the Lower Saddle is mostly well defined and easy to navigate. It does disappear for over 200 feet at two locations. They're commonly referred to as the 1st & 2nd Boulder Field, AKA: Platforms Boulder Field & Morainal Boulder Field where the trail disappears. Almost the entirety of Garnet Canyon is a giant boulder & talus field but some areas are more bouldery than others.
The trail disappears in an insignificant way for a short distance in several locations between the 1st Boulder Field and the Meadows Camping Zone. Usually, the trail continues just in front of you. Take the path of least resistance. You're always on the north side of the creek to the top of Spalding Falls. And you're close to the creek.
You may see a few side trails above and below the top of Spalding Falls. Some spurs go to camping spots. Some are shortcuts. Some go to climbing areas. Others are used to avoid early-season snow. The Park Service would like everyone to stay on well-traveled paths whenever possible, or stay on rocky surfaces and not vegetation if you must go off-trail.
Traveling under darkness might be a slightly bigger challenge. People do lose the summer trail so it's not a foolproof approach under darkness. And people do get off trail during daylight hours but it's less common. Be wary of letting partners run ahead or lag behind (or separate). Every year this doesn't work out well for one or more of the party members.
Traveling under darkness might be a slightly bigger challenge. People do lose the summer trail so it's not a foolproof approach under darkness. And people do get off trail during daylight hours but it's less common. Be wary of letting partners run ahead or lag behind (or separate). Every year this doesn't work out well for one or more of the party members.
Click to Enlarge
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Meadows Headwall
Climbers use a bootpack to gain the top of the Lower Saddle as we enter the summer season, and sometimes well into the summer season. You can bootpack directly up the headwall or go across its face. The snow's conditions determine the safest and quickest way to travel.
The dry summer trail takes you to a rope that's permanently affixed to the saddle's headwall. The rope drapes over a drainage. It's pretty handy when everything is slick. Scrambling up the headwall without using the rope is common but guides belay clients at the fixed rope. Usually, the fixed rope starts seeing action around mid-July. As always, just depends on the weather. In 2011, it was the 2nd week of August.
About 50 feet southeast of this sign is the saddle's water source.
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When winter snow covers
the canyon's floor, climbers typically ascend the Meadows Headwall closer to the Middle Teton's NE aspect. They usually avoid the summer trail by Spalding Falls.
Snow and ice are the most common variables in backcountry rescues and deaths in Grand Teton National Park. Know how to travel over snow. Do not underestimate the threats be it on the approach or a climb. During the spring and winter, avalanche hazards must be mitigated. Avalanches have taken place on the Lower Saddle's headwall in early November.
Snow and ice are the most common variables in backcountry rescues and deaths in Grand Teton National Park. Know how to travel over snow. Do not underestimate the threats be it on the approach or a climb. During the spring and winter, avalanche hazards must be mitigated. Avalanches have taken place on the Lower Saddle's headwall in early November.
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Parts of the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle can be seen from a few areas as you approach the Meadows Camping Zone but the Lower Saddle mostly hides behind the Meadows Headwall.
Lower Saddle Headwall - June
Climbers use a bootpack to gain the top of the Lower Saddle as we enter the summer season, and sometimes well into the summer season. You can bootpack directly up the headwall or go across its face. The snow's conditions determine the safest and quickest way to travel.
The dry summer trail takes you to a rope that's permanently affixed to the saddle's headwall. The rope drapes over a drainage. It's pretty handy when everything is slick. Scrambling up the headwall without using the rope is common but guides belay clients at the fixed rope. Usually, the fixed rope starts seeing action around mid-July. As always, just depends on the weather. In 2011, it was the 2nd week of August.
If you struggle in any way with the climbing at the fixed rope then free-soloing is not for you. You can contact the Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers to find out if the approach is free of snow or if the fixed rope is being used.
Upon leaving the fixed rope, climbers follow a path toward the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle. They travel to the toe of the Middle Teton as it sits on the saddle and end up by the most southeastern camping site.
Lower Saddle's Fixed Rope
This is a rockfall zone. Stay alert. Never travel directly above the Fixed Rope to the west or northwest during the summer due to the high probability of causing rockfall on climbers below you. In some locations the rock is too unstable to remain in place no matter how carefully you move. Small landslides have taken place by the fixed rope and natural rockfall has injured climbers at the headwall.
Upon leaving the fixed rope, climbers follow a path toward the southeast corner of the Lower Saddle. They travel to the toe of the Middle Teton as it sits on the saddle and end up by the most southeastern camping site.
The Lower Saddle Sign
About 50 feet southeast of this sign is the saddle's water source.
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Location of the water hose
That water source is at the toe of the Middle Teton's rocky slope. You'll find a section of garden hose in a shallow drainage. Just to the north of the hose is a large seepage area. In the above photo, the hose is by the climber in the red shirt.
People drink this water unfiltered (and untreated) all the time; however, some people will filter or treat it. There's no guarantee it's always safe to drink. And the hose may become contaminated by unwashed hands. At times, it can need filtering for particulates but it's usually fine. BTW: Symptoms of giardiasis normally begin 1 to 2 weeks after becoming infected. It won't happen quickly. Dehydration can happen quickly. And too much water can throw your electrolytes off balance.
It's possible for the saddle's water source to dry up. Usually in September. It can spring back to life with the changing weather. It might also be buried under snow but still flowing. You can get water from the Middle Teton Glacier if water disappears at the saddle. Make sure you have enough water for the trip to the summit. Rainstorms and lingering snow will put water in the drainages between the Grand's lower & upper saddle. There's always snow, ice and water somewhere on the mountain but it may not be close by or easy to access.
If you need to piss in the wind, please do so well away from water sources and camping spots. The rest stop on the western side of the saddle is for privacy. It's not a functioning toilet. You're required to pack out human waste from the saddle using WAG bags, etc. If you ran out of WAG bags, the rangers might have an extra supply in their hut for emergencies. The rangers aren't always at the saddle.
There's also a gear hanger on the western side of the saddle should you wish to drop some weight. A bear box is available to store food from critters like marmots and pikas. In addition to them, you might see chipmunks, ravens or an invasion of butterflies. It's rare to see bears, foxes, bighorn sheep and mountain goats at the saddle but they have made visits (mountain goats are considered non-native and the park has culled them).
Two huts are assembled at the saddle every season. One hut is utilized by backcountry rangers as mentioned earlier. The other hut is used by Exum Mountain Guides. A third hut—used by the JH Mountain Guides—sits above the trail to the Morainal Camping Zone. Look toward the east face of the Grand Teton by Teepe Pillar to see that hut.
Most people get cellular service at the saddle & above it. It's a good place to check the forecast. Saddle temperatures
can stay in the 50's on the warmest summer nights. On the coldest summer
nights, temperatures dip below freezing and it can snow at the saddle. It has a well-earned reputation
for strong winds. On a clear, dark night, the sky is spectacular.
There are small rock shelters on the western aspect of the saddle including one next to the rest stop. Most are north of it. Those shallow caves are attractive places to seek shelter during a storm but they might increase your chances of getting zapped by lightning. We don't remember anyone being injured by lightning at the saddle but that doesn't mean it hasn't happened.
The Owen-Spalding Climb
Click to Enlarge
Keep in mind that conditions may force you to alter your line of travel into more difficult (or, by comparison, safer/easier) terrain.
You're headed for the Central Rib's Needle which is on the north side of the saddle. The Idaho Express and the Wall Street Couloir are not suggested routes to reach the Upper Saddle.
The scrambling begins once you reach the
Black Dike. You may see hiking poles by the dike, the fixed rope, or
elsewhere around the Lower Saddle. Leave all hiking poles where you find
them. They're not abandoned, just set aside temporarily. The dike is
made of black diabase which formed from molten material. It's the same type of dike as seen on the Middle Teton and Mt Moran.
Just a quick safety note to non-climbers:
The man directly below the photographer is on the lower ledge that
takes you out of the Chockstone Chimney and to the Eye of the Needle. Notice the loose rocks. It's one reason to avoid climbing directly up the lower chimney if climbers are above you. The Briggs'
Slab is just to the right of the photographer and unseen.
On August 31, 2003, two climbers got stuck on the mountain for three days during a snowstorm. On their third day, climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs after taking a fall while descending the Chockstone Chimney.
Upper Chimney
(red line is most common route)
If you go under the Belly-Roll Almost, you'll be looking for a small foothold that's out of view until you're directly above that foothold. There are excellent handholds.
The upper chimney
Everyone scrambles at a different pace over different types of terrain so it's hard to say what line is fastest for any one person. And too many variations are available especially when you add snow lines in the mix. Runners usually train on several lines before trying an FKT.
Area by Mini Black Dike
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Looking back
Let's take a moment to look at some less common variations that are near the Briggs' Slab.
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SOP and COD
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The high line over the SOP chimney
The area between the Lower (11,600ft) & Upper Saddles (13,200)
The main drainage sees weekly rockfall events caused by other climbers. Bowling alley is the favored description. Most climbers stay out of the drainages whenever possible. Crossing them is common. Having said that, mountaineering runners trying to nail down a personal best time or Fastest Known Time will sometimes run up sections of a dry drainage.
Bootpacks up drainages are useful when encountering stable snow; however, the drainages are one of the most common locations for serious snow-travel accidents due to the steepness, small cliff bands and rock outcroppings.
Don't let down your guard on the scrambles. On August 9th, 2005, a 47-year-old local woman climbing with Exum Mtn Guides tumbled about 15
to 20 feet while descending by the Needle and sustained injuries to her
knee and ankle. These types of accidents are pretty common and they often go unreported.
Bootpacks up drainages are useful when encountering stable snow; however, the drainages are one of the most common locations for serious snow-travel accidents due to the steepness, small cliff bands and rock outcroppings.
