WYOMING WHISKEY: Grand Teton Climbing Conditions July 24, 2016

The Grand Teton

View toward Lupine Meadows. This was from an afternoon trip up Teewinot last week.

The parking lot which overflows to the north on most days.

Lupine Meadows is just south of Jenny Lake.

We haven't stopped by the Jenny Lake visitor services area this year but there used to be a water faucet available 24/7 outside of the Jenny Lake Store. The area is under reconstruction this summer but some services are still available.

Lupine Meadows Trailhead. There is a 'restroom' near the trailhead.

Camping in Garnet Canyon

A fee is required for a camping permit.
Those bound for Garnet Canyon during the summer must go
to the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to get their camping permits.

Inside Garnet Canyon on the climbers' trail.

Platforms Camping Zone above Garnet Creek and by the First Boulder Field.

It's 4.1 miles from the trailhead to here. First BF refers to the first location where the trail disappears for more than a few feet. At this location, the trail restarts by the creek - further to the SW. There is a 2nd Boulder Field where the trail does the same thing by the Morainal Camping Zone. At the 2nd BF, the trail restarts by a steel sign to your south.

The Meadows of Garnet Canyon below the Middle Teton.

Spalding Falls is in the mid-right side of the photo. The summer climbers' trail stays to the north of Garnet Creek.

Switchbacks above the Petzoldt Caves Camping Zone & Spalding Falls

Above here is the Morainal Camping Zone, the Lower Saddle, & Middle Teton Glacier. We didn't snap a photo. See picture here from another trip report.

Fixed Rope at the Lower Saddle's headwall

There is water at the Lower Saddle for most of the summer.

Water can be found at the Middle Teton Glacier and at several springs and drainage areas.

Lower Saddle Camping Zone - most eastern site

Exum Mountain Guides hut & GTNP Ranger hut.

Dartmouth Basin in background. Climbers just above the Lower Saddle

South Aspect of the Grand Teton

Area between the Lower & Upper Saddles

There are many many variations to reach the Central Rib's Bench & the Upper Saddle.
We were headed for the bench and then crossing over the Central Rib to gain the Exum Ridge.

We used the Runner's Slab to get into the CC.

We came down the purple line via the Black Rock Chimney and headed for the EOTN.
We took the Central Rib's Lower Crossover to reach Wall Street and the Exum Ridge.

After going through the Eye of the Needle and under the BRA (upper ledge),
we headed for the Central Rib's Lower Crossover to Wall Street.

The climbers shown above are coming off of the Upper Western Rib and down the Central Rib's Bench toward the Eye of the Needle. Scramble anywhere you want if you're heading for (or coming off) the Owen-Spalding Route.

View from the Central Rib's Lower Crossover toward Wall Street (big slab).

Wall Street Couloir, WS Gully, Wall Street

Looking back at the Lower Crossover

Lower & Upper Crossovers - looking back from the gully leading to Wall Street

Wall Street

Upper end of Wall Street

As you're coming off the Lower Ledge at Wall Street's Step Across and turning the corner, you will find that the footholds & handholds are modest. Take your time and you'll do fine.

Upper Ledge - poor handholds & awkward footholds.

Another view as you round the corner off the Lower Ledge.

If the wind is blowing, we always take the Lower Ledge.
The Upper Ledge has no bomber hand holds above the gap by your feet....see next

See the gap along the Upper Ledge. Some climbers will pull up on the gap as they round the corner.
We prefer to stand upright and let our feet guide us if the wind isn't blowing.

Golden Stair - just a few feet past the Step Across.

GS. You can also climb some cracks around the corner to the NE.

A little boulder problem (YELLOW) just above the Golden Stair.
If you take the outside PURPLE line, you will have some wonderful memories.

...a little further past that above boulder problem you will scramble up and over this rock feature.
You will then scramble down to the entrance to the Wind Tunnel.

Access to the Wind Tunnel

Entrance to the Wind Tunnel

Looking back at some options to reach the WT entrance. The exposed PURPLE line is fun.

Wind Tunnel's boulder problems.

Climb along any line. Most climbers stay to the right.

Overview of variations around the Friction Pitch - click to enlarge

Looking at some of your options once out of the Wind Tunnel.

Take the Jern to the Friction Pitch if you want to stay on the standard 'traditional' UXM line.

Optional Carmen's Pinnacle for climbing on the western side of the Wind Tunnel.

