A Climber's Guide to the Grand Teton's Easiest Routes



 ~ Route Overviews ~
 
 
 
Upper Exum
 
 
Owen-Spalding
 
 
Approach & Info
 
 
 
~ Grand Teton Trip Reports ~




 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


2025 Notes



 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Teton Park Road is closed from November 1st until April 30th between the Taggart Lake Trailhead & Signal Mountain Lodge. The road is groomed for skiing, snowshoeing, and hiking from mid-December to mid-March. The Teton Park Road is open to biking from November 1 until it's snow covered. In the spring when the snow melts, you can bike all over the road until April 30. It opens to cars on May 1. BTW, while the Signal Mtn Lodge is closed, their bathrooms in the lobby area are open to the public during the winter (a caretaker is there too).

If you're headed up the Grand in November, it's best to bicycle from the Taggart Lake parking lot to the Burned Wagon Gulch trailhead and start your trip from there assuming the road is snow free. Starting on foot at Taggart will make for a very long slog. That's not recommended until the lakes freeze over and you can skimo up Garnet Canyon. This GTNP webpage may have a TPR/Taggart Lake webcam up and running for the winter season.

It's too early to tell what will happen with the weather come November but any temperatures above 30°F (shaded forecast temperature) at the Lower Saddle with calm wind and sunshine will provide fairly nice climbing weather for this time of year. You need to check the Saddle's Hourly Forecast to see forecast wind speeds and wind-chill temps, and you may wish to double the wind speeds since they are often off by a factor of 2 or more. Mountain-Forecast is another option — you often need to change the units, and the forecast is a hit & miss affair like any. They provide a SUMMIT forecast.
 
Besides the colder temps, the biggest challenge for a climb up the OS right now is often the conditions on the approach which are usually pretty slick, sometimes icy, with unconsolidated snow hiding the trail and covering foot traps.  Of course, you'll face a slower approach with those conditions. The actual climbing goes pretty quickly with crampons and ice tools to manage ice or snow-plugged holds. It's mostly snow underfoot. Some get by without the ice tools but they might speed things along in places like the Owen Chimney. And they increase the safety margin for soloing parties. We take disposable hand warmers, and more liquids than normal since access to water might be harder to come by.

Michelino Sunseri's sentencing for cutting a switchback on his FKT gets a last-minute twist.


Wed Oct 29, Tetoncam.com

The TetonCam shows the Exum Ridge and Glencoe Spire - more of the SW side than the Targhee webcam....

Grand Targhee Summit Webcam, Wed Oct 29th, 1st Ski Tracks



This cam pans Grand Teton

GTCR Webcam Wed Oct 29


The 11th Annual Wyoming Snow and Avalanche Workshop will be held on November 14-15, at Jackson's Center for the Arts. Better yet, opt for the free AAN on Dec 4th. You can always check out the WYSAW speakers on TCSAR's YouTube channel.




The 26th Annual Avalanche Awareness Night is on December 4 @ 5:00 pm - 9:00 pm at Jackson's Center for the Arts. BTW, the date for the Teton County Idaho SAR Avalanche Awareness Night hasn't been set but they say it will happen in early 2026.

For more info on events: BTAC, BackcountryZero, TCSAR, TCISAR.
 

~ Quick Weather Links ~


JH Mountain Resort Weather @ 10,400' 
 Elev Δ between JHMR summit and Grand Teton = 3375 ft
 

(change units to °F) 
(** often very different, so-so accuracy)
Moose, WY Forecast GTNP 6510ft
Togwotee Pass Forecast Cont. Divide 9500 ft

 


 
Northern Rockies Radar
Radar from Riverton, WY does a poor job of covering the Tetons. The Pocatello, ID radar is usually better suited to tracking weather headed for the Tetons. Inside Jackson Hole, the mountains can hide localized weather events.


30-day Mt Glory Temps
@ 10,059 ft 
(17.5 mi S-SW of the Grand Teton)


Mt Glory Wind Speeds
@ 10,059 ft  


The Grand Teton probably precipitation on if the next two weather stations show precipitation on the same day.



