Showing posts with label Fast & Light on the Grand Teton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fast & Light on the Grand Teton. Show all posts

A Climber's Guide to the Grand Teton's Easiest Routes




~ Quick Weather Links ~


NWS Radar Jackson
 
Moose, WY Forecast GTNP 6510ft
(** often very different, so-so accuracy)
Recent Precip: Alta & Moose 
Pivotal - Northern Rockies 
SpotWx for 10K feet by the Grand 
(^pans the Grand's west side^)
Blitzortung Lightning Map

If the forecast looks unstable, examine the hourly forecast from the NWS and read the forecast discussion in addition to examining any other weather data of interest.

Forecast temps are temperatures expected in the shade. The forecast for wind gusts at the Lower Saddle are sometimes off by a factor of two or more due to the topography not being factored into the forecast. The forecast is good for about 6 hours. Precipitation can take several days to drain. Isolated showers may not appear in a forecast. 

Mountain-Forecast.com tries to make an algorithmic estimate for the Grand Teton's weather and it's often a good starting point. Like any forecast, it's a hit & miss affair. 


 Elev Δ between JHMR summit and Grand Teton = 3375 ft
Elev Δ between JHMR Summit & Teton Science School = 3431 ft


Teton Science School - @ 6969 ft 
GTNP, North of Kelly 

(loads slowly, click "show latest date")
USDA Snow & Water Map
Grand Targhee Snowfall (stn)
JHMR Snowfall (stn)
Surprise Meadow Snowfall (stn)
 
JHMR Weather & Snow Report
JHMR Grooming Map
Snow King Snow Report
Targhee Snow Report
JH Nordic Conditions
JH P&R XC Grooming Report
WYDOT Road Conditions

Turiano's Skiing Guides
 
Surprise Pinnacle 9770 ft ** Wind & Temp
Surprise Meadow  9580 ft ** Snow
↑** Winter Stations ↑
Just east of Grand @ 9770 ft




Interactive WYDOT Map with webcams, weather and conditions 
 
Highway Information
 


~ 2025 Notes ~



The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is closed for the season.
 

Backcountry camping permits can be picked up at the Moose Visitor Center. 
 
Autumn (the September equinox) starts on Sept 22 at 12:19 pm MDT.  
 
The Surprise Meadow & Surprise Pinnacle winter weather stations just east of the Grand Teton are up and running. Other BTAC stations.

None really knows what will happen with the weather and conditions as the fall season progresses but expect challenges. We had great weather & conditions in October after a messy September last year. It will be harder for ice to burn off the Owen-Spalding route because of the shorter days and changing sun angles but it happened last year and has in years past. 
 
Watch for wildlife on the roads.

Michelino Sunseri was found guilty of cutting a switchback in GTNP on his FKT run. They should just improve the old climbers' trail and let people use it.



 
If you can't afford the $10 but wish to attend, TCSAR has you covered - see details. This could be an interesting evening for storytelling. The TCSAR airship has been on at least two rescue missions in the park during the 1st week of September. 
 
The 11th Annual Wyoming Snow and Avalanche Workshop will be held on November 14-15, 2025, at the Center for the Arts in downtown Jackson. Other BTAC events.
 
A weekly podcast with local avalanche professionals that digs deeper into the current state of the snowpack happens on Friday afternoons or evenings starting in December and are shared that night (Spotify and aired on KHOL radio over the weekend). 
 
Teton Mountaineering and Teton Backcountry Rentals rent strap-on crampons if you need some for the day as we roll through the fall off-season. The usually don't rent crampons with long extension bars for large shoes so keep that in mind. We have more faith in crampons than shoe spikes to hold up in the mountains, and the crampon's front point/s give us more options when holds are small and icy; however, shoe spikes are often better than nothing. Choose the right type of crampon.
 
Our clocks switch from daylight savings time to standard time on Sun, Nov 2 at 2:00 am; gaining 1 hour of sleep. Winter (December solstice) starts on Dec 21 at 8:03 am MST.



~ Guided Prices for Private Parties ~
 


 
JHMG


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~




 
 ~ Lower Saddle Weather ~
Between Grand & Middle Teton
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
  
 
You can check a forecast from the Lower Saddle with a smartphone. We consider a Teton forecast to be valid for about 6 hours during the summer.

FYI: The Lower Saddle's weather station data was unavailable for the entire 2025 climbing season.