Looking up at the Puff-n-Grunt dihedral. The Climber is at the base of the Friction Pitch (left of PNG)

Jern Dihedral

Jern

After climbing the Jern we went over to the west to look at conditions in the Western Chimney.

Just above the knobs on the crux of the Friction Pitch.

Above the crux and on the Friction Pitch.

The Notch Gully above the FP. You can climb along the ridgeline or scramble up the gully.

View from the top of the Notch Gully.

Zoomed view from the top of the Notch Gully and looking up at the V-Pitch. At the top of the gully, turn east to regain the ridge.

Approach to the V-Pitch. Mostly easy climbing.

We did not climb the V-Pitch which is to the left of the crack.

We actually took a frictiony line to the east of the crack to avoid the snow in the lower section of the crack and then we scrambled over to the top of the V-Pitch to take a few photos.

V-Pitch on right. We are on its eastern crest.

Lower in the photo are climbers who just got out of the Notch Gully. Climber with green helmet is about to move west into the V-Pitch.

Lower Saddle

View back toward the Lower Saddle & Dartmouth Basin

Above the VP and heading for the WLC (or left-leaning crack)

Climber on the WLC

Climber on the WLC - viewed from the optional rap at the southern end of the summit ridgeline.

Climbers on the WLC

Boulder Problem in the Sky's southern crack.

Summit of the Grand Teton as seen from the top of the Horse.

East Ridge with snow.

Teewinot at right. Jackson Lake at top.

Middle Teton (left side) just to the left of the Horse (right side of photo)

Looking down Cascade Canyon - right side of image.

There is a plane in the center of the photo

Table Mountain

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Overview of the downclimb on the Owen-Spalding Route

Owen-Spalding Climbing Route (5.4)

Overview of the Owen-Spalding Climbing Route

Climbers taking the Owen-Spalding route back to the Main Rappel.

Climbers by the two small 'gun-sights' above the Slabby Wall.

Climbers on the small ledge above the Slabby Wall.

The center crack points to the summit and back toward the Sargent's Chimney area.

Hidden Exit - downclimb. Brody Leven out for stroll.

Sargent's Chimney

We took two laps to reach the Double Chimney - Catwalk & Owen Chimney. The Catwalk downclimb is followed by the Owen Chimney downclimb....

You head for the Main Rap to get to the Catwalk...

..... you scramble down from the Main Rap Overlook to reach the Catwalk...

Catwalk -- looking southish.

Exiting the Catwalk and climbing into the bottom 20 feet of the Owen Chimney ...

... or you could take the variation directly between the Catwalk & the Double Chimney
It's more common to go up this way than down this way.

Entering the Double Chimney

Entering the DC's Open-'V'

The Owen Chimney downclimb to the Double Chimney...

Looking down the Owen Chimney

Looking back toward Sargent's Chimney from the Owen

Owen Chimney

Looking back up the OC

Middle of the Double Chimney - tunnel & Open-'V'

DC 2nd Entrance

Looking southish toward the Upper Saddle

DC 1st Entrance - pull-up move.

Crawl

Looking northish

Looking back at the access to the DC

Ledge between Crawl & Belly Roll.

Belly Roll & Upper Saddle

NE corner of the Upper Saddle

2nd setup of the alternate 2x70' rap is in the left corner
and south of the main rappel.

Main Rap

Access to the Central Rib's Black Rock Chimney

Who knows what they were planning on doing.... sitting on a rock by Wall Street in the late afternoon.

Access to the Central Rib's Black Rock Chimney

Looking back from the access to the BRC

The Central Rib's BRC

The Central Rib's BRC - exit off the steppy ramp running toward the west.

Lower access to the BRC is by the smooth slab

Lower access to the BRC is by the smooth slab.

If you want to take the Upper Western Rib instead of the BRC, head west by the main drainage.

Scramble to the Briggs' Slab or the EOTN, etc

There are many variations around here so choose whatever fits your needs. The BRA is the 'Belly-Roll Almost'

Briggs' Slab - looking W-SW

Briggs' Slab - looking SW

Briggs' Slab - looking NW

EOTN - Eye of the Needle

Our exit ..again many variations around the Chockstone Chimney

Chockstone Chimney

Chockstone Chimney is at the far right.

Western side of the Needle on left. Lower Saddle below.

Needle (center) & Black Dike

2nd Boulder Field

This is the 2nd Boulder Field at the start of the Morainal Camping Zone. The trail disappears for a short distance. As you approach the 2nd BF (while on your way to the Lower Saddle), look for a sign by the drainage to your south (by photographer in this photo). The trail starts up again by the sign.