The Hike To The Grand Teton's Lower Saddle


 The Lower Saddle @ 11,600'



Wyoming Whiskey Trip Reports
 
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The trail to the Lower Saddle is the most common approach used by climbers attempting to summit the Grand Teton. It's a very busy place during the summer.


Travel Maps


Jackson Hole Valley


Google has the distance from the Town of Jackson to the Lupine Meadows Trailhead at 21 miles.
     
 
(Trailhead and Grand Teton)
 Click to Enlarge


The Lupine Meadows trailhead is just south of Jenny Lake. The trail into Garnet Canyon is well maintained for 4.1 miles. Beyond there, the trail only sees occasional maintenance to Spalding Falls. Above the Falls, it's mostly an unmaintained trail. There's some scrambling through boulders and the trail has various spurs that may confuse less prepared hikers. CalTopo has a topo map of trails inside Garnet Canyon as do many other mapping portals.

 ~ Some GTNP Facts ~
 
Miles of paved roads: 152
Miles of unpaved roads: 65
Miles of trails: 242

 

The Grand Teton rises about 7035 ft above the valley floor. 

The typical summer approach starts at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead. During the winter season, climbers and skiers start at the Taggart Lake Trailhead and use backcountry skis to access Garnet Canyon. There are other ways to get into Garnet Canyon but those are the most common.


Water
 

Water availability along trail & by camping sites


 
Water @ Jenny Lake Store

 
Free potable water is available at the South Jenny Lake Store 24/7 during the summer. The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is also near the store.


S. Jenny Lake Area


It's about 2.5 miles by car from the trailhead to the store. There's a shortcut trail by the Exum office if you're on foot. You can access water from the creeks flowing through Lupine Meadows but they may need filtering or chemical treatment.

Dehydration can cause health and performance issues. And, too much water can throw your electrolytes off balance. Plan with all that in mind. 


Garnet Canyon Camping




You have two options for acquiring backcountry camping permits:

1) First-come, first-served walk-in permits 
 
2) Online reservations

Depending on the time of year, you might receive the actual permit over the phone, from a visitor center, or at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station.

During the summer when the Jenny Lake Ranger Station is open, all backcountry camping permits for climbers must be picked up in person at the station. Walk-in permits can be picked one day before your trip begins. As of 2024, it appears that the park will allow reservations up to two days ahead if backcountry camping spots are available. The policy.

Camping zones are not always free of snow early in the season. The camping zones above the Meadows' Camping Zone can burn off at a faster rate than the Meadows. In 2018, the Meadows was covered in snow all summer long due to a large avalanche. It was nice and green on July 4th, 2016. Varies every year.

The park has over 1200 campground spots and over 800 lodging units. And there are bunk cabins at the American Alpine Club's Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch. Many camping locations are available in the Bridger-Teton National Forest. The Friends of the BTNF website has some tips for campers. We have our own webpage for campers but it isn't updated on a regular basis and it's mostly a starting point for checking out other resources. And many great camping apps & websites are available.


Camping Zones and Features


A Snowy Garnet Canyon 
Click to Enlarge
 

https://www.gaiagps.com/public/yDHyvnYJAEwhOEbbwaOtxVgO/?layer=GaiaTopoRasterFeet
Approach to the Lower Saddle
(shows total distance near 6.3 miles)


Strava's page for the hike to the Grand's Lower Saddle. And on GAIA GPS. Teton tracks used to be on Suunto's MovesCount.com website before the website was discontinued. Try their app. Mountain Project has its map. And there's AllTrails, Trailforks, CalTopo, OpenStreetMap, etc. The latest phone apps have great interfaces to help plan your day, keep you on route and track your performance.

The USGS Grand Teton topo maps (7.5 min, etc) from 1899 to 2021, are available for a free download in many formats. The formats include GeoPDF and GeoTiff files for tracking your location in real time from a smartphone app like Avenza while offline. You can also build your own topo map on the USGS website
 
Do you need a GPS track to find your way? Not so much during the day. It can be helpful at night. This hiker was walking just under 4 miles per hour when they started. It looks like they petered out on the switchbacks above the Meadows Camping Zone.




 
 ~ Hiking Times ~
 

The following times are approximate for free-soloing climbers who are moving fast (speed walking) & packing next to nothing (or very light) under good conditions....


First Junction: 30 minutes, 0.5 hrs total, 1.7 miles
Second Junction: 30 minutes, 1 hr total, 3 miles
Platforms Camping Zone: Just dist: 4.1 miles
Meadows Camping Zone: 30 minutes, 1.5 hrs total, 4.5 miles
Caves Camping Zone: Just dist: 5.2 miles to spring water
Moraines Camping Zone: Just dist: 5.9 miles to sign
Lower Saddle: 60 minutes, 2.5 hrs total, 6.4 miles
 

These are estimated times for those who do indeed move fast while walking and not times for everyone who thinks they can move fast while walking. The average hiker might take 5 hours to get to the Lower Saddle. The 4th edition of A Climbers' Guide to the Teton Range (2023) said it was 7.5 miles to the Lower Saddle on page 525. Not surprisingly, the new guidebook also has a map on page 266 showing the Lower Saddle under 6.4 miles from the trailhead which better matches GPS tracks.

Trekking poles might speed up the ascents. Just depends. Kilian Jornet used poles when attempting the Fastest Known Vertical Kilometer (3281 feet elevation gain—about two Snow Kings high). He took just under 29 minutes or about 14 minutes per Snow King. By comparison, his Grand Teton ascent time (without poles) from the trailhead took about 1 hour 51 minutes to rise just over 7000 ft (2147 meters) but it included a long approach.
 

~ Supplies ~


Make sure you have the appropriate supplies if you're unsure about the amount of time it will take you to climb the Grand Teton or hike to the Lower Saddle. Food & water. Sunscreen. Fully charged phone. Tissue paper and WAG bags. Proper clothing. Gloves. A headlamp with new batteries. Appropriate, comfortable shoes. Route map. Hiking poles. Backpack. Hand warmers. Whatever. Having said all that, overpacking is what free-soloing climbers try to avoid. Excess weight slows you down and causes prolonged unnecessary suffering.