 
 
Lower Saddle Weather Station 
@ 11,600'
Temperatures
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
- usually mid-June to mid-Sept -

 
@11,600'
Wind Speed, Gust &
Direction from
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
  - usually mid-June to mid-Sept -
 

The MesoWest weather graphics are unavailable when the University of Utah is doing server maintenance. At that time, try the Teton Saddle weather page or find another upper-elevation weather station. The Saddle's station is offline during the spring, winter and fall. 

Comparing the saddle's forecast with actual temperatures at the saddle's weather station gives you a feel for forecast errors and helps with decision making. Forecast wind speeds are often off by a factor of 2 or more at the saddle due to the saddle's topography not being factored into a forecast. Forecast temperatures in the hourly forecast can easily be off by 10°F at any specific time.

 
~ More Live Weather ~
 


 
Northern Rockies Radar
Radar from Riverton, WY does a poor job of covering the Tetons. The Pocatello, ID radar is usually better suited to tracking weather headed for the Tetons. Inside Jackson Hole, the mountains can hide localized weather events.


30-day Mt Glory Temps
@ 10,059 ft 
(17.5 mi S-SW of the Grand Teton)
Teton Pass Weather at 8,432 ft  
MesoWest version↑
(& HERE) 
 
Surprise Pinnacle ** Wind & Temp
Surprise Meadow ** Snow
↑** Winter Stations ↑
Just east of Grand @ 9770 ft

  
Mt Glory Wind Speeds
@ 10,059 ft  


The Grand Teton probably got rained on if the next two weather stations show rain on the same day.



Precipitation @ 6466 ft
(7.2 miles SE of Grand Teton)
More Details
 
Precipitation  @ 6430 ft
(11.5 miles west of Grand)
Precip during the last 31 days
 
Precipitation data from MesoWest isn't always available for the Driggs, ID and Jackson, WY airport weather stations. If it's available, rain at those two stations also indicates that the Grand probably got precipitation during the summer. Summer showers can be highly localized. This NWS portal for the JH Airport often has precip data on a drop-down menu when MesoWest doesn't. The Idaho & Wyoming DOT travel maps show webcams along with road & weather conditions. If the roads are wet on both sides of the Tetons, then the Grand probably got precipitation.
 
FYI: In years past, the National Weather Service called into question the accuracy of the airport's weather data. Not every station is built and maintained to a high standard in the Tetons. Even the posted elevation data of a few stations is incorrect. It's not unusual for any weather station to go offline in the Tetons. Sometimes it's back online in 24 hours; sometimes it's a week, sometimes months.
 
 
  ~ Webcams ~ 



 
Stilson Parking Lot - JHMR cams
(Google Map of Hwy 22 & Hwy 390)
 
 

Snow King Mountain
(all SK Cams^ - sometimes offline)



  Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis


The ● (red dot) should be seen at the "LIVE" feed indicator. You may wish to change the resolution to HD if it doesn't default to that. The YouTube address for live feeds is sometimes changed by SeeJH. 


Cody Bowl JHMR



Dornan's Webcam inside GTNP at Moose
Focused on the Grand Teton

Grand Targhee Summit
Pans the west side of Grand Teton

  Climbers' Ranch Webcam GTNP
Often offline during off-season 

Google informs us that the location of the Climbers' Ranch has been searched for on Google Maps over 7 million times between 2017 & 2024. The webcam should be monetized on YouTube to help pay for a Starlink dish.

 
 ~ Jenny Lake ~
Climbing Rangers

  
 
~ Route Conditions ~
 
  
Follow the Rangers on Instagram

_____________________


Ranger Station Location

Ranger Station

307-739-3343
(Summer)

307–739–3399 General Info
 
 

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is where you'll find the park's climbing rangers. The station opens in early June and closes in early September (June 7 to Sept 7 in 2025). It's operating hours are from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM every day. We suggest calling to confirm operating dates and hours for any GTNP service. Dates and hours are subject to change and sometimes the park has incorrect information on their website.
 
The Jenny Lake Ranger Station can be an invaluable resource for information about mountaineering routes, conditions and backcountry hikes. The rangers don't always have the newest beta on conditions. Their Instagram channel might get feedback from climbers who have more recent beta. You could also try Mountain Project's Forums, or other social media accounts with a hashtag search. You can check the current snow cover via Copernicus if you're climbing during the shoulder seasons. 
 
The ranger station is the only place for climbers to get backcountry camping permits during the summer. The rangers also provide search & rescue operations for the park. Most are law enforcement officers.
 