Just a quick safety note to non-climbers:
If
you're unfamiliar with climbing etiquette, the appropriate thing to do
if you kick rocks down the mountain, or see rocks falling down the mountain, is to holler 'ROCK'! even if you see
none below you. It's like saying FORE!
when you make an errant golf shot. Your safety and the safety of others
is everyone's responsibility when it comes to falling rock. It takes mental & physical effort to be safe on this mountain and ensure the safety of others.
Back to our climb...
As you move past the western aspect of the Central Rib's Needle, you'll come across the Chockstone Chimney on your right. It's the first opening along the Needle's western aspect. It allows us to access the Central Rib's Bench. The bench usually provides a safer line of travel to the Upper Saddle.
Many variations to gain the Central Rib's Bench
click to enlarge
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This is the Central Rib's "bench" we are trying to access
click to enlarge
The two most common variations to access the
Central Rib's Bench are:
1) the Eye of the Needle via the Chockstone Chimney variation
2) the Briggs' Slab variation.
The Briggs' Slab is a common
guided variation. The slab is easy to get to and it's easy for guides to
quickly belay clients across the slab. Guides will utilize other
variations when the need arises. You can reach the slab from the chimney but most climbers take an easier, safer and longer approach to reach the Briggs' Slab. The Middle Ledge variation is a good alternative to both the slab and the lower chimney.
If you're an experienced mountaineer, you can reach the Upper Saddle
without getting into the fine details shared below.
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Let's look at the two most common options in greater detail, starting with the chimney...
Western side of the Needle by the Chockstone Chimney
The
guided climbers in the above image are descending from the Briggs' Slab and
about to pass the Chockstone Chimney. They're staying on a slightly elevated path above the actual
drainage. Staying just above the drainage sometimes provides an extra measure of safety. The clients are less likely to kick loose rocks down the slope, or slip on them, or be hit by them.
Anyone can follow the guides. It's everyone's mountain. They're not in charge of other climbers. People head off in questionable directions all the time and they may end up in locations that are ill-suited for safe and/or efficient travel so don't just follow any climber.
Anyone can follow the guides. It's everyone's mountain. They're not in charge of other climbers. People head off in questionable directions all the time and they may end up in locations that are ill-suited for safe and/or efficient travel so don't just follow any climber.
Take the Chockstone Chimney or go for the Briggs' Slab
Scrambling up the ledge/step/slab system just to the left of the chimney is common. Most reenter the chimney just above the lowest chockstones. That's often safer and faster. Choose any line that looks good for you. The
chances of rockfall from those above you is something to consider in the chimney. We avoid going straight up the chimney with weaker climbers or young kids. If these options look unappealing, just head for the Briggs' Slab. Or use the Middle Ledge variation which starts just below the Briggs' Slab (discussed later).
Let's look in the chimney...
A few variations near the bottom half
Many people who take the "Narrow Ledge" variation end up climbing an easy southeast corner inside the chimney. Others climb to the slab on the chimney's northern side.
Mid chimney
On August 31, 2003, two climbers got stuck on the mountain for three days during a snowstorm. On their third day, climber Joe Hestick broke his hip and several ribs after taking a fall while descending the Chockstone Chimney.
(red line is most common route)
The Eye of the Needle's tunnel is a tight fit if you have a big backpack. Once out of the Eye of the Needle, climbers traverse under or over the Belly-Roll Almost. Both variations work fine.
On Aug 10, 1994, Chris Schneider fell down the Chockstone Chimney from the Eye of the Needle area and sustained serious injuries to his head and back.
Climbers going over the Belly-Roll Almost.
On Aug 10, 1994, Chris Schneider fell down the Chockstone Chimney from the Eye of the Needle area and sustained serious injuries to his head and back.
If you go under the Belly-Roll Almost, you'll be looking for a small foothold that's out of view until you're directly above that foothold. There are excellent handholds.
While Emelie Forsberg was attempting a woman's fastest known time (FKT) on the Grand Teton, she used the Eye of the Needle variation during her descent and took the Runners' Slab near the bottom of the Chockstone Chimney. It wasn't the shortest way off the bench but she did it pretty quickly running with Kilian Jornet the day before he ran his FKT on the Grand.
Kilian also ran the Grand's round-trip with Anton Krupicka while on another training run. They did the Grand's round-trip in 3:23. FWIW: Anton took the FKT for Wyoming's highest peak, Gannett, on September 18, 2012: 8h46m32s car-to-car from Green River Lakes. His time was beaten (barely) in 2020, by Aaron Robson of Lander, WY, with a time of 8h 39m 26s.
Kilian also ran the Grand's round-trip with Anton Krupicka while on another training run. They did the Grand's round-trip in 3:23. FWIW: Anton took the FKT for Wyoming's highest peak, Gannett, on September 18, 2012: 8h46m32s car-to-car from Green River Lakes. His time was beaten (barely) in 2020, by Aaron Robson of Lander, WY, with a time of 8h 39m 26s.
Emelie & Kilian on her FKT in 2012 (Chockstone Chimney)
Everyone scrambles at a different pace over different types of terrain so it's hard to say what line is fastest for any one person. And too many variations are available especially when you add snow lines in the mix. Runners usually train on several lines before trying an FKT.
Let's look at the access to the Briggs' Slab and variations near it.
Expanded Overview - click to enlarge
The green travel line is the most common approach to the Briggs' Slab
(Click to Enlarge)
Another look
There are some shortcuts by the rockfall zone but they're usually avoided.
View from another angle
View from Briggs' Slab
The Briggs' Slab is named after Bill Briggs. Guides use a friction
belay over rock to quickly move clients over it. It's a good choice for kids when roped.
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The slab
Let's look at the area above the slab...
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The three climbers in the background are nearing the Belly-Roll Almost after leaving the Eye of the Needle. The guided climbers are descending and getting ready to be belayed over the Briggs' Slab (unseen to the right).
The drainage between the two groups is just an extension of the Chockstone Chimney. Climbers heading for the Upper Exum Ridge will follow the extension and cross over the ridgeline. Do not follow them.
You're heading north for the Upper Saddle.
The drainage between the two groups is just an extension of the Chockstone Chimney. Climbers heading for the Upper Exum Ridge will follow the extension and cross over the ridgeline. Do not follow them.
You're heading north for the Upper Saddle.
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Conditions on the Briggs' slab may force you to choose another variation. Or the slab may be busy with guided climbers. The Cracks of Doom variation is pretty easy but harder than the slab. There are several lines on the face which vary slightly in difficulty.
The Mini Black Dike runs directly to the Sack of Potatoes chimney. Climbing the chimney at the top of the dike is not the easiest line of attack but it gets the most attention. An easier option is found to the north of the Mini Black Dike along a high line. The line just south of the Mini Black Dike isn't too hard either but loose rocks are more of a hazard and it's harder to downclimb. Most people who use the SoP's chimney get delayed.
The Mini Black Dike runs directly to the Sack of Potatoes chimney. Climbing the chimney at the top of the dike is not the easiest line of attack but it gets the most attention. An easier option is found to the north of the Mini Black Dike along a high line. The line just south of the Mini Black Dike isn't too hard either but loose rocks are more of a hazard and it's harder to downclimb. Most people who use the SoP's chimney get delayed.
Now that we are on the Central Rib's Bench, let's head for the Upper Saddle.
The CR's Bench area
It's wise to choose a path that provides
some protection from rockfall. That path can change when other climbers
are above you.
It's steeper than it looks
Central Rib
Another look
You may see scrappy footpaths between here and the Upper Saddle. Some are useful, some not so much.
Central Rib Overview
Click to enlarge
Let's take a look at the Upper Western Rib variation first. We will examine the Black Rock Chimney variations afterward.
The Upper Western Rib Variation
The UWR is a natural line to follow so most climbers choose it. Same with the drainage. There are many inexperienced and tired climbers on the Grand every single day. They probably aren't thinking about your safety. Move out of any hazard zone. The drainage is a serious hazard.
It's rare to see runners going for the record books (or a personal best time) but they stand out if they're in a drainage.
There are no safe places inside the chimney when rocks are falling into it.
A snowy Owen-Spalding Couloir
Climbers have taken slides to their death due to the tricky snow conditions. On this day, pictured above, we ended up taking a line on the western aspect of the Central Rib, closer to the drainage but above it. The snow was a postholing adventure in the main drainage by the time we started descending. Fine for the ascent.
In June of 1992, H. Kammeyer (33) lost control in soft wet snow near the top of the
Owen-Spalding Couloir. He went over some rock bands and ended up on the
snow about 100 feet above the Black Dike with bilateral wrist fractures,
a right side pneumothorax, and fractures of T-8, T-12 and C4-7 vertebrae. A helmet probably saved his life.
In 1977, Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Thomas Raymer was guiding Robert Slater
down the mountain from the Upper Saddle in fresh snow when Slater's
pack caught on a rock and they both fell 200 feet. Slater suffered minor
injuries but Raymer was seriously injured and was carried out the
following day. Raymer had a broken femur & talus, and severe scalp lacerations with part of the skull exposed.
Overview of the upper Central Rib - looking SE.
The marked path is a general direction of travel in the above image.
At the top of the Central Rib is the Patio (seen above). It's a
natural flat area where guides often take a
break. The wind tends to blow and the
temps seem to drop as you gain the Upper Saddle
so it's a good place to add an extra layer and grab something to drink or eat.
The Black Rock Chimney
& Rosenberg Variation
& Rosenberg Variation
Let's go back down the Central Rib and take a look at the Black Rock Chimney area. We'll look at the Rosenberg variation first.
BRC & Rosenberg Variation (many options)
You can't miss the black-colored rock which the Rosenberg variation follows. It sticks out from the Central Rib like a sore thumb when everything's dry. You can gain the Rosenberg variation from many locations so choose any place that looks fast and easy. You're heading toward the Central Rib's ridgeline.
