A Climber's Guide to the Grand Teton






The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is open every day from June 7 to Sept 7, 8:00 am – 5:00 pm (operating dates in GTNP). They post updates on conditions to Instagram and they covered the Upper Exum and OS on June 9th. Rangers are scheduled to be up at the saddle as we roll into July. And, hopefully, fixing the weather station.

The Lower Saddle's Forecast

The Upper Exum is in good shape. The Owen-Spalding still has some patches of ice and snow. It's fine for climbing for roped parties and experienced soloing parties. The approach still has a few snow hazards as of the 29th. Overall, there's much more dry rock than snow or ice on the OS and approach.

Owen-Spalding Images from June 29, 2025:

 

2nd Entrance to the Double Chimney


Climbers in Double Chimney


Double Chimney

Waiting on climbers in the DC


Leaving DC, heading for Owen Chimney

Owen Chimney


Catwalk


Sargent's Hidden Exit


Slabby Wall


Snow crossing just below summit



Summit Views




 Richard at the summit after soloing in running shoes

 
Snow Cover as of June 30th, 2025


Lower Saddle & Middle Teton Glacier 

Longest snow crossing

Snow crossing at the top of the switchbacks by Spalding Falls

Spalding Falls as seen from the Meadows

 
According to TCSAR, there were 10 climbing related rescues in 2024. Each of Garnet Canyon's two forks saw a rescue and one rescue was in the main canyon; one rescue was on the Grand's North Face, Middle Teton climbers were involved in five rescues, one rescue was on the Grand's Exum Ridge, and one rescue was on Teepe Pillar. Few were covered in the media. The rescue on the Exum Ridge is a topic of BackcountryZero's "Fine Line" podcast. The next episode covers the North Face rescue. Safe travels!

 Upcoming BackcountryZero events and Teton County SAR events.
 
The Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch season runs from June 7, 2025 - September 14, 2025.

Summer wildfire season started early: GOES Sat Images, NOAA's smoke map, Wildfire.gov's Fire Map, Inciweb fire listings, Wyoming's interactive Fire & Air Quality map. NOAA's Smoke Forecasting System resources. AirNow's air quality for Jackson. And there's the nice Windy.com resource.


Other Summer Stuff
 

Snow King puts on their annual fireworks show on the 4th (10pm). The JHMR's 4th of July events include fireworks and concerts on the 3rd and 4th. The Teton Balloon Rally runs  July 3rd to 6th in Driggs: The Deadlocks play on July 5th.  More events in the Hole.

The best mountain running race in Jackson Hole is the JHMR's 2025 Rendezvous Mountain Hill Climb which will be on Saturday, August 2, 2025. It's a nice testing ground for FKT runners on the Grand. It's mostly single track by the ski slopes, with a short section of sketchy terrain. 

If you want to get in some uphill training miles without the downhill abuse, the JHMR's Bridger Gondola (not the tram) has free downhill rides for runners/hikers: June 8 - Sept 7, Sunday - Thursday, 5pm to 9pm (last ride down at 9pm - verify upon arrival). They also serve food at The Deck. Downhill tram rides were free in the past, not sure if that still holds true but we assume so. Ask first. The Tram STOPS running at 5:30pm.

After disappearing last year, the Snow King Hill Climb is returning on July 27. Check with the Teton Trail Runners or Teton County/Jackson Parks and Recreation for more info. The 45th Cache Creek to Game Creek Trail Run hosted by Teton Mountaineering will happen the day before the Snow King Hill Climb on Saturday, July 26 (more info here). 

The annual LOTOJA Classic is back in Jackson for the 43rd year on Sept 6. It's America's best and longest one-day USAC-sanctioned 200-mile bicycle race in the country. It ends at Teton Village.

The Teton Village Association & the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort are again hosting free concerts this summer. As is the Center for the Arts in Jackson. On the western side of the Tetons, Driggs, ID is back with their free summer music series and Victor, ID has its Music on Main concerts. The 35th annual 2025 Targhee Bluegrass Festival is back at Grand Targhee. Jackson's KHOL radio covered some additional concerts. They missed some like Pinedale's Soundcheck lineup & Lander's music at City Park (free camping at the park). And according to BandsInTown.com, even little ol' Dubois has stuff going on.

The Teton Climbers’ Coalition hosts their weekly bouldering series called the Town Pump throughout the summer. The Bighorn's Ten Sleep Climber's Festival is officially set for June 27th-29th. Ten Sleep Brewing Co. Lander's 32nd International Climber's Festival is July 10-13, In case you're missing winter, the 2026 WY Ice Festival is Jan 1-4, in Cody.


