WYOMING WHISKEY: Grand Teton's Owen-Spalding Route October 20, 2018

Garnet Creek

This is between the Meadows' Camping Zone in Garnet Canyon and the Platforms Camping Zone.

Looking back toward the Meadows' Camping Zone

Looking toward the South Fork of Garnet Canyon

Moraines

Looking at the Morainal Camping Zone and toward the Lower Saddle. The Middle Teton Glacier is on the left. The slightly elevated rib has the summer trail to the Lower Saddle.

Looking back down the trail in the Moraines

For much of the way, we follow a rib that runs the length of the Morainal Camping Zone to reach the Lower Saddle. We stay near the top of the rib as much as possible on a well used trail. There are several side trails. Some go to camping spots, some are just duplicate trails.

The Fixed Rope area

Just above the Fixed Rope - we took shortcut

Looking up toward the Grand Teton - southern aspect

Looking over Dartmouth Basin toward Idaho

The Black Dike, Needle, Exum Ridge, SW Enclosure Ridge, etc

Overview

We climbed the rock between the Mini Black Dike and the Chockstone Chimney (climbed closer to the Mini Black Dike).

Overview

We took the Briggs' Slab to reach the Central Rib's Bench, and we went up the Central Rib's Black Rock Chimney to reach the Upper Saddle.

60°F according to our thermo - just out of backpack

It was t-shirt & shorts weather at all elevations all day - except at Lupine Meadows.

This temp chart ends on the 18th. The temps on the 20th were some of October's best.

Chockstone Chimney on right. It's the only chimney.

Again, we went past the CC and up the couloir (main drainage) a short distance and then we climbed the steppy rock just to the south of the Mini Black Dike by 20 feet or so.

Overview

The Mini Black Dike is just to the left of the climbers in the above photo

Looking down at the main drainage between the Chockstone Chimney & the Mini Black Dike

The main drainage is often called the Owen-Spalding Couloir. The line up the east side of the couloir (not shown here) is not usually climbed because it's a rockfall terrain trap if climbers are above you. That drainage runs below the Upper Western Rib's eastern aspect. It is sometimes call the Sack-o'-Potatoes Chimney because it starts near the Sack-o'-Potatoes variation to access the Central Rib's Bench.

Main Drainage as seen from near the Briggs' Slab.

The bottom of the Upper Western Rib is at the top-center of the photo. The 'headwall' of the Central Rib's bench is on the right side of the image. The 'Sack-o'-Potatoes Chimney' runs between the bench and the Upper Western Rib. The drainage clearly shown on the left side of the Upper Western Rib takes you to the Dartmouth Couloir.

Cracks of Doom - Briggs' Slab is just to the south.

Approach to Briggs' Slab. We climbed the dry rock (mostly unseen at center) and avoided the snow.

Briggs' Slab front left. Eye of the Needle at right. Chockstone Chimney between both.

Looking into Chockstone Chimney

Looking toward the Lower Crossover to Wall Street (UXM Route)

The drainage to the right runs right into the Chockstone Chimney - it's an extension of it.

Access to the Black Rock Chimney is by the smooth slab on the Central Rib.

If you headed west from here, you would run into the Upper Western Rib. It's another variation.

Looking down from the Central Rib

Black Rock Chimney

View from the Central Rib to the Upper Western Rib - center right

We did not take the Upper Western Rib. You reach the UWR from the Central Rib's bench at this location which is directly west of the access point to the Black Rock Chimney — i.e. west of the smooth slab of rock on the Central Rib's western aspect.

Black Rock Chimney as seen from a ridgeline at it's upper exit / entrance

We are just above a snow bowl to the left. Most climbers simply cross the bowl and don't climb the ridge.

Another look back down the BRC which is on the left side of the photo and just below ridgeline.

Looking into Dartmouth Basin - Lower Saddle far left

Upper exit / entrance to Black Rock Chimney

Central Rib far right - OS Couloir left side

Looking back toward the bowl just above the Black Rock Chimney

ditto

OS Couloir on far right. Bowl above Black Rock Chimney on left.

OS Couloir on right

Temperature in shade near 13,000'

Looking back toward the Middle Teton - top right. Wall Street - center left.

The Enclosure at center

Upper Saddle - northern access to upper eastern side

You climb or descend the crack on the left side of the image. You can also try the rock on the center-right but it is not a common line. It's a good options if the snow is unstable near the exposed northern and southern variations.

Upper Saddle - northern access variation to reach the upper eastern side of the saddle

Looking back at the lower western side of the Upper Saddle

Upper Saddle - southern access to upper eastern side of Upper Saddle.

This is the most common route.