Scramble up the black rock toward the ridgeline and exit just south of a tower-ish rock outcropping on the ridgeline (see picture above). The Rosenberg variation tops out at the same location as the Black Rock Chimney. It's usually faster.
On September 3rd, 1964, Mrs. Rosenberg "took a fall and slid down a short, almost vertical, section of rock and across a gently sloping ledge, then down a 30 foot steep couloir onto a steep snowfield in the bottom of the main couloir and continued to fall and tumble for several hundred feet down the snowfield. The other members of the party descended to where she stopped and determined that she had been killed during the fall."
Let's look at the Black Rock Chimney variation:
The Black Rock Chimney is accessed via a short chimney next to a large slab of reddish-orange rock. The short chimney leads to a steppy
ramp that rises above the slab. The ramp ends at the bottom of the Black Rock Chimney. The chimney runs just under the
ridgeline's western crest.
The Black Rock Chimney variation was considered for removal as a guided option by Exum Mountain Guides in 2022, due to increasing hazards from loose rocks.
The Black Rock Chimney variation was considered for removal as a guided option by Exum Mountain Guides in 2022, due to increasing hazards from loose rocks.
On June 17, 2013, Grand Teton National Park rangers rescued 57-year-old climbing guide Jim Williams after the snow that he was standing on near the Black Rock Chimney collapsed and he took a short fall, catching a crampon on the ice and sustaining an injury.
Another look at access to the BRC
Again, you can access the Rosenberg from many locations. One is highlighted above.
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Bottom of the Black Rock Chimney
Once again, after leaving the Steppy Ramp you're in the chimney section that runs under the western crest of the ridgeline. This is very easy scrambling/climbing when dry.
If you're heading for the Steppy Ramp on the descent, go all the way down the BRC until the ridgeline opens up and you're suddenly on the eastern aspect of the ridgeline. The Steppy Ramp is right at that demarcation or transition point. From there, you're forced to take the eastern aspect of the ridge or the ramp to the west. Take the ramp to the west.
If you did miss the exit to the Steppy Ramp during the descent and you ended up on the eastern aspect, you would find some slow-moving climbing over some slabs and ledges compared to the ramp. You can regain the Central Rib's Bench further down the rib by using the crossovers that Upper Exum Climbers use. We don't recommend going that way but you certainly can. Might even want to.
The yellow and green arrows in the above picture are two travel options right above the ramp. For young kids, the yellow line might be easier to manage. Just depends.
Hanna, the young child in the green helmet, looked to be 6-years-old or younger and rather unhappy with the whole adventure, or too exhausted. And moving at a snail's pace. While very young kids have summited the Grand, most find feeding chipmunks more interesting, fun, and rewarding. Think twice before bringing very young children on this mountain. Same with some adults.
BRC along the western aspect of the Central Rib's ridgeline
This is where the loose rocks are. It's obvious when you're there. Watch your step no matter where you are in this chimney.
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The bowl-like opening above the BRC and Rosenberg variations- looking SSE
Do not take the bowl's drainage to the Wall Street Couloir. It's not a time-saving shortcut — it's a little funky and has no advantages for free-soloing climbers.
Let's take a closer look at the top of the Black Rock Chimney....
Top of BRC & Rosenberg
In the photo, the top of the Rosenberg is immediately to your right on a descent as you exit the bowl. The Black Rock Chimney parallels the Central Rib's ridgeline along its western aspect.
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The view near the Central Rib's Patio
The Middle Teton
There's a small, circular rock formation on the Enclosure's summit that was most likely left by Native Americans. At times, non-natives have rearranged it. It's a nice place to
watch climbers on the western aspect of the Grand Teton. The Enclosure
is the consolation prize that guides dish out when the
Owen-Spalding route is a questionable
proposition. They'll talk it up as if it's a treasure of biblical
significance to help everyone feel better about not tagging
the Grand's summit. It's an oddball scramble and it rises higher than any peak in the Teton Range other than
the Grand.
When unconsolidated snow covers foot traps (fall season,
often), the best path to the Upper Saddle can be difficult to navigate if you
don't know the area well. Take the time to check your footing. Of course, any kind of snow can cause trouble.
Late on the afternoon of June 11, 1994, Mike Tucker and Bill McDonald of Pocatello, ID, were a short distance below the Upper Saddle when McDonald slipped on moderately steep snow and began sliding. McDonald slid approximately 300 feet before going over a 150 foot cliff-band, then continued sliding another 500 feet down a couloir. He sustained massive head trauma in the fatal fall.
In August 17, 1993, Corbin Rich (17) from Idaho Falls was a short distance below the Upper Saddle when he slipped on snow, failed to self-arrest, and fell about 1,000 feet down a steep couloir containing mixed rock and snow. He died of massive head injuries.
On August 1, 1995, a 25-year-old woman from Portland, Oregon, lost her footing below the Upper saddle, slid about 60 feet, went over a low angle rocky area, and fell another 40 feet into a moat. She died from head and neck trauma suffered in the fall. See "Thursday, August 10, 1995" report in link.
Carlos Medrano was crossing a hard steep snow patch on his way to the Upper Saddle when he slipped and fell over 800 feet over snow, rock and several short cliffbands.
Late on the afternoon of June 11, 1994, Mike Tucker and Bill McDonald of Pocatello, ID, were a short distance below the Upper Saddle when McDonald slipped on moderately steep snow and began sliding. McDonald slid approximately 300 feet before going over a 150 foot cliff-band, then continued sliding another 500 feet down a couloir. He sustained massive head trauma in the fatal fall.
In August 17, 1993, Corbin Rich (17) from Idaho Falls was a short distance below the Upper Saddle when he slipped on snow, failed to self-arrest, and fell about 1,000 feet down a steep couloir containing mixed rock and snow. He died of massive head injuries.
On August 1, 1995, a 25-year-old woman from Portland, Oregon, lost her footing below the Upper saddle, slid about 60 feet, went over a low angle rocky area, and fell another 40 feet into a moat. She died from head and neck trauma suffered in the fall. See "Thursday, August 10, 1995" report in link.
Carlos Medrano was crossing a hard steep snow patch on his way to the Upper Saddle when he slipped and fell over 800 feet over snow, rock and several short cliffbands.
At
this point, you're above the Middle Teton. Enjoy the views. The Grand
Teton rises about 1000 ft higher than the 12,809' elevation of the
Middle Teton. The Upper Saddle is near 13,200 ft.
Upper Saddle - looking W & SW
Variations to access the eastern side of the Upper Saddle
Looking back down
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Another look
Variation by the southern RED variation
Loose dirt and rocks are found by the stem move. Move with great care. Mary “Mimi” Conley Bilyeu, an experienced and guided climber fell into the gully directly below the RED route. She did not survive. She most likely slipped on the loose rocks but no one really knows. She was not roped up. Almost no one ropes up here but it's wise to provide a leg up to weaker climbers, spot them, or use a rope.
On August 4, 1977, Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope striking him on the back of the head causing a small laceration, and a large bump upon the back of his head.
On July 21, 2015, Tucker Zibilich, 26, was desending from the Upper Saddle when a large boulder dislodged and rolled over his arm, causing severe injury to his limb and prompting a rescue by rangers.
The GREEN variation
The BLUE route is very useful when conditions make the other options too sketchy (unstable snow, icing, etc), or everything's backed up. It has small holds but it works fine. It might make a novice climber uncomfortable without protection or spotting.
View from above....
The southern RED line
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On this variation, there's a stem move over a chockstone that challenges many climbers. You might find a stepping stone below the chockstone to
help climbers get over the obstacle.
A rare 4th variation has you climbing along the
seam on the south-facing wall just before the stem move over the flaky chockstone. We have seen exactly one other person use it and only after we suggested it. But, it was certainly used in 1923...
Loose dirt and rocks are found by the stem move. Move with great care. Mary “Mimi” Conley Bilyeu, an experienced and guided climber fell into the gully directly below the RED route. She did not survive. She most likely slipped on the loose rocks but no one really knows. She was not roped up. Almost no one ropes up here but it's wise to provide a leg up to weaker climbers, spot them, or use a rope.
On August 4, 1977, Doug Calloway (17) was climbing the Owen Spalding Route on the Grand Teton a short distance above the Upper Saddle. A rock was dislodged by his partner’s rope striking him on the back of the head causing a small laceration, and a large bump upon the back of his head.
On July 21, 2015, Tucker Zibilich, 26, was desending from the Upper Saddle when a large boulder dislodged and rolled over his arm, causing severe injury to his limb and prompting a rescue by rangers.
The GREEN route sees plenty of descents and ascents. We find that novice climbers would rather climb up it than down it. Kids are better served by a roped ascent/descent of the GREEN line. Many feel it's the easiest ascent line. This is the fastest option. The biggest issue with this line is its exposure to the north and the awkwardness of a descent for novice climbers. Easy to hip belay if needed.
SAFETY REMINDER
Some people get summit fever when they should be bailing. Or making a temporary retreat (depending on the circumstances). If the weather, conditions or skill sets aren't in your favor, it's time to turn around. It's never the wrong call to bail even if you're wrong about the threat. This is especially true if you're responsible for the safety of others. A few groups who couldn't outrace the weather experienced life-changing injuries and death.
Test your holds to make sure they'll support your full weight. Look for slip hazards underfoot like verglas and loose rocks. After crossing snow or water, make sure your shoes' soles are dry enough for the slab you're planting your foot on. If a body position or climbing line doesn't feel right, back off and consider another plan of attack.
Take the time to be safe.
"Many of our clients are exhausted and at the limits of their abilities, and they make mistakes. What this means is that our clients are trying to kill each other, they're trying to kill themselves, and they're trying to kill you. Each of us needs to remember this at all times. That's our job." Dave Carman, Exum Mountain Guides, as told in the Outside Magazine story “The House of Rock".