The trailhead does trap cold air overnight. You may be pulling off layers before you get a quarter-mile up the trail. It can be hard to guess the proper amount of clothing to take unless you do this often. Clothing selection depends upon the forecast, time of year, how fast you plan to go, what route you're climbing, time you leave the trailhead, etc. It's not uncommon for morning temperatures at upper elevations to swing between the 20s and 40s during the summer before calculating wind chill.
 
Some run up the Grand Teton with next to nothing. Shoes and shorts. Like these guys. Unlike protected climbers, most free-soloing climbers are always moving and not exposed to cold weather for extended periods. Because they're moving quickly they also can start later and enjoy warmer weather.
 

~ Weather ~

 
A definitive mountain forecast can be hard to pin down if there's any instability in the atmosphere. And it's often impossible to say if that instability will be a real threat or harmless.

A Teton forecast is good for about 6 hours during the summer. If the Tetons are in the center of a massive, stable high pressure system then you're probably fine for an extended period, sometimes days. Either way, you'll want to keep a close eye on the weather while climbing. Highly localized and scattered afternoon showers are common and they're often not in a forecast.

It's wise to make conservative choices in regards to the weather if you're responsible for the safety of others. All the more so if you can't move quickly or don't know the mountain well. Failure to do this has caused serious weather-related injuries and deaths in the Tetons.
 
You can check a forecast on your phone from the Lower Saddle and on the summit. Cellular service has been spotty at the trailhead and inside Garnet Canyon but new towers have been installed in the park. They may enhance service. The weather radio channel for the Tetons is 162.525.

If the forecast, or forecast discussion, mentions monsoon moisture, a cold front, or a low pressure system moving in, you should think carefully about taking a trip up the Grand.

Modest temperature inversions at the 11,600 ft Lower Saddle are possible during the summer. Winter inversions can be more extreme, sometimes producing a 40° difference during the day. The first "winter" ascent included Paul Petzoldt, Fred Brown (a Jackson Hole skiing pioneer), and Eldon Petzoldt on December 19, 1935. They had a splendid jacket-free day on the summit above a valley floor frozen at -20°F.  Technically speaking, winter starts with the Winter Solstice so maybe you can't say it was the first winter ascent; however, for meteorologists, the winter season actually starts on Dec. 1 so maybe they gets a pass. 
 
It's easy to lose a bet with the weather. Aaron Gams, who wrote Teton Rock Climbs, made a classic mistake in the Tetons many years ago when he decided to climb the 5.4 to 5.5 Glacier Route on the Middle Teton. He went off route and got caught in a fast moving ice & snow storm. He was unable to retreat and spent two nights on the mountain encased in verglas before being recused. He lost his toes to frostbite in combination with hypothermia. He wrote about the nightmare in Alpinist back in 2007. Respect the slightest instability in the weather if you're climbing. NOTE: the story is no longer on Alpinist but we keep the link.

Speaking of frostbite, in 2024, the FDA approved the country's first medication to treat severe frostbite. Iloprost (sold as Aurlumyn in US) has been available in other parts of the world for years. In one trial, all of the patients given iloprost avoided having their digits amputated.


* Saddle's Hourly Forecast *

 Saddle's 7-Day Forecast

Jackson Forecast 48-hrs

Pivotal Weather

 

Current Climbing Conditions
 
 
The Jenny Lake Climbing Rangers are posting information about trail and climbing conditions to their  @jennylakerangers Instagram account.

More information on conditions might be available on Mountain Project forums or other social media platforms. Information from any source can be misleading, totally incorrect, or outdated. If you live here, ask around. Many climbers live in the valley. The Rec Center's climbing gym may prove useful.

 
Summer conditions & information: 307-739-3343

Winter/Off-Season conditions & information: 307-739-3309

WW JH & Grand Teton Webcams
 


~ Accidents ~


According to the American Alpine Club, 85 percent of the accidents involving Grand Teton climbers took place during the summer, and the single most frequent contributing factor was a fall on snow. Mostly during descents in three areas: the Meadows headwall, the Lower Saddle headwall, and the area between the Lower Saddle and Upper Saddle. A large percentage of accidents involved guided climbers. Here's a list of many GTNP accidents between 1989 & 2024. The AAC's website has accident reports going back even further. Not all accidents or injuries in GTNP are reported. In case you're looking for some solitude, the day of the week with the fewest accidents is Wednesday.


~ Overnight Parking ~


Camping is not allowed at the trailhead. This is enforced.

You can find various park proclamations about parking and backcountry use during the evening such as: "Overnight parking at trailheads is only permitted with a backcountry permit" and "You must obtain a permit when staying overnight in the backcountry." The definition of "overnight" in regards to use of park resources usually refers to an entire night and not a subset of the evening. And "overnight stays" in the backcountry usually refers to camping like an overnight stay at a hotel.
 
The park also says that "Permits are not required for day climbs" which seems to imply that night climbs might require a permit; except, the park also says that "a permit is not required for climbing in Grand Teton National Park."
 
For the record, people are parking at the Lupine Meadows Trailhead at all hours of the day and night to go climbing. A very large percentage of climbers are on single-day, round-trip climbs in the Tetons. Parties taking protection on those trips often leave the trailhead between midnight and 2 a.m. Some before, some after. Everyone has a different pace. Most are aiming to get off the mountain before afternoon showers might develop.

The climbing guides often start their group trips between 3 and 4 a.m. from the Lower Saddle. Soloing climbers tend to leave near daybreak but their departure times can vary with work schedules, current conditions, time of year, weather, fitness, personal preferences, etc. 