Precipitation @ 6466 ft
(7.2 miles SE of Grand Teton)
More Details
 
Precipitation  @ 6430 ft
(11.5 miles west of Grand)
Precip during the last 31 days
 
Precipitation data from MesoWest isn't always available for the Driggs, ID and Jackson, WY airport weather stations. If it's available, precipitation at those two stations also indicates that the Grand probably got precipitation during the summer. Summer showers can be highly localized. This NWS portal for the JH Airport often has precip data on a drop-down menu when MesoWest doesn't. The Idaho & Wyoming DOT travel maps show webcams along with road & weather conditions. If the roads are wet on both sides of the Tetons, then the Grand probably got precipitation.
 
FYI: In years past, the National Weather Service called into question the accuracy of the airport's weather data. Not every station is built and maintained to a high standard in the Tetons. Even the posted elevation data of a few stations is incorrect. It's not unusual for any weather station to go offline in the Tetons. Sometimes it's back online in 24 hours; sometimes it's a week, sometimes months.
 
 
  ~ Streaming Webcams ~ 

 
 

Snow King Mountain
(all SK Cams^ - sometimes offline)



  Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis


The ● (red dot) should be seen at the "LIVE" feed indicator. You may wish to change the resolution to HD if it doesn't default to that. The YouTube address for live feeds is sometimes changed by SeeJH. 




Dornan's Webcam inside GTNP at Moose
Focused on the Grand Teton

 ~ Jenny Lake ~
Climbing Rangers

   
~ Backcountry Conditions ~
 
  
Follow the Rangers on Instagram
(rarely updated)

_____________________


Ranger Station Location

Ranger Station

307-739-3343
(Summer)

307–739–3399 General Info
 
 

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is where you'll find the park's climbing rangers. The station opens in early June and closes in early September (June 7 to Sept 7 in 2025). It's operating hours are from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM every day. We suggest calling to confirm operating dates and hours for any GTNP service. Dates and hours are subject to change and sometimes the park has incorrect information on their website.
 
The Jenny Lake Ranger Station can be an invaluable resource for information about mountaineering routes, conditions and backcountry hikes. The rangers don't always have the newest beta on conditions. Their Instagram channel might get feedback from climbers who have more recent beta. You could also try Mountain Project's Forums, or other social media accounts with a hashtag search. You can check the current snow cover via Copernicus if you're climbing during the shoulder seasons. 
 
The ranger station is the only place for climbers to get backcountry camping permits during the summer. The rangers also provide search & rescue operations for the park. Most are law enforcement officers.
 
The climbing rangers are supported by many generous donations from our community and outside of it. You can make donations through GTNP or through the non-profit Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
 
Besides GTNP's climbing rangers, the Teton County Search & Rescue volunteers and Yellowstone's SAR team operate in Teton County, WY. And there's the Teton County Idaho Search & Rescue team on the western side of the Tetons. Beginning in 2024, the JLCR started using the TCSAR helicopter and integrating personnel on some missions. Jackson's TCSAR gets millions of dollars in donations from the community. As with the JLCR, TCSAR does not charge for rescue services. Donations can be made online to the TCSAR Foundation.
 
Teton County SAR and their partners (NPS rangers, BTAC, BackcountryZero, etc) host events for backcountry users. You may find them useful.


~ Backcountry Camping ~
Grand Teton National Park


Backcountry Camping Permits
(Reservations & Info and has ALL ZONES)
 
(GTNP's General Information)
 
Backcountry Permits
(GTNP's General Information)

(Newer but no Garnet Canyon Zones in early 2025)

Safety in Bear Country
(No direct links from GTNP website, but still around)
 
(Old Ranger blog post)

BC Trip Planner & Map
(Old GTNP pdf- no Garnet Canyon camping) 
 
 (npsmaps.com)

 
 
One-third of all summer backcountry campsites and all group sites in Grand Teton National Park may be reserved in advance, online, beginning in early January. Certain bivi sites located outside of camping zones are also available for reservation.
 