The climbing rangers are supported by many generous donations from our community and outside of it. You can make donations through GTNP or through the non-profit Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
 
Besides GTNP's climbing rangers, the Teton County Search & Rescue volunteers and Yellowstone's SAR team operate in Teton County, WY. And there's the Teton County Idaho Search & Rescue team on the western side of the Tetons. Beginning in 2024, the JLCR started using the TCSAR helicopter and integrating personnel on some missions. Jackson's TCSAR gets millions of dollars in donations from the community. As with the JLCR, TCSAR does not charge for rescue services. Donations can be made online to the TCSAR Foundation.
 
Teton County SAR and their partners (NPS rangers, BTAC, BackcountryZero, etc) host events for backcountry users. You may find them useful.



~ Backcountry Camping ~
Grand Teton National Park


Backcountry Camping Permits
(Reservations & Info and has ALL ZONES)
 
(GTNP's General Information)
 
Backcountry Permits
(GTNP's General Information)

(Newer but no Garnet Canyon Zones in early 2025)

Safety in Bear Country
(No direct links from GTNP website, but still around)
 
(Old Ranger blog post)

BC Trip Planner & Map
(Old GTNP pdf- no Garnet Canyon camping) 
 
 (npsmaps.com)

 
 
One-third of all summer backcountry campsites and all group sites in Grand Teton National Park may be reserved in advance, online, beginning in early January. Certain bivi sites located outside of camping zones are also available for reservation.
 
First-come, first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer. Requests for those walk-in permits is often high. Permits can be issued one day before your trip begins and no sooner. You must arrive in person. Sometimes walk-in permits are not available for your destination. It might be that parties on multi-day trips snapped them up over the previous days. Or camping zones have reached their occupancy limit. It helps if you're first in line the day before your trip begins. You can try making a reservation two days before your trip - something new in 2024, according to Recreation.gov:
 
"Advance backcountry permit reservations open 8:00 a.m. MT on January 7th, 2025 for overnight stays May 1, 2025-October 31, 2025. Advanced reservations can be made up to two days before the start of a backcountry trip. If you have any questions about permits or require trip planning assistance, please contact a ranger at Grand Teton National Park (307) 739-3309."
 
Once the Jenny Lake Ranger Station opens in June, all permits for backcountry camping for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. This includes walk-in permits and those previously reserved online. Once the station closes in September, permits can be picked up at select visitor centers until they close for the winter.
 
Winter backcountry camping permits are usually free and available over the phone. The park's visitor centers are closed over the winter. Come May 1, all backcountry camping permits can be picked up at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center until the Jenny Lake Ranger Station reopens for the summer season in early June.
 
Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit to camp or bivouac; however, permits are not required for climbing. We suspect that climbing permits have been a target of discussion.   

 
~ Valley Camping ~

 
 
 Free Camping close to GTNP
On the BTNF
(Click to enlarge)


 
 
Free camping locations fill up quickly during the summer. You may get lucky. It's not always super crowded. A 5-day stay limit is in effect from May 1st through Labor Day on the Bridger-Teton's Jackson Ranger District and parts of the Blackrock Ranger District (Moran area). Call 307-739-5500 for updated details or visit their website. Interactive Forest Service Map.

As of 2025, no user permits are required to use the national forest for dispersed camping but that's likely to change in the future. The BTNF has a radio broadcast on 1710 AM to broadcast pertinent travel information but the broadcast is often worthless for travel updates, hazards, closures, etc. Camping information, regulations and locations can change from year-to-year.

Not all dirt roads are easy to navigate by a small car. Some roads need a 4x4 truck. Vehicles may not be able to turn around in tight spots at dead ends. Forest service roads open to the public for summer access as the roads dry out. The BTNF Motor Vehicle Use Maps have typical opening dates for each road (Link to all BTNF maps).

Most 3rd-party commercial apps and websites do a great job covering all of the valley camping options. Of course, paid lodging is available throughout the valley. And private fee-based campgrounds in the valley are available (mostly RVs). Our Jackson Hole Camping Guide also covers some camping options.

All the fee-based campgrounds on the Bridger-Teton National Forest are on a first come, first served basis. There are no reservations taken except for large group sites and cabins. Outside of the valley, there are fee-based Forest Service campgrounds in the Hoback River Canyon & Snake River Canyon. They are popular. Free dispersed car camping is also available in the Hoback Canyon.