If you're on a guided climb, keep in mind that every climber has a
responsibility to look after their own safety and the safety of
others not only because guides sometimes make incorrect assumptions
about everyone's safety but because that's your job.
1939 was an interesting time to be climbing. 19-year-old Margaret Smith Craighead was on the
first manless ascent of the Grand Teton
in 1939. It took them 4 hours and 30 minutes to reach the summit from
the Lower Saddle. By the age of 16 she had climbed most of the major
peaks in the Teton Range. Within a week of her manless ascent,
13-year-old
Bill Johnston
from Casper could be seen
climbing the Grand Teton. And a 17-year-old Jim Crooks, who was an occasional climbing
partner of 16-year-old
Fred Beckey,
was guiding a group of 19 people up the
Owen-Spalding route. Beckey also started climbing in the Tetons in 1939. Fred's Summit Register.
40-year-old Joe Hawkes made his 5 hour and 21 minute FKT round-trip in 1939. That was also the year that Lloyd and Mary Anderson, who founded REI in 1938, descended on the Tetons with a group of over 100 members of The Mountaineers. Their trip was documented in the above-mentioned 1939 Annual of The Mountaineer.
40-year-old Joe Hawkes made his 5 hour and 21 minute FKT round-trip in 1939. That was also the year that Lloyd and Mary Anderson, who founded REI in 1938, descended on the Tetons with a group of over 100 members of The Mountaineers. Their trip was documented in the above-mentioned 1939 Annual of The Mountaineer.
You can peruse the old
GTNP Summit Registers
on
Paul Horton's great website if you want a glimpse into the
climbing history of the Tetons.
Let's get back to our climb
From the Upper Saddle it's less than 600' to the summit. The Class 5.4 climbing is not sustained. Much of the route above the Upper Saddle is a scramble or easier climbing. The class rating won't represent the real challenge under heavy icing, especially if you're soloing, more so if soloing without crampons.
The Owen-Spalding Route
Click to Enlarge
Click to Enlarge
AVOID STANDING DIRECTLY BELOW THE RAPPEL AREA
THIS IS A ROCKFALL ZONE
THIS IS A ROCKFALL ZONE
The exposed Belly Roll is at the very NE corner of the Upper Saddle
This area can be windy, freezing, and backed up with climbers. Waiting makes the cold worse. Morning temperatures in the 30s are not uncommon around the Upper Saddle
during the summer. Sometimes 20s with a cold front. That's before wind chill is calculated. People have bailed because they didn't have gloves during the peak
summer season and the climbing rangers have rescued climbers who lost
dexterity and grip strength due to low temperatures. While it's not always freezing or clogged with climbers, you should be prepared for that possibility.
Most free-soloing climbers can safely pass other climbers by the exposure. It's good etiquette to make sure those climbers are comfortable with the idea, and that those climbers don't put your safety at risk, or vice versa.
Variation that's not for beginner climbers:
In the above photo, the Wittich Crack (video & first ascent) is rated a 5.6 (CGTTTR) to 5.7 (MP). It's not uncommon to run into slick conditions near the top of the Wittich after a cold, wet spell because it's well shaded. However, it's not part of a major drainage area like the 1st Entrance of the Double Chimney. It's a variation for stronger climbers who don't want to wait behind OS climbers. The crux is the exit from the top (climb left).
In the above photo, the Wittich Crack (video & first ascent) is rated a 5.6 (CGTTTR) to 5.7 (MP). It's not uncommon to run into slick conditions near the top of the Wittich after a cold, wet spell because it's well shaded. However, it's not part of a major drainage area like the 1st Entrance of the Double Chimney. It's a variation for stronger climbers who don't want to wait behind OS climbers. The crux is the exit from the top (climb left).
Let's get back to our standard route options....
OS's Exposure
The above video takes a look at the Owen-Spalding's exposure between the Belly Roll and the 2nd Entrance of the Double Chimney. It's redundant with multiple members of a local coed soccer team making similar moves; however, it gives you a good feel for what to expect. Many of the soccer players had no prior climbing experience.
Belly Roll - going over the detached flake
Climber from Lander, WY, riding the bottom of the Belly Roll
Belly Roll - climbers using the lower ledge
Video of two climbers going under the Belly Roll
Video of two climbers going under the Belly Roll
We are not aware of any accidents ever happening while passing the Belly Roll.
The ledge directly below the Belly Roll is tiny at its southern end. In the video above, the first climber jumps off the southern end which isn't the wisest move to emulate. Had he landed on a small patch of ice, or lost his balance, he could have sailed over the cliff. Once he let go of his handhold, only his feet were keeping him on the mountain. You can gently step off the end if you're tall. Obviously, taller climbers have greater flexibility in their choices since their reach is longer. The shorter climber climbs over the lip of the cleavage once he passes the Belly Roll's detached flake. That was a wise decision for him.
The ledge directly below the Belly Roll is tiny at its southern end. In the video above, the first climber jumps off the southern end which isn't the wisest move to emulate. Had he landed on a small patch of ice, or lost his balance, he could have sailed over the cliff. Once he let go of his handhold, only his feet were keeping him on the mountain. You can gently step off the end if you're tall. Obviously, taller climbers have greater flexibility in their choices since their reach is longer. The shorter climber climbs over the lip of the cleavage once he passes the Belly Roll's detached flake. That was a wise decision for him.
The ledge between the Belly Roll and the Crawl. Upper Saddle in background
Looking toward the Crawl from the ledge.
The Crawl with access to the Double Chimney in background - descent
Go outside, inside, or partly outside & inside the Crawl.
Glenn is below the First Entrance of the Double Chimney and he has one foot on the ledge variation used to access the 2nd Entrance of the DC.
Entering the Crawl
The Crawl - descent
The area right behind the climbers and in front of the photographer can be sketchy. Loose rocks, snow, water and ice are common at this location. Additionally, the rock face is sloping into Valhalla Canyon. Be careful as you leave the Crawl — see below....
Climber at the Crawl
This picture will give you a feel for what's underneath you if snowy conditions hide features. Unstable snow can slide off the slope and take you with it (see below, too). Stay close to the wall. FYI: There's an old piton on the wall above you as you come out of the Crawl. A few small handholds are along the wall.
A questionable 'cornice' over the exposure
You have a couple of options to choose from to gain the interior of the Double Chimney. The 1st Entrance is the crux. The 2nd Entrance is considered to be the fastest and easiest variation. And it's the most common variation taken by soloing climbers. The two entrances are about 12 to 15 feet apart.
Let's look at the variations in more detail starting with the 1st Entrance..
1st Entrance of the Double Chimney
Too many climbers were backed up at the 1st Entrance in the above image. And more were behind them. Using the 2nd Entrance would have been a better choice to speed things along. On the Owen-Spalding route it's important to keep things moving if others are behind you. This is a trade route. If a more efficient variation presents itself, please consider taking it. FYI: Roped parties with more than 3 people are not appreciated on the trade routes and they're strongly discouraged from assembling. But, there's no rule against it. And some move with speed. The rangers discourage it on their blog, and the guidebook does. Free-soloing parties usually don't care. They'll pass when it's safe to do so.
Albert Ellingwood on top
There's a variation directly above the horn at the 1st Entrance (directly above Ellingwood's right arm). It runs up a tiny chimney/drainage. It can be used to access a ledge that runs along the top of the Double Chimney's Open-V variation (discussed further below). It's a good way to bypass slow climbers if this variation is dry. It can also be used as a shortcut to access the Catwalk. It's fairly easy; however, it's usually avoided because it's a drainage for water flowing off the Catwalk. It can be dangerously wet, icy and slimy. Downclimbing that variation has exposure with holds that look questionable above a drop to your death. Non-climbers may find it intimidating even when dry.
The above guide is grabbing a horn and muscling her way over it with some stemming behind her. There's a small depression near her rear foot to use for leverage. Notice she is only wearing approach shoes. Or trail running shoes with a solid grip. This is common.
Many climbers give this entrance a rating higher than 5.4. The 2023 edition of A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range gives the Double Chimney a 5.5 rating; however, it doesn't even highlight the 1st Entrance on its marked up route image. And it keeps the overall route rating at 5.4. Go figure. Some feel the entire route only has a 5.4 rating because of the 1st Entrance. Either way, it's still a cruxy, exposed maneuver for many OS climbers. If you're more runner than climber, you might find the 1st Entrance quite challenging.
The 1st Entrance is often wet or icy. Winter snow can build up here and provide a nice step below the horn which makes this an easy option.
Many climbers give this entrance a rating higher than 5.4. The 2023 edition of A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range gives the Double Chimney a 5.5 rating; however, it doesn't even highlight the 1st Entrance on its marked up route image. And it keeps the overall route rating at 5.4. Go figure. Some feel the entire route only has a 5.4 rating because of the 1st Entrance. Either way, it's still a cruxy, exposed maneuver for many OS climbers. If you're more runner than climber, you might find the 1st Entrance quite challenging.
The 1st Entrance is often wet or icy. Winter snow can build up here and provide a nice step below the horn which makes this an easy option.
1st Entrance seen from above
Too many climbers were backed up at the 1st Entrance in the above image. And more were behind them. Using the 2nd Entrance would have been a better choice to speed things along. On the Owen-Spalding route it's important to keep things moving if others are behind you. This is a trade route. If a more efficient variation presents itself, please consider taking it. FYI: Roped parties with more than 3 people are not appreciated on the trade routes and they're strongly discouraged from assembling. But, there's no rule against it. And some move with speed. The rangers discourage it on their blog, and the guidebook does. Free-soloing parties usually don't care. They'll pass when it's safe to do so.
Downclimbing the 1st Entrance isn't common but it's a good option under some circumstances. Goes quicker if you're tall and you can lower yourself off the horn.