First-come, first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer. Requests for those walk-in permits is often high. Permits can be issued one day before your trip begins and no sooner. You must arrive in person. Sometimes walk-in permits are not available for your destination. It might be that parties on multi-day trips snapped them up over the previous days. Or camping zones have reached their occupancy limit. It helps if you're first in line the day before your trip begins. You can try making a reservation two days before your trip - something new in 2024, according to Recreation.gov:
 
"Advance backcountry permit reservations open 8:00 a.m. MT on January 7th, 2025 for overnight stays May 1, 2025-October 31, 2025. Advanced reservations can be made up to two days before the start of a backcountry trip. If you have any questions about permits or require trip planning assistance, please contact a ranger at Grand Teton National Park (307) 739-3309."
 
Once the Jenny Lake Ranger Station opens in June, all permits for backcountry camping for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. This includes walk-in permits and those previously reserved online. Once the station closes in September, permits can be picked up at select visitor centers until they close for the winter.
 
Winter backcountry camping permits are usually free and available over the phone. The park's visitor centers are closed over the winter. Come May 1, all backcountry camping permits can be picked up at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center until the Jenny Lake Ranger Station reopens for the summer season in early June.
 
Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit to camp or bivouac; however, permits are not required for climbing. We suspect that climbing permits have been a target of discussion.   

 
~ GTNP Emergency Dispatch ~


307-739-3301*
 

~ * 24/7 June 1 - Sept. 31 ~
~ * 6 a.m. - 10 p.m. Oct 1 - May 31 ~
* Please Confirm Hours/Dates
 
GTNP Emergency Procedures
For Climbers


911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID 


 
~ Regional NWS Offices ~

(307) 857-3898
1-800-211-1448
nws.riverton@noaa.gov
12744 West U.S. Hwy 26
Riverton, WY 82501

 
NWS Office in Pocatello, ID
1945 Beechcraft Ave
Pocatello, ID 83204
208-233-0834
YouTube
 
NWS Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NWS Grant Village Yellowstone: 162.450
NWS Driggs, ID: 162.450

~ Aurora Forecast ~


Latest Aurora Forecast

- NOAA -
 
 
 
 
 
- UofA -

 
 
~ Night Sky ~
 

The darkest sky is N-NE of Jackson Lake
 
 

Moon Calendar 2025

New  - - - -  Full
29-Jan           13-Jan
27-Feb          12-Feb
29-Mar          14-Mar
27-Apr          12-Apr
26-May          12-May
25-Jun          11-Jun
24-Jul          10-Jul
23-Aug          9-Aug
21-Sep          7-Sep
21-Oct          6-Oct
19-Nov          5-Nov
19-Dec          4-Dec
 
 
 
GTNP Lost and Found 307.733.3350
 


~ Why Free-Solo ~ 
 

For those who can safely solo this mountain on a fast and light trip, it brings many advantages. It's faster. You can climb on any day that fits your schedule instead of someone else's. It's easier to make a round-trip in single day if you're soloing. You can go at your own pace. You can leave later in the day. You can travel further when you're carrying less weight. You'll feel stronger while climbing. You might recover more quickly. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit, gear and guide. Older, injured or physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or travel on time-lengthy trips. Stronger climbers may not have the time for multi-day climbing activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is often a safety advantage when the weather window is short, or a quick escape is necessary. It's unlikely that free-soloing climbers are delaying other climbers in a significant way and that helps keep all climbers moving in a timely manner. It's easier to pass other climbers when you're soloing so that you're not delayed. You might have a smaller environmental impact in the backcountry if you're just out for the day. You can enjoy some solitude. There's a freedom that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers. And it's a far more enjoyable experience for many.
 
To quote Anton Krupicka: "It’s about, of course, having fun, covering a wide variety of ground efficiently, emphasizing the movement and the activity."