~ Bears ~


Bear activity in the park has increased so you'll want to stay alert and know how to deal with a bear encounter if you go with or without bear spray. Grizzly bears with young cubs or protecting a carcass are a greater threat to humans. The odds of getting hurt while climbing are higher than the odds of getting hurt by a bear but bears have injured and killed more than a few humans in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. We never carry bear spray during peak climbing season into Garnet Canyon. We have run into grizzly and black bears on the trail. The two grizzly bears were close to the valley floor, within 40 yards and, thankfully, were behaving like care-free bears. It is common to have close encounters with bears if you live here, mostly black bears.

"During interactions with humans, most bears exhibit considerable tolerance and restraint, consequently, interactions between people and bears often have no negative consequences for either, particularly if people act appropriately around bears. Habituated bears generally tolerate people in close proximity without being aggressive toward people. However, even habituated bears have a personal space that they monitor and may defend, so there are numerous examples of habituated bears injuring people when those people have pushed the bear’s tolerance too far. In 2007 one person was injured in GRTE by an otherwise well-habituated grizzly bear that perceived a threat to itself or its cubs."  Grant MacHutchon

Grant has been a wildlife biologist at A. Grant MacHutchon Consulting for 28 years. You can read his 'Human-Bear Interaction Risk Assessment' study on bears in the Moose-Wilson corridor which cost the NPS $21,700 and didn't tell them anything worthy of that fee (the park's bear managers could have written it).



~ Lupine Meadows Trailhead ~






The Lupine Meadows Trailhead is named the after the purple colored Silver Lupine flowers which are a common sight in the adjacent meadows. Besides being the most popular trailhead for Grand Teton climbers it's also a popular trailhead to several lakes. There's also an unmarked trailhead for Teewinot Mountain that's north of the vault toilets. Besides climbers and hikers, you may see elk and antelope in the morning. Maybe a moose or fox. Possibly deer or a bear. By the way, the garter snake is probably the only snake you'll ever see in Jackson Hole.


Hanging out in Lupine Meadows below Teewinot


Car break-ins happen inside the park. As with any trailhead, you should hide and lock up valuables.
 
The typical winter approach from the Taggart Lake Trailhead is discussed near the very bottom of this webpage. The rarely used Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead is discussed shortly.

 

The Lupine Meadows trailhead parking lot


The parking area starts getting busy around 5 a.m. during the peak climbing season. It will be busier on the weekends. It's often overflowing with cars parked along the sides of the access road by noon. The dirt road to the trailhead is sometimes a washboardy, potholy mess that will eat your suspension.  

The trail departing the trailhead is part of The Valley Trail that runs along the base of the Tetons.

 
 
~ Heading Out ~ 
 
 

 
It's about 1.7 miles to reach the first junction after leaving Lupine Meadows. Maybe 30 minutes or less if you're walking quickly.
 

First Junction
 

At the first junction is the trail to Bradley Lake. Don't go to Bradley Lake. And don't go toward the lakes at the second junction either! Happens way too often. The trail above the first junction is the Garnet Canyon Trail. You're heading for Garnet Canyon.
 
A good portion of the trail to the first junction follows an east-west ridgeline. On the north side of the ridge is Glacier Gulch. On the south side is the Burned Wagon Gulch.

Let's take a moment to discuss the unmarked trail which runs up the Burned Wagon Gulch. It ends at this junction. In the photo above, the upper end of the Burned Wagon Gulch trail is gained by finding the trail in the trees and bushes.


Burned Wagon Gulch Trailhead

 
The Burned Wagon Gulch trail starts along the road leading to the Climbers' Ranch. You'll see the very small pullout just after crossing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. Maybe 4 parking spaces. The Burned Wagon Gulch trail takes you within 500 feet of the Lucas Homestead. It also takes you right next to the Geraldine Lucas Memorial Gravesite (you'll see a plaque atop a large boulder in an open field). She was the 2nd woman to climb the Grand Teton, and the first local woman to do so.

We prefer the Burned Wagon Gulch trail during May & early June when snow covers the shaded portions of the trail from Lupine Meadows. The trail is sometimes overgrown and you may get soaked if dew is on the vegetation. Perhaps there's a greater chance of ticks.

The Park Service doesn't maintain the BWG trail very often but it's a good usable trail. It takes slightly more time to reach the first junction from the BWG trailhead compared to the Lupine Meadows trailhead. There's always the possibility of some flooding near the mouth of the gulch as snow melts off (head north to circle around it). The trail starts along the north slope (south face) of the gulch and avoids the low lands down the center.

You may want bear spray along the BWG trail early in the season because the trail sees less foot traffic and it goes by Cottonwood Creek which grizzly bears occasionally visit.

Back to our standard trail....

 
Water above 1st Junction
 

Just above the first junction are three sources of water which cross the trail. The first source dries up after the snow melts at elevations above it. It should probably be filtered. It has the strongest flow in June (time varies yearly) and it has a modest cascade during its peak. It completely dries up before the summer high season.

The next two sources are tiny trickles of seepage water. Some guides drink the water unfiltered. Both sources are just above the grade of the trail along the first switchback. You can't miss them. The two seepage areas have their uphill 'tanks' exposed during the spring season (super-saturated to the surface). Animals will congregate directly above the location you plan to drink from. It's fairly common to see animals within 100 yards of water sources, mostly deer, sometimes bears. We never filter our water so we choose the source carefully and we usually avoid these seepage areas.
 
Between the first and second junction is an old climbers' trail which is closed for rehab (there's a sign). There's barely a 60-second difference on the ascent between the two trails if you're in a hurry so there's usually no good reason to poach the old trail. There are several other shortcuts on the approach. One is just past this junction (no sign). They have been used for decades but......
 
The National Park Service has emphasized that cutting switchbacks on the maintained route is a violation of the park service regulation 36 CFR 2.1(b), "Shortcutting a switchback along a trail is prohibited"
 
Park regulations require you to stay on a maintained trail when one's available to your destination. There's less of an issue if you're scrambling over talus or snow. Some shortcuts are not safe or efficient. Short-cutting during an emergency or for safety reasons may be a necessity. You might need to move past a bear. Some unmarked, unmaintained, or unmapped trails are considered social trails which are acceptable for use. The trail into Glacier Gulch that goes up to Delta Lake is one of them (you're not headed there).