Private guided climbing prices for 2025:

 
JHMG


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 
Mt Glory Temps
@ 10,059 ft by Teton Pass
Webcams - Glory Peak
Surprise Pinnacle ** Wind & Temp
Surprise Meadow ** Snow
↑** Winter Stations ↑
Just east of Grand @ 9770 ft
JHMR Summit @ 10,400 ft


 
 ~ Lower Saddle Weather ~
Between Grand & Middle Teton
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
  
 
You can check a forecast from the Lower Saddle with a smart phone. We consider a Teton forecast to be valid for about 6 hours during the summer.

FYI: The Lower Saddle weather station had some programming and modem issues rolling into the 2025 climbing season. 

 
 
Lower Saddle Weather Station 
@ 11,600'
Temperatures
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
- usually mid-June to mid-Sept -

 
@11,600'
Wind Speed, Gust &
Direction from
~ SUMMER ONLY  ~
  - usually mid-June to mid-Sept -
 

The MesoWest weather graphics are unavailable when the University of Utah is doing server maintenance. At that time, try the Teton Saddle weather page or find another upper-elevation weather station. The Saddle's station is offline during the spring, winter and fall. 

Comparing the saddle's forecast with actual temperatures at the saddle's weather station gives you a feel for forecast errors and helps with decision making. Forecast wind speeds are often off by a factor of 2 or more at the saddle due to the saddle's topography not being factored into a forecast. Forecast temperatures in the hourly forecast can easily be off by 10°F at any specific time.

 
Lower Saddle Forecast for 11,600ft

   
 
(summer only)

ID Forecast Discussion
(It's wise to read both, sometimes even entertaining)


Moon Calendar 2025

New  - - - -  Full
29-Jan           13-Jan
27-Feb          12-Feb
29-Mar          14-Mar
27-Apr          12-Apr
26-May          12-May
25-Jun          11-Jun
24-Jul          10-Jul
23-Aug          9-Aug
21-Sep          7-Sep
21-Oct          6-Oct
19-Nov          5-Nov
19-Dec          4-Dec


Tonight's Aurora Forecast
 
 

~ More Live Weather ~
 


 
Northern Rockies Radar
Radar from Riverton, WY does a poor job of covering the Tetons. The Pocatello, ID radar is usually better suited to tracking weather headed for the Tetons. Inside Jackson Hole, the mountains can hide localized weather events.



 JH Airport Temps
(10 miles S-SE of Grand Teton)
In years past, the National Weather Service called into question the accuracy of the airport's weather data. The airport has upgraded much of its infrastructure so maybe the station has been upgraded along with the buildings. It's not unusual for any weather station to go offline in the Tetons. Sometimes it's back online in 24 hours; sometimes it's a week or more.

30-day Mt Glory Temps
@ 10,059 ft 
(17.5 mi S-SW of the Grand Teton)
 
Mt Glory Wind Speeds
@ 10,059 ft  


The Grand Teton probably got rained on if the next two weather stations show rain on the same day.


Precipitation @ 6466 ft
(7.2 miles SE of Grand Teton)
More Details
 
Precipitation  @ 6430 ft
(11.5 miles west of Grand)
Precip during the last 31 days
 
Precipitation data isn't always available for the Driggs, ID and Jackson, WY airport weather stations. If it's available, rain at those two stations also indicates that the Grand probably got precipitation during the summer. Summer showers can be highly localized. This NWS portal for the JH Airport often has precip data on a drop-down menu when MesoWest doesn't.
 
 
  ~ Webcams ~ 



 
Stilson Parking Lot - JHMR cams
(Google Map of Hwy 22 & Hwy 390)
 
 

Snow King Mountain
(all SK Cams^ - sometimes offline)



  Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis


Spring Creek Ranch Webcam

The ● (red dot) should be seen at the "LIVE" feed indicator. You may wish to change the resolution to HD if it doesn't default to that. The YouTube address for live feeds is sometimes changed by SeeJH. 



WY Balloon Co
Pans JH Valley, zooms GT

 

Cody Bowl JHMR



Dornan's Webcam inside GTNP at Moose
Focused on the Grand Teton

Grand Targhee Summit
Pans the west side of Grand Teton

  Climbers' Ranch Webcam GTNP
Often offline during off-season 

Google informs us that the location of the Climbers' Ranch has been searched for on Google Maps over 7 million times between 2017 & 2024. The webcam should be monetized on YouTube to help pay for a Starlink dish.