Free-soloing has its inherent, objective dangers as does any activity but it's relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather and poor conditions. For a time, back in the old days, solo climbing was illegal in the park but the rule was often broken by climbers like John Gill who was soloing 5.10s in the Tetons. Many climbers, guides and rangers soloed routes in the early days of Teton climbing. Today is no different.
The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes and don't mind spending some money might be buying or renting a pair of climbing shoes. They will boost your confidence & safety on the rock. You don't need super sticky big wall climbing shoes for the Owen-Spalding or Upper Exum routes. Most approach shoes made for climbing work fine as do several trail running and mountain biking shoes. The wrong shoes will ruin a trip so if your clunky work boots keep your feet happy on 15-mile mountain hikes, you might prefer those over something else. Preferably boots with non-slip soles. Most Vibram soles work well. There are others. Choose wisely given the objective, your skill set and preferences. Of course, wearing a helmet doesn't hurt.
 
 
~ Miscellaneous ~

  
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is always being written on the web but it often disappears if left unattended.

 
Jimmy Chin
Googler: Noah Howell or Website
(^Sadly, website in poor shape)
George Gardner Scholarship Fund
George Bell
Alpinist Teton Women
Taylor Glenn


Miscellaneous Links



Bridger-Teton Avalanche Forecast
BTAC App
Avalanche Weather Guidance
NWS AVI & Snow Guide
NWS Probabilistic Snow Ice
BTAC Snowfall Data 24 hrs

USDA Snow & Water Map
Grand Targhee Snowfall (stn)
JHMR Snowfall (stn)
Surprise Meadow Snowfall (stn)
 
JHMR Weather & Snow Report
JHMR Grooming Map
Snow King Snow Report
Targhee Snow Report
JH Nordic Conditions
JH P&R XC Grooming Report
WYDOT Road Conditions

Turiano's Skiing Guides
Exum Mountain Guides
JH Mountain Guides
Teton Backcountry Guides

Mountain Riding Lab
World Championship Hill Climb
Snowmobile Maps - Trails

BTNF Winter Travel Maps
Winter  Maps Trails & XC Ski
Winter Wildlife Closures
Friends of BTNF Winter Links

American Avalanche Institute
JH Outdoor Leadership Inst
Teton Backcountry Alliance
(Teton Pass Free Shuttle)
WBM - Medical Training
BackcountryZero

Avalanche.org
Avi Paths on Teton Pass
WY State Trails Avi Paths
Cache and Granite Avi Paths

Idaho Alpine Club  Climbing Idaho
Teton Climbers’ Coalition
Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance
Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition
Tensleep Climbing
Cody's Wyoming Ice Festival
Lander's Intl Climbers' Festival
Southeast Wyoming Climbers Coalition


Teton Pass Webcams
Teton Pass Temps
Climbers' Ranch Webcam

JH Paragliding
JH Free Flight Club
JH Kayak Club
JH Polo Club
JH RugbyJedediah Smith Wilderness
 

Build Graph
Did You Feel It? Report It


~ Water Resources ~

         
NOTE: The water resource links are being changed by the Feds, undergoing modernization with expected decommissioning of some features. Some graphs may not display correctly; some links may not work. Once they finish upgrading their online resources, we will do the same.
 

Water Temps


FYI: The above graphic has been using Pacific Time, not Mountain Time for the "latest" temp reading. Time.gov

Water temps at Jenny Lake might be available by calling the Jenny Lake Boating team. They have a water thermometer by the boat dock (webcam). Summer only. Climbers engaged in The Picnic (AKA the Grand Teton Triathlon) like to track water temps for their swim across Jenny Lake. A few climbers like to take a refreshing dip after their climb. A dirt road splits off of the Lupine Meadows Road immediately after passing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. It goes north to the Jenny Lake Boat Launch area. You can take a quick dip to cool off or clean up but it's not for swimming. 


Upper Snake River Basin
If Jackson Lake is really low, the western banks of the lake can be used to access some of the trailless bushwhacking areas north of Mt Moran. Bring bear spray and a mountain man sensibility.


~River Webcams~
 


 


 

Enjoy Safe Climbing

 

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