Albert Ellingwood is atop of the Austrian mountaineer
Hermann Buhl. They're at the 1st Entrance of Double Chimney. The American mountaineer
Carl Blaurock
took the photo in
1924. Carl was the first person to summit all fourteeners in the
contiguous United States. Ellingwood made his first climb of the route a year earlier with the first woman to summit the Grand Teton, Eleanor Davis. Eleanor and Albert were the 3rd party to officially summit. They were actually on the 4th ascent up the Grand because members of the Owen party climbed twice in 1898 (minus Owen on the second trip). This shoulder stand is called a courte-échelle (short ladder). In the 1960s, this was the recommended climbing move in Bonney's guidebook.
Reinhold Messner wrote this about the legendary Austrian climber Hermann Buhl: “Had Hermann Buhl been born forty years later he would surely have been one of the leading sport climbers, and a classic mountaineer without equal.”
Reinhold Messner wrote this about the legendary Austrian climber Hermann Buhl: “Had Hermann Buhl been born forty years later he would surely have been one of the leading sport climbers, and a classic mountaineer without equal.”
Variation that's not usually taken by novice climbers:
There's a variation directly above the horn at the 1st Entrance (directly above Ellingwood's right arm). It runs up a tiny chimney/drainage. It can be used to access a ledge that runs along the top of the Double Chimney's Open-V variation (discussed further below). It's a good way to bypass slow climbers if this variation is dry. It can also be used as a shortcut to access the Catwalk. It's fairly easy; however, it's usually avoided because it's a drainage for water flowing off the Catwalk. It can be dangerously wet, icy and slimy. Downclimbing that variation has exposure with holds that look questionable above a drop to your death. Non-climbers may find it intimidating even when dry.
Let's look at the 2nd Entrance variations.....
Climber heading for the 2nd Entrance
This climber's handholds are along the obvious
cleavage above the sloping rock. His feet are on the sloping rock. Some
footholds are low on the slope, some high.
The crux is the last move off the cleavage as he gains the
interior of the chimney. It demands attention. The footholds are small and some might be more frictiony than you're
expecting.
Gaining the 2nd Entrance
Climbers have fallen to their death around this area. One involved a lightning strike which took the life of Brandon Oldenkamp (21) and sent 15 others to the local hospital. Another involved Don Ivie (44) who was soloing the route. He was alone and his exact location & the cause of his fall is unknown. There have been others.
In the video below, Bob takes a slip as he tries to enter the 2nd Entrance of the Double Chimney. This is a common area for minor slips as the footholds are more friction than bomb-proof step. He recovers and goes on to make some GT climbing history.
A big slip that didn't slow him down
Watch for loose rocks as you enter the chimney.
Watch for loose rocks as you enter the chimney.
We will take a moment to say something about departure times from the trailhead. In August of 2017,
Bob Harris, seen above, made the first known ascent up the Grand by an individual with Down syndrome. His team departed the
trailhead just before 6 a.m. and arrived at the summit around 5:15
p.m. Had they arrived at the Upper Saddle in the morning it would have
been a much longer day, and more dangerous. The climbing was cold and
icy in the morning. Some climbers turned around. The weather was nice
and warm later in the day with much safer conditions. After climbing,
they camped overnight at the Lower Saddle. Not every day will provide
great afternoon weather for a delayed start; however, a late start is a common tactic with overnight icing.
You can see the ledge below these climbers in the next photo...
Let's look at the lower ledge variation to access the 2nd Entrance:
Lower ledge - heading for the 2nd Entrance
From the 1st Entrance, downclimb to a narrow
ledge that runs toward the 2nd Entrance. Directly below the 2nd Entrance
you'll find
a small step and some small holds on the wall in front of you.
Just a quick aside to say that climbers can be below you anywhere on the Grand. Certainly below the climber shown here. Be mindful about rockfall.
This is a funky spot for belaying. We ascended the 1st Entrance to avoid these climbers. Waiting on four climbers might take more time than it takes to reach the summit.
A ledge system between the two climbers continues to the north. It goes to the Great West Chimney and eventually connects to the 2nd Ledge of the North Face. Many climbers on the North Ridge will traverse to the Owen-Spalding to finish their climb. There's also a Double Chimney Bypass that they can utilize which goes directly to the Owen Chimney.
Renny
Lower ledge variation below 2nd Entrance
The 2nd Entrance
Jane looking up from the 2nd Entrance
The climber looking at the photographer is at the location where the 1st Entrance tops out. The next photo shows what he sees as he looks down at the 2nd Entrance....
We will look at several variations to move around the Double Chimney:
Stemming to move in or out of the Open-V is common. On a descent, climbers are often facing the opposite direction but still throwing a leg in the same spot to the north.
RJ
The rarely used crack along the southwest corner of the Open-V ends on a nice ledge. Just walk off to the east above the Open-V.
Stemming to move in or out of the Open-V is common. On a descent, climbers are often facing the opposite direction but still throwing a leg in the same spot to the north.
The Open-V. Tunnel variation below.
Climber in the northern slot
Photographer is on a ledge above the Open-V.
They went up the Upper Exum, down OS
The tunnel variation is considered easier. It's sometimes clogged with ice or icy snow. Take your time and consider the best variation for you.
The climber on the flake's edge is heading for the northern slot (left side).
Two free-soloing climbers, one descending
The climber on the flake's edge is heading for the northern slot (left side).
Photographer is on a ledge above the Open-V.
Exiting the Open-V to the southeast (right)
Many climbers exit in the opposite direction. Choose any.
Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Allan Bard (44), who was also a guide of the Palisades School of Mountaineering in Bishop, California, died after slipping on ice and falling 130 feet on a rope while leading the Double Chimney.
When icy, ice is almost always where you don't want it in the Double Chimney.
Taking a break at the entrance to the Open-V
North Slot directly below photographer
Rope in Tunnel. Open-V at top of image. The detached flake used to be upright, creating two chimneys.
Let's go back and look at the tunnel variation.
Downclimbing the tunnel variation.
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Back to our regular route options...
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Another look
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The Catwalk - looking northish - downclimb
The scramble between the Catwalk & Main Rap area
Climbers sometimes crab craw down the rock during the descent to reach the flatter part of the Catwalk variation. You won't recover (YOU WILL DIE) if you lose your balance, slip or trip in this area. So, at the very least stay low and go slow if you're new to this. Gravity and momentum are two hazards working against you as you downclimb this area. FKT runners will move very quickly but their hands are brushing the rock along the way.
The "stay low, go slow" scramble
The Owen Chimney
Lower part of the Owen Chimney
It might be easier to downclimb parts of the chimney while facing out with your hands or legs stemming on the walls when it's icy.
It can take several days for the mountain to drain or burn off after a storm; or, just a few hours. Or weeks, or 10 months come fall. This chimney is well shaded for most of the day so ice is usually slow to burn off. It all depends on the weather. Sublimation is the most common way for snow and ice to disappear when temps remain below freezing. It's one reason why nice conditions in October can never be ruled out.
Another look up
An obvious hand jam on the south side of the upper chimney is useful at times. You'll pass an old piton or two through the crux. Depending upon your location in the Owen Chimney, it's sometimes possible to climb out of the chimney and access the bypass to your south, or vice versa.
The free-soloing climber is exiting the lower part of the tunnel (she went up the Exum Ridge). The DC's tunnel variation is a tight fit with a backpack. You're on your hands and knees once inside. When dry, it's a very popular variation. Fairly quick and easy. Well, we say that but it's not easy and quick for everyone.
This is where you pop out of the tunnel on the ascent.
Some struggle, some cruise along
Exiting the tunnel
The common exit from the DC - looking WNW
The slabs by the climber have modest handholds when dry but they work fine. Those holds can become plugged with ice. Consider a slightly more northern exit when icy.
The woman is exiting the DC just above the tunnel
The rope is coming out of the tunnel variation. The belayer is at the bottom of the Owen Chimney. The Owen Chimney runs slightly sideways
to the southeast so you won't be able to fully see its interior as you exit the
Double Chimney.
Again, we think the holds to the left of the young woman are better than those along the direct line by the rope, especially under icy conditions.
Just to her right begins a shortcut to the Catwalk for climbers using that variation (see below).
Again, we think the holds to the left of the young woman are better than those along the direct line by the rope, especially under icy conditions.
Just to her right begins a shortcut to the Catwalk for climbers using that variation (see below).
The Owen Chimney & Catwalk
Variations
We will look at the Catwalk and the Owen Chimney in more detail in just a second.
Bypass variation that's not usually taken:
Climber at the start of the Owen-Chimney Bypass A Southern Variation: This bypass has been used for decades and mentioned in older guidebooks. You probably won't see anyone using it. As with the Catwalk, you can access the southern bypass
from the first opening in the Owen Chimney. The very bottom of this variation doesn't get much sunshine and it's often icy when the Owen Chimney is icy. A novice climber will find a dry bypass more
difficult than a dry Owen Chimney.
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The Owen Chimney is not very difficult when dry. Mostly steppy rock. It's not always easy to tell if ice is covering critical footholds in the chimney from below. As always, soloing under icy conditions is not recommended but stuff happens, or perhaps you have the experience to handle it.
We will look at the Catwalk and the Owen Chimney in more detail in just a second.
Bypass variation that's not usually taken:
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OC's Southern Bypass
You can also access the sunnier part of the bypass from the Catwalk if you travel a short
distance up the Catwalk and look for the easiest location to gain a
small ledge above you. That ledge runs above the entire length of the Catwalk's flat section. The climber above is standing on it.
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Sunnier (usually) part of the Owen-Chimney Bypass
Back to our regular route options...
The Catwalk Variation
We'll look at the Catwalk variation first and then go back and look at the Owen Chimney variation.
Two ways to the Catwalk
The climbing line that runs directly to the Catwalk from the Double Chimney goes by a flake that looks suspicious (see break in line) It's been a reliable flake for decades but
there are options on both sides in case you wish to avoid it. Easy climbing. This is
the fastest line to the Catwalk.