2nd Junction


After a bunch of switchbacks, you'll find yourself at another junction which is 3 miles from the trailhead. Non-stop walkers moving quickly usually get here in one hour from the trailhead. The trail heading north to the lakes is the Amphitheater Lake Trail. Again, don't go there. Head southish on the Garnet Canyon Trail. The trail starts to flatten with no more switchbacks until you're further inside the Garnet Canyon.


Water crossing climbers' trail


About 3.6 miles from the trailhead you'll find a strong flow of water crossing the trail before you reach Garnet Creek. It's flowing from the unseen Surprise Lake. We drink it unfiltered when the flows are strong but animals can still contaminate it. The water eventually stops running during the early summer. The dates change yearly.


On the approach with JHHS Climbing Club


The trail to the Platforms Camping Zone in Garnet Canyon was one of the first trails to be constructed in Grand Teton National Park. It was built by Civilian Conservation Corps laborers around the mid-1930's. The trail beyond there was constructed in 1977. The guidebook says it's unmaintained past the 1st Boulder Field; however, maintenance has taken place on the trail to Spalding Falls. The crew shown below was fixing a small slide that crossed the trail.
 
 
GTNP Trail Crew working in Garnet Canyon 2022



The trail disappears for over 200 feet at the boulder field next to Garnet Creek. The Platforms Camping Zone is to your south on the other side of the creek (there's a sign). You're about 4.1 miles from the trailhead. This area is known as the First Boulder Field. Sometimes it's referred to as the Platform's Boulder Field. The entire canyon is a boulder & talus field but this is the first boulder field you come to where the trail momentarily disappears. The trail restarts next to the creek and you're always on the north side of the creek. 

If you're camping at the Platforms Camping Zone, you'll find that the best location to cross the creek varies with its flow and ground conditions. There's a common scramble to the camping site from the sign at the temporary end of the trail. Head slightly southwest from the sign and scramble up to an elevated boulder and jump across Garnet Creek from there. Or near there.
 
 
General direction of guided travel when dry

There will be a bootpack over snowy boulders early in the season. It's sometimes sketchy.


Typical guided path
 

The slabs are super slick when wet. This area has been the site of accidents.


Exiting the 1st Boulder Field - ascent


Looking back


The trail between the First Boulder Field and the Meadows' Camping Zone disappears in a few locations for a short distance. You'll get back on the trail quickly. The trail is always near the creek.
 

Entrance to the Meadows Camping Zone

 
There are two signs next to the creek by the Meadows Camping Zone where the trail splits toward the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. Do not cross the creek like Kilian Jornet and Anton Krupicka. They headed toward the Middle Teton's South Col thinking it was the Lower Saddle. A common mistake.

It's about 1.5 hours from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead to the sign at the Meadows Camping Zone if you're moving quickly but not running. The Lower Saddle is about an hour away from the Meadows if you maintain a strong pace.


Break time by the Meadows

 
The Meadows area used to be bigger. It was buried in rockfall.


Head for the switchbacks by Spalding Falls


View from the summer switchbacks


Let's look at some snow routes on the Meadows' Headwall before we continue with the summer trail. 


Feel free to scroll past this next section if you're climbing under dry conditions.


Early-Season Snow Hazards


Hazards are everywhere with snow underfoot. A mountaineering axe is recommended for high-consequence travel over snow on the approach. Crampons may be needed with icy snow.

Deadly avalanches can happen throughout May. During June, snow avalanches can still happen but flushing is more common as a mix of snow, water, dirt, rocks, and ice all lose cohesion, helped along by very active freeze and thaw cycles.



The Meadows' Headwall


In 2013, Gary Miller was descending the more-northern snow route on the Meadows' headwall when he slipped and slid into a moat. He was consumed by freezing water. The location is highlighted below. Mark Anderson, 29, did the same thing in 1994. And others have done it elsewhere in the Tetons. Sections of both snow routes can be undercut by running water on the headwall.

"On June 23, 1956, Miss Patricia King (18) made an attempt to control her glissade on the headwall when the sudden jerking of her ice axe dislocated her right shoulder. After losing control of her descent, she bounced and rolled some 70 feet through the rocks causing multiple bruises and lacerations to her entire body, particularly her head and face."

The number of accidents surrounding the headwall between the Middle Teton & Disappointment Peak is high. The South Fork's slopes have also been deadly.


Ranger examining the moat where Gary lost his life


During the spring, we usually head by the pinch point shown above. Conditions dictate our travel path. And the path we take up the headwall may differ from the path we take down it. It helps to have an understanding of how the snow shapes up on various aspects as the day warms and cools. A few climbers get caught off guard by the changing conditions.
 
The large elevated rock outcroppings on the headwall are not recommended as travel paths. They usually slow down climbers.

"On June 9, 2015, Charlie Emerson, 31, of Marietta, Georgia was solo climbing a 4th class rock slab above the Meadows when he slipped and slid approximately 150-200 feet before coming to rest in a snowfield at the base of the rock feature. As these rock slabs melt out, they can be covered with slippery silt or sand, which makes good traction more challenging."  NPS


All routes a little sketchy


Robert Martin, 70, from Birmingham, Alabama was hiking down a snowfield near Spalding Falls (seen above) when he slipped and tumbled into a pile of rocks.  

It isn't just the snow that is dangerous. Back in September of 2013, Edward Tom, 40, of Boulder Colorado died after slipping over a cliff by the Caves Camping Zone following a summer hailstorm. 


Looking down the Meadows' Headwall


The climbing guides start their group trips up the Grand around mid-June. They will use the winter approach until the summer approach is safer. If you time it right, June's snow can be firm & punchy for a speedy approach without gear. You may need gear for the climb, or descent.