Looking down Exum Gully

Looking toward the NE and the Belly Roll from just below the Main Rappel

Looking toward the Belly Roll

Main Rappel area

Overview - Click to enlarge

Belly Roll approach

Looking back toward the Upper Saddle

The Crawl - right side, Double Chimney access on left side

Snow piles at the northern end of the Crawl are often unstable. Be sure of your footing before stepping on the snow if you're without a rope.

Inside Double Chimney - Tunnel and Open-V

Open-'V'

Dry enough just below the Open-V for a safe descent and easy ascent.

Sometimes this area needs to be cleaned up if you're free-soloing so that the descent is as safe as possible. Sticky snow is OK. Icy snow or slick snow is a big hazard because the hand holds are tricky upon the descent out of the Open-V. This is sloping rock that can easily flush you right out of the chimney if you slip. Sometimes it's easier to exit via the tunnel variation, sometimes not.

Looking down at the access to the Double Chimney - between 1st and 2nd entrance

Looking down the 1st Entrance of DC

We went up the 1st Entrance during the ascent. We took the 2nd Entrance to exit the chimney during the descent. Again, snow in this area can be unstable at any time of year.

Looking down 2nd Entrance of DC

Tunnel variation below the Open-V

Cascade Canyon

Valhalla Canyon as seen from inside the Double Chimney

Slabby area between DC and the Owen Chimney

Looking down at the Double Chimney - Open-V at top, Tunnel Variation below camera, Northern Slot above tunnel variation.

Exit from the Tunnel Variation - DC

Slabby area just above DC - looking back

On the far right side of the image is the DC Bypass area which is harder than the DC but a fun short variation. You go past the DC and toward the Great West Chimney to gain the DC bypass.

Slabby area just above DC - looking back

Owen Chimney at left

View southish toward the lower access to the Catwalk
(1 of 2 common variations to reach Catwalk)

Looking down at the entrance to the Owen Chimney from the first 'opening' in chimney

You can access the Catwalk from here and we did. This is the upper access to the Catwalk. On the descent, we went down the Owen Chimney (pictures near bottom of this post). To gain the Catwalk, you will go around a tight corner to the south after you gain this opening. This is a small shelf/ledge. You'll find good holds when dry. You can also gain the OC Bypass from here or the Catwalk.

Looking back at the exit from the Double Chimney

Access to Catwalk -looking southwestish

Catwalk - looking southish

Catwalk - looking northish

Main Rappel Overlook

This is a squarish block of rock that stands out like a sore thumb when you are near it. It sort of hangs above the Upper Saddle like a diving board.

View toward Sargent's Chimney from the Main Rappel Overlook

View back down toward the Upper Saddle

ditto

Main Rappel setup station

ditto

Looking down start of rappel

Main Rappel Station - Sling & Bolt

Shelf at bottom of Sargent's Chimney - looking north

Looking back at the Main Rappel Overlook (center-right) from the shelf.

You can access the Catwalk from a point just northeast of the overlook. The main rap is behind the rocks in the center of the photo. You dip down into a small drainage to access it.

Looking over at the Enclosure

View back toward the shelf at the bottom of Sargent's from inside Sargent's Chimney

The shelf/ledge system runs between the Exum Ridge and the Great West Chimney. The top of the Owen Chimney lands you on the shelf just below Sargent's Chimney. It's near the top-right side of the photo.

View from inside Sargent's

The Main Rappel Overlook is the squarish block in the sunshine near top left.

Hidden Exit starts at the corner crack on left.

The Hidden Exit is on Sargent's northern side near the middle section of Sargent's. There is an obvious opening - the only one.

Looking down at the approach to the Hidden Exit's corner crack (right side - slightly hidden)

Top of Hidden Exit - the chute

The short ledge between Sargent's main chimney and the top of the Hidden Exit. Looking south.

The HE's 'chute' is right below the photographer.

Sargent's main chimney - see rap slings just below top of chimney

Another view.

It's usually easier for most climbers to go up & down the southern side of the upper main chimney. Everyone has different abilities, of course. Most climbers use the Hidden Exit and avoid this section of Sargent's.

Three Stooges top center - stay left

Switchback area by the Slabby Wall (unseen) and just below the Horse

Looking back toward the Sargent's area - follow easiest line of descent/ascent

Looking down from atop the Slabby Wall

Small ledge atop Slabby Wall - path to summit - looking northish

Looking back along small ledge atop Slabby Wall - part of switchback to bypass Slabby Wall

Looking southish.

Last scramble to summit - looking NE

We are below the false summit called the Horse which is just south of the true summit

DESCENT into the Owen Chimney

Owen Chimney near crux

We did not use crampons or any climbing gear during our climb. We did take hiking poles for the approach to help find foot traps in the snow, and help us ascend the mountain, especially the snow field above the Fixed Rope where drifts were 2 feet in spots. We know the mountain very well so it's easier for us to avoid foot traps but we hit a few every now and then.