 
 ~ Jenny Lake ~
Climbing Rangers

  
 
~ Route Conditions ~
 
  
Follow the Rangers on Instagram

_____________________


Ranger Station Location

Ranger Station

307-739-3343
(Summer)

307–739–3399 General Info
 
 

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is where you'll find the park's climbing rangers. The station opens in early June and closes in early September (June 7 to Sept 7 in 2025). It's operating hours are from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM every day. We suggest calling to confirm operating dates and hours for any GTNP service. Dates and hours are subject to change and sometimes the park has incorrect information on their website.
 
The Jenny Lake Ranger Station can be an invaluable resource for information about mountaineering routes, conditions and backcountry hikes. The rangers don't always have the newest beta on conditions. Their Instagram feed gets feedback from climbers who may have more recent beta. You could also try Mountain Project's Forums, or other social media accounts with a hashtag search. The ranger station is the only place for climbers to get backcountry camping permits during the summer. The rangers also provide search & rescue operations for the park. Most are law enforcement officers.
 
The climbing rangers are supported by many generous donations from our community and outside of it. You can make donations through GTNP or through the non-profit Grand Teton National Park Foundation.
 
Besides GTNP's climbing rangers, the Teton County Search & Rescue volunteers and Yellowstone's SAR team operate in Teton County, WY. And there's the Teton County Idaho Search & Rescue team on the western side of the Tetons. Beginning in 2024, the JLCR started using the TCSAR helicopter and integrating personnel on some missions. Jackson's TCSAR gets millions of dollars in donations from the community. As with the JLCR, TCSAR does not charge for rescue services. Donations can be made online to the TCSAR Foundation.
 
Teton County SAR and their partners (NPS rangers, BTAC, BackcountryZero, etc) host events for backcountry users. You may find them useful.



~ Backcountry Camping ~
Grand Teton National Park


Backcountry Camping Permits
(Reservations & Info and has ALL ZONES)
 
(GTNP's General Information)
 
Backcountry Permits
(GTNP's General Information)

(Newer but no Garnet Canyon Zones in early 2025)

Safety in Bear Country
(No direct links from GTNP website, but still around)
 
(Old Ranger blog post)

BC Trip Planner & Map
(Old GTNP pdf- no Garnet Canyon camping) 
 
 (npsmaps.com)

 
 
One-third of all summer backcountry campsites and all group sites in Grand Teton National Park may be reserved in advance, online, beginning in early January. Certain bivi sites located outside of camping zones are also available for reservation.
 
First-come, first-served, walk-in permits are available during the summer. Requests for those walk-in permits is often high. Permits can be issued one day before your trip begins and no sooner. You must arrive in person. Sometimes walk-in permits are not available for your destination. It might be that parties on multi-day trips snapped them up over the previous days. Or camping zones have reached their occupancy limit. It helps if you're first in line the day before your trip begins. You can try making a reservation two days before your trip - something new in 2024, according to Recreation.gov:
 
"Advance backcountry permit reservations open 8:00 a.m. MT on January 7th, 2025 for overnight stays May 1, 2025-October 31, 2025. Advanced reservations can be made up to two days before the start of a backcountry trip. If you have any questions about permits or require trip planning assistance, please contact a ranger at Grand Teton National Park (307) 739-3309."
 
Once the Jenny Lake Ranger Station opens in June, all permits for backcountry camping for climbers must be picked up at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. This includes walk-in permits and those previously reserved online. Once the station closes in September, permits can be picked up at select visitor centers until they close for the winter.
 
Winter backcountry camping permits are usually free and available over the phone. The park's visitor centers are closed over the winter. Come May 1, all backcountry camping permits can be picked up at the Craig Thomas Discovery & Visitor Center until the Jenny Lake Ranger Station reopens for the summer season in early June.
 
Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit to camp or bivouac; however, permits are not required for climbing. We suspect that climbing permits have been a target of discussion.   
 


~ GTNP Emergency Dispatch ~


307-739-3301*
 

~ * 24/7 June 1 - Sept. 31 ~
~ * 6 a.m. - 10 p.m. Oct 1 - May 31 ~
* Please Confirm Hours/Dates
 
GTNP Emergency Procedures
For Climbers


911 works for texting in Teton County, WY & ID 


 
~ Regional NWS Offices ~

(307) 857-3898
1-800-211-1448
nws.riverton@noaa.gov
12744 West U.S. Hwy 26
Riverton, WY 82501

 
NWS Office in Pocatello, ID
1945 Beechcraft Ave
Pocatello, ID 83204
208-233-0834
YouTube
 