There are a few first-come, first-served free camping spots along the Grassy Lake Road at the northern end of Grand Teton National Park inside the GTNP-managed John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. They are usually full. You'll also find the Flagg Ranch campground and their lodging in the same general area (the Headwaters). And just south of there is the BTNF's fee-based Sheffield Campground. More camping sites are on the west side of the Tetons in the CTNF (access via Idaho).

The campgrounds in GTNP require reservations. The AAC Climbers' Ranch in GTNP has rustic cabins with bunk beds. The ranch is south of the Lupine Meadows trailhead. You might get a last-minute reservation there but you might not get much sleep in a shared bunk cabin.

Please be thoughtful when using our free camping sites so that they remain accessible to those who prefer undeveloped camping options. The Forest Service spends a considerable amount of money cleaning up after visitors, managing sites, and repairing damaged resources. They will probably start charging fees to access forest resources in the coming years. If you wish to donate time or money to improve our forest resources, please visit the BTNF offices or contact the Friends of the Bridger-Teton non-profit.
 

 
~ Showers ~



Inside the park, showers are available at the Climbers' Ranch, Colter Bay Village, and the Signal Mountain Lodge RV Park. They started around $5 or so in 2025. The Headwaters/Flagg Ranch has free showers for tent campers staying at the northern reaches of the GTNP/JDR Parkway. In the Town of Jackson, the Teton County recreation center has a pool, showers, climbing wall, etc. You could always take a cool (or freezing) summer dip in a river, creek, lake or pond.



~ GTNP Emergency Dispatch ~


307-739-3301*
 

~ * 24/7 June 1 - Sept. 31 ~
~ * 6 a.m. - 10 p.m. Oct 1 - May 31 ~
* Please Confirm Hours/Dates
 
GTNP Emergency Procedures
For Climbers


911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID 


 ~ Smoke & Fire ~

AirNow Smoke Map
(^adjust settings)
AlertWest Fire Cameras
(S. Rim View toward Bondurant & Jackson)

 
~ Regional NWS Offices ~

(307) 857-3898
1-800-211-1448
nws.riverton@noaa.gov
12744 West U.S. Hwy 26
Riverton, WY 82501

 
NWS Office in Pocatello, ID
1945 Beechcraft Ave
Pocatello, ID 83204
208-233-0834
YouTube
 
NWS Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NWS Grant Village Yellowstone: 162.450
NWS Driggs, ID: 162.450

~ Aurora Forecast ~


Latest Aurora Forecast

- NOAA -
 
 
 
 
 
- UofA -

 
 
~ Night Sky ~
 

The darkest sky is N-NE of Jackson Lake
 
 

Moon Calendar 2025

New  - - - -  Full
29-Jan           13-Jan
27-Feb          12-Feb
29-Mar          14-Mar
27-Apr          12-Apr
26-May          12-May
25-Jun          11-Jun
24-Jul          10-Jul
23-Aug          9-Aug
21-Sep          7-Sep
21-Oct          6-Oct
19-Nov          5-Nov
19-Dec          4-Dec
 
 
 
GTNP Lost and Found 307.733.3350
 
 
Winter skiing access to Garnet Canyon from Taggart Lake
 
 
The above map shows Voluntary Closures around the high peaks to protect bighorn sheep during the winter. It also shows suggested travel lines for skiers to minimize impacts on bighorns if you need to cross a "closure" zone. The full-size map shows mandatory and voluntary winter closures for bighorns in the entire park. GTNP has other closures during the winter that are mandatory (see links below). 


 


Interactive WYDOT Map with webcams, weather and conditions 
 
Highway Information

 


~ Why Free-Solo ~ 
 

For those who can safely solo this mountain on a fast and light trip, it brings many advantages. It's faster. You can climb on any day that fits your schedule instead of someone else's. It's easier to make a round-trip in single day if you're soloing. You can go at your own pace. You can leave later in the day. You can travel further when you're carrying less weight. You'll feel stronger while climbing. You might recover more quickly. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit, gear and guide. Older, injured or physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or travel on time-lengthy trips. Stronger climbers may not have the time for multi-day climbing activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is often a safety advantage when the weather window is short, or a quick escape is necessary. It's unlikely that free-soloing climbers are delaying other climbers in a significant way and that helps keep all climbers moving in a timely manner. It's easier to pass other climbers when you're soloing so that you're not delayed. You might have a smaller environmental impact in the backcountry if you're just out for the day. You can enjoy some solitude. There's a freedom that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers. And it's a far more enjoyable experience for many.
 