Spring skiers heading for the Grand Teton usually start very early in the morning to avoid hazards associated with warming weather. Those looking for corn skiing tend to wait for warming temps but waiting too long can increase the odds of avalanches. Skiing off the Grand starts gaining traction near the end of March or early April and continues through June. Activity rates vary with conditions and weather.

Factoids: Fred Brown at 16-years-old and Allen Hanks, the chief park ranger, were the first to ski into Grand Teton National Park in 1931 or '32. Paul Petzoldt, his brother Curly and Fred Brown enjoyed the first-known decent of Rendezvous Mountain in 1935, which would later become Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Ski industry pioneer Earl Ervin Clark cut his teeth climbing in the Tetons with the Chicago Mountaineering Club and helped set up the first ski camp in GTNP's Alaska Basin in 1941.

In 1938, the National Forest's Intermountain Region listed the following ski areas in western Wyoming: Teton Pass, Hoback Canyon, Star Valley Divide, and Jackson (on the Town Hill which became Snow King). The Forest Service indicated that Jackson's Town Hill offered three ski jumps of various sizes in addition to a 150-yard slalom run and a 300-yard downhill run. Ski instructions were provided by Fred Brown (who used to haul mail over Teton Pass on skis).


Bill Briggs' ski line from June 15, 1971


1971 was also the year that Sylvain Saudan skied Mount Hood in Oregon, and Fritz Stammberger dropped in on the North Maroon Peak in Colorado. It took 41 years after Bill Briggs first skied the Grand Teton before the first woman, Kit Deslauriers, skied it solo (June, 2013). Kit also skied off Everest (to the degree possible) with her husband Rob and Jimmy Chin while successfully becoming the first person to ski the highest peak on every continent.

FYI: Some areas in the Tetons have winter closures to protect wildlife that extend into early spring (usually reopen May 1). Know what places to avoid.


Let's get back to our summer approach


View of Spalding Falls & Switchbacks

There are a series of switchbacks by Spalding Falls and even more switchbacks above the falls. It's considered bad form and a safetly hazard to shortcut the switchbacks below the top of the falls. Those switchbacks are surrounded by vegetation and shortcutting causes erosion which leads to rockfall. Leave no trace whenever possible.

This next picture is looking toward the South Fork of Garnet Canyon from the switchbacks. It's the most common approach to the Middle Teton's summit....via the SW Couloir. Sometimes it's nice to know the names of the peaks you're passing by.

 
South Fork Garnet Canyon
 

Back to the North Fork route to the Lower Saddle....


Douglas
The picnic rock atop Spalding Falls

The photographer is by the spring water feeding Spalding Falls and its arteries....


Location of spring water


There's more water further up the trail but this is the best place for filling up.  Almost everyone drinks this water unfiltered. We have no idea how well it gets filtered or diluted but it tastes great.

The top of the falls is next to the Caves Camping Zone (AKA Petzoldt's Caves). Paul Petzoldt, original founder of today's Exum Mountain Guides spent many nights camping at the caves. 



 
Paul Petzoldt enjoyed packing a bottle of champagne to the summit on New Year's Eve and taking NOLS students with him. According to the newspaper account, Paul was 67 when the above photo was taken — he's at his namesake caves. Temperatures reached -30 at one point and winds hit 60 mph.

There's a bear box at the Caves. Trees and rock provide some protection from sun and wind. Temperatures are usually comfortable. It's closer to good water and it hosts fewer climbers. It's also a reasonable distance to various objectives. All human waste must be packed out.

Spalding Falls (and Spalding Bay) is named after Bishop Franklin S. Spalding who was on the first verified ascent of the Grand Teton in 1898 along with William O. Owen, John Shive and Frank Petersen. Spalding led the climb.



Approach above Petzoldt's Caves & Spalding Falls

 
Early-Season Conditions and Shortcuts

 
You're heading for some stunted trees below the southwest side of Watchtower. You'll pass some large rock outcroppings by those trees before the switchbacks come to an end at a drainage. 

The early-season snow can be sketchy. Shortcuts over dry rock might be a wise choice if they avoid serious hazards. The guides sometimes cut a path through snowy sections of the summer trail if it's slow to burn off.

In the marked-up photo are the words "Elevated Rib Shortcut". You'll find some trail spurs going off in different directions near the lower end of the rib. The trail running up the rib is only used to avoid early-season snow. Another spur runs toward the Middle Teton. And yet another spur is running toward the Lower Saddle but petering out along the way. You can see the approximate path some have taken highlighted on several web platforms that have GPS tracks.

Above Petzoldt's Caves, it's a common practice to venture off the snow-covered trail early in the season to avoid snow hazards. You should avoid trampling over fragile vegetation. There are some well-used snow-season shortcuts above the Caves. Some confuse the spurs for the actual trail which is unmarked.


Looking back from the switchbacks below Watchtower

 
Switchbacks end here. Water flows early in the season. Flowers are common.


At the end of the switchbacks, the trail will parallel a drainage for a short distance just before you cross it. The trail through the drainage doesn't always stand out early in the season. And there are several trails in this area that may confuse climbers. It helps to have a reference marker for the crossing. The East Face of the Grand Teton will be seen between two large boulders at the eastern edge of the drainage as you near the crossing point. A small bushy tree is just to the east of the two large boulders.

If you find yourself on a trail that keeps ascending up the slope toward the East Face of the Grand, you're most likely on a trail that runs to the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides high camp. Don't go there. Look for a trail below you that traverses the slope; or just head for the Lower Saddle and regain the trail atop the Middle Teton glacier's moraine.

A short distance past this drainage is another drainage with water that flows throughout the climbing season. Rock slides can cause the water to lose clarity and increase particulate matter (like in 2022) but it tends to run clear. It's exposed to activity by people and critters so its purity is open to debate. Having said that, we have been drinking this water for decades without treatment. How you drink it is up to you.


The 2nd Drainage along the talus slope (below Corbet High Camp)

 
The Corbet High Camp is at the top end of this drainage. It's named after one of the more fascinating characters in mountaineering & skiing, Barry Corbet.