NWS Jackson Weather Radio: 162.525
NWS Grant Village Yellowstone: 162.450
NWS Driggs, ID: 162.450

~ Aurora Forecast ~


Latest Aurora Forecast

- NOAA -
 
 
 
 
 
- UofA -

 
 
~ Night Sky ~
 

The darkest sky is N-NE of Jackson Lake
 
 

 
GTNP Lost and Found 307.733.3350
 
 
Winter skiing access to Garnet Canyon from Taggart Lake
 
 
The above map shows Voluntary Closures around the high peaks to protect bighorn sheep during the winter. It also shows suggested travel lines for skiers to minimize impacts on bighorns if you need to cross a "closure" zone. The full-size map shows mandatory and voluntary winter closures for bighorns in the entire park. GTNP has other closures during the winter that are mandatory (see links below).


~ Why free-solo ~ 
 

For those who can safely solo this mountain on a fast and light trip, it brings many advantages. It's faster. You can climb on any day that fits your schedule instead of someone else's. It's easier to make a round-trip in single day if you're soloing. You can go at your own pace. You can leave later in the day. You can travel further when you're carrying less weight. You'll feel stronger while climbing. You might recover more quickly. You can focus on the rock and not on the mechanics of roped climbing. You can skip the expensive camping permit, gear and guide. Older, injured or physically weaker climbers may not be able to carry gear or travel on time-lengthy trips. Stronger climbers may not have the time for multi-day climbing activities. You'll move faster then protected climbers and that is often a safety advantage when the weather window is short, or a quick escape is necessary. It's unlikely that free-soloing climbers are delaying other climbers in a significant way and that helps keep all climbers moving in a timely manner. It's easier to pass other climbers when you're soloing so that you're not delayed. You might have a smaller environmental impact in the backcountry if you're just out for the day. You can enjoy some solitude. There's a freedom that you can't get from being tied to the mountain or other climbers. And it's a far more enjoyable experience for many.
 
To quote Anton Krupicka: "It’s about, of course, having fun, covering a wide variety of ground efficiently, emphasizing the movement and the activity."

Free-soloing has its inherent, objective dangers as does any activity but it's relativity safe if you're climbing within your comfort zone and taking obvious precautions like avoiding bad weather and poor conditions. For a time, back in the old days, solo climbing was illegal in the park but the rule was often broken.
The best investment you can make if you wish to solo these routes and don't mind spending some money might be buying or renting a pair of climbing shoes. They will boost your confidence & safety on the rock. You don't need super sticky big wall climbing shoes for the Owen-Spalding or Upper Exum routes. Most approach shoes made for climbing work fine as do several trail running and mountain biking shoes. The wrong shoes will ruin a trip so if your clunky work boots keep your feet happy on 15-mile mountain hikes, you might prefer those over something else. Choose wisely given the objective, your skill set and preferences. Of course, wearing a helmet doesn't hurt.
 
 
 
~ Valley Camping ~
 
 
 Free Camping close to GTNP
On the BTNF
(Click to enlarge)

Moran Vista and Blackrock Meadows have fees (~$10/nt)

 
 
Free camping locations fill up quickly during the summer. You may get lucky. It's not always super crowded. A 5-day stay limit is in effect from May 1st through Labor Day on the Bridger-Teton's Jackson Ranger District and parts of the Blackrock Ranger District (Moran area). Call 307-739-5500 for updated details or visit their website. Interactive Forest Service Map.

As of winter 2025, no user permits are required to use the national forest for dispersed camping but that may change. The BTNF has a radio broadcast on 1710 AM to broadcast pertinent travel information but the broadcast is often worthless for travel updates, hazards, closures, etc. Camping information, regulations and locations can change from year-to-year.

Not all dirt roads are easy to navigate by a small car. Some roads need a 4x4 truck. Vehicles may not be able to turn around in tight spots at dead ends. Forest service roads open to the public for summer access as the roads dry out, dates vary yearly.

Most 3rd-party commercial apps and websites do a great job covering all of the valley camping options. Of course, paid lodging is available throughout the valley. And private fee-based campgrounds in the valley are available (mostly RVs). Our Jackson Hole Camping Guide also covers some camping options.

All the fee-based campgrounds on the Bridger-Teton National Forest are on a first come, first served basis. There are no reservations taken except for large group sites and cabins. Outside of the valley, there are fee-based Forest Service campgrounds in the Hoback River Canyon & Snake River Canyon. They are popular. Free dispersed car camping is also available in the Hoback Canyon.