To quote Anton Krupicka: "It’s about, of course, having fun, covering a wide variety of ground efficiently, emphasizing the movement and the activity."

Free-soloing has its inherent, objective dangers as does any activity but it's relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather and poor conditions. For a time, back in the old days, solo climbing was illegal in the park but the rule was often broken by climbers like John Gill who was soloing 5.10s in the Tetons. Most of the early climbers like Petzoldt & Exum soloed routes. As did many guides & rangers. Today is no different.
The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes and don't mind spending some money might be buying or renting a pair of climbing shoes. They will boost your confidence & safety on the rock. You don't need super sticky big wall climbing shoes for the Owen-Spalding or Upper Exum routes. Most approach shoes made for climbing work fine as do several trail running and mountain biking shoes. The wrong shoes will ruin a trip so if your clunky work boots keep your feet happy on 15-mile mountain hikes, you might prefer those over something else. Preferably boots with non-slip soles. Most Vibram soles work well. There are others. Choose wisely given the objective, your skill set and preferences. Of course, wearing a helmet doesn't hurt.
 
 
~ Miscellaneous ~

  
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is always being written on the web but it often disappears if left unattended.

 
Jimmy Chin
Googler: Noah Howell or Website
(^Sadly, website in poor shape)
George Gardner Scholarship Fund
George Bell
Alpinist Teton Women
Taylor Glenn


Miscellaneous Links



Bridger-Teton Avalanche Forecast
BTAC App
Avalanche Weather Guidance
NWS AVI & Snow Guide
NWS Probabilistic Snow Ice
BTAC Snowfall Data 24 hrs

USDA Snow & Water Map
Grand Targhee Snowfall (stn)
JHMR Snowfall (stn)
Surprise Meadow Snowfall (stn)
 
JHMR Weather & Snow Report
JHMR Grooming Map
Snow King Snow Report
Targhee Snow Report
JH Nordic Conditions
JH P&R XC Grooming Report
WYDOT Road Conditions

Turiano's Skiing Guides
Exum Mountain Guides
JH Mountain Guides
Teton Backcountry Guides

Mountain Riding Lab
World Championship Hill Climb
Snowmobile Maps - Trails

BTNF Winter Travel Maps
Winter  Maps Trails & XC Ski
Winter Wildlife Closures
Friends of BTNF Winter Links

American Avalanche Institute
JH Outdoor Leadership Inst
Teton Backcountry Alliance
(Teton Pass Free Shuttle)
WBM - Medical Training
BackcountryZero

Avalanche.org
Avi Paths on Teton Pass
WY State Trails Avi Paths
Cache and Granite Avi Paths

Idaho Alpine Club  Climbing Idaho
Teton Climbers’ Coalition
Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance
Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition
Tensleep Climbing
Cody's Wyoming Ice Festival
Lander's Intl Climbers' Festival
Southeast Wyoming Climbers Coalition


Teton Pass Webcams
Teton Pass Temps
Climbers' Ranch Webcam

JH Paragliding
Teton Handgliding
JH Free Flight Club
JH Kayak Club
JH Polo Club
JH RugbyJedediah Smith Wilderness
 



~ Water Resources ~

         
NOTE: The water resource links are being changed by the Feds, undergoing modernization with expected decommissioning of some features. Some graphs may not display correctly; some links may not work. Once they finish upgrading their online resources, we will do the same.
 

Water Temps


FYI: The above graphic has been using Pacific Time, not Mountain Time for the "latest" temp reading. Time.gov

Water temps at Jenny Lake might be available by calling the Jenny Lake Boating team. They have a water thermometer by the boat dock (webcam). Summer only. Climbers engaged in The Picnic (AKA the Grand Teton Triathlon) like to track water temps for their swim across Jenny Lake. A few climbers like to take a refreshing dip after their climb. A dirt road splits off of the Lupine Meadows Road immediately after passing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. It goes north to the Jenny Lake Boat Launch area. You can take a quick dip to cool off or clean up but it's not for swimming. 


Upper Snake River Basin
If Jackson Lake is really low, the western banks of the lake can be used to access some of the trailless bushwhacking areas north of Mt Moran. Bring bear spray and a mountain man sensibility.


~River Webcams~
 


 


 

Enjoy Safe Climbing

 

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