There are several spots to pitch a tent around this area. This is not a regulated camping zone. In the past, the rangers didn't seem to care if you pitched a tent around here assuming you have a camping permit for the some place nearby. Nonetheless, one never knows how any individual ranger will express their authority and carry out their mission to protect the talus from human activity so don't be surprised if you're asked to move. One concern would be people using the drainage area as a bathroom. The slightly elevated rockfall threats by the drainage should cross your mind.

The trail past this drainage becomes rockier and narrower. It doesn't stand out like a neon sign but most people can recognize the trail. The trail goes uphill for a very short distance after passing this drainage and then continues west. With an inch or so of snow, the trail might be difficult to follow.

 

If you manage to stay on the trail, you'll soon encounter the 2nd Boulder Field where the trail disappears for over 200 feet. It's just before entering the signed Morainal Camping Zone.


Overview


Closer look

The location where the lateral moraine flattens is just below the 2nd Boulder Field.


View from the climber's trail

If you get off trail, visually follow the lateral moraine to your south and you'll find the trail and a sign as you get closer to the camping zone. The moraine runs into the first camping spot.


Where the trail disappears
 

Just before you reach the 2nd Boulder Field, the trail runs toward the north aspect of a "Giant boulder with the cave under it" (about the size of a 2-car garage - see above). That alignment will help you re-find the trail during the descent.


The cave


Looking back


More than a few people don't regain the trail on a descent. Some forget where it is. Others are trying a more direct line over talus and boulders. It's best to stay on the trail if you don't know the area. Many boulders are unstable so exercise care if you're rock hopping.

Campers in the Morainal Camping Zone can get water from the Middle Teton Glacier. The water from the glacier is not always exposed along its length. You may need to search for a good tap.


Looking back down, camping zone highlighted (approx)


Snow fields may prove faster and possibly safer than the trail for FKT runners under good snow conditions (usually during the early season). Some climbers use the entire glacier drainage to reach the Meadows Camping Zone. We don't recommend it outside of snow season.

Camping sites at the moraine will take some effort to find under darkness. They blend in with the surroundings. Most of the camping sites are a short distance off the trail to your left & right. The elevated camping spots provide some protection from rockfall and avalanches. One large camping spot is to the northwest in a depression.
 
In September of 2007, a large rockslide fell from the Stettner Couloir and cascaded across the western end of the moraine. The dust cloud could be seen from the valley floor. Rocks, some chest high, flew by two climbers who took shelter behind a large boulder. Their camping site took direct shots. The Park Service has shortened the Morainal Camping Zone because of such hazards. 

Approved bear-resistant food storage canisters are required at the Morainal Camping Zone. Canisters can be checked out for free at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station with the purchase of a camping permit. There are bear boxes at the other camping sites. Feel free to donate a bear box. The park service may try to eliminate bear boxes in the backcountry and force campers to pack bear cans.

The summer trail runs along the crest of the moraine. When encountering multiple trails, we usually stay on the highest path while heading for the saddle. Sometimes we're rock hopping. Take any path you want. The sign for the western end of the Morainal Camping Zone is along the high path.


Mid-June approach at the moraine above 10,000'


A bootpack up the Lower Saddle's headwall is used until enough snow has burned off the headwall to make the Fixed Rope the better option. The snow on the Saddle's headwall can be icy, grippy, punchy, and a sloppy mess all in a single day. It's the sight of many accidents.

Wait for a dry climbers' trail if you want to eliminate your exposure to snow. Usually around mid-July but it varies. Sometimes it's early July, sometimes it's....August........


The bootpack on Aug. 7th


One person is glissading in the photo. In 1985, a climber accidentally gave himself a lethal self-inflicted axe wound while on the headwall.

On July 6, 1989, Ralph Trover (40) and Joe Kelsey (50) with Exum Mountain Guides were descending the snowfield on the Lower Saddle headwall with clients Tamara Martin and Wesley Jones. Kelsey was leading, followed by Jones, then Martin, with Trover last. The snow was soft. The entire party was roped, with short sections of rope separating each climber. Martin fell. Her momentum jerked the other members of the rope team off their stances. All slid a hundred meters down the snowfield. Kelsey sustained a fracture/dislocation of the left ankle in the fall.
 
Paul Petzoldt and Glenn Exum sometimes took a standing glissade and jog down the saddle's headwall. The guides favor a bootpack across the headwall for their clients but they'll also glissade. It's not unusual for the bootpack to be in poor shape.



 
The semi-usable hiking paths below the Fixed Rope get decimated by rockfall, traffic and landslides. It's a common place to slip. A man from Plano, TX, had to be rescued after severely injuring his left ankle below the headwall back in 2006. And on August 6, 2010. a 31-year-old employee of J.H. Mountain Guides fell approximately 20 feet while hiking just below the Lower Saddle and had to be rescued.


Fixed Rope


It's pretty easy to get up and down the headwall without using the rope when it's dry.

The headwall is a good place to put on a helmet. On July 5th, 2012, David Perlman sustained significant injury from rockfall while hiking from the Fixed Rope to the top of the Lower Saddle. On August 17th, 2004, a falling rock injured the leg of one of Exum's clients while he was near the lower end of the fixed rope.

A small landslide started near the Fixed Rope in 2022 and blew past guides sending debris directly over the rope. In 2023, a large rockfall event flew down the Fixed Rope's drainage early in the season when everything was super-saturated.

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***  Never travel directly west or northwest of the Fixed Rope during peak season. The area is full of very unstable rocks which are a serious danger to climbers below you. You're heading southwest.  ***

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The Fixed Rope
Rockfall Zone


Early-season snow is usually very slick & unstable below the Fixed Rope. Water undercuts snow forming weak snow bridges. A temporary auxiliary rope is sometimes used to help climbers navigate a snowy approach to the Fixed Rope.