There are a few first-come, first-served free camping spots along the Grassy Lake Road at the northern end of Grand Teton National Park inside the GTNP-managed John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway. They are usually full. You'll also find the Flagg Ranch campground and their lodging in the same general area (the Headwaters). And just south of there is the BTNF's fee-based Sheffield Campground. More camping sites are on the west side of the Tetons in the CTNF (access via Idaho).

The campgrounds in GTNP require reservations. The AAC Climbers' Ranch in GTNP has rustic cabins with bunk beds. The ranch is south of the Lupine Meadows trailhead. You might get a last-minute reservation there but you might not get much sleep in a shared bunk cabin.

Please be thoughtful when using our free camping sites so that they remain accessible to those who prefer undeveloped camping options. The Forest Service spends a considerable amount of money cleaning up after visitors, managing sites, and repairing damaged resources. They will probably start charging fees to access forest resources in the coming years. If you wish to donate time or money to improve our forest resources, please visit the BTNF offices or contact the Friends of the Bridger-Teton non-profit.
 

 
~ Showers ~



Inside the park, showers are available at the Climbers' Ranch, Colter Bay Village, and the Signal Mountain Lodge RV Park. They start around $6 or so. The Headwaters/Flagg Ranch has free showers for tent campers staying at the northern reaches of the GTNP/JDR Parkway. In the Town of Jackson, the Teton County recreation center has a pool, showers, climbing wall, etc. You could always take a cool (or freezing) summer dip in a river, creek, lake or pond.



~ Miscellaneous ~

  
Below are a few online resources of historical interest connected to the Tetons. Books cover much of our climbing history but some great mementos are down the rabbit hole, especially visual. New history is always being written on the web but it often disappears if left unattended.

 
 Bentley Boykin (offline)
Googler: Noah Howell or Website
(^Sadly, website in poor shape)
George Gardner Scholarship Fund
George Bell
Alpinist Teton Women
Taylor Glenn


Miscellaneous Links



Bridger-Teton Avalanche Forecast
BTAC App
Avalanche Weather Guidance
NWS AVI & Snow Guide
NWS Probabilistic Snow Ice
BTAC Snowfall Data 24 hrs

USDA Snow & Water Map
Grand Targhee Snowfall (stn)
JHMR Snowfall (stn)
Surprise Meadow Snowfall (stn)
 
JHMR Weather & Snow Report
JHMR Grooming Map
Snow King Snow Report
Targhee Snow Report
JH Nordic Conditions
JH P&R XC Grooming Report
WYDOT Road Conditions

Turiano's Skiing Guides
Exum Mountain Guides
JH Mountain Guides
Teton Backcountry Guides

Mountain Riding Lab
World Championship Hill Climb
Snowmobile Maps - Trails

BTNF Winter Travel Maps
Winter  Maps Trails & XC Ski
Winter Wildlife Closures
Friends of BTNF Winter Links

American Avalanche Institute
JH Outdoor Leadership Inst
Teton Backcountry Alliance
(Teton Pass Free Shuttle)
WBM - Medical Training
BackcountryZero

Avalanche.org
Avi Paths on Teton Pass
WY State Trails Avi Paths
Cache and Granite Avi Paths

Idaho Alpine Club  Climbing Idaho
Teton Climbers’ Coalition
Central Wyoming Climbers’ Alliance
Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition
Tensleep Climbing
Cody's Wyoming Ice Festival
Lander's Intl Climbers' Festival
Southeast Wyoming Climbers Coalition


Teton Pass Webcams
Teton Pass Temps
Climbers' Ranch Webcam

JH Paragliding
Teton Handgliding
JH Free Flight Club
JH Kayak Club
JH Polo Club
JH RugbyJedediah Smith Wilderness
 



~ Water Resources ~
 

 



Water temps at Jenny Lake might be available by calling the Jenny Lake Boating team. They have a water thermometer by the boat dock (webcam). Summer only. Climbers engaged in The Picnic (AKA the Grand Teton Triathlon) like to track water temps for their swim across Jenny Lake. A few climbers like to take a refreshing dip after their climb. A dirt road splits off of the Lupine Meadows Road immediately after passing the bridge over Cottonwood Creek. It goes north to the Jenny Lake Boat Launch area. You can take a quick dip to cool off or clean up but it's not for swimming. FYI: The above graphic has been using Pacific Time, not Mountain Time for the "latest" temp reading. Time.gov


Upper Snake River Basin
If Jackson Lake is really low, the western banks of the lake can be used to access some of the trailless bushwhacking areas north of Mt Moran. Bring bear spray and a mountain man sensibility.


~River Webcams~
 


 


 

Enjoy Safe Climbing

 

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