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The
soloing climber in the blue jacket is taking the direct line toward the
Catwalk from the Double Chimney. The climber in the red jacket is at the
base of the Owen Chimney. The Double Chimney is to the left of the
photographer.
The Owen Chimney at 1st opening
At the Owen Chimney's 1st opening
This is the view from just above the first opening in the Owen Chimney. You must go around a tight corner to access the Catwalk from the chimney. Easy to navigate when dry. You might see an old piton at the corner. A couple more pitons run along the Catwalk's eastern wall.
The photographer is by the Owen-Chimney Bypass. The access to the Catwalk is behind the climber and around the corner (see below)...
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The Catwalk - looking southish. Climbers are descending.
The Catwalk is the preferred descent route for most free-soloing climbers and for almost all free-soloing FKT runners. FKT runners who are strong climbers should consider the Owen Chimney during an ascent if it's dry and empty. It might be their fastest option. Kilian Jornet used it while training for his FKT.
Ice is common near the location where the last climber is. That area is a significant drainage running over the Catwalk. The climbers shown above sailed past a sheet of ice covering about five feet of the catwalk and the wall. If you do find ice, it might be easy to step over it while using a hold on the wall. Sometimes you can scramble away from the wall to the west and find enough dry patches to pass a difficult section of ice. Not everyone is comfortable moving away from the wall but this is often an excellent option. You can always chip away at the ice if it strikes your fancy.
At times, verglas can be hard to quickly recognize if it's a tiny patch. It's common on the Catwalk.
At times, verglas can be hard to quickly recognize if it's a tiny patch. It's common on the Catwalk.
Climbers sometimes crab craw down the rock during the descent to reach the flatter part of the Catwalk variation. You won't recover (YOU WILL DIE) if you lose your balance, slip or trip in this area. So, at the very least stay low and go slow if you're new to this. Gravity and momentum are two hazards working against you as you downclimb this area. FKT runners will move very quickly but their hands are brushing the rock along the way.
Looking up at Sargent's southern approach
If
you take the Catwalk, you'll end up by the photographer's location
in the above picture as you approach Sargent's Chimney. These climbers
are heading for
the rappel back to the Upper Saddle.
The Owen Chimney variation
Let's go back and look at the Owen Chimney variation for those who don't want to take the Catwalk.
The Owen Chimney is part of the original route. It can get backed up pretty quickly with a group of climbers. We strongly recommend the Catwalk if things are going slowly. Or the southern bypass option.
The 75 foot Owen Chimney was referred to as the Spalding Chimney in Bonney's guidebook from the 1960's. And the entire route was sometimes called the Spalding-Owen Route. Both were more fitting names in our opinion as Spalding led the first ascent, was more modest about the achievement and was the better climber. Owen seemed a little too infatuated with a grandiose sense of self-importance when it came to his climbing.
It might be easier to downclimb parts of the chimney while facing out with your hands or legs stemming on the walls when it's icy.
It can take several days for the mountain to drain or burn off after a storm; or, just a few hours. Or weeks, or 10 months come fall. This chimney is well shaded for most of the day so ice is usually slow to burn off. It all depends on the weather. Sublimation is the most common way for snow and ice to disappear when temps remain below freezing. It's one reason why nice conditions in October can never be ruled out.
The Owen Chimney - nice steppy footholds when dry
On July 20, 2023, Braydan Duree of Kuna, Idaho died after falling 40 to 50 feet from the Owen Chimney. DuRee was wearing a helmet, using a rope and leading the route when he fell. No word on what caused the fall but conditions weren't totally dry.
An obvious hand jam on the south side of the upper chimney is useful at times. You'll pass an old piton or two through the crux. Depending upon your location in the Owen Chimney, it's sometimes possible to climb out of the chimney and access the bypass to your south, or vice versa.
We probably climbed this in work boots without crampons. More thin snow than ice. Plenty of dry rock or manageable conditions for an experienced climber. Maybe tacky snow. There's a fine line to navigate when conditions are mixed and you're soloing. It helps to have a deep well of experience. Most get that on the end of a rope. Often, the important skill to master is knowing when to turn around. If it's really icy, overlooked holds along the northern wall may prove useful.
As you might expect, icy conditions will require greater thought, skills and creativity in this chimney. If you wish to climb with crampons but don't have any, they can be rented from Teton Mountaineering in Jackson. Make sure they fit; large shoes may need a longer extension bar.
Owen Chimney
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Ledge at base of Sargent's Chimney
We are looking north in the photo. This ledge system runs between the Great West Chimney and the Exum Ridge.
You might find some privacy by the Great West Chimney if you need to take a piss. There isn't much privacy on this route but there are a few nooks and crannies. You can also head in the opposite direction, see below.
Another look when dry.
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The Hidden Exit variation is in the first alcove on your left
During a descent, many free-soloing runners don't want to check the Owen
Chimney because it's likely to be in use, or in poorer condition.
Checking an unknown option kills time. The Catwalk won't present any
delays for most runners when dry.
If we were out for an FKT, we would prefer to use an empty chimney on an ascent and the Catwalk on the descent. The option of going down the chimney's southern bypass would probably be slower than the Catwalk but we haven't timed it.
If we were out for an FKT, we would prefer to use an empty chimney on an ascent and the Catwalk on the descent. The option of going down the chimney's southern bypass would probably be slower than the Catwalk but we haven't timed it.
You're likely to see many more people above the
Owen Chimney & Catwalk. No matter their route to the summit, almost everybody uses the same descent path off the summit which is the upper half of the Owen-Spalding route. Most of
those people are heading for the Main Rappel to the Upper Saddle (the Owen Rappel).
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We are looking north in the photo. This ledge system runs between the Great West Chimney and the Exum Ridge.
You might find some privacy by the Great West Chimney if you need to take a piss. There isn't much privacy on this route but there are a few nooks and crannies. You can also head in the opposite direction, see below.
Overview of Sargent's Chimney
Sargent's
Chimney fans out at its base. The southern wall at the base of
Sargent's points toward the Main Rap. The northern wall points toward
the top of the Owen Chimney. Climbing the southern side of Sargent's is the
quickest line to and from the Catwalk. The northern access from the top
of the Owen Chimney might be the easiest for children but we can't
really say with certainty that one line is better for any age or skill
group. There are many ways to fully enter and exit this chimney.
Sargent's Chimney is named after Jessie Sargent.
Her husband, Frank Sargent was of the Governor of Massachusetts from
1969 to 1975. On Aug 9, 1960, she broke her ankle in a freak accident while on a guided climb in the chimney, taking several
days to get rescued. Her injury never healed properly. Times have certainly changed. Sargent's was sometimes called the
Fissure Chimney before then.
On August 4th, 1988, a Centerville, Utah, man was leading his two sons up the Owen-Spalding Route when he slipped on verglas near the 13,400' level and fell about 45' onto a ledge, fracturing his radius, pelvis and ribs and sustaining a hemopneumothorax. The call for help might have been the first time a cell phone was used to report a climbing accident in GTNP (using another party's phone: commercial guides). If true, that was during the dark ages of analog cell phones with fewer towers. Others have said the first emergency call from a cell phone was on Aug. 18, 1994, after a rappel anchor failed and a person fell 200 feet while on the Exum Ridge.
On August 4th, 1988, a Centerville, Utah, man was leading his two sons up the Owen-Spalding Route when he slipped on verglas near the 13,400' level and fell about 45' onto a ledge, fracturing his radius, pelvis and ribs and sustaining a hemopneumothorax. The call for help might have been the first time a cell phone was used to report a climbing accident in GTNP (using another party's phone: commercial guides). If true, that was during the dark ages of analog cell phones with fewer towers. Others have said the first emergency call from a cell phone was on Aug. 18, 1994, after a rappel anchor failed and a person fell 200 feet while on the Exum Ridge.
In the middle of the image, there's a triangle-shaped tip of a rock sticking out of the snow with a black rectangular inlay. Can you find the inlay in the next photo?...
All free-soloing. The rope in the image is probably a rappel line.
The Hidden Exit
The Hidden Exit out of Sargent's is the most common ascent line. This variation appears to be the original line climbed by the Owen-Spalding party when you look at Owen's marked-up photo of the route they took (seen further below).
Since the main chimney is often used for rappelling and because guides sometimes belay clients down the Hidden Exit, you'll need to decide what climbing line is best for you once you arrive. The fastest and safest option depends upon your climbing skills and how busy it is.
There's always a chance of rockfall caused by climbers in the main chimney. Pick lines that offer some protection if climbers are above you. Or wait for the threat to pass.
Let's examine the Hidden Exit in more detail first.
It helps to pay attention to all the
possible holds during an ascent to speed up the descent. This is an awkward corner to race down quickly. There's a big foothold near Cannon's upper body that's often overlooked.
Just below the woman in the white shirt is "the bathtub"
The climber in the yellow shirt is in a small chute that gets you out of the Hidden Exit. That's the most common line of travel. You could also climb the short wall just north of the bathtub as seen below. That might be helpful if the area is backed up with climbers.
Another look at the Hidden Exit area
There's a shortcut from the top of Sargent's Chimney that runs under
the western aspect of the Three Stooges. It doesn't really save any time but it's another option. Because most people utilize
the Hidden Exit upon an ascent and not the complete chimney, that
shortcut is rarely used.
Andrew at the small chute out of the Hidden Exit
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The square-shaped Owen Rappel overlook is just above the climbers in the background. The rappel is south of them (your left).
Let's take a closer look at Sargent's upper chimney
This is the exit location that most climbers will utilize if they climbed directly up Sargent's Chimney. It's at the first opening in the upper chimney and just above the rap slings. Sargent's Chimney actually continues for a short distance further up the mountain. This photo was taken on Aug 4, 2012. Pretty dry. Sargent's Chimney can hold ice all year long in shaded pockets.