Guides usually belay clients here so it's easy to get delayed behind other climbers. The guides often let unguided climbers pass when it's safe to do so. They're working and their clients are probably eager to get where they're going so you can extend the courtesy to them if you're not in a hurry. 

This is the only fixed rope in the park but there used to be some fixed ropes on the Owen-Spalding route during the early days of guided climbing.


Lower Saddle's headwall above the fixed rope


The first documented trip to the Lower Saddle was on July 29, 1872. Native Americans made it to the saddle way before then and they probably made many first ascents of the easier peaks in the Tetons.


Southern Aspect of the Grand Teton


Looking back

 
In 2023, the park installed a camera atop the saddle's North Buttress to monitor the Middle Teton Glacier and they dropped more than a few rocks in the process.

Many sloppy trails are encountered as you leave the Fixed Rope and head toward the saddle's SE corner. Climbers take different trails as the snow melts off the headwall. The best trail is usually the last one to burn off.




A water source is southeast of the saddle's most-eastern camping spot. It's about 50 feet from the Saddle's metal sign (see below). A short section of a garden hose helps direct water into your container. The water hose will occasionally collect a few particulates. Most people drink the water unfiltered including us but it's exposed to people and wildlife.
 

The saddle's SE corner

This water source can dry up late in the summer. Precipitation usually brings it back to life. 

Water does flow between between the Grand's Lower and Upper Saddles during the peak season as the snow melts off. Later in the season, the area drys out to some degree but water will be found after a rainstorm. Sometimes an unexpected trickle of water runs for much of the summer. It just depends upon the weather.


The rules


 The Middle Teton rising above the Lower Saddle


Camping at the saddle


It's worth acclimating to the elevation & the effort if you're not used to long approaches and high elevations. Camping overnight is one way to do that. If you do camp, consider selecting a location that's suited to your fitness level. Carrying a heavy pack all the way to the wind-blown Lower Saddle is a burden if you're not in excellent shape. You might be better off camping at a lower elevation and starting 30 minutes earlier the following day.


Saddle's Weather Station

It's a good idea to check the weather forecast & radar at the saddle if you have a smartphone. You can also check the Saddle's weather station data to see current temperatures and wind speeds. The weather data used to be updated every 15 minutes. In 2023, data was updated about every hour, backfilling the 15 minute increments with an hour's worth of data. That pattern continued into 2024, unfortunately. Sometimes the data is well over an hour behind schedule. The cause is not known.




Saddle Huts and Rest Stop


Do not count on using the 2 huts at the Lower Saddle for shelter. They're not public shelters. Sometimes they accommodate climbers during emergencies. The rangers & guides usually assemble their huts by mid-June and take them down by mid-September. It varies. The guides pretty much shut down operations the weekend following Labor Day. The last big trip for Exum Mountain Guides is usually with the Jackson Hole High School mountaineering club.

There's a 'rest stop' on the western side of the saddle that can be used for privacy but it's not an outhouse. You're required to pack human waste off the saddle. Disposable zip-lock Mylar bags are often used (Wag-Bags). In less traveled areas of the park you can bury waste 6-8 inches and 200' away from wetlands. Bags were available with a camping permit at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. It's unknown if that will continue. They're available at some stores within the park and in Jackson.
 
 
The rest stop
 
 
There are camping spots on the western slope of the saddle (and caves) so choose a location to relieve yourself -or expose yourself- carefully if you're not using the rest stop. Climbers are advised to pee on the western side of the saddle when possible to keep runoff from contaminating the water sources. Pissing near camping spots is not appreciated. 
 
Speaking of caves, keep in mind that the shallow caves on the saddle's western aspect do not provide protection from lightning and might increase your odds of being hit.

According to the CDC: "Small caves, overhangs, and wet stream beds are likely to be more dangerous than open areas." Also, people are usually zapped by ground currents and not direct hits in the Tetons.

The CEO of Jackson's hospital was once zapped at the Jackson Hole Airport. You're clearly not safe if you're outside in a thunderstorm. Almost everyone gets caught in a thunderstorm at some point in life. While the odds of a lightning strike hitting you are low, the odds certainly increase if you're high in the mountains with unstable weather. BTW: If it starts hailing, lightning is right around the corner.

If you're climbing to the Upper Saddle, the Enclosure, the Upper Exum Ridge or the Owen-Spalding route, you'll be heading for the Central Rib's "Needle".


Close-up view of the Black Dike below the Needle


The igneous Black Dike is made of diabase which is harder than the surrounding rock. The dikes seen on Mt. Moran and the Middle Teton are also diabase. On the Middle Teton, the diabase is softer than the surrounding granite and it forms a slot. On Mt. Moran, the diabase is harder than the gneiss and the dike sticks out from the face. Moran's relatively easy CMC route runs right by it.

The climbers' trail running up the north side of the saddle splits into many spurs. Choose any that head for the Needle. The scrambling begins after passing the Black Dike. Upper Exum & Owen-Spalding climbers take the same approach to the western side of the Needle.
 
Overview as seen from the Middle Teton
CLICK TO ENLARGE
View of the other side


Visit our respective webpages for information on the Owen-Spalding route or the Upper Exum route. They cover the approach to the summit from the Lower Saddle in detail.


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Most climbers are trying to access the Central Rib's bench from the Lower Saddle ("CR Bench" in photo). The most common ways to gain the Central Rib's Bench are via the Chockstone Chimney or the Briggs' Slab. 
 

Looking back toward the saddle


Overview - another look



 Winter Access to Garnet Canyon

 
 


https://www.google.com/maps/search/Bradley+%26amp;+Taggart+lakes/@43.7047182,-110.7643319,14z/data=!3m1!4b1
Winter access via skis
 
A skin track might be seen if there's no fresh snow covering it.
 
 
The interior Teton Park Rd (AKA: the TPR) is closed between November 1st & May 1st between the Taggart Lake Trailhead and Signal Mountain Lodge. There's a section of the Taggart Lake parking area that is set aside for overnight backcountry travelers during this time. Look for the signs. 
 