Some climbing parties will drop their climbing gear around here and scramble the rest of the way to the summit. It's usually safe to do that with most climbers under dry conditions; but, while rare, accidents have happened between here and the summit. Tired people make mistakes.
South side
Both sides of the bulge can be a little funky for novice climbers to tackle quickly.
Another look from below
The downclimbing climbers are coming from the Hidden Exit area.
In the late 1990s, climbing guide Jed Williamson was taking a client up the Owen-Spalding route when he was hit by a rock dislodged by a client with another guided party. Jed had given his helmet to his client at the Lower Saddle because she wasn’t happy with hers.
If climbers are bypassing the Hidden Exit and climbing the upper chimney, there are two common lines for an ascent: the right and left sides of the upper chimney. We
think they're pretty close in terms of difficulty. The right side (above the right-most climber in the image) might be safer if people are above you. You'll have a better feel for your safest options once you arrive.
Six free-soloing climbers were in the chimney (including photographer). It's not unusual to see that many free-soloing climbers on the mountain but six in one spot is not too common. Notice that several have helmets.
In the late 1990s, climbing guide Jed Williamson was taking a client up the Owen-Spalding route when he was hit by a rock dislodged by a client with another guided party. Jed had given his helmet to his client at the Lower Saddle because she wasn’t happy with hers.
Alright, back to the climb above the Sargent's. You're headed for the Slabby Wall.
As you can see, it's a pretty straight shot to the summit after passing the Hidden Exit. This is mostly easy scrambling. You may want to zig-zag around some features.
Go northish for a short distance after exiting Sargent's or its Hidden Exit and turn right as soon as it's easy to do so. It's an obvious line when you see it.
The Three Stooges is highlighted above and it's seen more fully in the next image...
The Three Stooges are easy to miss upon a descent unless you're looking back up the slope.
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A wall of rock will be on your south side for part of the way as you head toward the Slabby Wall.
The center crack of the Slabby Wall points toward the summit and back toward Sargent's Hidden Exit. Remember that.
Climb its center crack (or its sides); or, switchback around the Slabby Wall to the south. There's a small ledge at the top of the southern half of the Slabby Wall that's often used as part of a switchback.
A feature called The Horse is a false summit above the wall (seen above). The crack points toward the true summit.
These climbers are cutting short the longer switchback option on the southern half of the Slabby Wall.
None is on a rope in the above 2 photos. Runners who are strong climbers might find it faster to climb by the center crack and skip the switchbacks. On this day, we took on the switchbacks and actually beat everyone taking the direct line. Most guided groups use the switchbacks.
Somewhere below the summit lookin' toward Cascade & Valhalla Canyon
Edgar did a single-day, round-trip soloing everything. He was working two jobs in Jackson, getting little sleep, and set to go to work at the Four Seasons on the overnight shift after climbing. He showed up at the Four Seasons but his crew covered for him. He went to sleep to get ready for his next job.
The last scramble to the summit will probably include a few climbing moves if you don't find the easiest way. It's not difficult climbing. Many variations to the NE. You're heading to the north side of the Horse.
SUMMIT
Geraldine Lucas 1924 - over 100 years ago
In 1924, a 58-year-old Geraldine Lucas
became the second woman to reach the summit, and first local woman to
do so. She received a
Bachelor's degree from Oberlin College in 1898. At that time she was a divorced 32-year-old single mother. Look for her name carved into the rock below the summit monument. Descendants of the Lucas family still reside in Jackson Hole. Only six visits to the summit had taken place before her arrival.
The men standing next to her are Ike Powell, Allen Budge and Jack Crawford. Allen said of the experience, "I never lost anything up there and... never wanted to go back." And trust us, many still feel the same way. For some reason, Allen is missing from the August summit register. Members of the Budge family still live in Jackson Hole.
The men standing next to her are Ike Powell, Allen Budge and Jack Crawford. Allen said of the experience, "I never lost anything up there and... never wanted to go back." And trust us, many still feel the same way. For some reason, Allen is missing from the August summit register. Members of the Budge family still live in Jackson Hole.
16-year-old Paul Petzoldt, everyone's guide, is sitting in the photo. Paul, with almost no climbing experience,
made his first ascent up an icy Grand Teton while wearing cowboy
boots. Twenty-two days later, he made his third trip with Geraldine.
Paul founded what became Exum Mountain Guides, the National Outdoor Leadership School and the Wilderness Education Association. NOLS alumni went on to run and own Jackson Hole Mountain Guides which was started by Barry Corbet.
Her first time climbing
She was on the college rowing team and unsurprisingly sailed up the OS with speed. His 2nd time soloing. August 2017.
We skied in jeans too
Johnna & Becky soloed the OS at the end of August in 2019.
The names of the Owen party are etched into the rocks surrounding the USGS monument, along with other names from long ago.
Nice weather and mostly dry conditions after a snowy September on this day
The
Trailfinders School for Boys
in
1950
A 1947 Summit Register for the TSB
The Main Rappel to the Grand Teton's Upper Saddle
The man rappelling off the bolted chain is directly below the man using the sling. He will need to travel a greater distance on his rope compared to the man using the rope off the sling. It's unknown how long his rope was with rope stretch, but a 60m rope might not make it. Just after leaving sight of the rappel setups, it's possible to land on a nice ledge that can be used to adjust your position and check your rope. People have come up short of rope while rappelling here. And Exum Mountain Guide Gary Falk lost his life in a fall from the sling area.
Enclosure's summit
View from the Enclosure
Ditto
Photo taken from the Enclosure by Billy Owen
If it's 90°F in the afternoon at the valley floor, the summit will probably reach the 60s at some point. Cooler in shaded areas. Temperatures above 90°F are pretty rare in Grand Teton National Park.
In 2022, the highest two temperature readings at the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle arrived on September 4 & 8, (63°F & 62°F). And fairly good conditions for soloing quickly were found into October. In 2022, we had one of the driest Julys on record but August rushed in with one of the wettest starts in history. In 2015, it was hard to find a summer raindrop that impacted climbers — except for one notable storm which encased the mountain in snow and ice in August. In July of 1993, 6 feet of snow fell at the Lower Saddle and it was the coldest & wettest summer on record. Great for the retreating glaciers, not so much for climbers. All this illustrates that the weather and conditions can vary greatly from year to year, at any time of year, and averages mean little for any particular summer climbing season.
FYI: It's not unusual to find water sources frozen at the saddle even though the weather station's data says temperatures stayed above freezing. If the thermometer isn't miscalibrated, unique environmental factors are causing the water to freeze. You can get an inversion between the weather station's temp sensor and the ground, and other factors can come into play.
Temperature swings at the Lower Saddle are fairly mild compared to those at the valley floor during the summer. Temperature inversions during the summer are typically limited to overnight or early-morning hours. Summer inversions rarely have large temperature spreads. During the winter, inversions are common and can reach a 40°F difference on extreme days.
Overview - Upper Exum
Overview - Owen-Spalding
The Approach to the Lower Saddle
Wyoming Whiskey Home Page
Jim Huidekoper owned
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides from about
1970 to 1975. Stearnie skied Teton Pass before you did and he
owned
Hungry Jacks in Wilson. Schwartz was a partner in
the old Point Store
at
Hoback Junction.
Some of these scouts hiked to the Lower Saddle with packs almost as heavy as they were. It was a cold climb up the OS before the sun hit. A few had frozen hands. BE PREPARED
A 1947 Summit Register for the TSB
1950. Glenn Exum far right, Paul Petzoldt far left.
Dog in the middleLove those climbing helmets. Kids were climbing the Grand back in the 30s, too. A 13-year-old Jay P. Bartlett and his 11-year-old brother Frank of Ogden, UT reached the summit on July 15th, 1933 with Paul Petzoldt as the guide, and in a single day from the valley floor. One year later, 10-year-old Fred Eriksson of Stockholm, Sweden, bagged the summit on August 27th, 1934. The Salt Lake Telegram covered that ascent. At least three 13-year-olds and three 11-year-olds cruised to the summit in the early 30s according to the 1937 version of GTNP's Autumn Nature Notes published on npshistory.com. By the way, that dog in the picture was carried up much of the route. It did not climb the OS.
The above image was captured by
William (Billy) O. Owen
of John Shive, Franklin Spalding, and Frank Petersen on the summit of
the Grand Teton on August 11, 1898. Two days later, members of the party
returned
to build a cairn and chisel their names in the summit boulder while Owen took photos from the Enclosure. Descendants of the Peterson family still live in Jackson Hole. According to Charlie Peterson, as told by "Captain Bob", Frank Peterson liked to take a sip of whiskey every morning to start his day. There used to be plaque on the summit commemorating the ascent of the Owen party. It was stolen in 1977.
DOWNCLIMB
The hard part isn't over. You need to get back down safely. And back to the trailhead.
Start off on the right foot and think about safety. In 2017, Evan Pack, 33, of Lehi, UT summited the Grand Teton and was beginning to descend the mountain when he lost his footing directly below the summit and fell approximately 20 feet. He suffered serious injuries requiring evacuation.
On August 17, 1985, Bruce McMurtrey took a small fall near the summit and had smashed his right shoulder against a rock wall, dislocating it. A ranger performed an on-site reduction. Alpine Savvy has some tips about on-site reductions. These injuries are common.
Start off on the right foot and think about safety. In 2017, Evan Pack, 33, of Lehi, UT summited the Grand Teton and was beginning to descend the mountain when he lost his footing directly below the summit and fell approximately 20 feet. He suffered serious injuries requiring evacuation.
On August 17, 1985, Bruce McMurtrey took a small fall near the summit and had smashed his right shoulder against a rock wall, dislocating it. A ranger performed an on-site reduction. Alpine Savvy has some tips about on-site reductions. These injuries are common.
Once you're back at the Slabby Wall, look for its center crack. As stated before, it points down toward Sargent's Hidden Exit. Below the wall, scramble down the easiest descent line (overall straight line) until the easier scrambling comes to an end. Look for Sargent's or its Hidden Exit to your south. Downclimb either variation. Or rap down Sargent's main chimney.
Let's take a look at the rappel area that drops you back onto the Upper Saddle.
The Upper Saddle's landing zone slopes downhill from south to north below the rappel. The landing zone (LZ) below the sling sits higher than the landing zone below the bolted chain. Most climbers get by with a dynamic 60m rope thrown a little to the south from the sling. Make sure your rope is truly 60m and dynamic (not every climber has a handle on that). Again, thrown south from the sling. It's over 30m if you go further north. If you hauled an 80m rope up here, that's impressive but most bring a 60m rope. If the area is backed up, try partnering up with another party and use two ropes from the bolted chain. The 70' rap area isn't a fan favorite but it's a third option.
As seen in the photo, the 70' rappel area can be reached from the main rappel's sling if you climb up a very short chimney directly above the sling. You can also reach it directly from the base of Sargent's Chimney. Watch for loose rocks everywhere. Don't get 'em rolling.
Descending in January
Nowadays, winter or winter-like ascents are mostly for ski mountaineers. Very few people set out to climb without skis. The above photo has Guide Greg Collins in back, his client in the middle, and Dan Carson in front. Andrew Carson thinks he took the photo in 2008. Andrew posted it on Mountain Project. They're taking the switchback just south of the Slabby Wall. Andrew Carson used to own JHMG and he guided many winter climbs. His career took him
into real estate, conservation work, climbing, and the non-profit world. He participated in
Paul Petzoldt’s very first course at the National Outdoor Leadership School in 1965. He and his wife Nancy moved to
Wilson, WY, in the late ’60’s.
Let's take a look at the rappel area that drops you back onto the Upper Saddle.
Main Rappel Area
The Upper Saddle's landing zone slopes downhill from south to north below the rappel. The landing zone (LZ) below the sling sits higher than the landing zone below the bolted chain. Most climbers get by with a dynamic 60m rope thrown a little to the south from the sling. Make sure your rope is truly 60m and dynamic (not every climber has a handle on that). Again, thrown south from the sling. It's over 30m if you go further north. If you hauled an 80m rope up here, that's impressive but most bring a 60m rope. If the area is backed up, try partnering up with another party and use two ropes from the bolted chain. The 70' rap area isn't a fan favorite but it's a third option.
Almost without exception, free-soloing climbers on the Owen-Spalding do
not use the rappel or carry ropes. For many, it's always quicker to
downclimb the OS route and usually safer. Free-soloing climbers might
carry a rope under adverse conditions or while exploring new areas. Some may carry a thin and light emergency rope. Some
will catch a ride on another person's rope. That's pretty easy to do
during the busy season, but not common.
Dick Pownall
was the first to use the rappel area. He started climbing and guiding
in the Tetons during the late 1940s. And he finished in 2002, at the age
of 75. According to Tom Hornbein,
he toyed with the idea of another climb when he turned 90. The main rappel to the Upper Saddle is also known as the Owen Rappel. And at one
time, the Pownall Rappel.
Be very careful while traveling around the rappels. There are many loose rocks.
On September 8, Jim Bjorken (24 ), Dick Blankenbeckler (25 ) , and Tom Creese (24) were on the descent from the summit when they took cover in a small cave above the Owen Rappel. After several close lightning strikes, a strike occurred just above the cave. All three men received burns and Blankenbeckler was knocked out. The other two men gave Blankenbeckler artificial respiration for half an hour before he fully regained consciousness.
Be very careful while traveling around the rappels. There are many loose rocks.
On September 8, Jim Bjorken (24 ), Dick Blankenbeckler (25 ) , and Tom Creese (24) were on the descent from the summit when they took cover in a small cave above the Owen Rappel. After several close lightning strikes, a strike occurred just above the cave. All three men received burns and Blankenbeckler was knocked out. The other two men gave Blankenbeckler artificial respiration for half an hour before he fully regained consciousness.
Raps back to the Upper Saddle
Three climbers are at the maintained 30m+ sling and four are approaching the 1st setup for the 70' rap. The 70 foot rappel option is broken into two parts.
As seen in the photo, the 70' rappel area can be reached from the main rappel's sling if you climb up a very short chimney directly above the sling. You can also reach it directly from the base of Sargent's Chimney. Watch for loose rocks everywhere. Don't get 'em rolling.
The first setup isn't a 70' drop. The distance you travel between the two stations might be 70 feet but the drop to the upper landing zone is pretty short. You can downclimb a
tight, slanting chimney and avoid the first setup if you wish. The
second setup is a 70 foot drop. You should probably use new slings on the 70' rap setups. Don't trust the old tat.
The man rappelling off the bolted chain is directly below the man using the sling. He will need to travel a greater distance on his rope compared to the man using the rope off the sling. It's unknown how long his rope was with rope stretch, but a 60m rope might not make it. Just after leaving sight of the rappel setups, it's possible to land on a nice ledge that can be used to adjust your position and check your rope. People have come up short of rope while rappelling here. And Exum Mountain Guide Gary Falk lost his life in a fall from the sling area.
There have been 2-hour
delays at the rappel to the Upper Saddle. That can be a real safety hazard with weather rolling in. Once again, share a rope, downclimb the OS, or try the 70' rap if the clouds are building.
Stamped 40m drop from bolted rap station
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Click to Download or Enlarge the following images...
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A fat ledge under the main rappel area
This is a good place to check your rope after leaving the Main Rap's sling or bolt. Photographer is at the 2nd setup of the 70' Rap.
Click to Download or Enlarge the following images...
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You can bag the Enclosure (the western spur off the
Grand
Teton's Upper Saddle) if you make it this far but feel like the climbing is a bit much. It's a funky scramble.
Mt Owen is seen in the shadow of the Grand on the left side of the image.
Original ascent path
Owen-Spalding Climbing Route
Click to enlarge
William O. Owen, of Owen-Spalding fame, surveyed a fair amount of land in Teton County. Owen triangulated the
altitude of Mt. Owen
in 1925, now his namesake. You can find
Owen's 6/30/1893 survey
of the
Town of Jackson on the BLM's GLO Records search page
(click the "Basic Viewer" button at the bottom of linked
page if needed). Owen might have littered Teton County with section corners but we haven't checked the records.
In other parts of Wyoming, Owen sometimes used
mastodon bones
as section corner monuments. He toured Yellowstone National Park on his Columbia high-wheel in 1883 along with some friends; "becoming the first people to ride through Yellowstone and the first to cross the Continental Divide awheel.”
Historical Weather
Average Weather At The Valley Floor
In
the graphic above, it indicates that the average September experiences
16 days below freezing at the valley floor. And the average low
temperature is 32 degrees. In the graphic below for the 11,600 foot
Lower Saddle, it looks like only 6 or 7 days dipped below freezing in September of 2018.
If it's 90°F in the afternoon at the valley floor, the summit will probably reach the 60s at some point. Cooler in shaded areas. Temperatures above 90°F are pretty rare in Grand Teton National Park.
In 2022, the highest two temperature readings at the Grand Teton's Lower Saddle arrived on September 4 & 8, (63°F & 62°F). And fairly good conditions for soloing quickly were found into October. In 2022, we had one of the driest Julys on record but August rushed in with one of the wettest starts in history. In 2015, it was hard to find a summer raindrop that impacted climbers — except for one notable storm which encased the mountain in snow and ice in August. In July of 1993, 6 feet of snow fell at the Lower Saddle and it was the coldest & wettest summer on record. Great for the retreating glaciers, not so much for climbers. All this illustrates that the weather and conditions can vary greatly from year to year, at any time of year, and averages mean little for any particular summer climbing season.
FYI: It's not unusual to find water sources frozen at the saddle even though the weather station's data says temperatures stayed above freezing. If the thermometer isn't miscalibrated, unique environmental factors are causing the water to freeze. You can get an inversion between the weather station's temp sensor and the ground, and other factors can come into play.
Lower Saddle Wind - 107 mph in October, 2018
-6.21°F per 1000ft at 4 p.m.
Temperature swings at the Lower Saddle are fairly mild compared to those at the valley floor during the summer. Temperature inversions during the summer are typically limited to overnight or early-morning hours. Summer inversions rarely have large temperature spreads. During the winter, inversions are common and can reach a 40°F difference on extreme days.
If
temps are getting cooler with elevation, we consider 12°F to be the
worst-case temperature difference between the Lower Saddle and the
summit under clear, dry skies. An average of 8°F
was the difference used by the National Weather Service back when they
provided a forecast for both the saddle and the summit. That never
changed even if the weather did. We have recorded a 12°F difference on a
clear, calm morning. The accuracy of our thermometer and the Lower Saddle's thermometer is not known (nor is an exact lapse rate). You might want more wiggle room in your worst-case scenario to rule out any possibility of new ice with a wet mountain.
Wildfires
You're
more likely to encounter wildfire smoke as we enter August. In 2021,
wildfire smoke arrived in the Tetons by mid-July and stayed around all
summer. In 2022, smoke wasn't much of an issue. You can track wildfire
smoke on most satellite images. Here's a look at Active Fires & Smoke Plumes. Forecast models for smoke are available from many sources including the National Weather Service's Air Quality interface and NOAA's HRRR Smoke Map. Or get a forecast for the jet stream. It's very rare to have a
smoke-free summer in the Tetons.
A few trip reports for April through October
July 17th, 2016 (UXM) PNG Variation
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Overview - Owen-Spalding
The Approach to the Lower Saddle
Wyoming Whiskey Home Page
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Enjoy Safe Climbing