Most folks use skis with skins to access Garnet Canyon in the winter. The most common winter route runs across a frozen Bradley Lake and up Garnet Canyon along the southern side of Garnet Creek. You can find skin tracks on both sides of the creek, however. 
 
Remember to take extra water during the winter when sources are frozen or buried at higher elevations. Usually, Spalding Falls has a trickle of water under its icy exterior and the creek pokes through the snow in spots below 9000'. The American Alpine Club has a nice basic review of snow travel techniques for climbers if you're interested. Many others are online. Avalanche mitigation skills are needed in the spring. BT Avalanche Forecast
 
 

More closeup view of the winter approach near the trailhead


You'll have a couple of options for accessing Garnet Canyon after the Teton Park Road closes to vehicles at the end of October and before everything is covered in snow, or freezes over.
 
A fairly quick option involves biking up the Teton Park Road (or adjacent pathway) to the Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead. From there you can take that trail to the 1st junction along the traditional climbers' trail from Lupine Meadows. Biking is also a common option in the spring after the road is plowed. You can always hike the trails from the Taggart Lake trailhead but that's a long hike.
 
After the Teton Park Road opens to cars on May 1st, the Burned Wagon Gulch trail is often a good option into early June if the lower trail from Lupine Meadows still holds winter snow. 
 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/BoEKWtgJQAU?
On the approach to Garnet Canyon in early April - one variation


The northern-most drainage out of Garnet Canyon running down to Bradley Lake is a little cliffy with limited opportunities for skinning during the winter. It's usually avoided.

There's a slight ridgeline between Bradley & Taggart lakes that runs up Shadow Peak which can be used to access Garnet Canyon but it's not necessarily your best option (it can be a faster option). That route needs plenty of compacted stable snow on the NE slopes and you'll need to know the route otherwise you'll end up in some messy terrain (downfall, etc). Stick to the traditional skin track route if this is your first rodeo.
 
 

~ Local VHF Radio Frequencies (MHz) ~


For the most part, two-way radios are best used for communications between members of a climbing party. It's easy to lose sight of your alpine partners and/or lose the ability to clearly communicate while climbing. Assuming you don't mind schlepping them up the Grand, they may come in handy. Most climbers go without but plenty use them.
 
For winter skiers with a BCA radio: Channel 2.2: inter-group talk. Channel 2.1: Teton Pass Ambassadors skiers. Channel 9.11: TCSAR during rescues. More info here. 
 
If you're wondering where frontcountry bears are hanging out, tune in to the park's dispatch channel: 171.675.  They handle the radio traffic for bear jams.

According to a news release: "The park bolstered its radio program in 2023, enhancing communication capabilities across operations. The hiring and training of a new electronics technician strengthened the technical expertise of the team. Establishment of a permanent Signal Mountain tower, alongside utility integration, laid a foundation for improved coverage and reliability. Testing and development of encryption protocols underscored the commitment to secure communications, and separation of radio traffic between general operations and law enforcement and emergency medical services streamlined communication efficiency.

Some public safety communication channels may no longer be available as the agencies transition to digital encryption methods, and cellular technology. 
 
Listed below are the old radio channels. Many are still in use.



 
Control Tower: 118.075
JAC Ground: 124.550
JAC CTAF: 118.075
JAC UNICOM: 122.95 
 
 
Driggs Airport has no tower:
CTAF/UNICOM: 122.7
 
155.22, Tx/Rx Tone 100.0
151.1975, Tx/Rx Tone 127.3
 
Many agencies  use....
they can be found online
 
 
 
GTNP DIR: Tx/Rx 171.675
GTNP PRI: Tx 164.95 - Rx 171.675
GTNP SAR: Tx/Rx 172.425 Tone 123.0 
 
 
 
155.415
 
TC Fire
 
155.715
 
 
 
155.340 

 
~ Guide Services ~
 
AMGA: tx/rx 151.625 Tone – 151.4
JHMG: tx/rx 151.880 Tone – 151.4
 Exum : tx/rx 151.940 Tone – 151.4
 
 


~ Weather ~ 
 
NOAA Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NOAA Yellowstone Weather Radio: 162.45
Driggs, Idaho Weather Radio 162.450
Weather: 162.400 - 162.550 MHz 
(^^.025 increments: .400, .425, etc^^)


~ Frequency Ranges & Distress Ch.~ 
 
Aviation 118.000 - 136.975 MHz
Marine: 156 - 162.025 MHz
Marine Distress Channel: 156.8
Aviation Distress Channel: 121.5


Speaking of the airport....
UNMANNED AIRCRAFT
 
Launching, landing or operating an
unmanned aircraft, such as a drone, within
Grand Teton National Park is prohibited.
 
 

~ Teton Climbing Links ~
 
 
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is always being written, of course. Pass it along.

 
George Bell
  NOLS Thirty Days to Survival
 



~ Climbing Shops ~


...sells & rents gear
...clothes, packs, some gear
In Powderhorn Mall
By the Downtown Post Office
...mostly clothes, packs, hunting gear
...rents climbing & BC gear
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------------


Overview - Upper Exum
Overview - Owen-Spalding
Photos of Specific Route Features
Wyoming Whiskey Home Page
 
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The above photo was captured from the top of Table Mountain on the western side of the Tetons by Hayden Expedition photographer William H. Jackson in August of 1872. There's a fair amount of snow for August.


Trails surrounding the Grand Teton
Cascade Canyon approaches, etc
Click to Enlarge

The custom topographical map seen above was created on the USGS topo website

Trails along WY-ID border - access to GTNP, etc
Click to Enlarge

Trails west of Lower Saddle
Alaska Basin
GTNP Boundary is marked
Click to Enlarge
 

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Our climbing images may be used without permission or attribution for all not-for-profit educational purposes.  

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We would like to thank everyone who tolerated our photography, who climbed with us, and who help make this mountain more accessible to those who carry the dream to climb it.



Enjoy Safe Climbing